[SOLVED] The effectiveness of Noctua IPPC 3000s

[Phaaze88]

This is a statement more than an actual question. I figured I'd post this, and others might find it useful.
Curiosity had gotten the better of me, and I wanted to see how much cooler a pc could potentially run if all the case and cpu cooler fans were replaced with IPPC 3000 pwms. I know there are plenty others curious about these monsters!
Tested in a Cooler Master H500P Mesh. My normal setup:
Intake(front): 3x NF-A14s
Intake(top): 2x NF-A14s@50%, as full speed screws with the air flow, leading to cpu running like 1-2C warmer.
^ I tried a few different fan setups, and found I got better cpu temps -VERY SLIGHT, but cooler nonetheless - over the traditional one that instead has rear and top-rear exhaust.
Exhaust(rear): 1x NF-A14
Cpu cooler: NH-D15s dual fan mode with both high speed NF-A15s
7820x(8c/16t)@ 4.3ghz, 1080ti, Corsair Vengeance LPX ram, and a 750w Seasonic Prime Titanium

For the IPPC setup, all the A14s were replaced by the 3000 version, and the A15s by the 120mm NF-F12 3000. Posting the temps of each core, I end up with:
Normal: 73, 78, 76, 84, 74, 78, 83, 74
IPPC 3000: 69, 75, 72, 80 71 74, 78 70
Gpu stayed around 55C in both cases.
Tested with Asus Realbench for 30mins. Ambient temps at 24C. I didn't win the SL with my chip. Cores 4 and 7 make it impossible to hit 4.5ghz all core on air cooling. I CAN do 4.4 though.

Also taking into account the noise levels(max speed) of the fans individually, the A14 and HS A15s are 24.6 dB/A, the A14 3000 at 41.3, and F12 at 43.5; a whole set is going to be a little louder.
With every +10 levels dB/A being ~2x louder than the previous, the 3000 IPPCs are about 4x louder(max speed, again) than their mainstream versions.


TL;DR: In my particular case(results may vary between cases), with those IPPC 3000s, my cpu ran ~4C cooler - on avg, and between the hottest core - at the cost of the case being 4x as loud
Whether that's worth it depends on the individual, but there is ONE caveat - ok, two actually: they will only get to be that loud when stress testing OCs, which users are usually(?) not around for, and if one just sets the fan curve to not go over 50-60%(about as quiet as the regulars' maximum at this level), but that defeats the purpose of getting them in the first place.

 

[rubix_1011]

mITX is difficult to get full watercooling, but it is quite do-able with some planning and preparation...I did it with my older build: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...full-watercooling-build-corsair-250d.1885955/

Monoblock isn't a requirement, but if you do plan to overclock the CPU, it would be helpful, otherwise, just a normal waterblock would suffice. The monoblock would add to your budget and would almost be better to do a custom build at that point unless you sell off the CPU block from the kit (or use it for a different build).

Looks like that PCB is custom according to the Heatkiller GPU spec sheet: http://gpu.watercool.de/WATERCOOL_HEATKILLER_GPU_Compatibility.pdf

 

[Phaaze88]

Would there be any issue with mixing some brands? Ekwb doesn't have a full block for my particular card, but Alphacool does: https://www.alphacool.com/shop/gpu-...orce-gtx-1080ti-pro-m19-incl.-backplate-black
It's made using copper, just like this Ek kit: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360 (I'm purchasing the parts individually, but using the kit components as a guide - saves some money, since I already have fans and splitters aren't recommended for use with them)
They also use the same fittings, the G1/4s.

Is there such as thing as using too much space? Or a recommendation on how much space should be left between the mobo and rad? Ex: the case has 50mm of rad clearance, but you put a 45mm rad in there. It wouldn't choke anything, would it?

 

[rubix_1011]

No issues with using different brands, in fact, most custom loops usually have multiple different brands' components in them. The only thing to be aware of is whether any of them contain aluminum. Nickel, copper, brass, silver, gold, etc are all good to run in harmony. Alphacool makes good stuff, so does Swiftech and even some others (Heatkiller is mentioned above - another good one, although I haven't used them personally).

Too much radiator space? Yes and no - there is a point of diminishing return; if you have 8 radiators, it is likely that beyond 2-3 of them likely aren't working to much benefit your temps. Radiators are relatively low restriction parts, but restriction is restriction and dropping flow rate does impact your coolant delta.

Setting up parallel flow between different components can also help flow rates, especially if you run dual GPU cards with waterblocks that are rather restrictive.

 

[Phaaze88]

Phew! I finally got a parts list assembled:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fb-asus-prime-x299-rgb-monoblock-nickel.html $149.99
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-coolstream-pe-360-triple.html $87.99
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-acf-fitting-10-13mm-3-8-x-1-2-nickel-6-pack.html $33.99
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-cryofuel-solid-scarlet-red-conc-250ml.html $14.99
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-filling-bottle-1000ml.html $7.99 (probably don't need it, but I'd feel more comfortable with it nearby)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-atx-bridging-plug-24-pin.html $2.50

https://www.aquatuning.us/water-coo...x-1080ti-pro-m19-incl.-backplate-black?c=6470 $110.08
This thing took me the most time to find. It isn't widely available in the US, and the number of available full blocks for my card is very limited. A bit of a nag that I wasn't able to gather everything in one store.
Total = $407.53, but if anyone believes I forgot anything, feel free.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Total = $407.53, but if anyone believes I forgot anything, feel free.

CPU, motherboard, graphics card. Heh.

 

[Phaaze88]

CPU, motherboard, graphics card. Heh.

Oh, of course! How silly of me! Well, adding those 3 gets me a grand total of $9001. Nice.

 

[Phaaze88]

Well, I guess I'm all set then! I'll place those orders later this afternoon.
I wish I could best answer all of you for the help so far - many thanks for the help!
It's funny. I started this thread to brag about some fans, and it turned into me dipping my hands into watercooling. I'll still be using those fans, cause they're that good!
Should I successfully manage to get it all set up, I'll post it in the members systems section. Don't expect anything flashy, because I'm not a fan of all the LED bling(how do some people put up with those crazy lightshows? It's an eyesore to me.).

 

[Darkbreeze]

It's funny. I started this thread to brag about some fans, and it turned into me dipping my hands into watercooling.

That's the point of this place. Well, for those of us for whom this is a passion, rather than just a place we come to solve a problem and then never come back until the next one. It usually works out that way, if you are somebody who places ever higher performance as a priority OR as a NEED. Also, some of us just have a desire to have a hobby that is positive, productive and based around a community that is active enough to support the hobby. It's fun, for some of us. Others, just do only what they have to, to get their easy fix.

 

[Karadjgne]

DB, you gonna turn? Fall to the wet side? Or do you figure that skylake is a little old to be investing that kind of cash? On the other side, wouldn't take much to drop a 10th gen Intel in there with the loop... Maybe one day actually get a decent gpu?

 

[Darkbreeze]

If I do a loop, it will be with a different case. I have............ideas, about that, but nothing I want to worry about right now and I already know that my current CPU won't do better than 4.7Ghz anyhow whether it is on air or water so no point really. Thermal ceiling isn't the problem with my chip. Board isn't the problem either really. It's just not the best binned chip in the bag. Next time I upgrade the platform, which will likely be a flip back to AMD, maybe, depends on what Intel actually pulls out of they backside next, I might think about it. I might even buy a binned chip and have it delidded as well or do it myself. That's not happening anytime soon though.

First will be a better graphics card and I need to get off my rear and sleeve my cables. I did just add two little somewhat gimmicky accessories though, that cleaned up the inside a little bit more than it was. I actually think they are ok products, for what they do.

The CM 90 degree adapter for the ATX connector and the EVGA 90 degree adapter for the PCI cables. Yes, the EVGA Powerlink worked fine, once I got a second 6 pin adapter for the Powerlink, with my non-EVGA AMD card. LOL.

 

[Phaaze88]

...
If you are expecting to do any heavy CPU overclocking, you will want to account for additional radiators to help normalize your temps. While a 360 rad will be able to handle a CPU and GPU, once you start upping voltages and clock rates, components get hotter much faster. If you can find a monoblock for your motherboard, this can also help cool the motherboard PWM and power delivery which can help stabilize overclocks as well. Not to keep referencing the same build, but I would likely never been able to reach the speeds on the 2990WX had it not been for the full monoblock I used for the testing.

About these monoblocks... They don't outperform standalone cpu blocks, but they are overall better for high core count/high power draw cpus(such as mine). I find it silly that monoblocks have/are being made for mainstream boards when the vrm heatsinks on those boards are already pretty sufficient.

But the matter at hand - in that Threadripper 2990WX review, was that cpu delidded? It would appear that there are issues with improper contact for users who have delidded their cpus(I did through SL) and that lack of mounting pressure is leading to significantly higher temps and forcing those users to go back to a separate cpu and vrm block. I've only seen these complaints for EK monoblocks though. There are only 2 available monos for my motherboard, an EK and a Bitspower. I've sent an e-mail to BP support inquiring about whether their blocks suffer from this issue - no telling if I'll hear back or not.

Would you happen to have any further insight on this problem?
If a monoblock doesn't work out, I'll just go with a Heatkiller IV, and see how my vrms hold up on air before trying to install a vrm block.

 

[Karadjgne]

I find it silly that monoblocks have/are being made for mainstream boards when the vrm heatsinks on those boards are already pretty sufficient.

Define sufficient. Heatsinks on VRM's don't do all that much, mainly surface heat and radiant heat dissipation. The majority of heat produced by the VRM's is dissipated through the motherboard ground plane, so in some cases, oversized heatsinks are a good looking detriment. Welcome to 'bamboozle the buyer' 101. Not much different than all the emphasis put on the software 'OC Genie'

A monoblock attached to the VRM's is different. Instead of cpu exhaust air temps (or whatever breeze is possibly blown across them) being blown over a mediocre effective heatsink, you are putting coolant temp cooling across them, an easy 30°C ish colder. That's anywhere upto a 60°C ish difference between coolant and VRM temp, basically treating the VRM's like a regular block on a cpu. Much more effective.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Eh, IDK about that. I've personally seen boards, most of them in fact if they were boards that came with legitimate heatsinks on the VRMs, that would overheat the VRMs almost instantly if it was any kind of overclocked configuration if a 100% TDP load was applied, and wouldn't even break 60°C with the heatsinks in place. I think we'll have to agree to disagree on that subject.