Thermal Paste Comparison, Part Two: 39 Products Get Tested

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Great article though if I would say some additional information on longlivity and maybe a control benchmark on every system without thermal paste (where temperature would deem it acceptable) would also be nice.
 
I'd be really interested to know how well the paste included with Corsairs H100i cooler performs in comparison to these. I went ahead and used it since it was already applied to the cooler. Everything seems to work well, but my system is so well cooled that the temps inside the case only run a couple degrees above ambient. I was actually able to set my heatsink fans to their lowest speed (500rpm, almost silent) and get barely a 1 degree F rise in temp. on a 3750K at stock speeds. I've never bothered OCing, since my computer rarely works hard enough to get to max speed on anything I do.
 


Per Corsair, they say what they have works best compared to anything else they have tested and wont change it.

Its hard to say for sure.

Ryan, thanks for the input. I liked IC Diamond but due to the insane amount of pressure I moved on to Zalmans current stuff as it works way better than their older STG1 and so far has kept my CPU happy. I also have a 9900Max and Zalman is well known for their mirror like finish so I doubt anything else would make a massive difference since the heatsink is already polished beyond what the majority of companies do.
 
Would have been nice to see Arctic Silver Ceramique II in the list but I already know more or less how well it works. You should try mayonnaise. Another site discovered that it works as well as Noctua NT-H1 but didn't know how long it would be good for...lol
 


Yeah, I have no complaints about the current Corsair compound, whatever it may be. I'm curious about the amount/thickness they provide with the package, since it's already applied to the heatsink. Maybe it should be less for Intel processors since they're smaller than AMD... I dunno. I haven't attempted to remove it since installation since I haven't had a need. But, after reading this article, it sets my inquiring mind off onto plenty of directions.
 
Interesting review, but it would have been nice if Indigo Xtreme ETI's were included along with the other liquid metal solutions for comparison.
 

Corrosion is one possibility, another is "metal rot" or amalgamation where one contaminant metal (ex.: mercury) alloys itself with another (ex.: aluminum) over time. If you check Youtube, you can see a few time-lapse videos of mercury eating through aluminum and other metals... a few drops of mercury in the wrong place can do a surprising amount of damage this way.
 


I think that's true. Based on what I have seen in terms of images, I think it is actually metal amalgamation.
 
If the reviewer ever has time to revisit this subject, I would be interested in seeing an investigation into removing thermal adhesives by heating up the attached heatsink with a heat gun. I have used this method in the past to remove arctic silver thermal adhesive. (I have to admit, I first discovered this method by complete accident).
 


Good to know, thanks for your feedback.
 
I'm wondering what your curing methods were.

I found that despite MX4 stating no burn in was required, I used Prime64 to burn it in for several hours, then switched it off over night. The next morning the maximum temperatures had dropped by 10c on air.

Initially I was in the 80's, it dropped to 70c. Now I have a better case it doesn't go above 66c. That is with an i5 750@3800.
 
Would love to IC Diamond as well. However I would like to suggest some 'For Fun Only' pastes that you should give it a whirl.

- Mayonnaise
- Shaving Cream
- Cream Cheese
 
Disappointed in Arctic Silver 5 after having been told time and again, not that long ago, it's the best stuff out there. Also needs a long burn-in time from what I recall.
 


What I've always done for years and works fine for me is once I've seated the HSF on the CPU and clamped it, I then unclamp and gently lift the HSF off.

This gives me a nice thin coating on both surfaces. The paste on the HSF is then cleaned off and I replace the HSF on the CPU with just the layer left on the CPU.

Basically this reduces the amount of paste by around 50% (give or take) but means I have a pretty thin even layer across both surfaces filling in those tiny tiny gaps.

Works a treat.
 
I have 2 syringe of Shin Etsu, X23 I think, can't remeber but the top of their thermal compounds, it's not far from the stock Noctua NT 01 bundled in my D14 but it's quite easy to apply and clean and more than anything, you don't ruin IHS surface and don't lose cpu info and warranty. Aluminum oxide always wins by easy application, cleaning, safety, performance and price, it also doesn't ruin the warrancy. Silver based products could do more but I couldn't find in my retail store the Arctic silver based compound I found in the "80way thermal compounds chart". Performance alone doesn't tell the whole story. Also, the cpu have a different thermal compound inside which makes difficult to gain thermal consistency from what you cool and the effect of the cooling.
 
I'm still using the same tube of Arctic Silver 5 that I bought like 6~7 years ago. Built a few PCs, clean and reapplied on a few CPUs, still hasn't finished.
 
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