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edzieba

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Angled PCB is an interesting twist: it would necessitate routing PCIe 5.0 traces over a board-to-board connector, which is a novel headache to give yourself.
 

spongiemaster

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Those appliances however are typically already on a 20A breaker. Kitchens rarely are not on their on breaker that is unshared with anything else.

Which doesn't matter when everything else in the chain including the socket itself is 15A rated, which is the case typically in US residential applications.

Your "800W is nothing to a typical 15A breaker" is circumstantial. There could be anything on or shared on that breaker. For all I know my TV and AVR are on the same breaker.

You can easily overload any circuit if you plug enough high current devices into it. If you're trying to run a high end 11.4.4 home theater speaker system, with a 100 inch TV and a high end gaming PC off a single circuit, you should hire someone who knows what they are doing to set up your system, because you shouldn't be. Any single PC will not come close to 1500W including a TV (a 65" LED TV uses less than 100W) as monitor and an 800W GPU.

Also fun fact and I didn't learn this until later on my quest, (15A) breakers are only rated for 80% constant load, so that's 12A in this case.

Not a fun fact. An incorrect fact. US electrical code states that any standard plug should not have a single load plugged into it that exceeds 80% of the total circuit capacity, assuming the socket is rated for the same amperage as the circuit. There is no issue with using 100% or more of the circuit, up to the point it trips, with multiple devices plugged into it.
 

SyCoREAPER

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Which doesn't matter when everything else in the chain including the socket itself is 15A rated, which is the case typically in US residential applications.**


Not a fun fact. An incorrect fact. US electrical code states that any standard plug should not have a single load plugged into it that exceeds 80% of the total circuit capacity, assuming the socket is rated for the same amperage as the circuit. There is no issue with using 100% or more of the circuit, up to the point it trips, with multiple devices plugged into it.***

** Fair point, however one could just install a 20A socket. However 5-20 socket is backwards compatible with 5-15 plugs.

*** We both skewed that fact. According to multiple sites, it can handle 100%. NEC dictates 80%.
 

Eximo

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Your "800W is nothing to a typical 15A breaker" is circumstantial. There could be anything on or shared on that breaker. For all I know my TV and AVR are on the same breaker. Also fun fact and I didn't learn this until later on my quest, (15A) breakers are only rated for 80% constant load, so that's 12A in this case.

1500W is the 80% (12amps), which is why you will see that listed on all high power household items.

Very rare to have 15 amp circuits for anything but lighting. Household outlets are generally connected to 20 amp breakers, and there might be 4 or 5 outlets in a room (or two) on the same breaker. Easy to overload with two hairdyers or two space heaters. Two high end gaming PCs could definitely do it.

Kitchens will tend to have several breakers. Usually is one dedicated for a Microwave, a whole countertop will generally have a single 20amp for all the outlets. Fridge is generally on its own as well. Electric ovens/ranges will of course get their own 220V circuit.

You do have to worry about old retrofits and cheap additions though. An apartment I had ages ago had two whole apartments share a single fuse (yeah, pre-breaker) And they had added a kitchen by closing in the porch. So two bathrooms, two bedrooms (with window AC units), and two kitchens on a single circuit with pre-1950s wiring, what could go wrong! Was cheap though.