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If MNPCtech took a form fitting front and milled it, so it still looked like the Evolv front, that wouldn't look bad at all I think, it's just the pure flat front that makes it look like someone with a router got lazy in the garage.
 


^^ Agreed. Though there are several mods out there, some look really really good and go with the shape of the evolv...

SR-71 Blackbird, I also forgot to mention that the Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Edition you see in my system is from one of your parts lists. The parts list you did that included an X99 Extreme3 and an i7-6800K for the giveaway Tom's was doing. :)
 
To be fair, I did like the look of the acrylic prototype, that would really standout with that purple dream machine dude has, just make it form fitting and use color matched top/bottom panels so hiding the mounts/screws. That would be worth the $70 price tag.
 
Just built mine.
Thermaltake Core P3SE case, Ryzen 5 1600X/Wraith Spire cooloer, Asus Strix B350-F MB, GSKILL TridentZ RGB 3000mHz 2X8GB, 1X Evo 960 250GB, 2X Evo 950 500GB, 1X Corsair 128GB, 1X Gigabyte R9 390X GPU, Strix Soar sound card, Cooler Master V1000 PSU.
eg4fvs.jpg

k9gged.jpg
 
Thanks, only issue I have ow with the open case concept is less moving air from fans. My GPU is idling about 10*C higher than when I had it in a normal mid tower.
 
Nope. While it's true that hot air that has already radiated can be pushed out by cooler air moving in naturally more easily since there is nothing to trap it, closed systems that channel all the available ambient airflow over and around components will aid in removing radiated heat much better as the pressure and movement are not mitigated by the enclosure being open which allows much of the airflow to go places OTHER than where you want it to. Chiefly, over and around components instead of just out the top of the case or with no case, just wherever there is no resistance to it going.

Consider, a room fan blowing through a 24" piece of pipe from 5' away will have far greater force and cool your face much more effectively on a hot day than one that is five feet away and is just randomly blowing in all directions with only a portion of it actually making it's way to where you are on the couch, again 5' away. At a smaller scale it's not much different with an closed, somewhat pressure differential configured enclosure.

For CPU and GPU coolers, which have their own fans to remove radiated or conducted heat away from the heatsink, this is not as big a factor however for motherboards, drives and the areas of CPU heatsinks and GPU components that are not directly cooled by it's heatsink, that air moving through the case that flows directly over those areas tends to offer additional cooling that you would not see on an open air case.

I've seen test results going both ways, but in my own investigations I have always seen lower overall temps with a closed case that has very good cooling than when I open the unit up and turn it on it's side so that nothing is trapped inside. I'm convinced that direct airflow provided by good air movement is more effective than a passively open case where most of the fan pressure simply escapes and does not go where you would prefer that it went, mainly, over those areas I described plus the memory modules and any other hardware that may be in the case like controllers or lighting (Even though heat is very minimal these days from lighting since most are LED).

If open case passively radiated configurations worked better, we would not use fans at all. And if the case is open, the case fans have very little impact on cooling anything except those that are directly mounted to something you are trying to cool.

Now on cases with poor case cooling, open would definitely be better. No question.
 
Thanks for the info, it's what I imagined. Now I have to figure out how to make it work. Temps aren't getting too high at all, in fact I had 2 140MM fans before blowing on my GPU in a case that had other fans in it as well, but in gaming I am seeing lower overall temps with the open case. It's just idle that it is higher.
 
Idle temps are relatively unimportant. Maximum temperatures are the only thing that matters, at all. So long as the hardware is within it's tolerance specs, it doesn't matter whether it's by 2 degrees or twenty, so long as it doesn't exceed that. Idle temps are far less accurate across the board, doesn't matter if it's AMD, Intel, Nvidia, whoever, than the upper ranges anyhow. The only time idle temps matter is if they are clearly higher than averages for that component and the hardware is exceeding the thermal ceiling.

So if the idle temp is affecting the maximum temp, then it's a problem somewhere. If the maximum temp is within tolerance and remains there, doesn't really matter what the idle temp is.
 


 
I can help you figure out if there is a thermal issue affecting idle temps, but start a thread and PM me with the link if you wish to do so. That way we are not going on and on with off topic discussion in this thread, which is for member build posts.
 

Understand. Will do thank you.

 
The only time idle temps are relatively questionable is if they are somewhat higher than can be expected. But there's several factors that play into that. Ambient temps, if it's 40°C in the room, expect idle temps of @50-55°C, no matter what cooler is used. Airflow. Doesn't matter what cooler is used, if airflow is bad, case temps will be high, and become relative ambient temps, affecting as above. High vcore, often happens with set vcore voltages where ppl have manually dropped multiplier to default but not changed the voltages to match. Loose cooler, paste protection, bad aio pump, forgot to plug in the cpu fan to name more.

Some you can live with, some you must live with, all can be rectified if you need to, but unless idle temps are close to what max load temps should be, they really are not that important as a number, just as an indication of something not quite right.
 
Thank to aquielisunari, Lucky_SLS, and WildCard999 for your help. I used a combination of all of your recommendations for my build. Will post over on the other board.

On the vid card front, I found out that one of my old 660Tis was faulty and was causing crash. I have one 660 running right now but ordered a 1060 that is in the mail.




Video of everything in action The LED strips are currently tied to GPU temp to warn me on heat.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X52 Rev 2 73.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($130.95 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z370 AORUS Gaming 7 (rev. 1.0) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($218.90 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($216.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($154.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card ($384.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: Corsair - Crystal 570X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case ($179.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($105.97 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Corsair - LL120 RGB LED 43.2 CFM 120mm Fan ($32.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Corsair - LL120 RGB LED 43.2 CFM 120mm Fan ($32.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Corsair - LL120 RGB LED 43.2 CFM 120mm Fan ($32.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Corsair - LL120 RGB LED 43.2 CFM 120mm Fan ($32.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Corsair - LL120 RGB LED 43.2 CFM 120mm Fan ($32.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Corsair - LL120 RGB LED 43.2 CFM 120mm Fan ($32.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2140.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-14 20:22 EDT-0400

Also have the Corsair Commander Pro that I was not able to find in part picker. Important note - the Kraken x62 does not work with this case, the x52 is a must. PC Part Picker does not identify this issue.

Thanks again,
LEIP
 
^ very nice!

Just try to route the kraken cable below the ram and try to have the gpu and mobo cables routed to the the back of the case as possible, the or just see some cable management videos in YouTube for building a more cleaner build ;p
 


Thank you - will work on that when I get my new GPU. Think it will be much easier with the new GPU, based on where the PCIe power attaches to the GPU.
 


Nice setup but between what you spent on the Kraken cooler and those RGB fans you could have bought a custom water cooling loop that offers more then looks alone. Sad to see the lack of water-cooling builds anymore.
 
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