Unstable new build failing prime95 blend test

[caesparktom]

New Build is failing prime95 blend test. After 12 hours blend w/ 8 threads it crashes. It does not find any prime number errors and no bsod just shuts down and reboots to "windows did not shut down properly" screen.

fyi, I posted problem on my old new build thread here. Flong has been helping me troubleshoot but suggested I start a new thread. (Troubleshooting starts near end of page two.)

History/Steps taken so far:

Assembled new build (my first build) without major incident. Actually, I should mention that initially computer did failed to boot with a chassis intrusion error. I reset RTC RAM and didn't have any problems after that. So, I booted up. Installed win7 64 bit. Made no changes to bios and ran Prime95 blend test + Coretemp to monitor cpu temps. It crashed without errors after about 7 minutes--just shut down. I rebooted and confirmed that p95 results log was empty-no errors. Temperatures at full load during test were approx 53-57C.

Temperatures were a little higher than expected so I reseated cooler and re-ran blend test. This time if crashed after 5 minutes and temperatures were unchanged (53-57C).

I researched difference between blend, sml fft, and lrg fft tests here. Of interest was that fact that sml ffts test does not access memory as much as lrg ffts:

The "Small FFTs" test uses relatively small FFTs which can fit into the CPU cache. As a result, the small FFT test is the one which accesses your main memory the least but it still makes some memory accesses. Prime95 automatically creates a FFT size range which will fit into the L2 cache of your CPU.

The "In-place large FFTs" test uses relatively large FFTs which cannot fit into the CPU cache so this test accesses main memory a lot. It only accesses a relatively small amount of main memory because it runs the FFTs in-place so it accesses the same RAM over and over.

I realize that this is not best way to test memory but decided to run the sml fft test because both times a ran the blend test, the first test it ran and crashed on was incidentally a large prime. So I ran and it ran for an hour without errors or crashing. I stopped it and concluded that it was a memory problem.

I checked bios ram settings (timing, frequency and voltage) and found that they were off by a bit. So i set explicitly to manufacture specs. Re-ran blend test. This time it ran 13 hours, produced no errors, but did still crash... again no bsod just sudden crash. Here are some temp readings during first hour or so.

time | c1 | c2 | c3 | c4
5:00 | 48c | 51c | 55c | 52c
5:13 | 52c | 54c | 58c | 55c
6:50 | 53c | 53c | 57c | 55c
.
.
.
temps were pretty consistent for duration of test. Actually I turned A/C off for bit to see how temps reacted and core 1,2 and 3 went up to ~ 60c and core 3 to 64c. But, it IS pretty hot here in beijing without A/C. I should note that crash occurred in middle of night when A/C was off so temps were probable around 60-64c before crash. btw, should i be concerned that core3 is always about 4c hotter than other cores? btw, GPU temp also around 52C.

Anyways, Stock system w/no Overclock should have no trouble burning for 24+ hours right? Not sure what to do now. Seems my system is just not quite as stable as it should be and not cooling quite as well as i would like. What do you suggest? I would like overclock a bit, but if my stock system is already marginal in terms of stability i don't know that i have any room to push it.

Btw, this is a workstation build so stability is relatively important.

Specs:

MOBO: ASUS P8P67 WS REVOLUTION
CPU: i7 2600k
GPU: NVidia Quadro 4000
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL --- x2(16GB)
SSD: OCZ vertex 3 （120GB）
HDD: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB ---x2(2TB)
DVD: Sony Optiarc AD-7240S
LCD: Dell UltraSharp U2410
Case: Corsair 650D
PSU: Corsair HX750
COOLER: Corsair H60

Steps I am considering:

1. replace ram w/ same ram or different ram(perhaps try different freq/timing)
2. upgrade cooler to H80 or H100.
3. jump out the window and take my new build with me

thanks for any help

 

[Proximon]

Well, it's a feature. You can boot from USB storage, and there's nothing wrong with the ability to do that. You simply have to revise your boot order so that it's not first.

As I recall, doesn't the UEFI allow a limited number of boot devices? What if you defined all those as other devices, and then set the order? At that point the printer storage would be out of luck and wouldn't intrude again.

Yes, now that I think about it there is something like that. You are only allowed one device from each category in the BIOS.

 

[jaquith]

Clear CMOS:
[flash=425,349]http://www.youtube.com/v/rdHH9KrceR0[/flash]

Then set you Date, Time the Save & Exit - fingers crossed. Note: if the date or time is correct then repeat procedure.

Re-Install Windows 7:
Delete partitions as described, and note at 2:50 to choose the Format:
To save Writes after the OS is re-installed see the following, choose both options, schedule and restart - http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/Jaquith/Scan-Drives-Windows-7.jpg
I use a third party commercial cloning, partitioning and formatting application.
[flash=425,349]http://www.youtube.com/v/JyMWz5UEgoI[/flash]

Hope this helps.

 

[flong]

Well, it's a feature. You can boot from USB storage, and there's nothing wrong with the ability to do that. You simply have to revise your boot order so that it's not first.

As I recall, doesn't the UEFI allow a limited number of boot devices? What if you defined all those as other devices, and then set the order? At that point the printer storage would be out of luck and wouldn't intrude again.

Yes, now that I think about it there is something like that. You are only allowed one device from each category in the BIOS.

The BIOS allows three boot devices and you must choose the order. It automatically selects what those boot devices are. For example, I have two HDDs (a Samsung F3 and a Hitachi 1.5 TB HDD) and it only selects the Force 3 SSD, the Asus DVD drive and the printer USB port as possible boot devices. It does not select either of the HDDs.

You can "Disable" a boot device which is what I have done. I disabled the L-71 USB port of the printer and enabled the Asus DVD drive as the second boot device. The first boot device is of course my Force 3 GT SSD.

There is also a second category in the BIOS where you choose a different area of the BIOS that selects the "Boot priority," which seems somewhat redundant as the other section also lists the boot priority. However, I have set the boot priority in both places.

Actually, there may be nothing wrong with the BIOS. When it detected a USB storage device it made it one of the boot priorities. It is probably designed to do this. I should not have blamed HP so quickly, ha, ha.

Thank you so much for your help Proximon.

 

[flong]

Clear CMOS:
[flash=425,349]http://www.youtube.com/v/rdHH9KrceR0[/flash]

Then set you Date, Time the Save & Exit - fingers crossed. Note: if the date or time is correct then repeat procedure.

Re-Install Windows 7:
Delete partitions as described, and note at 2:50 to choose the Format:
To save Writes after the OS is re-installed see the following, choose both options, schedule and restart - http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/Jaquith/Scan-Drives-Windows-7.jpg
I use a third party commercial cloning, partitioning and formatting application.
[flash=425,349]http://www.youtube.com/v/JyMWz5UEgoI[/flash]

Hope this helps.

Thank you so much for your help Jaquith. When I get a moment to breath (I am writing an Owner Contract right now) I will review the videos you posted. I am sure that they will be very helpful.

I may not have to do a clean install. As I have mulled over this issue and as I have listened to you and Proximon, I believe that the mobo may be operating as it is designed and the BIOS is not corrupted or defective. It simply detected the USB storage on the printer and considered it a USB storage device and a possible boot device.

Thanks

 

[jaquith]

If your can boot into Windows then DO NOT do above!!!

I assumed your UEFI BIOS would allow you to {click/select+left click+hold, drop & drag the boot priority} <or> click 'Boot' then pop-up menu the 'drives'; option #1 = [menu], option #2 = [menu].

 

[flong]

If your can boot into Windows then DO NOT do above!!!

I assumed your UEFI BIOS would allow you to {click/select+left click+hold, drop & drag the boot priority} <or> click 'Boot' then pop-up menu the 'drives'; option #1 = [menu], option #2 = [menu].

OK, will do (or not do, ha, ha). Right now I can boot into Windows. However, there is intermittent failure where the computer gets in an endless loop when it is trying to boot. I am not sure why, as I have reset the BIOS.

If necessary I will erase the SSD and do a clean install. Since I just built this computer and my data is backed up, it should not be too much of a problem if it is necessary. Hopefully it won't be.

Do you still think I should use the clear CMOS button to reset the BIOS? I think that may be my next step.

 

[jaquith]

If you have a 'Boot Loop' then yes see the Clear CMOS procedure, and if possible update the BIOS but ONLY if once in the BIOS the rig is perfectly stable. There are all sorts of reasons for 'Boot Loops' and typically it's H/W related but sometimes it can be from Windows.

You might want to start a NEW Post.

 

[flong]

If you have a 'Boot Loop' then yes see the Clear CMOS procedure, and if possible update the BIOS but ONLY if once in the BIOS the rig is perfectly stable. There are all sorts of reasons for 'Boot Loops' and typically it's H/W related but sometimes it can be from Windows.

You might want to start a NEW Post.

Good idea, I apologize for hijacking (unintentionally) this thread. I thought it was a simple problem. Don't even say the words "hardware failure" ha, ha. I will try the clear CMOS procedure to see if it fixes the issue.

To the OP, I know I can speak for all of us that we are very happy that you got your computer up and running. We wish the absolute best.

Hey just a quick trick I learned with the 650D. If you remove the top HDD cage (take it completely out of the case), the airflow from the front fan will blow directly over the motherboard, the CPU and the GPU and it will greatly increase your cooling efficiency for the case (I'm guessing 3C-5C). You still will have room for your SSD and two hard drives which probably should be enough. When you overclock this could become important. My case with a single GPU stays under 40C for the CPU and the motherboard. The GPU seems happiest between 50C- 60C because the dual fans never go above 30%. If I manually increased the fans this would go down - it sets the fan speed and so far I am letting it do it. I think I will crank them up later.