Question Update: Mouse wheel no longer scrolling, found a blown jumper (pics)

[Ru1984]

Hey everyone,

The mouse was working 100% on an older pc setup that I had not too long ago and when trying to use it on my newer setup running windows 11, I immediately noticed that the wheel was not scrolling. I initially thought that it was a software/driver issue, so I began reinstalling drivers, testing it on my laptop but no luck. I couldn't wrap my head around this for a while and decided to take it apart to see if it was hardware related. Upon looking at the internals, I found a blown jumper (JP1) which is in line with the traces that lead to the mouse wheel; an improperly installed pci-e usb 3.0 card was the cause (you live, and you learn 😳) which fried a usb bluetooth dongle, a couple of flash drives, a keyboard, and apparently part of my mouse. Luckily the pointer and both mouse buttons still work fine so replacing this jumper should bring it back to 100% functionality. My question is, would I be able to solder in a blue resistor as a jumper or should I stick to the tan ones? I am unsure of its color and bands as its burnt to a crisp but I'm assuming it should be similar or the same as the jumper on JP2 (see pics). Thanks in advance, any input or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Ruben

 

[Lutfij]

You will need to solder on the exact same resistor(before it blew up, not a blown a resistor). You might want to look around the PCB of the mouse to see if there are other resistors that are the same size and shape. Then replace the blown resistor with a new one. See if that alleviates your (scrolling)issue.

 

[CountMike]

That element looks more like a diode.

 

[Ru1984]

You will need to solder on the exact same resistor(before it blew up, not a blown a resistor). You might want to look around the PCB of the mouse to see if there are other resistors that are the same size and shape. Then replace the blown resistor with a new one. See if that alleviates your (scrolling)issue.

I'll look around the board to see if there are any similar sized resistors. If I can't find any I have some spare boards from other electronics I can scavenge. I appreciate the timely response. Thanks.

 

[Ru1984]

That element looks more like a diode.

It does look like a diode, but I can assure you it's a resistor since it has that hourglass-like shape. It's similar to the ones nearby on the board.

 

[Ru1984]

Update:

Hey everyone, unfortunately, replacing the blown resistor didn't solve my scrolling issue. Upon closer inspection of the components on the circuit board, I found that the capacitor to the left of the blown resistor (see pics in initial post) is discolored and appears to be damaged as well; it is a 25v 10uf and will most likely fix my "no-scroll" once replaced. I don't have an exact replacement on hand but do have a 25v 22uf capacitor and I was wondering if it would be safe to replace it with that one instead? Thanks in advance again for the input and information guys.

Ruben

 

[JeffreyP55]

Hey everyone,

The mouse was working 100% on an older pc setup that I had not too long ago and when trying to use it on my newer setup running windows 11, I immediately noticed that the wheel was not scrolling. I initially thought that it was a software/driver issue, so I began reinstalling drivers, testing it on my laptop but no luck. I couldn't wrap my head around this for a while and decided to take it apart to see if it was hardware related. Upon looking at the internals, I found a blown jumper (JP1) which is in line with the traces that lead to the mouse wheel; an improperly installed pci-e usb 3.0 card was the cause (you live, and you learn 😳) which fried a usb bluetooth dongle, a couple of flash drives, a keyboard, and apparently part of my mouse. Luckily the pointer and both mouse buttons still work fine so replacing this jumper should bring it back to 100% functionality. My question is, would I be able to solder in a blue resistor as a jumper or should I stick to the tan ones? I am unsure of its color and bands as its burnt to a crisp but I'm assuming it should be similar or the same as the jumper on JP2 (see pics). Thanks in advance, any input or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Ruben

I have never seen PC nomenclature JP used for resistors. It refers to link or jumper.
Not sure what the link is for but it seems to be some protection when the electrolytic cap blew. What blew the cap up? Hahaha.

 

[Ru1984]

I have never seen PC nomenclature JP used for resistors. It refers to link or jumper.

Thanks for clarifying.

 

[Eximo]

Zero Ohm resistors are sometimes used as jumpers.

That is a relatively minor capacitance difference, it might work, but it may also throw some RC timing off, so I would wait for a matching component.

 

[Ru1984]

Zero Ohm resistors are sometimes used as jumpers.

That is a relatively minor capacitance difference, it might work, but it may also throw some RC timing off, so I would wait for a matching component.

Gotcha. I appreciate the input. I think I'll just purchase some caps with the same rating as I want it to function exactly as it did before the damage; that being said and sort of "testing the waters", would a 50v 10uf cap be more suitable?

 

[SkyNetRising]

unfortunately, replacing the blown resistor didn't solve my scrolling issue.

Is it like some ultra expensive mouse or something?
How much time do you intend on trying to fix it?
Just get a new one.

 

[Eximo]

Gotcha. I appreciate the input. I think I'll just purchase some caps with the same rating as I want it to function exactly as it did before the damage; that being said and sort of "testing the waters", would a 50v 10uf cap be more suitable?

Wouldn't hurt. There are other factors when selecting capacitors, but you would need to look at the circuit in question. Things like ESR, Inductance, etc. Though in this case I don't think that would matter for the most part.

 

[Ru1984]

Is it like some ultra expensive mouse or something?
How much time do you intend on trying to fix it?
Just get a new one.

Not at all, I just want to gain the experience and satisfaction of knowing I actually repaired this thing which to be honest I've never done before but feel I can get it done.

 

[Ru1984]

Wouldn't hurt. There are other factors when selecting capacitors, but you would need to look at the circuit in question. Things like ESR, Inductance, etc. Though in this case I don't think that would matter for the most part.

I see. Hey thanks I really appreciate the input.

 

[Ru1984]

I have never seen PC nomenclature JP used for resistors. It refers to link or jumper.
Not sure what the link is for but it seems to be some protection when the electrolytic cap blew. What blew the cap up? Hahaha.

That link connects a trace path on the underside of the circuit board coming from the wheel/switch itself. It blew because I installed a pci-e usb 3.0 card which I foolishly 'overpowered' by plugging in a molex connector for extra voltage if needed and in my case was not. It ended up frying 3 peripherals that I plugged into it and luckily only partially damaged my mouse. The card itself blew a dc converter chip.