Upgrade GPU < $300 USD

[Frierfly]

I need a gfx card capable of playing ARK, Evolve: Stage 2, and Steam Hammer.


Operating System
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

CPU
AMD Athlon X4 860K: 46 °C
Kaveri 28nm Technology

RAM
8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)

Motherboard
Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. F2A68HM-H (P0): 32 °C

Graphics
Acer X193W (1440x900@60Hz)

256MB NVIDIA GeForce 8600 GT (EVGA): 50 °C

Storage
149GB Seagate ST3160815AS ATA Device (SATA): 30 °C

Optical Drives
ASUS DRW-1814BLT ATA Device

Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio


Yes, the 8600 GT is ancient, but it is all I had laying around when a series of unfortunate events caused me to be in need of a new mobo/CPU.

 

[clutchc]

You need to specify the size/make/model of your PSU. But if you have at least a 450W high quality PSU, the GTX 1060 in either 3GB or 6GB variety would be ideal. Maybe a bit much for the 860K, but still good.

 

[Chugalug_]

Ditto, you'd also want to consider a CPU upgrade into the near future as well, perhaps with 10nm architectures coming out next year.
Best value 1060 6GB atm: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pbL7YJ/evga-geforce-gtx-1060-6gb-gaming-video-card-06g-p4-6161-kr
Best value 1060 3GB: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pKX2FT/evga-geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-sc-gaming-video-card-03g-p4-6162

 

[mpc007]

Well have to agree - I'm no huge fan of the 1060 (since NV played dirty with the 3GB at launch) but its the ONLY medium-segment GPU which actually has decent price-performance value, all the rest is inflated and are no good options (because if mining cools down, market will get flooded by cheap units so if you bought one earlier for double the MSRP you're hating yourself big time then).

 

[Frierfly]

You need to specify the size/make/model of your PSU. But if you have at least a 450W high quality PSU, the GTX 1060 in either 3GB or 6GB variety would be ideal. Maybe a bit much for the 860K, but still good.

Installed the GTX 1060 6GB, but now the PC won't boot. Pretty sure it's the PSU since the CPU and GPU fans barely spin up. The PSU is 500W, but it is an L&C LC-B500E, so it's not the best, and it's old. Going to buy a new one, I'll let y'all know how that goes.

 

[clutchc]

You need to specify the size/make/model of your PSU. But if you have at least a 450W high quality PSU, the GTX 1060 in either 3GB or 6GB variety would be ideal. Maybe a bit much for the 860K, but still good.

Installed the GTX 1060 6GB, but now the PC won't boot. Pretty sure it's the PSU since the CPU and GPU fans barely spin up. The PSU is 500W, but it is an L&C LC-B500E, so it's not the best, and it's old. Going to buy a new one, I'll let y'all know how that goes.

Can't say for sure if it is the PSU, but if this PSU is the one you have... it is a "fake" 500W where they put all the load capacity on the 5 and 3 v rails that don't need that kind of support. The tiny 18 amp +12V rail puts the PSU in the under-300W category for gaming. My Seasonic 300W has 2 x 18A rails, for example. I suspect that is the problem.

Does it even have a 6 or 6+2 pin connector? Which GTX 1060 6GB did you end up getting?

 

[Frierfly]

Can't say for sure if it is the PSU, but if this PSU is the one you have... it is a "fake" 500W where they put all the load capacity on the 5 and 3 v rails that don't need that kind of support. The tiny 18 amp +12V rail puts the PSU in the under-300W category for gaming. My Seasonic 300W has 2 x 18A rails, for example. I suspect that is the problem.

Does it even have a 6 or 6+2 pin connector? Which GTX 1060 6GB did you end up getting?

I got this GTX 1060. I also picked up this PSU. The system wouldn't POST after installing the new GPU, so I put the old GPU in, but to no avail. Thus, I procured the new PSU, but, alas, the system still won't POST. I think the MoBo got damaged, but there are no obvious signs of damage, like caps bleeding dielectric fluid. All that happens is the system fans cycle on and off in a "bump start" fashion every second or so, and won't stop until I cut power by turning off the PSU switch.

Guess I'm in the market for a new MoBo and a CPU to go with the new PSU and GPU. My case is over a decade old, so I probably should replace that as well. Maybe I should open a new thread for build suggestions?

 

[clutchc]

There's no "obvious" reason that wouldn't work with the components you list. And a dead motherboard is somewhat unlikely if it was working before... and you didn't do something to kill it. Has the board ever worked with a gfx card before?

Btw, you don't have the monitor's video cable plugged in the motherboard's integrated video port, do you? It has to be plugged into the gfx card's video port.

 

[Frierfly]

There's no "obvious" reason that wouldn't work with the components you list. And a dead motherboard is somewhat unlikely if it was working before... and you didn't do something to kill it. Has the board ever worked with a gfx card before?

Btw, you don't have the monitor's video cable plugged in the motherboard's integrated video port, do you? It has to be plugged into the gfx card's video port.

The motherboard worked with the 8600 GT for months before I decided to upgrade the GPU. Also, video cable was plugged into the GPU, not the MoBo video.

I have also pulled everything out so that it's only the MoBo with the ATX_12V and ATX connectors plugged in. Should have got beeps for failed RAM check, but all the system does is pulse the system fans and not boot. I also reset the CMOS, no change in behavior.

I am currently working through this checklist.

 

[clutchc]

Does the system work with the old card back in?

 

[Frierfly]

Does the system work with the old card back in?

Nope. Tried all four combinations of old/new GPU with old/new PSU and I get the same result: Fans pulse on/off, but PC never boots.

 

[clutchc]

Does anything change if you leave the gfx card removed? Obviously you won't get a display, but a good board should power up at least.
Have you checked that the board's power connectors are fully seated? That the latching clip is over the latching nub? Some connectors/headers don't mate up well unless they are fully seated; including the sometimes-separate 4-pin half of the 24-pin connector.

 

[Frierfly]

Does anything change if you leave the gfx card removed? Obviously you won't get a display, but a good board should power up at least.
Have you checked that the board's power connectors are fully seated? That the latching clip is over the latching nub? Some connectors/headers don't mate up well unless they are fully seated; including the sometimes-separate 4-pin half of the 24-pin connector.

Did all of that, nothing changes. Also did the test where you remove everything, including RAM, so that you get the RAM check failure beeps, and there are no beeps, just the fans pulsing until I kill power.

I have ordered a new MoBo, it's a Gigabyte GA-F2A88XN-WIFI. The WiFi option will replace the need to use a PCI-e 1x WiFi antenna card.
(For logistical reasons, the PC is nowhere near the modem.)


**Update**
Installed the new motherboard and hooked everything back up. Booted up with no issues. Pretty sure I damaged the old MoBo during the upgrade process.

All is well that ends well.... Thanks for your help.