Build Advice Upgrading CPU on a 10-year old build

[gompert]

Hi all,

I'm planning upgrades for my build from 2014... I mostly use my PC for gaming. Upgraded the GPU in 2020, now my CPU is the performance bottleneck. I'll need to replace the mobo and RAM. Gonna throw in a new case as well. Doesn't need to have the highest gaming performance, I just want something that'll run smoothly at 1080p for another another 10 years (I'll probably need to upgrade the GPU at some point in between). Looking for general critique. I hope to keep the total cost below $700.

Specifically, do you recommend I use a higher-end CPU cooler, or will the heat sink w/ fan be enough?
Also, is the case I selected large enough for adequate air flow?

Full list of components: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6rp7DZ

New/upgraded components:
CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI PRO B760-P WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory
Case: NZXT H7 Flow (2022) ATX Mid Tower Case
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home Retail - USB 64-bit

Non-upgraded components:
Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Video Card
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX750G Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Various SSDs and HDD for storage
1080p monitor

Approximate Purchase Date: this month
Parts to Upgrade: CPU, motherboard, RAM, CPU cooler, case
Do you need to buy OS: Yes
Overclocking: No
SLI or Crossfire: No
Your Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080

 

[Lutfij]

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX750G Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
If this PSU is 10 years old, I wouldn't recycle it, not with those parts listed above.

Speaking of parts, I'd avoid the 13th Gen Intel processors and if you're going with a K SKU processor, you should look into a Z series chipset. If you intend to stick to a non-K SKU, then you can retain the B series chipset board.
Overclocking: No
Since you won't overclock the processor, then you can retain the non-K SKU and B760 chipset route. FYI, if you still decide to go with 13th Gen, you will need to update the BIOS on it before you can drop in the 13th Gen processor which won't be possible without a 12th Gen processor. You should look into a board that has BIOS Flashback(Asus) or Flash BIOS option(MSI) or Q-Flash Plus(Gigabyte).

 

[Why_Me]

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *Intel Core i5-12600KF 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($159.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: *Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($38.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: *MSI PRO B760-P WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: *Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($53.99 @ Amazon)
Case: *Montech AIR 903 BASE ATX Mid Tower Case ($65.00 @ B&H)
Power Supply: *MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $557.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-10-20 19:16 EDT-0400

 

[geofelt]

Your plan is reasonable.
13th gen and 14th gen will soon be replaced and discounts should abound.
There were issues in 13/14 gen processors because of over voltage by default.
Since fixed according to intel and warranties extended.
https://community.intel.com/t5/Blog...n-Desktop-Instability-Root-Cause/post/1633239

If you install the latest bios you should be fine.

 

[logainofhades]

I would avoid 13th gen, and go with a 5700x3d, if going the more budget DDR4 route. You still get great gaming performance, without the potential issues of 13th and 14th gen chips.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X3D 3 GHz 8-Core Processor ($194.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($36.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 AORUS ELITE AX V2 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Mushkin Enhanced Redline Stiletto 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Evo 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Video Card
Case: Montech AIR 903 MAX ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX750G Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home Retail - USB 64-bit ($134.66 @ Newegg)
Total: $647.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-10-21 12:32 EDT-0400

 

[gompert]

Thank you all for the replies! I appreciate the precautions against 13th gen Intel CPUs and re-using my 10 yo power supply. Feel like I have enough info to finalize my upgrades.

 

[LordVile]

Thank you all for the replies! I appreciate the precautions against 13th gen Intel CPUs and re-using my 10 yo power supply. Feel like I have enough info to finalize my upgrades.

Will also say you don't need to buy an OS you can usually migrate it to a new board. Would also try to go AM5 as you have a better upgrade path and DDR5 Memory. For the same money you can get a 7700X with 32GB of DDR5

 

[gompert]

Will also say you don't need to buy an OS you can usually migrate it to a new board. Would also try to go AM5 as you have a better upgrade path and DDR5 Memory. For the same money you can get a 7700X with 32GB of DDR5

My current OS was originally installed with a Windows OEM system builder license. Think I can migrate it? I assumed OEM meant the OS was bound to my motherboard once installed.

 

[LordVile]

My current OS was originally installed with a Windows OEM system builder license. Think I can migrate it? I assumed OEM meant the OS was bound to my motherboard once installed.

It’s not 100% but it can be done if it’s tied to your Microsoft account. Theres an option to migrate it to a new system, I did it when I went from AM4 to 5. You could also just buy an OEM key

 

[helper800]

My current OS was originally installed with a Windows OEM system builder license. Think I can migrate it? I assumed OEM meant the OS was bound to my motherboard once installed.

OEM keys are as you say, typically tied to the motherboard it was used on. However, that does not mean you cannot try to use it. If it does not work, just use windows without a key until you acquire a new one. If you want to make sure they transfer in the future, make sure you get a retail key instead of an OEM key if they are similarly priced.

I have purchased only one key for Windows 7 about 14-15 years ago and have used it for Windows 7, 8.1, 10, and now 11. Just know that Microsoft allows this because since Windows 8 the user is the product for Microsoft, not the other way around.