Question USB issue using homemade cables

lesthegringo

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Oct 29, 2020
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Hi all

First of all, I need to make it clear that I am not a PC savvy guy, my thing is that I am building a DIY home cockpit so that I can use a flight sim game. This uses various things including Arduinos, OLEDS, screens switches, all of which I have received assistance from other like minded people.

However this particular issue is one we are unable to understand so would like to seek assistance here. Essentially it is that the USB connection for one part appears to be acting in an unexpected way

My rig uses four Nobsound USB amplifiers to drive eight Dayton Audio bass transducers. I have a four port USB hub that connects to the for amplifiers, with a 24v power supply powering the amps, so they are not drawing power via USB, however I still elected to use a powered USB hub. All these components are mounted onto a dedicated module that fits into the back of the sim rig chair, requiring only one USB input plus mains power supply.

Where the complication for me has set in is where I have had to, for construction purposes, make the USB line in sections. This is due to the line having to pass through a console, then to the seat, and finally to the amp module. To make it in one piece would be messy and also leave the cable exposed to damage

First is a male to male USB A 3.0 cable from the PC (motherboard USB 3.0 socket), to a captive female to female USB 3.0 connector mounted on the front of the console.

A USB 2.0 cable with a USB A connector at the front then runs inside the console to the rear, where the wires have been soldered into a four way male G12 aviation connector mounted on a dedicated output plate (shared with the G16 connector for the mains power).

A short fly lead with G12 female connectors at either end then connects to the seat where an input plate again with a G12 and G16 connector for the USB and mains input are mounted. These then have internal fly leads to the power supply coupling and one last G12 connection for the USB, which is then soldered to the input lead for the hub. It sounds more complicated that it is, and when you actually see it it makes a lot more sense that my word salad above. It is also very neat, with minimal exposed wires

So the issue I have is that I connect it all up , and Windows duly recognises the four amps and it all starts working fine. Then about an hour later, the USB amps are no longer recognised, and disconnecting and reconnecting the USB connection does nothing, apart from sometimes, but not always, coming up with a 'the last USB device connected was not recognised'.

To test, I have rigged up a single USB cable that goes directly from the Motherboard to the USB hub input, bypassing all my home made wiring and this does not fail over time, meaning something about my setup is causing the issues. I have checked continuity, resistance, short circuits on all the cables I have made and cannot find anything wrong, meaning that something else must be at play. The fact that it works fine for a while in itself shows that the cables appear to be fundamentally ok in theory.

Can it be that too many connections can cause interference, or maybe pick up some interference from outside?

If anyone is able to give any pointers I would be pleased to try them

Les
 
As you'd expect, most XLR-type connectors are not rated for high frequency use as they are mostly intended for analog audio (microphone) or power transmission. There are some data-rated types that can meet the transmission performance requirements of Cat5e--but that only operates at 100MHz. USB 2.0 runs DDR so at 480Mbps that's 240MHz squarewave. USB 3.0 is more complicated as it's spread-spectrum but runs somewhere around 2.5GHz, which is why poorly shielded cables can interfere with wifi so badly.

Connectors and terminations not designed for high frequency use will have internal reflections which can interfere with the signal and severely reduce the usual USB reliable length limit of 5 or 3 meters. The solution is to use the proper rated connectors for your application. If you want ruggedness and the security of a locking plug then there are these: