Question Very high temperatures on Ryzen 5 2600x. 104 degrees.

gazza1988

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Hi, many apologies, this is likely to be long

First off I'll get the specs out of the way (Pcpartpicker link to current build if more info needed)
MSI B450 tomohawk motherboard (default BIOS except x-amp is enabled and the 3000hz memory is set to 2933hz)
Ryzen 5 2600x cpu with stock wraith spire cooler
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB GAMING OC Video Card
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory (cmk16gx4m2b3000c15)
EVGA GQ 750 W PSU

Because this is related to temps the case is on the desk next to me but is sideways on. By that I mean the tempered glass window points out to the room and there isa good gap between the wall and the front fans and the rear fan just blows out into the room. My case came with 3 fans on the front and 1 on the back.

Note: In the link to pcpartpicker it also shows Hypex ram, I took these out a few weeks ago which reset bios to stock settings)


All of the items are 2 years old (bought May 2019 and were new parts)

RIght so onto the issue.

I used dragon centre alot. I purposefully use the silent option because my PC will not shut up otherwise it locks the cpu to 3.2ghz and fan speed to 20%. During games dragon centre will swap to "extreme performance" which locks the clock to 3.7ghz and fan speed is 100% at all times. Temps are high whilst the kids are on fortnite on "extreme performance" for but only 80-85 degrees high (which isn't that high and well in performance parameters).

Now if I don't use dragon centre and let it "manage itself" like some would say it's supposed to. I get high temps, mainly because the CPU spends 90% of it's time "boosting" to 4.2ghz, even when Idle. I've just watched a youtube video without dragon centre on and my temps, with 4 chrome tabs open and "CPUID HWMonitor" running in foreground, is at 61 degrees which for me is a bit high for a system like mine to only have youtube on. My fan is running at 100% to keep it in the high 50s on temps. I'd doing nothing but type this out.

What prompted me to possibly look into it was earlier when temps hit 99 degrees whilst fortnite was on. I then had the game on again and max temp hit 104 degrees on HWMonitor.

2 days ago I suffered a crash, not a BSOD but the cpu warning light came on with blank screen on my monitor. I turned the PC off using the power button and pressed it again to turn on and the PC booted fine. Immediately loaded dragon centre ( has built in hardware monitor) and the temps were in the mid 80s and dropping.

I have read that the hardware monitoring app I'm using misreports clock speeds but it is currently reporting that my lowest clock speed on the CPU is 2000mhz-2936mhz as minimum (6 cores) and the maximum is 5303mhz on 5 out of 6 cores with the other core hitting 4809mhz maximum.

So apparently I'm overclocking this CPU to ridiculous levels. Like I said I read that it reports incorrect levels so it may not actually be that. Having said that though the maximum voltage is 1.5v on one core so maybe I am. at present my core voltage is 1.431v and fluctuates between that and 1.413v, at Idle still typing this out.


Does anyone have any idea what is wrong? I'm gonna swap to dragon centre now (as I typed it) onto extreme performance. The clock is fixed to 3701mhz and fan is fixed to 100%. the temps dropped to 49 degrees in about 2 seconds (was at 62 when I swapped over). Switch to silent mode (The fan FINALLY shut up) and temps went down to 46 degrees after a minute.

I've got some thermal paste left so I was considering replacing that. I was also considering upgrading the CPU cooler as well.

Steps taken.

  1. Panic
  2. google
  3. Post here....
Joking, I've done a virus/malware scan (only used kaspersky and malwarebytes though) and really cannot think of anything else to do apart from change the paste which has been sat in my drawer for 2 years (noctua NT-H1) which is borderline useable so may just buy more new?
 

Zerk2012

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Hi, many apologies, this is likely to be long

First off I'll get the specs out of the way (Pcpartpicker link to current build if more info needed)
MSI B450 tomohawk motherboard (default BIOS except x-amp is enabled and the 3000hz memory is set to 2933hz)
Ryzen 5 2600x cpu with stock wraith spire cooler
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB GAMING OC Video Card
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory (cmk16gx4m2b3000c15)
EVGA GQ 750 W PSU

Because this is related to temps the case is on the desk next to me but is sideways on. By that I mean the tempered glass window points out to the room and there isa good gap between the wall and the front fans and the rear fan just blows out into the room. My case came with 3 fans on the front and 1 on the back.

Note: In the link to pcpartpicker it also shows Hypex ram, I took these out a few weeks ago which reset bios to stock settings)


All of the items are 2 years old (bought May 2019 and were new parts)

RIght so onto the issue.

I used dragon centre alot. I purposefully use the silent option because my PC will not shut up otherwise it locks the cpu to 3.2ghz and fan speed to 20%. During games dragon centre will swap to "extreme performance" which locks the clock to 3.7ghz and fan speed is 100% at all times. Temps are high whilst the kids are on fortnite on "extreme performance" for but only 80-85 degrees high (which isn't that high and well in performance parameters).

Now if I don't use dragon centre and let it "manage itself" like some would say it's supposed to. I get high temps, mainly because the CPU spends 90% of it's time "boosting" to 4.2ghz, even when Idle. I've just watched a youtube video without dragon centre on and my temps, with 4 chrome tabs open and "CPUID HWMonitor" running in foreground, is at 61 degrees which for me is a bit high for a system like mine to only have youtube on. My fan is running at 100% to keep it in the high 50s on temps. I'd doing nothing but type this out.

What prompted me to possibly look into it was earlier when temps hit 99 degrees whilst fortnite was on. I then had the game on again and max temp hit 104 degrees on HWMonitor.

2 days ago I suffered a crash, not a BSOD but the cpu warning light came on with blank screen on my monitor. I turned the PC off using the power button and pressed it again to turn on and the PC booted fine. Immediately loaded dragon centre ( has built in hardware monitor) and the temps were in the mid 80s and dropping.

I have read that the hardware monitoring app I'm using misreports clock speeds but it is currently reporting that my lowest clock speed on the CPU is 2000mhz-2936mhz as minimum (6 cores) and the maximum is 5303mhz on 5 out of 6 cores with the other core hitting 4809mhz maximum.

So apparently I'm overclocking this CPU to ridiculous levels. Like I said I read that it reports incorrect levels so it may not actually be that. Having said that though the maximum voltage is 1.5v on one core so maybe I am. at present my core voltage is 1.431v and fluctuates between that and 1.413v, at Idle still typing this out.


Does anyone have any idea what is wrong? I'm gonna swap to dragon centre now (as I typed it) onto extreme performance. The clock is fixed to 3701mhz and fan is fixed to 100%. the temps dropped to 49 degrees in about 2 seconds (was at 62 when I swapped over). Switch to silent mode (The fan FINALLY shut up) and temps went down to 46 degrees after a minute.

I've got some thermal paste left so I was considering replacing that. I was also considering upgrading the CPU cooler as well.

Steps taken.

  1. Panic
  2. google
  3. Post here....
Joking, I've done a virus/malware scan (only used kaspersky and malwarebytes though) and really cannot think of anything else to do apart from change the paste which has been sat in my drawer for 2 years (noctua NT-H1) which is borderline useable so may just buy more new?
Buy a decent CPU cooler that case has rather poor airflow and stock coolers sux.
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/PxtKHx/arctic-freezer-34-esports-duo-cpu-cooler-acfre00075a
 
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  1. Panic
  2. google
  3. Post here....
Joking, I've done a virus/malware scan (only used kaspersky and malwarebytes though) and really cannot think of anything else to do apart from change the paste which has been sat in my drawer for 2 years (noctua NT-H1) which is borderline useable so may just buy more new?
seriously...just uninstall dragon center. it's trash. left to it's own devices the CPU does a well enough job of managing itself.

Also, reset CMOS to reverse anything dragon center did that may be strange, like turn on automatic overclocking. Read in your manual how to do that.

Now get HWInfo64. In the sensors area, under the processor section (there are LOTS of sensors) look for T-die. AMD temperature readings are never exactly 'accurate', but that's going to be the best CPU temperature reading since it comes from the CPU itself in telemetry.

Wraithe spire coolers aren't very good but even for that 104C is way, way too high. If hwinfo is reporting that then you have something wrong with the cooler mounting. And not just old thermal paste, it would have to be completely missing.
 
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May 23, 2021
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WRONG for all the ppl talking mess above. It just DOES this on AM4 socket and Windows 10. I have the following;

Capture/Streaming Rig
R7 2700X
ROG STRIX X470-F AM4 Gaming
RTX 2080 SUPER
32 GB DDR4-3200
512 GB Samsung MVNE SSD
1 TB Samsung 850 EVO SATA SSD
2 TB Samsung 870 EVO SATA SSD
Capture Card: AverMedia Live Gamer 4K HDR (PCI-E)
ViewSonic 32 inch 4k HDR Monitor

Temps in the red while idling even on Kraken X53 240mm water cooler. I'd like to think its because of the BIOS that ASUS board dont let you update (whole other thread which brought me here inthe first place). If you can update your BIOS try that. If you cant and its still red youre not alone. This is way more common than people like to act.
 

gazza1988

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Hi. Thanks for the replies.

With the suggestion above about the cooler not seated properly I did very gently apply a bit of pressure to the cooler while it was on (yeah I know) making sure to avoid the fan and to my astonishment the temps dropped by 5 degrees then I let go and they went up again. So it could be a seating issue.

I am looking at a new cooler anyway because the noise on this fan is annoying at times. However I don't get paid from work for 2 days and can't afford a new cooler right now.

I can afford new paste. I have some arctic mx-4 coming later on today. So I think what I will do is replace the existing paste and re seat the cooler again and see what's what. Also maybe the fan is annoying because it's working harder because it's not quite seated correctly?

So I've uninstalled dragon centre and reset cmos the only settings I changed is enabled virtualization for virtual machines and enabled xamp.

Setup hwinfo64, and set the tdie temps to display in the task bar. So far on idle we are around 50 degrees and seem to be +/- 5 degrees either side of 50. That's idle but with a few background apps running.

We will see what results I get from trying it.
 
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I can afford new paste. I have some arctic mx-4 coming later on today. So I think what I will do is replace the existing paste and re seat the cooler again and see what's what. Also maybe the fan is annoying because it's working harder because it's not quite seated correctly?
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Those wraith cooler fans are super annoying when they ramp up and not being properly seated will indeed make it ramp up.

But you don't have to wait for new thermal paste to get it properly seated. Go around the 4 mounting screws with a screw driver in a criss-cross pattern and tighten them up equally. They use a spring so there's a little pre-load and then it suddenly gets really tight; that's when to stop. Do it the same for all four.
 

gazza1988

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Those wraith cooler fans are super annoying when they ramp up and not being properly seated will indeed make it ramp up.

But you don't have to wait for new thermal paste to get it properly seated. Go around the 4 mounting screws with a screw driver in a criss-cross pattern and tighten them up equally. They use a spring so there's a little pre-load and then it suddenly gets really tight; that's when to stop. Do it the same for all four.
OK so I tried this. While it was on so I could see. I live dangerously. 1 wouldn't move and was tight already and the other 3 I felt I got a minute turn but the screw seems to be in the same place.

Anyway looking at the temps. They are still bouncing everywhere but I have set a new minimum temperature. Looking at task manager I'm only using 1-2% of my cpu and 31% of my ram.

The temperature range is 90% of the time between 45.4 degrees and 51.6 degrees. Then it will jump to between 57 and 61 degrees then go back down. Because I have task manager open it seems to correlate with something happening for example antivirus (possibly updating it does it often) Microsoft compatibility telemetry.

As you have probably figured out I'm not an expert or anything so what I'll say next could actually be normal. Should it jump 10 degrees in temperature just to update virus definitions? Or is it because it will boost the clock to 4.2ghz and this explains the extra heat?
 
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The temperature range is 90% of the time between 45.4 degrees and 51.6 degrees. Then it will jump to between 57 and 61 degrees then go back down.
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THAT is pretty typical of Ryzen, especially with one of the Wraithe coolers. It's the boost behavior of the stock processor that causes it, every boost spikes temperature. The boosts come with Windows' background processes that are always running, most inactive at any given moment. Antivirus is one, but there are many including indexing and 'phoning home' to see if there are updates available. It goes on an on, over a hundred processes on my system with almost 3 thousand threads registered and available for execution whenever the moment's right.

So, the temp spiking is typcial...but what's atypical is going as high as 104C. TJmax for these CPU's is only 95C, 105C should mean an instant shutdown. You want to avoid temps above 90C sustained, and if you get a decent cooler and keep temps no higher than mid-70's doing your favorite computing tasks (gaming!) it rewards with better performance. Although, if your fave happens to be rendering out long videos in 4k then temps in mid-80's are probably inevitable.
 
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gazza1988

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Well a couple of days ago it shut off. Left a fans still running black screen and the cpu warning light on the motherboard. Pressed the power button until it turned off. Turned it back on after a short while (10 or so seconds) and it booted fine. Loaded up monitoring on dragon centre and it was in the 80s temperature wise. So that's what made me think I had a cooling issue. Whilst it is 2 years old I was throttling it with dragon centre for years, thinking I had to use it.

Is there an application I can use to log just the temperatures? I'm wondering if I've got a dodgy cpu. Everything is default, there's no over clocking of the cpu at all unless the defaults for my motherboard enable it.
 
Well a couple of days ago it shut off. Left a fans still running black screen and the cpu warning light on the motherboard. Pressed the power button until it turned off. Turned it back on after a short while (10 or so seconds) and it booted fine. Loaded up monitoring on dragon centre and it was in the 80s temperature wise. So that's what made me think I had a cooling issue. Whilst it is 2 years old I was throttling it with dragon centre for years, thinking I had to use it.

Is there an application I can use to log just the temperatures? I'm wondering if I've got a dodgy cpu. Everything is default, there's no over clocking of the cpu at all unless the defaults for my motherboard enable it.
Definitely give it a CMOS reset. Either that or find the 'load default settings' toggle, usually in the save and restart section. Just in case some settings are screwed up.

I'm pretty sure HWINfo64 does logging, although you may need to get one of the paid versions.But for the free one near term 'logging' is simple: just right click on the sensor and tell it to put a graph on the desktop. You can open the graph up to show several minutes of temp movement.

HWMonitor does too but it's not always accurate and no graphing capability I know of.
 
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gazza1988

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So I did a test playing a couple of games of fortnite and temps didn't get above 82. However is was only 2 and I died very quickly (stupid building mechanic) stuck to fortnite because thats what I used to test it originally. Once the kids have their homework done I'll get them on it and see what's what.

Early signs are promising. And this is just with the screw tightened just a really small bit.

Edit: I was on the game 10 minutes maximum so not the greatest test going.
 

Karadjgne

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Turning off Dragon Center doesn't work the way you'd think. Dragon Center changes the AMD boost algorithms and loads at boot/reset with its own values. Turning it off doesn't change that, it only stops you from making changes.

If you want stock AMD performance parameters, you need to Remove Dragon Center entirely, clean out windows and the registry, reset cmos/bios parameters.

Without a minimum of a clean stock settings pc, kinda hard to diagnose or see where issues may or may not be or what actual baseline temps and performance should show.

Use HWInfo (sensors only), not HwMonitor as that's not generally accurate for every system setup until vetted by trial and error verification.
 
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Early signs are promising. And this is just with the screw tightened just a really small bit.
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All it needs is a tiny gap in the heatsink-CPU heat spreader join to insert a major amount of thermal resistance. But also, I'm not usually one to blame 'old thermal compound' but your cooler has been loosely mounted for two years. So the compound that was there could have dried out and not working as it should. Getting the new thermal compound on there might give you a little more improvement.

Remove the cooler carefully...heat it up first, then shut down and loosen the screws all the way. Twist is slightly side to side then lift straight up, to prevent pulling the CPU out of the socket.

Clean up both surfaces with paper towels and isopropyl alcohol. Place a pea-sized drop of new material in the center, re-install and tighten all four screws in criss-cross fashion. Good to go.
 

gazza1988

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Temps are back to hitting 96 degrees during gaming (turns out prolonged gaming helps lol.)

Ill give the thermal compound a shot. Pc is already pretty warm so should loosen the paste a bit.

If not much improvement then I will look at aftermarket cooler in a couple of days when I get paid. I believe some coolers come with paste already applied but if not I'll have some Arctic mx-4 spare so no major issue if it doesn't work. I'm sure it will "go off" in the tube before I'll need any again.
 
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If not much improvement then I will look at aftermarket cooler in a couple of days when I get paid.
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that will give you the most happiness...not only better temperatures, but much quieter. BeQuiet makes some very nice ones, quiet and as effective as Noctua's. The Shadow Rock 3 is especially interesting as reviews show it's cooling well above it's price and just as quietly too.
 

gazza1988

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So temps have lowered somewhat and now the fan being on as it wishes its driving the missus nuts. Usually when I'm not using it it's on the silent mode which keeps the fans quiet and throttles the clock speed, most she uses it for is Google if at all.

Because it was only ever on either silent or extreme the cooler fan was either constantly at 20% or 100%, it's easier to ignore it. But now it's bouncing every where its harder to ignore.

I've checked my case specs and apparently the maximum height supported is 170mm. So I'd need a fan but most seem to be under that (I did goodle the height or the arctic freezer 34 duo and its either 157mm or 187mm. Plus with the stand offs could this put the height a little bigger? I'm a tad confused.

A friend of mine sent me some links to some deals like the Arctic freezer 34 esports (non-duo) for £25. Scythe ninja 5 for £54. Cooler master masterliquid 240 for £48. Be quiet pure rock slim 2 for £23. noctua nh-d15s for £80.

Ive no idea if those prices are good or not. Or even if the fans are good.

Also, how would I know if its the correct distance to not cover ram, or other components?
 
So temps have lowered somewhat and now the fan being on as it wishes its driving the missus nuts. Usually when I'm not using it it's on the silent mode which keeps the fans quiet and throttles the clock speed, most she uses it for is Google if at all.

Because it was only ever on either silent or extreme the cooler fan was either constantly at 20% or 100%, it's easier to ignore it. But now it's bouncing every where its harder to ignore.

I've checked my case specs and apparently the maximum height supported is 170mm. So I'd need a fan but most seem to be under that (I did goodle the height or the arctic freezer 34 duo and its either 157mm or 187mm. Plus with the stand offs could this put the height a little bigger? I'm a tad confused.

A friend of mine sent me some links to some deals like the Arctic freezer 34 esports (non-duo) for £25. Scythe ninja 5 for £54. Cooler master masterliquid 240 for £48. Be quiet pure rock slim 2 for £23. noctua nh-d15s for £80.

Ive no idea if those prices are good or not. Or even if the fans are good.

Also, how would I know if its the correct distance to not cover ram, or other components?
I'd be very interested in the masterliquid 240 at that price. I have one cooling my 3700x that's just as quiet as you can imagine even rendering videos. Being an AIO it's just a water block on the CPU so memory clearance isn't an issue but your case has to be able to mount a 240mm AIO radiator.

The Noctua cooler you can be extremely confident that the fans are quiet, and that one in particular would be.

But the quirk about Ryzen is the way the processor boosts and spikes temp. You have to make a custom fan profile to limit the fan surges along with the temp spikes. With a properly decent cooler it's pretty easy: I set up a constant speed that's barely audible up to about 65-70C. Then let it rise to something noticeable but not annoying at about 85C. Only around 90C let it get to be really noticeable or annoying.
 

gazza1988

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The masterliquid is £52 and is a "lite" version (I actually opened the link he sent) not sure if that matters.

As for aio my case can have a 360mm radiator in to top and a 420mm radiator on the front (but for the front a 420mm has some thickness limitations)
 
The masterliquid is £52 and is a "lite" version (I actually opened the link he sent) not sure if that matters.

As for aio my case can have a 360mm radiator in to top and a 420mm radiator on the front (but for the front a 420mm has some thickness limitations)
It sounds like your case is designed for a custom closed loop cooling installation that can use pretty thick radiators. Front mount is best since it draws cool air across the radiator, making it unaffected by the hot air the GPU blows out while gaming. I seriously doubt an AIO will have a radiator as thick as a CCL rig would.

BTW: proper air flow arrangement is 'in' from front and bottom, out at top and rear to work with natural convection influences.

I believe the 'lite' just refers to the lack of RGB effects; at most just a lit logo on the water block. The radiator, tubing and pump/block would be standard.

ADDED: I just looked at the 'lite', it does use FEP tubing (prevents evaporation over time) but no mesh sleeving so a little bit less aesthetic when installed. And of course, no RGB.
 
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gazza1988

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Thanks. My case came with 3 120mm front fans so if I was to get aio you would recommend I mount it to the front and move the fans to the top but orientated to push air out instead if in as it is now?

Also if the above is correct would it be wise to leave a 120mm on the front or move all 3 to the top.

I swear all these fans my case would be levitating!
 
Thanks. My case came with 3 120mm front fans so if I was to get aio you would recommend I mount it to the front and move the fans to the top but orientated to push air out instead if in as it is now?

Also if the above is correct would it be wise to leave a 120mm on the front or move all 3 to the top.

I swear all these fans my case would be levitating!
I'd want it in the front, with fans arranged to draw air into the case and put the three fans on top/rear to draw air out. But then, I guess it just about as much depends on aesthetics since it might leave a big ugly hole visible in the front. You can use the three case fans to cool the rad I suppose and move the rad's fans to the top. You don't have to keep them together, there's lots of flexibility in mounting the fans.

And then, top mount will work. But whatever you do, it's airflow in from the front, out the top and rear.

Lots of fans are good because you can have them all running at a fairly low, quiet, speed but still get really good airflow.
 

gazza1988

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Aesthetically I'm not too fussed. I mean I'm a "substance over style" kind of guy. Don't get me wrong it's good to have one that looks good but by no means is it important.

The front of my case only has vents at the side the front is smooth plastic.

https://www.msi.com/PC-Case/Mpg-Gungnir-100 that's a link to the case and there is a section on air flow which says I can have 7 fans, 3 front 3 top and 1 rear. At the moment I have 3 front and 1 rear.

Thinking about it. I might have to move the case forwards from where it is. Those "side vents" on the front panel one side is fairly close to the wall so may need to pull it forwards a tad. That non-glass side panel is a fingers width off the wall and the front is probably 3 fingers width off the other wall.
 
Oh...well...it's too late I guess to do much about it but.... that case looks to be the poster child of what not to do for proper ventilation.

First is the solid front panel...and top panel! Then the very narrow side vents. That's just not going to breathe easily, you'll need all 7 fans blowing pretty hard to ventilate it well. That's got to be a big reason you have a CPU temp problem too since the tiny Wraithe cooler is doomed to using the hot air from that fire-breathing 2080super to cool the CPU while gaming. Air coolers can only work well if the case is well ventilated.

A liquid cooler is definitely your best choice, on the front pulling in as much cool air across it as possible when the CPU gets hot. Three fans on top, a fourth in the rear to suck all the hot air out they can. The big advantage a liquid cooler offers comes down to simple physics: water has enormous capacity to take on heat. Even with poor airflow across the radiator you might get a couple hours before CPU temps begin to rise up to where they do pretty quickly now (10-15 min's?). Hopefully you'll get enough airflow across the radiator that it won't at all since you have a 2600x CPU.
 

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