Hello,Hello, I've been having a recent issue with my year old, custom build gaming pc that involves strange cpu overheating. Only recently, my cpu has started to hit around 60-65 degrees C. The kicker is that if i simply alt tab out of the game, it goes straight back down to 40 C, like if it were idling. Is it usual for the cpu to get hot only if the game is actually running, but not if it is alt tabbed out yet still on. Also, only my cpu is overheating, my gpu is fine. Don't know if this will help but this also doesn't happen for games that actually overheat my pc, specificly Far Cry 3. It gets that hot even if i'm alt tabbed out, so I will be getting a new heatsink soon. Any suggestions about what the problem may be, I would love to keep playing games. My specs are windows 7, 64 bit, an intel core i5 2400 @ 3.10GHz cpu, 8 GB of ram, a biostar group TZ68K+ mobo, GeForce 9800 GTX+ gpu, 699 GB Hitachi HDS721075DLE630 hard drive. Any help would be appreciated.
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Really, because at about 70 it turns off my computer entirly, not just a restart. When I turn it on, i don't get an error message. This has only happened on Far Cry 3, and on a couple of other games that aren't that graphic intensive, like left 4 dead 2 and saints row the third. I still plan on getting a new heatsink, which will hopefully fix te far cry 3 problem. So what is "Hot" for an i5? Also, if my computer isn't getting too hot, why is it shutting down?
Youtubegamefox
Honorable
- Jan 2, 2013
- 19
- 0
- 10,510
What kind of power supply do you run, and cooler for the i5? Unless overclocked that should definitely not be a issue, and even if so what is the case, also try to run all fans at 100% and see if it does not shut off, and post temps
Youtubegamefox
Honorable
- Jan 2, 2013
- 19
- 0
- 10,510
the max temp of the intel 2400 is 72'c so its working correctly if its shutting off the pc at 70'c. things you can do to increase efficiency of your fans. if you bios has a fan control where you can increase the fans rpm at a given temp is lower the minimum temp at which the fan reaches 50% this will broaden the thermal scale. it may still get up to 65'c but should take a bit longer to get there but the chances are because your running the fan faster at lower temps you should be able to reduce the over all max temp by 5-10'c
getting a good 3rd party cooler is the better option. there are some cheap but very good options out there. i have a thermolabs barham which i used when i first got my i7 and it worked well. very well in fact for a £20 cooler. i managed to run my i7 920 @4.2 ghz wile maxing out at 73'c not many coolers at the time could match that and none for the money.
the 212 evo is probably the current best comparison to the thermolab cooler although it could use a better fan. swapping the original for a fluid dynamic bearing fan will make this noisy chunk into an effective and quiet cooler.
well worth the all in asking price of 35 fo the cooler and new fan.
getting a good 3rd party cooler is the better option. there are some cheap but very good options out there. i have a thermolabs barham which i used when i first got my i7 and it worked well. very well in fact for a £20 cooler. i managed to run my i7 920 @4.2 ghz wile maxing out at 73'c not many coolers at the time could match that and none for the money.
the 212 evo is probably the current best comparison to the thermolab cooler although it could use a better fan. swapping the original for a fluid dynamic bearing fan will make this noisy chunk into an effective and quiet cooler.
well worth the all in asking price of 35 fo the cooler and new fan.
how to remove the heat sink and clean it...
first you will need some bits and bobs.
some good quality thermal paste zalman tuniq arcticcool all make very good pastes that are within 1'c of each other for perfomance...
acrtic silver number 5 or mx 2 or mx 4
tuniq tx-4
zalman zm stg1 are all good and will do the job well...
stay well clear of akasas or similar ultra budget brands they do work but not very well.
a size 1 posi drive or cross cut screw driver.
a small 1 inch brush
some lint free natural fiber cloth
a bottle of rubbing alcohol 90% or better isopropyl alcohol if you cant find any TIM remover (thermal interface material/thermal paste).
a clean and dry work surface (i prefer working on the floor)
some paper towel.
an optional earthing lead.
turn off the pc completely.
let all the residual current drain from the board and psu by leaving the plug in the wall after you power off the pc for about 5 mins or till you see all the motherboard led's go out.
while its pluged in you will want to earth yourself. you can do this by touching the case as the earth from the wall will ground you.
if you have a carpeted room i recommend you dont work in it, if its nylon as 1 swipe of a foot could put enough electricity into the board to kill your cpu or something else.
1s your satisfied your earthed properly by attaching your earthing strip to a radiator or some other ground if you have 1.
remove the plug from the wall and open the case.
your ready to start cleaning.
after you open the case have a look at what goes were your looking for the lead that comes off the cpu fan to the cpu fan header.
unplug this first.
if your fan is a clip on then prise open the clips from either side and remove the fan and place it to 1 side.
find the locking mechanism for your heatsync some will be
finger screws, posi screws, or quarter turn grip locking clip.
zalman do a simple snap catch which you just lift the loose catch and with a little pressure it should just pop off.
which ever they are gently remove it/them
if there the press down type from intel then give them a quarter turn and pull upwards they should come away with a small pop if it doesn't dont force it just turn it back the quater turn and try pulling gently till you hear the pop..
the other kinds will just unscrew or simple clip.
remove the heat sync then if you want you can do 1 of 2 things for the cpu.
you can leave it where it is and use a cotton swap with a little cleaning solution (tim remover) to remove any paste residue.
or
you can unclip and slide out the cpu and clean it off then.
clean both heat conducting surfaces properly by wiping the bulk off with a paper towel then use the natural fiber cloth with a little tim on it to clean any remaining residue of the old paste.
clean and dry both contact surfaces...
take the brush and use it to clean between the fins of the cooler and the blades of the fan 1s your happy that everything is dust free you can start putting the heatsync back together.
put the cpu back in its housing if you removed it, making sure the locking clip is lifted and fully extended, place the cpu in the socket making sure its the correct way round. it will just sit on the surface... now gently pull down on the lever and the cpu should drop and slide into the socket. 1s the lever is in the fully down position lock it in place.
make sure you havent gotten any finger prints or dust on the heat spreader of the cpu. if you have give it a quick wipe with the cloth with tim on it. making sure its clean and tim free after...
now take your tim paste (likely in a syringe) put a small amount in the middle of the cpu a flat spot about the size of a garden pea or a few grains of rice.
next place the heat-sync over the cpu and press down gently giving a few gentle twists left and right to help spread the paste... lift off the heat-sync and remove anything that has spilled over. if you did it properly there should be a fingerprint type pattern on both contact surfaces with no overspill. again place the heat-sync on the cpu this time when you press it down and twist it. keep twisting left and right a small amount till you feel the resistance change from slippy to stiff. this means the air has been forced out and its time to lock the heat-sync down...
tighten the bolts finger tight in an X fashion corner to corner top to bottom, top to bottom. place the fan back on and clip it down, plug in the header , close the case and turn the pc on...
if all is well the pc will boot and temps will be down...
good luck.
first you will need some bits and bobs.
some good quality thermal paste zalman tuniq arcticcool all make very good pastes that are within 1'c of each other for perfomance...
acrtic silver number 5 or mx 2 or mx 4
tuniq tx-4
zalman zm stg1 are all good and will do the job well...
stay well clear of akasas or similar ultra budget brands they do work but not very well.
a size 1 posi drive or cross cut screw driver.
a small 1 inch brush
some lint free natural fiber cloth
a bottle of rubbing alcohol 90% or better isopropyl alcohol if you cant find any TIM remover (thermal interface material/thermal paste).
a clean and dry work surface (i prefer working on the floor)
some paper towel.
an optional earthing lead.
turn off the pc completely.
let all the residual current drain from the board and psu by leaving the plug in the wall after you power off the pc for about 5 mins or till you see all the motherboard led's go out.
while its pluged in you will want to earth yourself. you can do this by touching the case as the earth from the wall will ground you.
if you have a carpeted room i recommend you dont work in it, if its nylon as 1 swipe of a foot could put enough electricity into the board to kill your cpu or something else.
1s your satisfied your earthed properly by attaching your earthing strip to a radiator or some other ground if you have 1.
remove the plug from the wall and open the case.
your ready to start cleaning.
after you open the case have a look at what goes were your looking for the lead that comes off the cpu fan to the cpu fan header.
unplug this first.
if your fan is a clip on then prise open the clips from either side and remove the fan and place it to 1 side.
find the locking mechanism for your heatsync some will be
finger screws, posi screws, or quarter turn grip locking clip.
zalman do a simple snap catch which you just lift the loose catch and with a little pressure it should just pop off.
which ever they are gently remove it/them
if there the press down type from intel then give them a quarter turn and pull upwards they should come away with a small pop if it doesn't dont force it just turn it back the quater turn and try pulling gently till you hear the pop..
the other kinds will just unscrew or simple clip.
remove the heat sync then if you want you can do 1 of 2 things for the cpu.
you can leave it where it is and use a cotton swap with a little cleaning solution (tim remover) to remove any paste residue.
or
you can unclip and slide out the cpu and clean it off then.
clean both heat conducting surfaces properly by wiping the bulk off with a paper towel then use the natural fiber cloth with a little tim on it to clean any remaining residue of the old paste.
clean and dry both contact surfaces...
take the brush and use it to clean between the fins of the cooler and the blades of the fan 1s your happy that everything is dust free you can start putting the heatsync back together.
put the cpu back in its housing if you removed it, making sure the locking clip is lifted and fully extended, place the cpu in the socket making sure its the correct way round. it will just sit on the surface... now gently pull down on the lever and the cpu should drop and slide into the socket. 1s the lever is in the fully down position lock it in place.
make sure you havent gotten any finger prints or dust on the heat spreader of the cpu. if you have give it a quick wipe with the cloth with tim on it. making sure its clean and tim free after...
now take your tim paste (likely in a syringe) put a small amount in the middle of the cpu a flat spot about the size of a garden pea or a few grains of rice.
next place the heat-sync over the cpu and press down gently giving a few gentle twists left and right to help spread the paste... lift off the heat-sync and remove anything that has spilled over. if you did it properly there should be a fingerprint type pattern on both contact surfaces with no overspill. again place the heat-sync on the cpu this time when you press it down and twist it. keep twisting left and right a small amount till you feel the resistance change from slippy to stiff. this means the air has been forced out and its time to lock the heat-sync down...
tighten the bolts finger tight in an X fashion corner to corner top to bottom, top to bottom. place the fan back on and clip it down, plug in the header , close the case and turn the pc on...
if all is well the pc will boot and temps will be down...
good luck.
Youtubegamefox
Honorable
- Jan 2, 2013
- 19
- 0
- 10,510
Yeh, it helped lower it by about 5 degrees, but it is still getting too hot. I'm mostly like just gonna save money and get a new gpu(mine is too old anyhow), cpu/heatsink(also could do with some upgrades), and powersupply(cause why not).
Well, not sure if this helped but i messed around in my Nvidia control panel and turned off v-sync. It seemed to lower the temps by about 5 degrees(playable without crashing). Would this actually help the temps or am I just stupid and hopeful?
Sunius :
RAM. When you hear memory, it's more than likely talking about RAM 
.
.
Figured. I still wasn't able to get the memtest working but I did go ahead and do windows memory scan. Got 0 errors. Is there any way to fix ram problems other than getting more and if I were to get more, how much would it cost? Also, why would a lack of ram cause these random shutdowns? Also, would it explain my rising cpu temps?
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