Question What are these temps in HWMonitor and are they too high ?

Feb 24, 2025
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Hello, i have been using HWMonitor recently to monitor my prebuilt system as i'm having some performance issues with it, i have noticed 2 temperatures that go higher than anything else and i'm wondering what they are and do they possibly effect my CPU/PCs performance, the 2 temps are PCH from Motherboard and VR from my CPU.

My CPU is i5-12400F which has managed to get a pretty low score of 8,197 in 3DMark Time Spy, i was under the impression that it should be 10-12K.
Motherboard is Lenovo 3741, this is all i can get from HWMonitor.
Prebuilt is IdeaCentre Gaming 5 17IAB7 (RTX 3060)

If need more info let me know.

Here is the Time Spy results i ran few days ago if they show anything useful.
https://www.3dmark.com/spy/53525864




elpIHpY.png

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Don't use HWmonitor. I'll tell you why below, but suffice to say it is often not accurate. HWinfo is a FAR better choice for monitoring sensor readings. I would uninstall HWmonitor, download HWinfo, install it, run it, choose the "Sensors only" option, only, not Summary, then run your tests again BUT this time screencap ALL of the sensors so we can get a better picture. Also, it would be helpful to do it while nothing at all is open and the system has been sitting idle for like five minutes and then again under a full load. You will probably need to expand the HWinfo sensors window height to reach from top to bottom of your screen (Width only needs to be wide enough to see all the values) and take several screenshots for both idle and load.
 
Monitoring software

HWmonitor, Open hardware monitor, Realtemp, Speccy, Speedfan, Windows utilities, CPU-Z, NZXT CAM and most of the bundled motherboard utilities are often not the best choice as they are not always accurate. Some are actually grossly inaccurate, especially with certain chipsets or specific sensors that for whatever reason they tend to not like or work well with. I've found HWinfo or CoreTemp to be the MOST accurate with the broadest range of chipsets and sensors. They are also almost religiously kept up to date.

CoreTemp is great for just CPU thermals including core temps or distance to TJmax on older AMD platforms.

HWinfo is great for pretty much EVERYTHING, including CPU thermals, core loads, core temps, package temps, GPU sensors, HDD and SSD sensors, motherboard chipset and VRM sensor, all of it. When starting HWinfo after installation, always check the box next to "sensors only" and de-select the box next to "summary".


Run HWinfo and look at system voltages and other sensor readings.

Monitoring temperatures, core speeds, voltages, clock ratios and other reported sensor data can often help to pick out an issue right off the bat. HWinfo is a good way to get that data and in my experience tends to be more accurate than some of the other utilities available. CPU-Z, GPU-Z and Core Temp all have their uses but HWinfo tends to have it all laid out in a more convenient fashion so you can usually see what one sensor is reporting while looking at another instead of having to flip through various tabs that have specific groupings, plus, it is extremely rare for HWinfo to not report the correct sensor values under the correct sensor listings, or misreport other information. Utilities like HWmonitor, Openhardware monitor and Speccy, tend to COMMONLY misreport sensor data, or not report it at all.

After installation, run the utility and when asked, choose "sensors only". IF you get a message about system stability you can simply ignore it and continue on WITH the option to monitor the sensor OR you can disable the monitoring for THAT sensor and continue on based on the option it gives you at the time. If you choose to continue on, WITH monitoring of that sensor, which is what I normally do, and there IS instability, that's fine. It's not going to hurt anything. Simply restart the HWinfo program (Or reboot if necessary and THEN restart the HWinfo program) and THEN choose to disable that sensor, and continue on with sensors only monitoring.

The other window options have some use but in most cases everything you need will be located in the sensors window. If you're taking screenshots to post for troubleshooting, it will most likely require taking three screenshots and scrolling down the sensors window between screenshots in order to capture them all.

It is most helpful if you can take a series of HWinfo screenshots at idle, after a cold boot to the desktop. Open HWinfo and wait for all of the Windows startup processes to complete. Usually about four or five minutes should be plenty. Take screenshots of all the HWinfo sensors.

Next, run something demanding like Prime95 (With AVX and AVX2 disabled) or Heaven benchmark. Take another set of screenshots while either of those is running so we can see what the hardware is doing while under a load.


*Download HWinfo




For temperature monitoring only, I feel Core Temp is the most accurate and also offers a quick visual reference for core speed, load and CPU voltage:


*Download Core Temp




Ryzen master for Zen or newer AMD CPUs, or Overdrive for older Pre-Ryzen platforms (AM3/AM3+/FM2/FM2+)

For monitoring on AMD Ryzen and Threadripper platforms including Zen or newer architectures, it is recommended that you use Ryzen master if for no other reason than because any updates or changes to monitoring requirements are more likely to be implemented sooner, and properly, than with other monitoring utilities. Core Temp and HWinfo are still good, with this platform, but when changes to CPU micro code or other BIOS modifications occur, or there are driver or power plan changes, it sometimes takes a while before those get implemented by 3rd party utilities, while Ryzen master, being a direct AMD product, generally gets updated immediately. Since it is also specific to the hardware in question, it can be more accurately and specifically developed without any requirement for inclusion of other architectures which won't be compatible in any case. You wouldn't use a hammer to drive a wood screw in (At least I hope not) and this is very much the same, being the right tool for the job at hand.

As far as the older AMD FX AM3+ platforms including Bulldozer and Piledriver families go, there are only two real options here. You can use Core Temp, but you will need to click on the Options menu, click Settings, click Advanced and put a check mark next to the setting that says "Show Distance to TJmax in temperature fields" and then save settings and exit the options menu system. This may or may not work for every FX platform, so using AMD Overdrive is the specific, again, right tool for the job, and recommended monitoring solution for this architecture. Since these FX platforms use "Thermal margins" rather than an actual "core/package" temp type thermal monitoring implementation, monitoring as you would with older or newer AMD platforms, or any Intel platform, won't work properly.

For more information about this, please visit here for an in depth explanation of AMD thermal margin monitoring.

Understanding AMD thermal margins for Pre-Ryzen processors





*Download Ryzen Master




*Download AMD Overdrive



Also, posting screenshots, when requested, is helpful so WE can see what is going on as well and you can learn how to do that here:

How to post images on Tom's hardware forums

 
Don't use HWmonitor. I'll tell you why below, but suffice to say it is often not accurate. HWinfo is a FAR better choice for monitoring sensor readings. I would uninstall HWmonitor, download HWinfo, install it, run it, choose the "Sensors only" option, only, not Summary, then run your tests again BUT this time screencap ALL of the sensors so we can get a better picture. Also, it would be helpful to do it while nothing at all is open and the system has been sitting idle for like five minutes and then again under a full load. You will probably need to expand the HWinfo sensors window height to reach from top to bottom of your screen (Width only needs to be wide enough to see all the values) and take several screenshots for both idle and load.
Hi, i downloaded HWinfo and got the screenshots idle and after benchmark, a whoppin 10 screenshots so i will put a Link to imgur because 10 screenshots from that will take crazy amounts of space if i upload em here one after another, i should also mention that i recently swapped my 16GB of ram to 32GB, i think the last test i linked had my prebuilt 16gb RAM in it.


Imgur Idle HWinfo

Imgur after benchmark HWinfo
 
ok what ram did you switch 2 i should mention that lenovo motherboards tend to have no heatsinks on the vrms which can cause loss in performance.

also the board is most likely locked to 1.2v

in the bios are you able to enable xmp ?

https://uk.crucial.com/memory/ddr4/CT2K16G4DFRA32A
I swapped the default 16GB @ 3200 MHz DDR4 to Kingston Fury Renegade 2x16GB @ 2400 MHz DDR4, it should run at 3200 but i did not think that i would need XMP to get it to 3200 MHz so its at 2400 now, i play games like Rust where i have some issues with 16GB so i had to upgrade.

BIOS on Lenovo is incredibly limited it seems and has almost nothing but some CPU options like Turbo.... Hyper Threading and LED options... security etc.. but no XMP.

Also this PC when i purchased it ran games extremely well without any problems and high FPS, its just in the past maybe 6 months or so that i have noticed some major performance loss, i have taught myself to swap thermal paste on both CPU and GPU, at one point i thought the GPU was the problem but i don't think so anymore, also clean my PC regularly and i'm very careful while doing so.
 
I swapped the default 16GB @ 3200 MHz DDR4 to Kingston Fury Renegade 2x16GB @ 2400 MHz DDR4, it should run at 3200 but i did not think that i would need XMP to get it to 3200 MHz so its at 2400 now, i play games like Rust where i have some issues with 16GB so i had to upgrade.

BIOS on Lenovo is incredibly limited it seems and has almost nothing but some CPU options like Turbo.... Hyper Threading and LED options... security etc.. but no XMP.

that's what i figured its limited to the 1.2v going with higher

also make sure that the ram is in slots 2 and 4 they are grey slots.

2400mhz is its lowest speed it goes on renegade I have similar kit.
 
Also if i was to change my resolution or graphic settings in game those usually tend to not change my FPS at all, might see like 5-10 FPS difference between low and max, mostly i tried this a lot in Counter Strike 2 where i struggle the most with my FPS, in Youtube i see people doing tests with similar components and hit around 270-300 FPS stable, i get between 105-160.
 
Also if i was to change my resolution or graphic settings in game those usually tend to not change my FPS at all, might see like 5-10 FPS difference between low and max, mostly i tried this a lot in Counter Strike 2 where i struggle the most with my FPS, in Youtube i see people doing tests with similar components and hit around 270-300 FPS stable, i get between 105-160.


at what resolution are you playing ?. and whats your monitor ?
and at what settings.

games at 1080p will lean heavier on the cpu.
1440p gpu gets more involved
4k it will sit on side lines and waits for gpu.


also 105-160 is about what i would expect from a 3060. if settings are cranked up. at 1080p or 1440p.
 
at what resolution are you playing ?. and whats your monitor ?
and at what settings.

games at 1080p will lean heavier on the cpu.
1440p gpu gets more involved
4k it will sit on side lines and waits for gpu.


also 105-160 is about what i would expect from a 3060. if settings are cranked up. at 1080p or 1440p.
Main monitor
Samsung Odyssey G7 C27G7 27"
2560x1440 240 hz 1ms G-SYNC on

Second Monitor
Samsung Odyssey G3 S27AG320 27"
1920x1080 165 hz 1ms

I assume you mean in-game settings? in competitive games i play with most stuff on low unless it gives a advantage such as dynamic shadows in Counter Strike 2.

if i swap between the 2 resolutions there is pretty much no difference in the game, i also feel like since i got around 400 FPS the day i bought this PC with FPS locked at 400 in older version (CS:GO) i should have way more than 105-160, i know its a newer version of the game but it should not be this bad, i believe it still is with little updated graphics a CPU heavy game, however the utilization % is usually around like 50-60% while playing not sure if that is normal.
 
Main monitor
Samsung Odyssey G7 C27G7 27"
2560x1440 240 hz 1ms G-SYNC on

Second Monitor
Samsung Odyssey G3 S27AG320 27"
1920x1080 165 hz 1ms

I assume you mean in-game settings? in competitive games i play with most stuff on low unless it gives a advantage such as dynamic shadows in Counter Strike 2.

if i swap between the 2 resolutions there is pretty much no difference in the game, i also feel like since i got around 400 FPS the day i bought this PC with FPS locked at 400 in older version (CS:GO) i should have way more than 105-160, i know its a newer version of the game but it should not be this bad, i believe it still is with little updated graphics a CPU heavy game, however the utilization % is usually around like 50-60% while playing not sure if that is normal.

try changing your windows power plan

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFPMsq2YwKA


also turn off hardware gpu acceleration it can screw up with some games as well.

  1. Open Settings by pressing Win + I
  2. Select System in the left sidebar
  3. Select Display from the system settings
  4. Scroll down and click on Graphics
  5. Toggle off the switch for Hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling
  6. Restart your computer
 
try changing your windows power plan

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFPMsq2YwKA


also turn off hardware gpu acceleration it can screw up with some games as well.

  1. Open Settings by pressing Win + I
  2. Select System in the left sidebar
  3. Select Display from the system settings
  4. Scroll down and click on Graphics
  5. Toggle off the switch for Hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling
  6. Restart your computer
I have changed power plan already it seems to High Performance, Hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling seems to be off also already.
 
I have also recently reinstalled Windows 11 from USB drive, i uninstalled my GPU driver with DDU i believe and installed it back.

I also ordered earlier a new 2TB NVMe to replace the current 512GB one i have and i got a new fan also coming so i will be installing that to use up the last case fan slot on the mobo, another thing i forgot to mention is that i don't have the stock CPU cooler on, i got a new one which fixed my CPU temps, they were kinda high while gaming with the stock cooler.

Not sure if those matter but going to mention anyway, and some other people who review this very same PC i have usually have larger PSUs than i do, mine is 380W platinum PSU, this one i was kinda afraid of causing this performance issues but i would imagine my PC would be crashing a lot and what not if the PSU was not supplying the system with enough power, also it is probably not possible to replace since its nonmodular... probably has weird cables too so i can't even swap to a aftermarket PSU, the MOBO as an example i think has 10 pins, i tried googling about it and people say in forums that they have never even heard or seen motherboards with that.
 
As far as your poor Time Spy results, well, since you have your RAM hamstrung to 2400MT/s instead of the 3200MT/s it should be, you should expect poorer performance. Also, for future reference, memory is not labeled as Mhz, it's labeled as MT/s which is mega transfers per second and is entirely different from megahertz per second. Some people will give you crap about not knowing that if you introduce that information into a conversation.

What CPU cooler are you using? Stock? Can you post some images of the inside of your case including any fan locations?

All of your temperatures actually look fine. Your VR VCC temperature can go as high as 105°C before you should start being concerned and 125° is generally considered "oh crap" and will likely cause shut downs or throttling.

Personally, since the temperatures look fine as far as this part goes I think enabling XMP if that board will allow it will help to improve your Time Spy scores greatly, and performance in general. A lot of things are very sensitive to memory performance.

What I think you SHOULD be concerned about is the fact that your PSU is either shot or not capable enough of running the hardware you have installed. Looking at the section titled "Lenovo 3741 (ITE IT8638E)" I can see that your 3.3v rail is showing 2.136v, your 5v rail is showing 3.333v and your 12v rail is showing 8.589v, so unless your board is misreporting those sensor values, and admittedly these aren't always exactly correct as compared to testing with a multimeter but they are never that far off, or HWinfo is for some reason reading wrong, you have a PSU problem and that could be affecting everything in the system. In fact, if those readings are correct I'm incredibly surprised it isn't shutting down or simply powering off.

I would take a look at the same PSU system voltages readings in HWmonitor, just to make sure that it is reading the same or at least close to the same. I suspect they are correct though because these type systems generally come with POS power supplies that are ok for very basic minimal hardware but not good enough at all for a system with upgraded memory kits, upgraded graphics card, etc. OR for gaming systems. It doesn't matter that it all came together, manufacturers do this all the time and the PSU is the primary area where they like to save money by including very cheap power supplies to improve their profit margins.

Problem here is that your system is likely proprietary form factor so replacing the PSU with something better may be difficult or impossible. That is the problem with people buying these kinds of systems not knowing they are getting into a situation where you'll have a proprietary form factor motherboard and PSU which makes upgrades of that type on those cases a real nightmare or not possible at all.

What is the model of the PSU as stated on the label on the side of the PSU? We need to determine whether it's a standard ATX PSU or some other form factor.
 
As far as your poor Time Spy results, well, since you have your RAM hamstrung to 2400MT/s instead of the 3200MT/s it should be, you should expect poorer performance. Also, for future reference, memory is not labeled as Mhz, it's labeled as MT/s which is mega transfers per second and is entirely different from megahertz per second. Some people will give you crap about not knowing that if you introduce that information into a conversation.

What CPU cooler are you using? Stock? Can you post some images of the inside of your case including any fan locations?

All of your temperatures actually look fine. Your VR VCC temperature can go as high as 105°C before you should start being concerned and 125° is generally considered "oh crap" and will likely cause shut downs or throttling.

Personally, since the temperatures look fine as far as this part goes I think enabling XMP if that board will allow it will help to improve your Time Spy scores greatly, and performance in general. A lot of things are very sensitive to memory performance.

What I think you SHOULD be concerned about is the fact that your PSU is either shot or not capable enough of running the hardware you have installed. Looking at the section titled "Lenovo 3741 (ITE IT8638E)" I can see that your 3.3v rail is showing 2.136v, your 5v rail is showing 3.333v and your 12v rail is showing 8.589v, so unless your board is misreporting those sensor values, and admittedly these aren't always exactly correct as compared to testing with a multimeter but they are never that far off, or HWinfo is for some reason reading wrong, you have a PSU problem and that could be affecting everything in the system. In fact, if those readings are correct I'm incredibly surprised it isn't shutting down or simply powering off.

I would take a look at the same PSU system voltages readings in HWmonitor, just to make sure that it is reading the same or at least close to the same. I suspect they are correct though because these type systems generally come with POS power supplies that are ok for very basic minimal hardware but not good enough at all for a system with upgraded memory kits, upgraded graphics card, etc. OR for gaming systems. It doesn't matter that it all came together, manufacturers do this all the time and the PSU is the primary area where they like to save money by including very cheap power supplies to improve their profit margins.

Problem here is that your system is likely proprietary form factor so replacing the PSU with something better may be difficult or impossible. That is the problem with people buying these kinds of systems not knowing they are getting into a situation where you'll have a proprietary form factor motherboard and PSU which makes upgrades of that type on those cases a real nightmare or not possible at all.

What is the model of the PSU as stated on the label on the side of the PSU? We need to determine whether it's a standard ATX PSU or some other form factor.
Sorry for the late reply, i was super tired while fighting for my life trying to install my new 2TB NVMe and a new Noctua fan to fill the last slot in my case which failed terribly, there was a weird rubber screw to hold the NVMe in place and i absolutely murdered my own fingers trying to pull it out, it was like super glued stuck together and the Noctua fan came with short rubber screws which did not hold the fan at all, the new SSD is great but i'm gonna have to battle with the fan again later and try to manage the cables in my case better.

So reason why i said MHz instead of Mt/s is because in my country all shops etc use that to describe the speed, i am from Finland.

I have a different cooler installed, it is called Blackstorm Luna 4PS-120MM ARGB, the problem with this cooler is that i can't really close the side panel of my PC anymore because it is like 1cm too high, this is of course my fault for not even thinking about how big the cooler was gonna be, if i really wanted to i could close the side panel since the case is cheap metal so the cooler will bend it but i don't want that to put any extra stress possibly on my CPU by pressing it down, i have the old stock intel cooler and i have been thinking of maybe attaching the Noctua fan to that so i can close my case and look for a 92mm CPU cooler, however the CPU temps are crazy low with this new cooler which was a problem in the past.

This board is not capable on enabling XMP, i have gone through BIOS so manytimes figuring it's gotta be hidden there somewhere but no, made sure to watch a review of my PC and they confirmed that it is not possible.

Also i do have the stock 16GB of DDR4 RAM that runs at 3200 Mt/s but performance wise i see maybe 5 or 10 FPS difference tops if i was to use them instead of my 32GB @ 2400 Mt/s.

The motherboard and PSU should indeed be unreplaceable/upgradeable, the motherboard takes a 10 pin cable that comes from the nonmodular PSU, i have heard of Lenovo 10 to 24 pin adapters but i will not take that risk to fry my board, rather just upgrade both the mobo and PSU sometime in the future if rest of the parts are good to go.

The PSU in Lenovos "As Built" page is called PWR_SUPPLY 100-240Vac, TFX380W 92% Platinum.

This is the PC, 2 fans in total at top left and bottom right, as i mentioned i was battling to fit a 3rd one to top right as a 2nd intake, the cables are messed up because i am in the middle of fixing it from whoever put this thing together, had to make room to top right for the fan and i can't really fix them unless i decide if i put the fan there or go back to intel stock cooler with that fan, the CPU cooler also ofc has the 120mm fan, rest should be stock 92mm fans.

EDIT: the fan at bottom right is smaller than 92mm, not sure how big it is but i took the fan out of my old intel stock cooler which seems the exact same as the one on the case and i ziptied it somehow top right of my case, my god those rubber screws are the worst thing in the entire world, my fingers are even more destroyed than yesterday when i tried to pull the rubber clip/screw from my NVMe heatsink, it seems like every part of this PC was ment to give you a hard time, almost want to email Lenovo and cuss them to the moon for doing this x)

vFxy455.jpeg
 
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So reason why i said MHz instead of Mt/s is because in my country all shops etc use that to describe the speed, i am from Finland.
No, the reason you said that is because a LOT of companies and people, in ALL countries, say Mhz, but it is wrong. Even some of the major PC hardware retailers don't do this right. It is not about what country you are in. It is about, Mhz and MT/s cannot be used interchangeably because they are not even remotely the same thing. One regards the frequency that a device or piece of hardware is running at and one is specifically used to denote the speed at which data moves within and between components.

Lot's of people call automobile engines "motors" too and that also is 100% wrong. Engines are not "motors". Motors are electrical machines. Engines, in vehicles anyhow, are machines that operate using internal combustion. It's really not even splitting hairs, it's just being right, because, well, just because a lot of people use certain terminology for something doesn't mean we have to if we don't want to seem like dumb heads like they do. So, now you know and add it to your growing cache of things you know about. :)
 
How does the stock memory run at 3200 MT/s if you can't enable XMP on that board. I don't think I've ever seen a board in the age of XMP, A-XMP, AMP or EXPO profiles where you could set the memory speed manually but did not have the ability to enable the XMP profile. Or, if the BIOS on that board is configured to Auto configure the memory and it is doing so with your stock memory then it should do so with your aftermarket memory as well unless the memory is simply not compatible with that board in which case it is defaulting to the 2400 MT/s speed because it's the only way it can run. Another reason to avoid prebuilt and OEM systems if you think you might ever need it to be more than what it is at the moment you bought it.

Ok, so your PSU is a TFX form factor power supply. There ARE a few options for upgrading there, but they are few, and they are generally not very good. Probably even less so where you are. At this point I think you might want to think about whether you want to even continue putting money into this because you're going to spend a bunch of money for nothing really and still be stuck with what you have. You already have a problem with the PSU as I showed you PLUS you have a low quality very weak 380w unit that isn't even remotely capable of handling an RTX 3060 that really needs to see a good 500-550w unit at minimum. Plus, it's an AcBel which is mostly only a supplier to OEM manufacturers and has a long history of producing not very reliable or great quality units. A few, but not many, and with only 380w which it's probably not even capable of doing, you are WAY underpowered even if it was a top notch brand and model.

You already have memory and a CPU. You already have your storage devices. You already have a graphics card. All you really need is a new PSU, motherboard and case. And that's not terribly expensive.

Then you'd have something you can configure however you want and will have no troubles with upgrading anytime you wish.

I realize you are in a different country where hardware is likely not as readily available as it is here and likely more expensive too, but just as an example you could do something like this and have a far better situation than what you're trying to work with now. Because you really don't want to spend money on a POS TFX form factor PSU that is still going to suck and won't be great quality because even the Silverstone 500w TFX unit isn't very good. Plus, I'm quite sure a decent mid tower ATX case would be SO MUCH easier to work in when you need to.

By the way, I love Finland. I'd love to visit there someday. One of the most popular guys on Youtube, Peter McKinnon, who I was fortunate enough to meet at a convention in Denver a few years back, has a very good friend there in Finland named Matti Haapoja. Seriously cool guy and would love to meet him someday too. Anyhow.

Even if this isn't something you can do now, it's something I think you SHOULD think about doing at some point in the not too distant future, as finances allow. Totally up to you but something along these lines, depending on your finances of course because you could certainly opt for better parts than these, would be a good investment.

PCPartPicker Part List

Motherboard: Gigabyte B760M GAMING DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard (€108.90 @ Datatronic)
Case: Deepcool MATREXX 55 MESH ATX Mid Tower Case (€52.90 @ Datatronic)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply (€84.90 @ Datatronic)
Total: €246.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-02-27 06:11 EET+0200
 
How does the stock memory run at 3200 MT/s if you can't enable XMP on that board. I don't think I've ever seen a board in the age of XMP, A-XMP, AMP or EXPO profiles where you could set the memory speed manually but did not have the ability to enable the XMP profile. Or, if the BIOS on that board is configured to Auto configure the memory and it is doing so with your stock memory then it should do so with your aftermarket memory as well unless the memory is simply not compatible with that board in which case it is defaulting to the 2400 MT/s speed because it's the only way it can run. Another reason to avoid prebuilt and OEM systems if you think you might ever need it to be more than what it is at the moment you bought it.

Ok, so your PSU is a TFX form factor power supply. There ARE a few options for upgrading there, but they are few, and they are generally not very good. Probably even less so where you are. At this point I think you might want to think about whether you want to even continue putting money into this because you're going to spend a bunch of money for nothing really and still be stuck with what you have. You already have a problem with the PSU as I showed you PLUS you have a low quality very weak 380w unit that isn't even remotely capable of handling an RTX 3060 that really needs to see a good 500-550w unit at minimum. Plus, it's an AcBel which is mostly only a supplier to OEM manufacturers and has a long history of producing not very reliable or great quality units. A few, but not many, and with only 380w which it's probably not even capable of doing, you are WAY underpowered even if it was a top notch brand and model.

You already have memory and a CPU. You already have your storage devices. You already have a graphics card. All you really need is a new PSU, motherboard and case. And that's not terribly expensive.

Then you'd have something you can configure however you want and will have no troubles with upgrading anytime you wish.

I realize you are in a different country where hardware is likely not as readily available as it is here and likely more expensive too, but just as an example you could do something like this and have a far better situation than what you're trying to work with now. Because you really don't want to spend money on a POS TFX form factor PSU that is still going to suck and won't be great quality because even the Silverstone 500w TFX unit isn't very good. Plus, I'm quite sure a decent mid tower ATX case would be SO MUCH easier to work in when you need to.

By the way, I love Finland. I'd love to visit there someday. One of the most popular guys on Youtube, Peter McKinnon, who I was fortunate enough to meet at a convention in Denver a few years back, has a very good friend there in Finland named Matti Haapoja. Seriously cool guy and would love to meet him someday too. Anyhow.

Even if this isn't something you can do now, it's something I think you SHOULD think about doing at some point in the not too distant future, as finances allow. Totally up to you but something along these lines, depending on your finances of course because you could certainly opt for better parts than these, would be a good investment.

PCPartPicker Part List

Motherboard: Gigabyte B760M GAMING DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard (€108.90 @ Datatronic)
Case: Deepcool MATREXX 55 MESH ATX Mid Tower Case (€52.90 @ Datatronic)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply (€84.90 @ Datatronic)
Total: €246.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-02-27 06:11 EET+0200
I was actually looking at new Motherboard, case & power supply combos when i ordered my new NVMe, that is also when i heard about the possibility of these components not being compatible with anything but some Lenovo boards, i know the CPU, RAM, NVMe etc can be moved but i can't find any info on my RTX 3060 (12GB), and when i ran the Time Spy test, underneath the GPU info it said Vendor: Lenovo which makes me question if i can move that to a new board, i think the 6+2 cable is doable but what about the slot where you plug the card itself on the Motherboard?

I suppose if the GPU is good to go i could buy like a new part each month but get some high quality stuff which i could use again in the future, would be amazing to get a case where you can hide the cables behind the motherboard or atleast have a bunch of space to work with, maybe even get proper cooling so some of my temps can stop giving me a heartattack when i open HWinfo, also a bigger PSU so it would be ready if i decide to swap my card oneday, prefer not to because it should perform still quite well.

We have a store here specifically for PC stuff and they do some "Upgrade Kit" sales constantly where you can grab good stuff for a little cheaper price, pretty much the only place to buy from since everything else is constantly out of stock or take weeks for them to send it to you.

I accidentally pressed a side button on my mouse and it left this page, the look on my face when i thought i have to start writing from the beginning, love this site for saving your unfinished comment even after you leave.

Also about this RAM i purchased it goes to 3200 MT/s with XMP enabled, without it stays at 2400 MT/s which once again i did not read about when i bought it so what 1 guy doing Youtube review/upgrade about my PC said that you need to get RAM with higher speeds so the default speed without XMP is at 3200 MT/s if memory serves well, i don't know how the stock RAM works at 3200 MT/s but thats what task manager has showed me, i guess if i grab a new board maybe i can kick it up to 3200 at last, then i can use this Lenovo board for what it was really ment for, as a replacement of a stone in stone skipping :)
 
Any modern graphics card can be moved to any modern motherboard. And by modern I mean, if it was sold in the last ten to fifteen years. There are a few exceptions with some specialized hardware here and there but yours is fine. It's totally compatible with any system you'd want to move it to. All graphics card slots on consumer motherboards, regardless of chipset, brand or model, are ALL PCIe x16 slots for the last at least 15 years. Prior to that, most boards were PCIe 2.0 and some of those older boards won't work with modern PCIe 3.0 and later graphics cards because they lack BIOS support but anything from 2010 to now should pretty much be compatible. Yours is 100% fine to move to another board.

Not stone skipping. Door stop. But seriously, the Lenovo has a place it just isn't as an enthusiast or gaming machine. But it could work fine as a backup system, or a home NAS or home server. Of course that would mean also needing to get a cheap CPU for it but bottom line, I think you'd be a lot happier and much better off by doing exactly as I and you have suggested. Trying to make what you have do what you want it to do is just going to be a continuous nightmare. It always is with OEM Lenovo, Dell, HP and other prebuilt OEM systems like this.