Question When I press the power button nothing at all happens PSU doesn’t turn on

May 1, 2019
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When I press my power button nothing at all happens, psu does not start/the psu fan does not start. I don’t know if it could be a becuase I don’t have a graphics card but my cpu has integrated graphics, I don’t have any way to test the ram or cpu but without those when the power button is pressed shouldn’t the psu still turn on. The standby light on my motherboard does work when psu is on standby... I called msi and they told me it is most likely a doa motherboard and to return it. This is a new pc build, help is much appreciated
 
May 1, 2019
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I have shorted the psu with the paper clip trick and the psu did turn on, I also tried to short the power button 2 pins with a screwdriver witch did not work, that leads me to believe it is the mobo cpu or ram or the fact that I don’t have a graphics card, I think the most obvious thing would be the motherboard because everything is brand new.
 
May 1, 2019
14
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I have shorted the psu with the paper clip trick and the psu did turn on, I also tried to short the power button 2 pins with a screwdriver witch did not work, that leads me to believe it is the mobo cpu or ram or the fact that I don’t have a graphics card, I think the most obvious thing would be the motherboard because everything is brand new.
 
May 1, 2019
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Ok that is good to know, my motherboard is a msi b450 pro do you know if that should at least turn fans on. I just want to make sure before I return it that is is the mobo, I have tried to reaseat the ram and that didn’t work so
 
May 2, 2019
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+ If you have single cables for hdd-led, reset, power-led, etc. leave all of them aside|unconnected and use only the power-switch, or check against the power-switch by using the reset-switch-cable connected to pwr-sw instead of the power-switch. Maybe a lip or lane of the event-connectors is rotated and does not comply to standards, or an led is corrupted, etc.

+ You wrote that the motherboard standby-light does in fact light-up. If that is true you have supplied basic power to the motherboard but you possibly have additional connectors to provide +5V and 3-state switching between motherboard and psu. This becomes essential in case the bios/firmware is defaulted to switch immediately into a deep-suspend-state, from which it can only be woke up, via the aditional connector, meaning the power-switch isn't hard-wired internally through to the psu, but instead intercepted by a full-working acpi-active-firmware. Check your motherboard manual.

+ Check if the motherboard provides jumpers to override the softsettings of the bios|firmware for selection and|or checking order which gpu should be initial - iGPU as part of the CPU, or on-board GPU or PCI-e add-on graphics-controller.

+ Try to start without drives attached, if it works hang on the drives power connectors, if that works actually connect the data-cables, too.

+ If you have not specifically chosen a USB-Port to connect your keyboard to, then lookout for a USB-Port+Ethernet-combo; this should be consisting of 2 or more USB-Ports stacked on each other on top of the motherboard, followed by the LAN-Port directly stacked above the before-described USB-ports. This is the main USB-Root-Hub and first in order that gets initialized and is privileged before any other. Keyboard to the USB-Port first from the bottom, meaning directly on the mobo, mouse or tablet into the usb-port above that. This guarantees basic PS/2-backwards compatible handling of the most minimal typing and pointing devices on a hardware-level. Generally the best choice to connect your keyboard and mouse to.

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... just adding some ideas to the soup.

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Hope it helps. Somehow. Thanks for reading.
 
May 1, 2019
14
2
15
+ If you have single cables for hdd-led, reset, power-led, etc. leave all of them aside|unconnected and use only the power-switch, or check against the power-switch by using the reset-switch-cable connected to pwr-sw instead of the power-switch. Maybe a lip or lane of the event-connectors is rotated and does not comply to standards, or an led is corrupted, etc.

+ You wrote that the motherboard standby-light does in fact light-up. If that is true you have supplied basic power to the motherboard but you possibly have additional connectors to provide +5V and 3-state switching between motherboard and psu. This becomes essential in case the bios/firmware is defaulted to switch immediately into a deep-suspend-state, from which it can only be woke up, via the aditional connector, meaning the power-switch isn't hard-wired internally through to the psu, but instead intercepted by a full-working acpi-active-firmware. Check your motherboard manual.

+ Check if the motherboard provides jumpers to override the softsettings of the bios|firmware for selection and|or checking order which gpu should be initial - iGPU as part of the CPU, or on-board GPU or PCI-e add-on graphics-controller.

+ Try to start without drives attached, if it works hang on the drives power connectors, if that works actually connect the data-cables, too.

+ If you have not specifically chosen a USB-Port to connect your keyboard to, then lookout for a USB-Port+Ethernet-combo; this should be consisting of 2 or more USB-Ports stacked on each other on top of the motherboard, followed by the LAN-Port directly stacked above the before-described USB-ports. This is the main USB-Root-Hub and first in order that gets initialized and is privileged before any other. Keyboard to the USB-Port first from the bottom, meaning directly on the mobo, mouse or tablet into the usb-port above that. This guarantees basic PS/2-backwards compatible handling of the most minimal typing and pointing devices on a hardware-level. Generally the best choice to connect your keyboard and mouse to.

---

... just adding some ideas to the soup.

---

Hope it helps. Somehow. Thanks for reading.
That is rough because I really can’t comprehend a lot of that I’m hoping that is is just a faulty motherboard, could it be that I don’t have a graphics card. My cpu has onboard graphics but... also the problem is that the pc does literally nothing, no fans spin the psu fan does not spin the only thing that works is the stand by light. I’m hoping I can just return the motherboard and get the same one and it will all work. Also if there is bad ram and cpu the psu should still start right?
 

InvalidError

Titan
Moderator
Paper Clip test only proves there is some power. Doesn't mean it's a viable PSU.
A PSU that passes the "paperclip test" should at least get you temporary fan spin until a protection somewhere trips and turns it off again when everything else is hooked up and working correctly. Nothing at all means the PSU isn't even being told to turn on. (Either that or there is a dead short on 12V which causes protections to trip before there is any visible sign of life.)
 
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May 1, 2019
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A PSU that passes the "paperclip test" should at least get you temporary fan spin until a protection somewhere trips and turns it off again when everything else is hooked up and working correctly. Nothing at all means the PSU isn't even being told to turn on. (Either that or there is a dead short on 12V which causes protections to trip before there is any visible sign of life.)
It is a brand new psu, wouldn’t it be more likely for it to be a problem with the motherboard. Than a psu that does pass the paper clip test that is brand new.

The mobo is a msi b450 pro
The psu is a bronze certified 550 volt
Both new purchased on amazon

There is zero fan spin on the case or psu and there never was, I’m thinking that the only explanation is the mobo because even if their was a bad cpu or ram it should still have some fan spin or turn on the psu for a second.
 
Last edited:
May 2, 2019
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That is rough because I really can’t comprehend a lot of that I’m hoping that is is just a faulty motherboard, could it be that I don’t have a graphics card. My cpu has onboard graphics but... also the problem is that the pc does literally nothing, no fans spin the psu fan does not spin the only thing that works is the stand by light. I’m hoping I can just return the motherboard and get the same one and it will all work. Also if there is bad ram and cpu the psu should still start right?

I hope you didn't got my post a s rough, but instead the situation as tough. My post wasn't meant to hover above or to depress you, if that was the case i am truly sorry.

Due to the fact that the mobo gets power, signaled by the standby-led, i would pinpoint it to the two possible core reasons, which can be both the show-stopper.

A) Everythings fine, but you are unlucky due to the default-settings of the motherboards BIOS/FirmWare, which doesn't accept what or how it is connected.

Which, again, can be literally anything from 'Nah, me Mobo do nah wanna work wit dat!' over a grumpy resistor|capacitor up to an accidentally broken MoBo, by for example trying to clamp the cooler on an unmounted motherboard aka Fender-Bender-Blues.

However in this case, really just write or call whomever you bought it from and ask for help or to make it simple for a replacement. But do it quickly, without any more worrying about it and if you like just check again with them, that the combination of parts you have, can actually work together. Sometimes it is a simple Revision that can not handle the specific requirements while an earlier or later manufactured revision of the motherboard actually can handle that combo well.

B) Try mounting a graphics card. You can get Nvidia 730 for i think 15 or 20 bucks and they are known to work - somehow - sometimes good - sometimes not at all, depending on what other devices participate in your custom setup. Nonetheless you can return it immediately for checkout, if it also doesn't work; So no financial loss there and another possibilty checked on your todo-list to tackle the problem. - If it works, just use it to wander into the BIOS/FirmWare and switch the order and allowance for the different GPU-Types and probe if you can find a combination that works without the 730. Maybe you can reach your goal easily. - If not, well forget about it, return it. And after that return the motherboard for replacement or in exchange with another one, maybe they can give you a reasonable recommendation what would be a better fit.

Long story short: Don't try to think it through by force. Everyone has their own personal experience and from that the knowledge one must base its assumptions, requirements and abilities on.

That is totally okay and just .. human.

So, one last time just to ease your pain:

If you want to take another step in your adventure, test-buy the mentioned Nvidia 730. If it works use it to work on your original problem. If you find a solution, perfect! And then return the 730. If it does not work, well what da frack? Return the 730. And after that, return the motherboard for replacement, either by an identical one with possibly another Revision or let it be replaced by another motherboard with similar specs, but recommended by the tech- or sales- -personal, whomever may have a qualifying idea.

Maybe they have a techie that is willed to check your setup. Just ask for it, if they might do that for you, If so, pack your parts seperately and clean and bring 'em with you, so they can have a look and do the right thing - replace it with a working part.

Don't worry. Be calm and cool. And stay nice.

Do not hesitate to ask for assistance at no-cost. As long as you ask and not demand it, everythings fine, right?

---

P.s.: One other thing came to mind:

Check if maybe the connection to the cooling prop/vent is somehow faulty.

In the moment you switch the PSU on (after you left the mobo a minute long at least unpowered), watch only the cooling prop | vent, if it at least makes a minimal move when power is applied.

If it does, i would assume it is just Option A alias a not-so-sane-default regarding the iGPU on-chip. So temporarily install a pci-e graphics-card like the mentioned 730, may be already a solution.

---

Hope it helps. A bit more, this time ... Thanks for reading?
 
Last edited:
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May 1, 2019
14
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I hope you didn't got my post a s rough, but instead the situation as tough. My post wasn't meant to hover above or to depress you, if that was the case i am truly sorry.

Due to the fact that the mobo gets power, signaled by the standby-led, i would pinpoint it to the two possible core reasons, which can be both the show-stopper.

A) Everythings fine, but you are unlucky due to the default-settings of the motherboards BIOS/FirmWare, which doesn't accept what or how it is connected.

Which, again, can be literally anything from 'Nah, me Mobo do nah wanna work wit dat!' over a grumpy resistor|capacitor up to an accidentally broken MoBo, by for example trying to clamp the cooler on an unmounted motherboard aka Fender-Bender-Blues.

However in this case, really just write or call whomever you bought it from and ask for help or to make it simple for a replacement. But do it quickly, without any more worrying about it and if you like just check again with them, that the combination of parts you have, can actually work together. Sometimes it is a simple Revision that can not handle the specific requirements while an earlier or later manufactured revision of the motherboard actually can handle that combo well.

B) Try mounting a graphics card. You can get Nvidia 730 for i think 15 or 20 bucks and they are known to work - somehow - sometimes good - sometimes not at all, depending on what other devices participate in your custom setup. Nonetheless you can return it immediately for checkout, if it also doesn't work; So no financial loss there and another possibilty checked on your todo-list to tackle the problem. - If it works, just use it to wander into the BIOS/FirmWare and switch the order and allowance for the different GPU-Types and probe if you can find a combination that works without the 730. Maybe you can reach your goal easily. - If not, well forget about it, return it. And after that return the motherboard for replacement or in exchange with another one, maybe they can give you a reasonable recommendation what would be a better fit.

Long story short: Don't try to think it through by force. Everyone has their own personal experience and from that the knowledge one must base its assumptions, requirements and abilities on.

That is totally okay and just .. human.

So, one last time just to ease your pain:

If you want to take another step in your adventure, test-buy the mentioned Nvidia 730. If it works use it to work on your original problem. If you find a solution, perfect! And then return the 730. If it does not work, well what da frack? Return the 730. And after that, return the motherboard for replacement, either by an identical one with possibly another Revision or let it be replaced by another motherboard with similar specs, but recommended by the tech- or sales- -personal, whomever may have a qualifying idea.

Maybe they have a techie that is willed to check your setup. Just ask for it, if they might do that for you, If so, pack your parts seperately and clean and bring 'em with you, so they can have a look and do the right thing - replace it with a working part.

Don't worry. Be calm and cool. And stay nice.

Do not hesitate to ask for assistance at no-cost. As long as you ask and not demand it, everythings fine, right?

---

P.s.: One other thing came to mind: check if maybe the connection is somehow faulty and the moment you switch the PSU on after you left the mobo a minute long at least unpowered, watch only the cooling prop | vent, if it at least makes a minimal move when power is applied. If it does i would assume it is just Option A aka a not-so-sane-default regarding the iGPU on-chip.

---

Hope it helps. A bit more, this time ... Thanks for reading?
Funny that you say trying to clamp the cooler to an unmounted motherboard, I did install the cpu cooler while the motherboard was not mounted into the case. Could that have broken the mobo.
 
May 2, 2019
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Also if there is bad ram and cpu the psu should still start right?

Sorry, overlooked that ..

No, the PSU will be blocked as a safety measure. So, if either RAM or CPU is faulty the PSU won't power up. But a enlightened standby-led is also not common if the CPU is faulty. So chances would be, that maybe the RAM could be faulty. I assume the CPU is okay. And asides that, well you have seen i tried clear it up with another lengthy reply.

---

Hope it helps. Thanks for reading.
 
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May 1, 2019
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Sorry, overlooked that ..

No, the PSU will be blocked as a safety measure. So, if either RAM or CPU is faulty the PSU won't power up. But a enlightened standby-led is also not common if the CPU is faulty. So chances would be, that maybe the RAM could be faulty. I assume the CPU is okay. And asides that, well you have seen i tried clear it up with another lengthy reply.

---

Hope it helps. Thanks for reading.
Ok well I’m going to start by returning and replacing the mobo probably with the same on. If that still doesn’t work then I will test the ram on a friends computer, after that if it wasn’t the ram or mobo I can assume it is iether the psu or cpu probably but a psu tester if it’s not the psu then I’ll return the cpu and get a new one but I don’t see how it would be the cpu. I think it must be the mobo tbh
 
May 2, 2019
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8
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Funny that you say trying to clamp the cooler to an unmounted motherboard, I did install the cpu cooler while the motherboard was not mounted into the case. Could that have broken the mobo.

Yeah, i would assume that's the case. Just to visualize what actually happens the moment you clamp the cooler: You actually apply the equivalent of 1.5 tons per square-inch, that is estimated the force a pitbull or an alligator forces on what- or whom- -ever it bites. In short - deadly - in case of the motherboard - most often .. deadly.

:)

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P.s.: What do you think how i was forced to learn what actually happens and why? - Yes. Right. I clamped and bent, clamped and bent, clamped and bent - once in a while - too often atually to stay happy with the cosequences. - So yeah, we all have to learn by practicing and just dawdling around. Sometimes it stick for the rest of your life ...