[SOLVED] Whoops--got the 95W CPU instead of the 65W

[gn842a]

Well I've been building a new computer and am currently stalled by the gods of UPS. I selected the Ryzen 5 2600Z. Now I had intended to buy the Ryzen 5 2600. But when I saw the Z could be pushed a bit more, I decided to get that.

The thing is I'm not into overclocking. I was just of the mind that a chip designed for overclocking might be under less load and hence more durable than the regular chip. But when I actually pushed the button on Newegg I failed to notice that that the 2600 is 95W. I probably would not have gotten it had that made its way into my consciousness. My general thinking is that hotter implies more component wear and lowered longevity.

Then it occurred to me that since I am not a gamer that I might not actually be using the chip at 95W most of the time. So my question is: Does 95W mean an invariable draw of 95W, like the old tungsten light bulbs that had one and only one output measured in watts, or is the power draw more conditional on demand, like a dimmable switch in the living room, so that your 100 watt bulbs may actually be putting out only 50 or 60? It would be of some comfort to know that the I'm not destined to draw 95W for the thousands of hours I hope this build will last.

Greg N

 

[gn842a]

Thanks for all the comments about the AI Suite software. As on my previous mobo there was a division of views, but I did find that last time around the suite (whatever it was called) got me pretty bogged down. I think I'll take a look at the UEFI once all the fans are installed (that is when the Noctua base comes and I can finish the build). --GN

 

[gn842a]

Well for what it's worth--perhaps this is too crude a technique--I took a digital clamp meter, which measures current one way, and split an extension cord into two separate halves, so I could put the ring around one. Then I plugged the whole PC in and booted it up.

This was on my old build, it seemed to put out total, including fans, about 60 to 75 watts. I was just interested in figuring out how much energy it takes to run a PC. I believe this is consistent with figures you get just googling around.

I'll check out my new build that way too. But it's not complete yet.

Greg N

 

[Darkbreeze]

ONE, I've never seen ANY Noctua fan be louder than the fan that came on ANY stock cooler, under any conditions, assuming equal rates of airflow at whatever RPM is required to achieve that airflow.

Two, if as Cryoburner mentioned the AMD TDP figures ARE in fact assuming full boost, that's even less of a problem you might potentially encounter, not that you would have anyhow.

Three, if you are REALLY worried about how much power you are pulling from the socket, just get one of these. They work fantastic and they aren't expensive. Plus you can use them for pretty much ANYTHING that plugs into the wall and can figure power changes for any given component by doing before and after measurements.

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Ele...rds=killawatt&qid=1562478082&s=gateway&sr=8-3

 

[gn842a]

ONE, I've never seen ANY Noctua fan be louder than the fan that came on ANY stock cooler, under any conditions, assuming equal rates of airflow at whatever RPM is required to achieve that airflow.

Two, if as Cryoburner mentioned the AMD TDP figures ARE in fact assuming full boost, that's even less of a problem you might potentially encounter, not that you would have anyhow.

Three, if you are REALLY worried about how much power you are pulling from the socket, just get one of these. They work fantastic and they aren't expensive. Plus you can use them for pretty much ANYTHING that plugs into the wall and can figure power changes for any given component by doing before and after measurements.

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Ele...rds=killawatt&qid=1562478082&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Actually I have been pondering the quietness of my current non-Noctua build. To to put everything together on the new build I had to pull everything out of the case and thenI had to pull off the blue painters tape with which I masked off all the open holes in the case: the vent at the bottom which is only partly covered by the psu; the slots in the back, the unused DVD slots in the front, etc. So the case is now very open in comparison to the way it has been for the past few years, when the open spots were masked off to increase the efficiency and speed flow of the fans.

So I won't really have apples to apples comparison between OEM and Noctua till I have installed the rest of the things that need installing, sealed up the holes, and had a listen. If it is the holes that help provide ultra quiet performance, I may have to consider whether the cooling performance is compromised and if so whether open holes are desirable as a way of reducing fan noise.

regards
Greg N

 

[Darkbreeze]

Open holes mean more noise. That goes for every case, period. That is why cases like the Fractal Design Define series have moduvent covers for unused fan locations in the top of the unit and noise blocking padding on the inside of the side panels on all panels that aren't windowed. Windowed models are not AS quiet because they have padded panel only on the backside.

I assure you, I have about twenty five different fans on my cooling shelf in my test area. None of them, regardless of brand, as as quiet as the Noctua models at an equivalent RPM or CFM. Only when a fan is running at a slower rate of speed, which generally means a lower RPM and lower CFM, can brands like BeQuiet beat out Noctua in terms of sound performance. I have yet to see any fan do it.

 

[gn842a]

Open holes mean more noise. That goes for every case, period. That is why cases like the Fractal Design Define series have moduvent covers for unused fan locations in the top of the unit and noise blocking padding on the inside of the side panels on all panels that aren't windowed. Windowed models are not AS quiet because they have padded panel only on the backside.

I assure you, I have about twenty five different fans on my cooling shelf in my test area. None of them, regardless of brand, as as quiet as the Noctua models at an equivalent RPM or CFM. Only when a fan is running at a slower rate of speed, which generally means a lower RPM and lower CFM, can brands like BeQuiet beat out Noctua in terms of sound performance. I have yet to see any fan do it.

I'm perfectly willing to believe you. It means that my former self from 2013 did a good thing when he researched quiet fans and settled on a Noctua.

Right now this box is running more quietly. However, I can't refer to any single component as the cause, not logically, anyhow. Too many things have changed. The CPU fan is different (but really, it's quite nice, it comes with the Ryzen 5 2600X which I understand is a better fan than the 2600). It's extremely quiet even when you're sitting in front of the case with the side off.

But I also replaced the phantek on the intake. So maybe what I'm not hearing is the noise from the former phantek.

If Noctua makes 200 mmm fans maybe I should be looking at those too. I wouldn't mind putting Noctua throughout.

thanks,
Greg N

 

[Darkbreeze]

PCPartPicker Part List

Case Fan: Noctua - NF-A20 PWM 86.46 CFM 200 mm Fan ($29.95 @ Amazon)
Total: $29.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-08 20:18 EDT-0400

Also, while that CPU cooler might seem quiet, I assure you that there are some coolers in the fifty dollar range that have much better performance AND are about 10db quieter at full speed.

 

[gn842a]

PCPartPicker Part List

Case Fan: Noctua - NF-A20 PWM 86.46 CFM 200 mm Fan ($29.95 @ Amazon)
Total: $29.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-08 20:18 EDT-0400

Also, while that CPU cooler might seem quiet, I assure you that there are some coolers in the fifty dollar range that have much better performance AND are about 10db quieter at full speed.

Yes well my CPU fan is the Noctua NH-U12S with the NF-F12 120mm fan which I bought in early 2014. It was around $60 or $65 IIRC. Today the hardware came for the AM4 socket so I took a deep breath and went ahead and installed it. I've done the job before but I was squeamish about whether there was room for the RAM. (There was) Technically the adapter Noctua provided did not cover my design but if you pondered it there was a solution. So anyhow the Noctua is installed.

The whole build is quieter I'm wondering if it is the replacement of the intake fan or perhaps the use of a Seasonic instead of a Thermaltake psu. Or all of the above.

I would be interested in a recommendation for the best third party desktop app to monitor all these temperatures (cpu, gpu, drives....whatever there is to be monitored).

I still think the Noctua colors are ugly. That's after living with it for five years. Thanks for the tip on the NF-A20.

thanks,
Greg N

 

[Darkbreeze]

Your previous post said you had a stock cooler. ¯\(ツ)/¯

I missed the part about not having the bracket for your AM4 setup.

Most of these Noctua products are available in black versions now. Look at the Chromax models.

All of the Chromax.black.swap and Industrial iPPC models are black. Which is what I have in my system. Six of the NF-A14 chromax.black.swap (Two of which are on the cooler, which is a NH-U14S) plus one NF-A14 industrial iPPC 2000rpm.

They are not ugly and they are just as quiet with the same performance.

The NF-F12 is available in black as well.

 

[gn842a]

Your previous post said you had a stock cooler. ¯\(ツ)/¯

I missed the part about not having the bracket for your AM4 setup.

Most of these Noctua products are available in black versions now. Look at the Chromax models.

All of the Chromax.black.swap and Industrial iPPC models are black. Which is what I have in my system. Six of the NF-A14 chromax.black.swap (Two of which are on the cooler, which is a NH-U14S) plus one NF-A14 industrial iPPC 2000rpm.

They are not ugly and they are just as quiet with the same performance.

The NF-F12 is available in black as well.

The details here matter. I got the build up and running ten days ago but the parts have been dribbling in. I had to order the special Noctua kit to install on the mobo in order to take my old Noctua and re-use it. So during the time that this thread has been running, up until yesterday, I have in fact been using the stock 2600x cooler, which I'm told is different from the 2600 stock. In any event I was surprised by the OEM. It was much better than some old stock coolers I remember from the old days. The old days are defined as before I bought the Noctua 5 1/2 years ago. So anyhow after debating the merits of the OEM top down vs my Noctua side-blowing I just decided to stick with the unit that had a good track record and reinstalled it.

But the OEM unit is very good, and I've seen a few comments here and there from people recommending that users save money and stick to the OEM.

Those colors look nice. Noctua isn't doing a good job of getting the word out with Newegg IMO. Anyhow I wouldn't hesitate to buy Noctua when the need arises. I buy 90% of my computer kit from Newegg so when I didn't find the 200 mm there I picked something else. Which I regret, but I'll wait till stuff gets annoying rather than pull it all apart and put in new fans. thx, Greg N