Question Why is my 3060ti running so bad

[DMTee]

GPU:
MSI Ventus GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8GB GDDR6 PCI Express 4.0 Video Card RTX 3060 Ti VENTUS 2X 8G OCV1 LHR
CPU:
AMD Ryzen 7 3rd Gen - RYZEN 7 3700X Matisse (Zen 2) 8-Core 3.6 GHz (4.4 GHz Max Boost) Socket AM4 65W 100-100000071BOX Desktop Processor
PSU:
Rosewill PMG Series, PMG1200, 1200W Fully Modular Power Supply, 80 PLUS GOLD Certified, Low Noise, Single +12V Rail, SLI & CrossFire Ready, Black
MMO:
ASUS TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS (Wi-Fi) AMD AM4 (3rd Gen Ryzen) Micro ATX Gaming Motherboard (PCIe 4.0, 2.5Gb LAN, BIOS FlashBack, HDMI 2.1, USB 3.2 Gen 2, Addressable Gen 2 RGB Header and AURA Sync)
RAM:
(theres 4 sticks all clocked at 3200) G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C16D-16GVKB

I just upgraded from a 600w psu and a 2060 rtx and the performance I am getting is worse than before I upgraded, gta 5 at 1080p high settings runs like dog water, days gone is at an unplayable 28 fps, Ghost runner works "good" only a quarter of the time. I already used DDU to make sure I dont have conflicting drivers for my gpu and I cant make DOCP work without my MMO giving me the four beeps of death.
also even running Firefox my gpu usage in task manager shows it fluctuating between 20% to 99% usage.

Please help me before I throw my entire PC into the ocean.

 

[Flayed]

I'm trying anything here at this point bud lol. If you have a good idea or tip then it is welcomed. I am determined to make this run at its expected peek performance. (just dont tell me to take it into a shop)

Do you have the latestmotherboard bios installed and chipset drivers from AMD?

 

[DMTee]

Do you have the latestmotherboard bios installed and chipset drivers from AMD?

yessir, I have all updated bios and drivers, I'm currently thinking either davidM is onto something or even it could be a faulty PSU ( currently in another thread with this guy that thinks it could be the culprit)

 

[DavidM012]

I'd cancel that order for the xpg - you got a pci-e 3 nvme when the samsung 980 pro is pci-e 4.0. OK so you can only get 500gb for a similar price on newegg ($99) but, if peak performance is what you want, your board supports pci-e 4.0.

Now I think of it I thought I saw something earlier in the day on reddit about some asus tuf boards not working well with a 3000 series but I looked again and it says your mobo is ok - I was struggling with winders at the time which was a waste of time 'cos all I needed in the end was a 4kb file from thunderbird to save meh passwords. First Edge stopped working and I tried everything to fix that, then I just installed samsung magician and updated the firmware of meh drive and windows totally caved in.

So well with that experience I think you should back up any important data before you switch to an n.v.m.e drive. Like your emails & docs anyway I tried everything to fix windows, copied partitions several times, tried to run setup repair, tried to copy files over each other windows doesn't have it any more it's all so buttoned up with security and authentications that you can't do anything any more, just have to reinstall.

I think, try to back up docs & emails on a fat32 usb drive so windows doesn't get all knarly about ntfs permissions. Practically you can't delete any system files or try to change much because it's all read only but you don't need to mess with it if you can export your data to some kind of backup medium.

In the end any way n.v.m.e is the difference between night and day compared to sata 3.

Whether to go lean and fast or broad and heavy - well you can have more games on a 1 terabyte drive, sure, and they are plenty big and eat up disks fast.

However if you have fast internet you don't have to store much data offline but the drive situation is something you can get in order as time goes on. I'd say start with the 500gb pci-e 4.0 980 pro and later on address your storage needs when your current batch of disks go on the fritz.

Pci-e 5.0 is only around the corner, all you need is some patience to capitalize on the looming price crunch.

 

[DMTee]

I'd cancel that order for the xpg - you got a pci-e 3 nvme when the samsung 980 pro is pci-e 4.0. OK so you can only get 500gb for a similar price on newegg ($99) but, if peak performance is what you want, your board supports pci-e 4.0.

Now I think of it I thought I saw something earlier in the day on reddit about some asus tuf boards not working well with a 3000 series but I looked again and it says your mobo is ok - I was struggling with winders at the time which was a waste of time 'cos all I needed in the end was a 4kb file from thunderbird to save meh passwords. First Edge stopped working and I tried everything to fix that, then I just installed samsung magician and updated the firmware of meh drive and windows totally caved in.

So well with that experience I think you should back up any important data before you switch to an n.v.m.e drive. Like your emails & docs anyway I tried everything to fix windows, copied partitions several times, tried to run setup repair, tried to copy files over each other windows doesn't have it any more it's all so buttoned up with security and authentications that you can't do anything any more, just have to reinstall.

I think, try to back up docs & emails on a fat32 usb drive so windows doesn't get all knarly about ntfs permissions. Practically you can't delete any system files or try to change much because it's all read only but you don't need to mess with it if you can export your data to some kind of backup medium.

In the end any way n.v.m.e is the difference between night and day compared to sata 3.

Whether to go lean and fast or broad and heavy - well you can have more games on a 1 terabyte drive, sure, and they are plenty big and eat up disks fast.

However if you have fast internet you don't have to store much data offline but the drive situation is something you can get in order as time goes on. I'd say start with the 500gb pci-e 4.0 980 pro and later on address your storage needs when your current batch of disks go on the fritz.

Pci-e 5.0 is only around the corner, all you need is some patience to capitalize on the looming price crunch.

Thank you my dude, I really do appreciate how active you've been in trying to help. Just canceled the order and going for a NVME that supports PCIe 4.0

 

[DavidM012]

Your Power supply is at the low end of Tier C of the psu tier list which is so-so but the wattage is more than adequate for a 3060ti: You kind of went lower quality but double wattage - this chart reckons you'd be ok on 575w with it so a tier b 750w or tier A 650w or a tier c 850w should be fine.

No probs - This gen. of hardware (ddr4 era) is a lot more finickity than the previous ddr3 era where you could pretty much throw anything together and it would work.

Nowadays it's more about how conservative and risk averse you'd prefer to be.

 

[DMTee]

Your Power supply is at the low end of Tier C of the psu tier list which is so-so but the wattage is more than adequate for a 3060ti: You kind of went lower quality but double wattage - this chart reckons you'd be ok on 575w with it so a tier b 750w or tier A 650w or a tier c 850w should be fine.

No probs - This gen. of hardware (ddr4 era) is a lot more finickity than the previous ddr3 era where you could pretty much throw anything together and it would work.

Nowadays it's more about how conservative and risk averse you'd prefer to be.

I built alot of ddr3 era computers and only 3 or 4 ddr4 era computers, I'm still sort of trying to get used to the whole change lol (finally getting enough money to get back into computers again)

 

[DMTee]

just swapped my PSU for my old one (just to see if somehow that was the problem) and still having the same issue, I'm hoping somehow new ram and an NVME drive fixes it. Don't know if somehow one drive could carry a virus on it or not but it's connected the last few times I reformatted, don't think that's the issue though. Also before I upgraded the GPU, PSU, and RAM, there was definitely no malware on it.
Package comes in five days or so, gonna try some more tweaks till then, if anyone has any advice or tips let me know, here's a small list of current fixes I've already tried.

Dual channel DOCP is activated, DWS is set to normal priority, NVIDIA game overcast is off, power settings is set to high performance (w screen saver turned off), GPU rendering and high performance is active in NVIDIA control panel, I've already updated bios and all possible drives, I've used DDU to ensure there's no old drives conflicting with the current ones, and I have already rebooted and reformatted so many times now I cant keep count, also I only have one current active drive and its the Samsung 250gb listed in any of the userbenchmark test links ( the others are still plugged in though because I was too lazy to unplug.)

If ANYONE has advice/tips/fixes let me know

 

[DavidM012]

can't remember exactly where I saw that article about asus boards and 3000 series (or was it 4000 series?) and I reformatted a couple of times and there's too much data and a search doesn't reveal anything. Sometimes you just have to bookmark articles of interest.

You didn't say what cooler are you using on your cpu? Try hwmonitor and hwinfo to monitor temps. Does your case have good air flow and a few fans in it?

 

[kerberos_20]

can't remember exactly where I saw that article about asus boards and 3000 series (or was it 4000 series?) and I reformatted a couple of times and there's too much data and a search doesn't reveal anything. Sometimes you just have to bookmark articles of interest.

rtx 4090 runs in pcie3 on asus...saw it on reddit aswell

 

[RodroX]

In BIOS, is the PCIE slot 1 x16 (the top one on the motherboard, closed to the CPU where your GPU should be installed) set to 4.0 or Auto?

When was the last time you installed Windows?

Any chance you are using SATA 2.0 cables (instead of 3.0) for one of the 1TB WD drives and for the WD Green SSD ?

Can you post a new CPU-Z image of the memory tab?

 

[Joakim Agren]

If you get high idle usage even on a fresh install then perhaps you have a hardware or driver issue. What USB equipment have you hooked up to the system? Perhaps the RGB (if you have that) is giving you issues.

 

[Roland Of Gilead]

If you are using UBS as some kind of measure for your GPU, that's not a great idea.

The likely reason your GPU is registering as 0 in UBM is because you must be running an overlay. If you have MSI afterburner OSD or steam overlay running, switch them off. Then run UBM again.

Your GPU should then register in UBM with a more accurate result.