Question Wireless Mouse Jitters ?

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Omnytrix

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Jul 19, 2013
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Running a PowerSpec PC with:

ASRock a520m/ac motherboard
AMD Ryzen 5600G
16 GB of Oloy Owl 3200 DDR4 RAM
Intel 9260 wireless card
WD Black SN750 500GB SSD
PowerSpec 400w power supply
Lian Li case.

Ever since I got the computer I’ve had issues with it. If you try to run a usb flash drive and a wireless mouse single at the same time in the front usb 3.0 ports, the mouse freezes. No matter what port I use on the back or the front, the mouse stutters across the screen. I’ve updated the bios, disabled the fTPM, tried windows 10 and 11. Wired mouse works just fine. What am I missing here?
 
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Omnytrix said:
I’ve tried multiple mice, all of them have the same issue except the wired one. No I don’t hear the disconnect sound either.
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Is there anything in the room with you that could be interfering with the wireless mouse? Like a third party device such as a phone. This is a rare case but is still possible. Go into BIOS and enable legacy USB support in case you have it off.
 
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EyyMunchian said:
Is there anything in the room with you that could be interfering with the wireless mouse? Like a third party device such as a phone. This is a rare case but is still possible. Go into BIOS and enable legacy USB support in case you have it off.
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I’ve got my iPhone and iPad 20 feet away on their chargers. No house phone. How do I enable legacy USB support in my bios?
 
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How old is the computer?

How old is that PowerSpec 400w power supply ? Is that PSU original to the computer, a new replacement, refurbished, used?

= = = =

Try using a USB extension cable to raise the wireless mouse dongle up and away from the case. Move the dongle's location about to determine if mouse performance improves or otherwise changes. Experiment with the various USB ports and with/without the USB flash drive.
 
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Ralston18 said:
How old is the computer?

How old is that PowerSpec 400w power supply ? Is that PSU original to the computer, a new replacement, refurbished, used?

= = = =

Try using a USB extension cable to raise the wireless mouse dongle up and away from the case. Move the dongle's location about to determine if mouse performance improves or otherwise changes. Experiment with the various USB ports and with/without the USB flash drive.
Click to expand...
Computer is about a month old, PSU came with the computer. I can try moving the receiver to the usb 3.0 hub attached to my backup drive, it’s about a foot away from the computer. It’s only the front ports that stop working if you try to use a mouse receiver and a flash drive at the same time. 2 flash drives, a backup drive, a webcam, etc all work in either port. It’s only when you use a mouse receiver in one port and a flash drive in the other that the mouse stops working. All the back ports work with the mouse but have varying degrees of lag and jitter.
 
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Not the Seagate drive. The USB hub itself.

(However, it is good that the drive has its' own power versus using system/USB power.)

As for the PSU it is a bit premature to determine if a higher wattage PSU is necessary. 400 Watts is likely a bit low especially if the PSU is aging and has a history of heavy gaming use.

Start here:

Best Power Supplies of 2022 - Top PSUs for Gaming PCs | Tom's Hardware (tomshardware.com)

Not with the immediate intent to purchase a new PSU. Just run some of the calculators to determine if 400 watts is sufficient. Even if so, again, an older PSU may not be able to keep up with the demanded power requirements.

So if a replacement PSU is warranted then a 600 watt PSU with a higher rating would be my suggestion.

If possible, borrow another known working PSU to test in your system. Remember do not mix and match power cables if modular.
 
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Ralston18 said:
Not the Seagate drive. The USB hub itself.

(However, it is good that the drive has its' own power versus using system/USB power.)

As for the PSU it is a bit premature to determine if a higher wattage PSU is necessary. 400 Watts is likely a bit low especially if the PSU is aging and has a history of heavy gaming use.

Start here:

Best Power Supplies of 2022 - Top PSUs for Gaming PCs | Tom's Hardware (tomshardware.com)

Not with the immediate intent to purchase a new PSU. Just run some of the calculators to determine if 400 watts is sufficient. Even if so, again, an older PSU may not be able to keep up with the demanded power requirements.

So if a replacement PSU is warranted then a 600 watt PSU with a higher rating would be my suggestion.

If possible, borrow another known working PSU to test in your system. Remember do not mix and match power cables if modular.
Click to expand...
I don’t game on it, the PSU came with the computer and is less than a month old. The usb 3 hub is attached to the seagate backup drive. All I’m running is a 27inch 4K monitor, 2 nvme drives, and 2 fans.
 
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Try with only the wireless mouse connected. Do the freezes occur?

After testing that open Reliability History and Event Viewer.

Look for any error codes, warnings, or even informational events that occurred just before or at the time of the freezes.

Start with Reliability History. The time line format may help find some pattern of events.
 
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Ralston18 said:
Try with only the wireless mouse connected. Do the freezes occur?

After testing that open Reliability History and Event Viewer.

Look for any error codes, warnings, or even informational events that occurred just before or at the time of the freezes.

Start with Reliability History. The time line format may help find some pattern of events.
Click to expand...
Nothing in reliability history, what do I click on in event viewer
And it lags when the drive is unplugged and plugged in
 
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Event Viewer is not quite as user friendly.

Just click through the various logs and look for errors and warnings.

Sometimes the system can take a bit of time to present any given log so be sure allow some time for the log entries (if any) to appear.

Really full logs can be cleared and checked again a few days later. No need to dig through months or years old entries.

The drive related lag is another indication of a faltering or failing PSU.

Two other troubleshooting tools are Task Manager and Resource Monitor. Use both but only one at a time.

Launch one or the other and simply observe system performance when you move the mouse or plug/unplug the drive.

You mentioned that the computer is only 1 month old - still under warranty?

(We do not want to do anything that may void warranty.)

Also are you being sure to backup all important data at least 2 x to locations away from computer Do remember to verify that backups are recoverable and readable.
 
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Ralston18 said:
Event Viewer is not quite as user friendly.

Just click through the various logs and look for errors and warnings.

Sometimes the system can take a bit of time to present any given log so be sure allow some time for the log entries (if any) to appear.

Really full logs can be cleared and checked again a few days later. No need to dig through months or years old entries.

The drive related lag is another indication of a faltering or failing PSU.

Two other troubleshooting tools are Task Manager and Resource Monitor. Use both but only one at a time.

Launch one or the other and simply observe system performance when you move the mouse or plug/unplug the drive.

You mentioned that the computer is only 1 month old - still under warranty?

(We do not want to do anything that may void warranty.)

Also are you being sure to backup all important data at least 2 x to locations away from computer Do remember to verify that backups are recoverable and readable.
Click to expand...
The mouse lags both when the drive is plugged and and when it is not plugged in.
Oddly enough, the lag mostly vanishes when I plug the mouse dongle into the USB hub attached to my backup drive. Perhaps my wireless card is interfering with the mouse dongle?
 
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Ralston18 said:
Yes. You can test a PSU to some extent.

You need a multi-meter and need to know how to use it. Or know someone who does.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Not a full test because the PSU is not under load. However, any voltages out of tolerance are a likely sign that the PSU is starting to falter and fail.
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Could I achieve the same result simply buying a new one, seeing if the problem goes away, and if it doesn’t, return the new one?
 
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Not really a good option - unethical overall and even if that Power Save 400 watt PSU proves to be okay - it is still on the low end of the wattage range.

PSU may not be able to fulfill USB power demands. But there may indeed be some other issues involved.

That said, if the computer and the PSU are only a month old then there should be some warranty - is that correct?

If so, make a warranty claim. Doing "too much" might result in a voided warranty.
 
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Ralston18 said:
Not really a good option - unethical overall and even if that Power Save 400 watt PSU proves to be okay - it is still on the low end of the wattage range.

PSU may not be able to fulfill USB power demands. But there may indeed be some other issues involved.

That said, if the computer and the PSU are only a month old then there should be some warranty - is that correct?

If so, make a warranty claim. Doing "too much" might result in a voided warranty.
Click to expand...
Yeah I even paid for the extra warranty. Will they still take a look at it even though I added a case fan, extra memory, and another SSD? Plus, I had the same problem with the computer I bought before this one, and since it was on open box, they exchanged it for a new one. Both were the same model.
 
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I do not know if they will take a look at it or not. Nor how they may interpret what you have done with respect to the warranty terms.

Some companies are fairly reasonable about such things. Other companies use the same things as an excuse to void warranty.

Where did you purchase the computer?
 
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Ralston18 said:
I do not know if they will take a look at it or not. Nor how they may interpret what you have done with respect to the warranty terms.

Some companies are fairly reasonable about such things. Other companies use the same things as an excuse to void warranty.

Where did you purchase the computer?
Click to expand...
Micro center.
 
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Take all back to the store if possible.

Read through the warranty as best you can and get all the documentation and sales receipt in order.

Set up an appointment if possible or perhaps required. Take a few photographs of everything beforehand. Including serial numbers and part numbers.

Demonstrate the problem or at least try to be there if/when they test.

I would expect (or at least hope) that they would be able to narrow down the problem: PSU, wireless adapter, USB, etc..
 
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Ralston18 said:
Take all back to the store if possible.

Read through the warranty as best you can and get all the documentation and sales receipt in order.

Set up an appointment if possible or perhaps required. Take a few photographs of everything beforehand. Including serial numbers and part numbers.

Demonstrate the problem or at least try to be there if/when they test.

I would expect (or at least hope) that they would be able to narrow down the problem: PSU, wireless adapter, USB, etc..
Click to expand...
Ok. I will bring it back to micro center next weekend and see if they can help me. Thank you very much for all your help.
 
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i'm having exact same issue! lian li 0-11 and have my glorious o wireless adapter at front IO and if i'm using it wireless it stutters to the point of it being unsusable.... so frustrating
 
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