[SOLVED] Intel SSD 320 series fried diode (?) CR3, one contact, should I remove it?

[kornsoud]

Hi! Could you please help me with my SSD? I plugged 6-pin PCIE to 8-pin CPU, I also plugged 24-pin to 24-pin and 8-pin CPU to 8-pin CPU (my motherboard has two 8-pin CPU power slots) and pressed POWER button, I don't remember what happened next. SSD died after that, undetectable in bios. I see one fried component (A2 P0d) inside. Also it looks like the component have only one contact connected, but I'm not sure, it's so small.

Could you please take a look at the photos and give me any advice? ANYTHING WOULD BE HELPFUL!

Spoiler: Photos

Spoiler: Zoomed In

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

I plugged 6-pin PCIE to 8-pin CPU
You mean GPU? If your GPU has an 8pin connector, then you should hook up an 8pin connector. You might want to source another 320 SSD from Ebay(which is a for parts listing so you can replace the diode) which would probably be faster and the cheapest route.

On second thoughts, I'm concerned about the make and model of your PSU and it's age. Might want to pass on the specs to your build too.

 

[kornsoud]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

I plugged 6-pin PCIE to 8-pin CPU
You mean GPU? If your GPU has an 8pin connector, then you should hook up an 8pin connector. You might want to source another 320 SSD from Ebay(which is a for parts listing so you can replace the diode) which would probably be faster and the cheapest route.

On second thoughts, I'm concerned about the make and model of your PSU and it's age. Might want to pass on the specs to your build too.

No, I mean CPU second power slot.

PSU: Corsair TX650

Motherboard:

Spoiler: Motherboard

 

[fzabkar]

The diode can be removed. There is no need to replace it, and certainly no need to cannibalise a donor SSD for this one part.

You need to be mindful of the non-standardised pinouts of modular PSUs. I suspect that this is responsible for the catastrophic damage.

If you have a multimeter, we can do more thorough tests.

 

[kornsoud]

The diode can be removed. There is no need to replace it, and certainly no need to cannibalise a donor SSD for this one part.

You need to be mindful of the non-standardised pinouts of modular PSUs. I suspect that this is responsible for the catastrophic damage.

If you have a multimeter, we can do more thorough tests.

Yeah, I'm an idiot. Do you suggest to remove this diode? My concern is it looks like it's already removed from one side.

About multimeter. I think about buying one today or tomorrow.

 

[fzabkar]

A cheap digital multimeter is all you need. You should pay less than US$10.

BTW, I may be able to help you repair other parts of your system, if you post to an appropriate TH forum (and let me know) ...

... or post your question here:

https://ww.reddit.com/r/ElectronicsRepair/rising/

 

[kornsoud]

Spoiler: Diode A2 P0d

 

[fzabkar]

Yes, it does look like it desoldered itself, which would be bad for the downstream components. Anyway, we'll see what we can find find with a multimeter. Let me know when you're ready.

 

[kornsoud]

Yes, it does look like it desoldered itself, which would be bad for the downstream components. Anyway, we'll see what we can find find with a multimeter. Let me know when you're ready.

New info. With diode connected on both sides PC doesn't start (repairman did this for me but I can't work with him anymore). Yeah, I read about that, it means diode is shorted. What should I look for next? I don't have a multimeter yet. Do you think it's okay to buy the cheapest one from some shady brand?

 

[fzabkar]

Your "repairman" Is incompetent. It should have taken him only a few seconds to determine whether the diode is shorted. You need to remove this diode. There is no need to replace it, at least not for data recovery purposes. If that's the only problem, then your SSD should work.

That said, we can do more testing when you get your multimeter.

 

[kornsoud]

Your "repairman" Is incompetent. It should have taken him only a few seconds to determine whether the diode is shorted. You need to remove this diode. There is no need to replace it, at least not for data recovery purposes. If that's the only problem, then your SSD should work.

That said, we can do more testing when you get your multimeter.

I agree about the repairman, he was too cocky and lazy. I'm looking for another one. As you said before, "Yes, it does look like it desoldered itself" - the SSD didn't work with the diode desoldered from one side, is there any chance that desoldering the diode from both sides will make SSD work? I understand that I need to remove the shorted diode anyway.

 

[fzabkar]

It didn't look like the diode was completely desoldered from one side. Wait for your multimeter and we'll take some measurements.

 

[kornsoud]

It didn't look like the diode was completely desoldered from one side. Wait for your multimeter and we'll take some measurements.

Сould you please tell me what should I measure here, what elements and what for? CR3 (diode) for short circuit - got it. What else. The photos once again:

Spoiler: Photos (CR3 has been soldered now on both sides

 

[fzabkar]

Your photos are quite poor. You need something better than a potato camera.

Anyway, measure the resistance between ground and each of the test points in the following photo clips. One photo shows 3 inductors -- measure between either terminal of each inductor and ground. You can use any screw hole as your ground reference.

https://i.postimg.cc/hjyZYnXW/Intel-SSD-320-inductors.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/QNznkXLc/Intel-SSD-320-1-V35.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/bN2VmK8W/Intel-SSD-320-PCB-TVS-CAW-5-VF.jpg

 

[kornsoud]

I appreciate your help. I'll do the measurements of SSD soon.

I have also a fried HDD, same problem. No spinning, not detected. A repairman said that one resistor was dead, he replaced it. I connected the HDD to my PC. Immediately I heard a continious sparks sound, it took 15 seconds to load the system, HDD not detected. I turned off my PC. This area was hot. On the second photo you can see the old resistor which has been replaced. The first photo has some measurements I did with my multimeter.

Spoiler: HDD photos

 

[fzabkar]

Your "repairman" is an idiot.

Please remove the shorted 5V TVS diode, ie the one that "beeps both sides". If you don't have flush cutters, then use a fingernail clipper.

 

[kornsoud]

SSD measurements:

Spoiler: SSD

 

[kornsoud]

Your "repairman" is an idiot.

Please remove the shorted 5V TVS diode, ie the one that "beeps both sides". If you don't have flush cutters, then use a fingernail clipper.

I'll try it. Do you think he used a wrong resistor and did something bad?

 

[kornsoud]

Your "repairman" is an idiot.

Please remove the shorted 5V TVS diode, ie the one that "beeps both sides". If you don't have flush cutters, then use a fingernail clipper.

He also said that both diodes were good. I asked him about diodes several times. Is that possible that this diode died after a new resistor has been installed?

 

[fzabkar]

If the diodes were good, then something is wrong with your setup. Don't proceed until you have ensured that your PSU and its cabling is good, otherwise you will kill your unprotected drive(s).

Here are the voltages you should be measuring at the end of the SATA power cable:

https://pinoutguide.com/Power/sata-power_pinout.shtml

 

[fzabkar]

The 1V8 and 3V3 supply voltages appear to be shorted to ground. If that's correct, then your SSD is not really a DIY case. Sorry. In fact, these are the supplies for the NAND flash, so there is a possibility that one or more flash ICs are dead, in which case even a professional data recovery company will not be able to do anything for you.

 

[fzabkar]

You could ask your repairman to remove the ICs at U33 and U30. If the shorts go away, then you may be lucky and the damage may have been restricted to these ICs.

 

[kornsoud]

The 1V8 and 3V3 supply voltages appear to be shorted to ground. If that's correct, then your SSD is not really a DIY case. Sorry. In fact, these are the supplies for the NAND flash, so there is a possibility that one or more flash ICs are dead, in which case even a professional data recovery company will not be able to do anything for you.

Should I remove the shorted diode (CR3) from my SSD and repeat the measurements?

 

[kornsoud]

You could ask your repairman to remove the ICs at U33 and U30. If the shorts go away, then you may be lucky and the damage may have been restricted to these ICs.

After removing them should I connect the SSD to the PC and try again?

 

[USAFRet]

Is the eventual result a working drive? Or to possibly recover the data that was on it?

If the latter, this is specifically what full drive backups are for. I know it's probably too late for this drive, but for next time...