[SOLVED] AIO Header

[Comppix]

Hi All,

Recently changed motherboard and CPU, and moved my Corsair H80i v2 across.

I am getting a "CPU Fan Speed Error" message on a cold boot, and have to go into the BIOS and exit it before it will start up. Problem doesn't happen on system restarts.

As per Corsair's instructions, the AIO is connected to the CPU Fan header, and my Asus b450 board has Q-fan disabled. I've also set it to DC with all temperature thresholds at 100%, with neither removing the error message.

I'm not getting anywhere particularly fast with Corsair support, and haven't found the solution while searching, so was hoping someone might have some insight or have the same style BIOS and know the correct settings to use?

CPU temps appear to be normal (40 Celsius at idle, 65 at load).

It's an Asus b450-f Rog Strix Gaming II

 

[alceryes]

Are the H80i v2 fans spinning? Did you move any of the H80i connectors? Do you still have the USB connected to the internal USB2 header?

 

[Comppix]

Are the H80i v2 fans spinning? Did you move any of the H80i connectors? Do you still have the USB connected to the internal USB2 header?

Hey - thanks for the reply!

Yes, the H80i v2 fans are spinning.

No, I didn't change any of the connectors, just unplugged them from the old motherboard and replugged them into the new motherboard. So, there is a 3 pin fan connector plugged into the CPU Fan header, and the two fans are plugged into the AIO via the spltter.

Unfortunately I do not have the USB connected to the internal USB2 header - my old system was barebones pre-assembled (i.e. mobo, CPU, RAM and AIO) and it never had the cable or connection. I have no idea where the cable might be if it was even given to me. Do you think this would solve the problem?

I think I can buy the cable, but thought it was only used by Link/iCue.

 

[Paperdoc]

I see two items for your attention. You DO need to be running the iCUE software tool so it can take over control of CPU cooling by the H80i system. And yes, that means you need the cable for connecting from the pump to a mobo USB2 header. Contact Corsair for help on where to get one of those.

Secondly, you've made an error in your adjustments. The design of the system is that the PUMP unit should always receive a full 12 VDC power supply and run full speed. One way to ensure that is to use a quirk of the design of the new 4-pin PWM fan system pertaining to mis-matches. If an older 3-pin fan is connected to a 4-pin header that is using the new PWM Mode to control its fan's speed, that fan will always run full speed and deliver CPU cooling - maybe over-cooling, but still good for the CPU. So the H80i PUMP is wired like a 3-pin fan. It is intended that it should be plugged into the CPU_FAN header AND that the header's configuration in BIOS Setup should be set to the new PWM Mode (NOT the DC Mode and not the Auto Mode) even though the pump connector has 3 holes. This way the fan is guaranteed a full 12 VDC supply at all times from Pin #2. I don't know about this little detail, but MAYBE the iCUE tool actually checks for that and sets it. BUT you are NOT running iCUE! So change your CPU_FAN header to PWM Mode to ensure pump speed.

 

[alceryes]

I see two items for your attention. You DO need to be running the iCUE software tool so it can take over control of CPU cooling by the H80i system. And yes, that means you need the cable for connecting from the pump to a mobo USB2 header. Contact Corsair for help on where to get one of those.

Secondly, you've made an error in your adjustments. The design of the system is that the PUMP unit should always receive a full 12 VDC power supply and run full speed. One way to ensure that is to use a quirk of the design of the new 4-pin PWM fan system pertaining to mis-matches. If an older 3-pin fan is connected to a 4-pin header that is using the new PWM Mode to control its fan's speed, that fan will always run full speed and deliver CPU cooling - maybe over-cooling, but still good for the CPU. So the H80i PUMP is wired like a 3-pin fan. It is intended that it should be plugged into the CPU_FAN header AND that the header's configuration in BIOS Setup should be set to the new PWM Mode (NOT the DC Mode and not the Auto Mode) even though the pump connector has 3 holes. This way the fan is guaranteed a full 12 VDC supply at all times from Pin #2. I don't know about this little detail, but MAYBE the iCUE tool actually checks for that and sets it. BUT you are NOT running iCUE! So change your CPU_FAN header to PWM Mode to ensure pump speed.

Good stuff here.
You definitely need that mini USB to USB header cable to control the fans/pump. It plugs into the side of the pump (right at the CPU). This is the cable - https://www.amazon.com/CGTime-Female-header-motherboard-cable/dp/B01NA7O23N
Also, I'm not much of a fan of the iCUE software. I use the older Corsair LINK instead. It's got a smaller footprint, is easier to use (IMHO), and fully supports the H80i v2.

 

[Comppix]

You DO need to be running the iCUE software tool so it can take over control of CPU cooling by the H80i system. And yes, that means you need the cable for connecting from the pump to a mobo USB2 header. Contact Corsair for help on where to get one of those.

Thanks - that's a worry then really because the H80i v2 was on my old system for about 5 years and never had the USB2 header cable and I never installed Link/iCue! I get the impression I might be lucky it's survived this long...

It is intended that it should be plugged into the CPU_FAN header AND that the header's configuration in BIOS Setup should be set to the new PWM Mode (NOT the DC Mode and not the Auto Mode) even though the pump connector has 3 holes. This way the fan is guaranteed a full 12 VDC supply at all times from Pin #2. I don't know about this little detail, but MAYBE the iCUE tool actually checks for that and sets it. BUT you are NOT running iCUE! So change your CPU_FAN header to PWM Mode to ensure pump speed.

It's typical that Corsair themselves didn't pick up on this, and have sent me down different routes. I didn't try Auto, but I tried DC (based on trying to get 12v) and I read that disabling Q-fan is the same as setting to 12v, which is why I tried them but neither worked. I will swap to PWM,

Are you saying that, regardless of iCue or not, I should be setting PWM anyway?

 

[Comppix]

You definitely need that mini USB to USB header cable to control the fans/pump. It plugs into the side of the pump (right at the CPU). This is the cable - https://www.amazon.com/CGTime-Female-header-motherboard-cable/dp/B01NA7O23N
Also, I'm not much of a fan of the iCUE software. I use the older Corsair LINK instead. It's got a smaller footprint, is easier to use (IMHO), and fully supports the H80i v2.

Thanks - I'll try and source the cable. I didn't actually see the port on the pump but I wasn't looking for it.

I don't suppose you know where I can find a copy of Link? All my searches just throw up iCUE, and almost everything I read seems to echo what you say - iCUE isn't particularly great and also a bit bloated (I also have nothing else that it would control).

 

[alceryes]

Go to Corsair downloads page and search for link.
Version 4.9.9.3 is the latest.

 

[Crosslhs82x2]

I'm with you Alceryes on the corsair link 4.
Most people think it is real buggy but once a person figures out what wasn't right like the cpu temp offset for Ryzen cpu temps you learn to use Ryzen Master and Hwinfo64, but over-all link had better fan speed control.

My H110i was about 3 months from the 5yr warranty end running link 4( still cooling as it has always done) and decided to get a new cooler, now I have to use Icue.
H150i Elite Capellix.
Have A Great Weekend Guy's!!!!!!

 

[Comppix]

Okay I tried to set PWM in BIOS, and it's asking me for other settings - max fan speeds based on temperature low/med/high temperatures.

What should I be using for this?

 

[Paperdoc]

So I'll assume you do not yet have that cable, and can only make settings in BIOS Setup since Corsair Link can't operate yet. Two items for you to note.

First, in BIOS Setup, the CPU_FAN header will tell you about the CPU fan. But in reality, what is plugged into the header it the PUMP unit, and it is that speed you are seeing. BIOS Setup can NOT tell you the rad fan speeds, and it can NOT control those, because the FANS are not connected there. So for now, all you can do is set the configuration for the PUMP part, even though the screens use the label CPU Fan. Later when you get Link working, that tool can tell you the pump speed AND the rad fan speed, and allow you to configure the fans there.

Second, in BIOS Setup there are two items with similar names. One is the Control Profile or Setting or some such. It normally has four options: Normal or Standard (does its pre-programmed control of "fans" according to CPU temperature); Turbo or similar (runs "fan" full speed always)' Quiets (runs "fan" at a fixed slow speed); and Manual, which does automatic temperature-controlled speeds but allows you to specify your own "fan curve" of what speed to run the fans for certain measured temperatures. Set that to Normal. Separately there should be a setting for fan MODE, with maybe three options: Voltage or DC; PWM; or maybe Auto. Once the system has used the Profile setting above to decide what speed the "fan" should run, this setting is how it sends out the electrical signals to make that happen. As I said earlier, set this to PWM so that it always sends out the full speed voltage on Pin #2, and the pump will run at full speed. That also means that the rad FANS will run at a pretty fast and fixed speed, since that speed is determined by the rad fan control system in the PUMP, not by the mobo CPU_FAN header. And that pump-based system is NOT yet receiving instructions from the Link software, so it will run the fans fast to ensure the CPU does get cooled well. Later when you get Link working, those rad fans' speeds WILL be under control, and you can configure those details using Link. Your BIOS Setup system can never control the rad FAN speeds, because they are mot connected to any mobo header.

 

[Comppix]

As I said earlier, set this to PWM so that it always sends out the full speed voltage on Pin #2, and the pump will run at full speed. That also means that the rad FANS will run at a pretty fast and fixed speed, since that speed is determined by the rad fan control system in the PUMP, not by the mobo CPU_FAN header.

Thanks @Paperdoc. Yes, I haven't got the USB cable yet; I've asked Corsair where I can get one and am waiting to hear back. The previous Amazon link isn't good for me as I'm not in the US.

The confusion for me however is... on my BIOS, setting PWM is actually asking me to set a fan curve - when I select PWM from the list of PWM/DC/etc, more options appear including maximum fan speed percentage at X temperature, maximum fan speed percentage at Y temperature, and also for Z temperature, where X, Y and Z can be set, as well as the percentages for each of them.

 

[Paperdoc]

That is not common. More commonly the header configuration options have a "fan curve" pre-set, and you have an OPTION to change to setting your own custom curve. Just take a look and see whether, somehow, that custom curve option already was chosen, and you can un-choose that by selecting a Standard or Normal (or similar) Profile option.

However, if that is not available and you need to make those three settings, I'd suggest something like:
at 30 C and below, speed to 30%
at 60 C, speed to 70%
at 75C, speed to 100%
Your CPU probabaly can function perfectly up to 80 C, maybe a bit higher, and will start to throttle if it gets close to 90 C. So having full cooling below that range is good. To avoid the fan stalling at low temps, I suggested 30% as a minimum to start.

 

[Comppix]

However, if that is not available and you need to make those three settings, I'd suggest something like:
at 30 C and below, speed to 30%
at 60 C, speed to 70%
at 75C, speed to 100%
Your CPU probabaly can function perfectly up to 80 C, maybe a bit higher, and will start to throttle if it gets close to 90 C. So having full cooling below that range is good. To avoid the fan stalling at low temps, I suggested 30% as a minimum to start.

Yes, there were values pre input but I was expecting PWM to just be a "switch" sort of setting.

Appreciate those settings - I can use them as a guide.

Corsair aren't being particularly useful although they have (now) suggested an RMA which sounds great, but... the unit is out of warranty unfortunately.