Question All Cases Suck?

[DefinitelyNotTom]

So I guess all cases suck? Doing research it looks like you flat out must have either noise or bad temps, no way around it.

And here I spent a lot on the r6, with all those rave reviews about how oh it's so quiet and it's good enough temps.... Yeah, those are different people saying those things as it doesn't have both at the same time, the more I research it.

Basically you have to either take the front panel off and have it be a loud case or if you leave it on the testing on gamersnexus shows over a TEN DEGREE increase in cpu temps and I think like an 8 degree increase in gpu temps.

So what do I do now? This is the last day I can decide whether to return it or not (haven't opened it yet). I had decided on a fractal design regardless, only to find out every one of them has issues either with temps or noise.

And no I am not going to spend hundreds for "better fans" when I am already out over $2k on a pc I budgeted $1200 for.

 

[USAFRet]

It seems you're way down the rabbit hole of Analysis Paralysis.
Over analyzing the minute differences between different options, with little real frame of reference.

Buy something. Build it.

 

[DefinitelyNotTom]

Modern hard drives are quiet. I have never once heard my hdd in my case, even if its not properly mounted.

A GPU is going to be loud in all cases if its loud. They have to exhaust somewhere in all cases, and that's where the most noise comes from.

I wonder if I should just put my HDDs in, then. lol. I have 2 wd blue 7200rpm ones to be more quiet, but was going to just sell them because I am already going to use 3 ssds. I'd "rather" have everything ssds where all transfers from drive to drive will be lightning fast, but maybe I should throw the hdds in anyway for emergency extra space or backup only. then again, for backup only, I could do it on an external one.

 

[NightHawkRMX]

If you have the HDD and sata cables, no issue with trying.

If for some reason you find them to noisy (which i bet isnt gonna happen) you can remove them

 

[DefinitelyNotTom]

If you have the HDD and sata cables, no issue with trying.

If for some reason you find them to noisy (which i bet isnt gonna happen) you can remove them

I know this will make me sound crazy, but im worried about messing with parts after the pc has been in use, due to electricity. people say unplug it and then as long as you don't take the psu apart, you wouldn't have an issue, but then others had said even after you unplug it, it has electricity running through it for hours, days, even weeks.

Another thing is me wondering if I even flat need them. if not, I might as well take the extra money for them. I don't really think I'd ever need more than a couple TB of space on an active pc. Anything beyond that would probably just be stuff I could archive on an external one and rarely touch.

Oh well. Anyway, I'll just think about it and do whatever. Also people mentioned you can set the HDDs to not spin unless in use within the last x minutes as well.

 

[NightHawkRMX]

Your overthinking this.

Turn the PSU switch off then press power button on the case to drain the power out of the system.

Then you can change whatever you want. Don't bother with esd, its overblown.

 

[USAFRet]

Unless you know someone personally and local who wants them, selling used hard drives is a waste of time and effort.

Instead, buy a USB dock, and use them for backups.

 

[geofelt]

Did I miss something???
What are the parts inside of the case that need to be cooled?
In particular, the cpu,gpu and cooler.
What is the ambient temperature and what are the cpu idle and load temperatures.

I know it is a r9 case, what fans are installed and what is the orientation?

Nothing with moving parts can be truly silent. But, you can have an all but inaudible setup.

 

[DefinitelyNotTom]

Your overthinking this.

Turn the PSU switch off then press power button on the case to drain the power out of the system.

Then you can change whatever you want. Don't bother with esd, its overblown.

if you have to touch a switch on the psu then that means you're reaching in while electricity is still flowing. articls have me all paranoid saying you should touch metal while working in a case and then someone on here claims that is bad, not god.

Unless you know someone personally and local who wants them, selling used hard drives is a waste of time and effort.

Instead, buy a USB dock, and use them for backups.

they're not used. they're sealed.

Did I miss something???
What are the parts inside of the case that need to be cooled?
In particular, the cpu,gpu and cooler.
What is the ambient temperature and what are the cpu idle and load temperatures.

I know it is a r9 case, what fans are installed and what is the orientation?

Nothing with moving parts can be truly silent. But, you can have an all but inaudible setup.

not built yet, but not going to use aftermarket cooler or fans. 3900x stock and r6 case stock fans. evga 1070 ti, but will rarely if ever game.

 

[NightHawkRMX]

The switch on the psu is on the outside, next to the power plug.

 

[DefinitelyNotTom]

The switch on the psu is on the outside, next to the power plug.

thanks. I'm going to be fairly clueless until actually building. lol. Other than what I can find out in youtube vids.

Well my 2 choices "had" been r6 and define c. I needed to decide today where I can return the r6 if need be. Glancing at gamersnexus results for the define c, looks like the temps and noise are almost exactly the same on the define c as they are on r6 with top open.

So I guess I am not much closer to choosing between the two. the r6 does have more ioptions where I could switch back and forth between noise and temps, whereas the define c is about the same no matter how you have the case arranged. Also, the r6 has the front usb type c and the 5.25 bay. Define c sheds 10 pounds of weight and costs less.

 

[NightHawkRMX]

Most PSUs will just have a removable power plug and power switch.

Flipping the switch to the 0 will essentially act like removing the power switch.

Some older design PSUs will have a voltage switch and some newer ones will have eco button or rgb button, but most do not.

 

[drivinfast247]

No case. Passive cooled cpu. Passive cooled gpu(if needed). Fanless PSU. SSD. As quiet as you can get.

 

[DefinitelyNotTom]

How important is it to most people to have a front usb type c? Maybe I should make a separate thread asking, but not sure where. That is really what it comes down to for me to make my final decision between r6 and define c. then if I DO keep the r6 I'll do an internal optical drive just because I can, so difference in price will be around $100 if I keep the r6. And also 10 pounds heavier case.

 

[USAFRet]

How important is it to most people to have a front usb type c? Maybe I should make a separate thread asking, but not sure where. That is really what it comes down to for me to make my final decision between r6 and define c. then if I DO keep the r6 I'll do an internal optical drive just because I can, so difference in price will be around $100 if I keep the r6. And also 10 pounds heavier case.

It only counts if it is important to you.

My near 4 year old AIR 540 does not, and I am not likely to change that case anytime soon.

 

[NightHawkRMX]

Some motherboards have USB-C on the back.

Unless you need USB-C, it isnt important

 

[DefinitelyNotTom]

Some motherboards have USB-C on the back.

Unless you need USB-C, it isnt important

I got one that has it on the back and also the header for it on the front. So I kind of hate to not go ahead and make use of it, as many other people wish they could have that. For me, I'd be using it for an external ssd. obviously would be easiest in front and I don't want to fool with hubs and extension cables. It would also mean 2 usb type c ones, one front and one back, instead of only one total.

So tough to decide. Sigh.

 

[egonline]

These negligible differences in noise and heat insulation that you imagine affecting your rig won't. Several of the numbers listed by the manufacturer are a range of all metrics measured during testing, with some margin of error applied. When using a good quality case from a respected brand, my builds invariably performed just fine with acceptable noise levels and virtually unnoticeable thermal effect.

However from the way you describe your situation and express this Armageddon count down that is your return window, it seems that you either suffer from crippling what-if anxiety caused by doubt, have a somewhat unwarranted buyers remorse, or a mix of both. Thus, the only way to convince you that everything will be okay is for you to just build the machine, see if things are okay, and if not start tweaking it.

A suggestion about noise, though- get yourself noise-absorbing adhesive pads to stick inside the case in varying thickness, and buy the smoothest, quietest fans such as 'Noctua' brand along with these rubber 'screw' replacements that absorb and prevent fan vibration where it attaches to the case.

You also have the option of placing your computer motherboard and expansions in a bath of liquid nitrogen, in a tub located in the closet on the other side of the wall from your desk with wiring for the monitor and external peripherals extending out to this desk. Heat and sound will not be a thing.

 

[DefinitelyNotTom]

have spent a crazy amount of money when not meaning to and picked parts a little at a time vver 2 years so that is why I don't want to mess up badly.

Main reason I am going back and forth between r6 and define c, though, is I prefer lighter cases when possible. If the r6 was the same weight as the define c, I'd 100% go with r6 and be done. As it is I am weighing price/weight vs. internal optical/front usb type c.

And as for the original point of the topic... worrying there simply because I don't want parts to break.

 

[USAFRet]

have spent a crazy amount of money when not meaning to and picked parts a little at a time vver 2 years so that is why I don't want to mess up badly.

That is precisely the wrong way to build a PC.
Right now, you have parts that are two years out of date, never been used.

Main reason I am going back and forth between r6 and define c, though, is I prefer lighter cases when possible. If the r6 was the same weight as the define c, I'd 100% go with r6 and be done. As it is I am weighing price/weight vs. internal optical/front usb type c.

Weight? Unless you have a really fragile desk, or transporting it regularly, what difference does a couple of pounds make?
I have no idea how much my case weighs, nor do I care.

 

[DefinitelyNotTom]

That is precisely the wrong way to build a PC.
Right now, you have parts that are two years out of date, never been used.



Weight? Unless you have a really fragile desk, or transporting it regularly, what difference does a couple of pounds make?
I have no idea how much my case weighs, nor do I care.

As Ive said in other threads I don't have outdated parts. The mistake of buying over 2 years just made me lose money as I kept reselling them. I have current parts.... x570, 3900x, 970 pro, etc... The closest thing I have to outdated parts are the psu (rm550x, which is still good) and 1070ti which I don't care about gpu as that is overkill already for me.

I have shoulder issues, but yes it would mostly stay stationary. I did occasionally move my current desktop into another room when calibrating my tvs, though. So maybe like twice a year I'd move it at most, so indeed I shouldn't care much. Still nice and nifty when they're light. lol.

To be clear, yes it was a bad way to buy parts, but no I don't have outdated parts. I chose losing money rather than keeping the outdated ones. But I better build soon before I feel something new needs to be bought yet again.

 

[USAFRet]

Still nice and nifty when they're light. lol.

Introducing another variable, a heavier case may be "quieter". More mass to absorb any vibration.

uh oh...

 

[DefinitelyNotTom]

Introducing another variable, a heavier case may be "quieter". More mass to absorb any vibration.

uh oh...

if so, only one variable, whereas he numbers already show it's about the same noise level as the lighter define c. (define c is barely over half as heavy).

I think I have until the end of the day Sunday so will just decide and be done I guess. then after that I have to decide for my final ssd pcie 3 vs pcie 4.... more dependable Samsung 3.0 or faster 4.0 for about same price. And now regretting the inland premium 3.0 one because its write speeds are worse than the others so it will end up being third in my line of ssds.

 

[USAFRet]

3.0 vs 4.0 for the SSD?
Unless you know why you need the difference, you won't notice. PCIe 4.0 is brand new and not fully fleshed out yet.

And an Inland? In a $2k system? That was a waste of money and an M.2 port.

 

[DefinitelyNotTom]

3.0 vs 4.0 for the SSD?
Unless you know why you need the difference, you won't notice. PCIe 4.0 is brand new and not fully fleshed out yet.

And an Inland? In a $2k system? That was a waste of money and an M.2 port.

lol. that last part is pretty funny. It uses the good controller that only a few others use a better one than. And if I am supposedly not going to notice the difference between pcie 3 and pcie 4, then I am not going to notice the difference between that and another. I have the 970 pro as my main one. You're contradicting your other statement that I shouldn't listen to people who try to say you have to get the top part. I am not going to get 3 970 pros just because the overall system cost $2k and it's frankly dumb to say that a 3000/1700 ssd is a waste of money when some pay more than I did on that one for a 2.5" ssd. This is exactly how it became a $2k build to begin with.... me listening to people such as yourself basically saying anything besides the top end part is crap, even though that ssd uses a good controller... same one that any non-Samsung brands use.

I think you're who originally told me be sure and get Samsung... before I realized nobody notices the difference in speed that those top end ones have. That's really the waste of money.... to get better sequential writes that nobody will ever notice. To say an inland premium is a waste of an m2 slot is about the most overboard claim I have ever seen on this whole site. Microcenter is a trusted brand/company. The specs on their site actually even say it's a 3000/2500 one, which is good for $100. I simply said I wish I hadn't gotten it since I am going to have faster ones for the other two slots. But the difference in speed is pretty meaningless on those anyway.

 

[USAFRet]

"speed" is not the only issue.
Sustained speed, reliability, warranty..

But...you're the one still waffling over parts, 2 years later.

Let us know when its built.