AsRock Z170 Extreme4 1151 Skylake Dr. Debug 00, No Display, and No Post

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Dean5000

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Dec 27, 2015
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Hi, I've been getting this Dr. Debug 00 error, no display,and no post or beeps (I used the old small speaker from my previous build on the new motherboard, so I only think that I've got it plugged in the right place) upon booting up my new pc build for the first time. It's a completely new build made up of:
I7 6700k CPU,
ASUS STRIX GeForce GTX 980 Ti,
AsRock Z170 Extreme4 1151 Skylake Motherboard,
Hyper Evo 212 CPU Cooler,
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4 2400 Mhz,
2 x Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive.
EVGA G2 1300W Power Supply
Dell U2515h 25 inch 1440p Monitor

I've built another pc before a few years ago, and it worked fine straight away with only one small mistake, yet this one I have run into this stressful problem I can't seem to solve despite searching online everywhere. I have done countless CMOS resets, reseated my cpu and cpu cooler a few times, while reapplying thermal paste, I finally gave in and returned my motherboard for a replacement, andthe same error still appears, so it can't be a dead motherboard. I have tried installing my old power supply to see if the new power supply is also dead, but the same error happens, but both the old and the new power supply's fan does spin, and everything that is connected to the power supply directly, such as the graphics card and SSD drives all startup, as in the graphics card lights up and its three fans all spin, and there are startup noises coming from the front of the pc too, (not sure if the noises are from either the SSD's or from the optical drive). If i plug the case fans into the power supply through the molex cables, they al start up full speed too, but if they are only plugged into the fan headers, they don't start up at all, suggesting that the power supply again must be fine I'm guessing?
I've tried removing the graphics card and plugging the monitor into the motherboard Display port slot, and still nothing issolved. The only things left I can think of are that either my CPU itself is damaged and needs replacing, or that my RAM could possibly be incompatible with my motherboard? I did look on my motherboard's website and I couldn't find my exact model RAM on it's compatibility list, but there was very very similar model numbers to mine in that list, so I'm hoping they're compatible.

So if anyone can help me I would be very grateful, thank you!



EDIT: Turns out it definitely isn't my Power supply or my Graphics card that is the problem, as I've just rebuilt my old pc using the old motherboard and CPU, but also using my new power supply and graphics card too, therefore they both work flawlessly. This definitely leaves it down to either the motherboard, CPU, or maybe RAM (?) in which is the problem, though if it's the motherboard, it will be the 2nd time i'd have to get a replacement...

SOLVED EDIT: I already posted a while ago how i solved this problem at the end of this thread, but thought I'd now update this main first post, so any new readers don't have to read everything to the end to find the answer, so: I can confirm that it was my cpu that was faulty all along!!! I've finally got my new pc fully fixed and as soon as I installed the new processor that arrived today, the pc showed a full monitor signal and my bios was fully showing. Now I've been reinstalling applications and things and have nearly got everything from my previous hard drive copied over, so thank you again to everyone that has helped me! :) Hopefully this thread could be useful to someone else who has the problem I had.
 
Solution
alexoiu
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I did try swapping both rams to slots 2 and 4 from 1 and 3 as stated should be the correct way in the motherboard's manual, and I did try just slot 2, and just slot 4, and none of those solved the error
 
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Thanks for the fast replies, My pc unfortunately doesn't get any display recognized, so I can't access the bios at all, do you think then that incompatible RAM would actually cause the Dr. Debug 00 error? the error is described as being 'please check if the CPU is installed correctly and then clear CMOS'.
 
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Durr..If you can check with another set of RAM then, I would do that. The problem is, it can be RAM, motherboard, PSU (although I highly doubt it with your PSU), or CPU. Since CPU's rarely fail, you want to see if RAM is the issue, or you need to RMA the motherboard.
 
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I've already returned the motherboard, and got an identical replacement model, so unless this second motherboard also happens to be DOA, it's not the motherboard that's the problem. It seems from this then that the RAM or CPU seem to be the problem, but if anyone else has any suggestions on what it could possibly be, that'd be welcomed, thank you!
 
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Hi, I did try taking the motherboard out of the case and resting it on a settee arm... i guess not the best surface, but it isn't conductive so it should eliminate the possibility of any shorting that may occur, and only connected the 24 and 8 pin cables as you mentioned, the error 00 still shows, and the cpu fan doesn't spin 🙁 i've tried literally everything now, the difference was, I also tried my old working power supply, and it seemed to work a tiny bit better in that th first few attempts of startup made the cpu fan spin but quite very slowly as it it was struggling to run it, also upon force shutting down the pc with that older power supply in made the blue LEDs of the case fans startup for about half a second along with those case fans also start to spin for half a second before they stopped again... strange. but also after starting it up about 4 times, the cpu fan then no longer started up, taking me back to square one again. Now I've installed my new power supply once again, and still no luck trying other solutions.
 
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Hi,
Try testing again, but no other fans/components (HDDs, cards, USB devices)/wires/cables than CPU, CPU fan and 24 and 8 pin power cables.
Start the board by shortly touching with a screwdriver the 2 pins on the motherboard corresponding to the case power button.

If still the CPU fan is not spinning, then try removing the 8 pin power cable, connecting 1-2 case fans to the motherboard, start the board and see if the case fans are spinning.
 
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I will try that, but could I ask, what would the difference be in using a screwdriver to start the pc power compared to using the onboard power switch that is fixed onto the motherboard? wouldn't they do the same thing as each other? because I've already done your method before but using the onboard power button (not the case power buttons). plus also the case fans directly plugged into only the motherboard fan headers don't start. they only work when plugged into the molex connectors from the power supply.
 
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Ok, I've just tried disocnnecting all RAM modules and also turning off the power supply, and taking out the cable to it, I then put a screwdriver end to two pins where the case power button should connect to, but nothing happened. i then reconnected the power supply cable and turned it on and tried the screwdriver, but again nothing happened?
 
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Just tried removing the 8pin cpu connector, and connecting a case fan to the motherboard and using the power supply to power it up, and the case fan didn't start up at all. Plus I've already received a replacement motherboard which is what I'm using now I sent the other one back thinking it was a dead motherboard, but surely this ones isn't dead too right? I looked up someone else's solution on another thread where they said the cooler master 212 was too tight on their motherboard, and when they loosened it, the pc started up fine after encountering all the errors i have, however I tried loosing mine quite and it sitll didn't work, but after testing it I realised the screws were too loose on the heat sink and so it wasn't very stable, so when i went to save it, there was an odd smell coming from ner the cpu socket, but I don't know whether it was burnt electronics or just melted thermal paste? I've never encountered burnt electronics before so I don't know what it smells like.
 
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When cpu power cable disconnected, you've taken out the CPU cooler and CPU from the problem.
Since power supply tested with the shorting trick, and assuming that the case fans do work, then the power supply should power the case fans on the board, when started with the 24 pin cable connected to it.
It might be a defective 24 pin cable on the power supply, but since same thing occurring with 2 different PSUs... then all that remains is the motherboard.
It might be that the PSU is defective and damages the motherboard. Try RMA-ing the power supply too, just to make sure.
 
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Thank you for helping me out by the way. I only presume I've done the screwdriver thing right though - I touched the little 'PWRBTN' and 'GND' spokes on the System Panel Header next to where the PLED+ and - are with the end of the screwdriver, and there was no response.

Also I was thinking, I still have my previous motherboard and HDD with my OS still intact, so I could always rebuild my previous pc but using my new graphics card and new power supply (using on this faulty build), and i guess that would rule out whether or not they work right? Although I can only hope that what you said about the power supply doesn't happen (that being the cause of actually damaging the motherboard), I got that power supply off of Ebay, but it was described as being used for only 5 minutes to test it works, and that since they had excess for some mining thing, they sold off the excess power supplies (one being the one I bought off them), and also when it arrived, it looked brand new and came in the original packaging with all the cables still cable tied and everything.

EDIT: Turns out it definitely isn't my Power supply or my Graphics card that is the problem, as I've just rebuilt my old pc using the old motherboard and CPU, but also using my new power supply and graphics card too, therefore they both work flawlessly. This definitely leaves it down to either the motherboard, CPU, or maybe RAM (?) in which is the problem, though if it's the motherboard, it will be the 2nd time i'd have to get a replacement...
 
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Since power supply checked, then it's the board. I suggest RMA-ing it and, when getting the replacement, testing it as described, without CPU.
Only case fans and 24 pin power cable, outside the case. Start it with the onboard power button or the screwdriver trick. See if fans are spinning.
 
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Ok, I was thinking of getting a refund on the motherboard, and then buying another brand motherboard of a similar spec just to make sure in case this motherboard happens to really dislike my ram or something. Thanks again :)

I'll update this forum post and pick solutions if the new motherboard solution does fix my problem, I won't be able to get one for at least a week though I think.

Oh and I know you've given a good explanation about why it must be the motherboard that is faulty, but just to clarify, my exact ram is in this Amazon link http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Vengeance-Performance-Desktop-Memory/dp/B00S51XHUQ/ref=sr_1_33?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1447526946&sr=1-33&keywords=ddr4+2x8gb with an item model number of CMK16GX4M2A2400C14, yet on the motherboard's website http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z170%20Extreme4/?cat=Memory that item model number isn't listed (if you copy and paste and use ctrl+f to try and find it), so could that also contribute to the reason my computer might not work?
 
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"Oh and I know you've given a good explanation about why it must be the motherboard that is faulty, but just to clarify, my exact ram is in this Amazon link http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Vengeance-Performance-D... with an item model number of CMK16GX4M2A2400C14, yet on the motherboard's website http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z170%20Extreme4/?cat=Mem... that item model number isn't listed (if you copy and paste and use ctrl+f to try and find it), so could that also contribute to the reason my computer might not work? "

The RAMs are listed by Corsair as compatible with that board:
http://www2.corsair.com/configurator/new_configurator_product_results.aspx?sc=&id=6110307
 
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Hello, I've tried just about everything on there, apart from two things: I noticed that for some reason the new motherboard I have has 10 stand-off holes instead of the normal 9 that most atx motherboards are supposed to have (inside my pc case there is text saying what holes to put stand-offs in for each particular motherboard type), but I only have 9 stand-offs, however the 10th one is in-between the bottom left and middle left stand-offs so I presumed that wouldn't be a problem to have only one missing in which doesn't seem like it needs to be supported anyway. Also since I tried the motherboard out of the case on a non-conductive surface, that shouldn't be the problem.

The only other thing I haven't done on that list was actually taking the CMOS battery out, but I did try clicking the external CMOS rest button on the I/O shield area many times, and also using the CMOS jumpers many times too whenever I was supposed to try using them.

Relating to the first problem about possible shorting though, do you think it's somehow possible that my Hyper 212 Evo mounting pins are shorting the board at all? I'm certain I've installed it the same as I did on my old build's motherboard in which the pc worked, but just in case I thought I should mention this.
 
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Ah good find, thanks, the exact model number of mine isn't on that list, but I can see very similar names that must be just a slight rename since they are selling just 1 stick of 8gb ram instead of the 2x 8gb bundle I got
 
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oh I've found it, thanks. I was thinking of maybe trying out this board http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-Z170-PRO-Gaming-Motherboards/dp/B0126R3QPA/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1451323236&sr=1-1&keywords=z170 after I try to get a refund on this 2nd AsRock board, do you think that's the best move, instead of getting a 3rd motherboard of the same model? At least that motherboard has actual reviews on Amazon in contrast to the motherboard I've got that seems faulty.
 
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