Question Audio has started popping and crackling out of nowhere ?

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Also, I'm downloading Linux Mint Cinnamon right now - just to be sure, I boot into BIOS, change boot order to look for USB devices first then restart which will then boot up the linux distro? Again, I've never really done much of anything like this before so it's all new to me. Interesting experience, for sure.
 
just to be sure, I boot into BIOS, change boot order to look for USB devices first then restart which will then boot up the linux distro?
Yes.

Once you boot from the USB drive, you should be greeted with this image:

mint-liveusb-menu.jpg

Direct link if image doesn't load: https://fostips.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/mint-liveusb-menu.jpg

Rather than installing Mint onto the drive (OEM install), select the "Start Linux Mint" option, where entire distro is loaded into RAM. It takes a while to load, but this way, you can boot into Live Linux Mint desktop without installing it.
Heck, you can disconnect all other storage drives as well, if you're worried overwriting your data.

(I have the same bootable Linux Mint configuration on my USB thumb drive for data recovery purposes.)
 
Hm, I think something else is wrong with the PC. I just had it just shut down randomly, full hard crash like it lost power - but it's plugged into a UPS. Unless the UPS battery wasn't on and I just had it on line power, that shouldn't happen.. I'm so confused. Temps were fine, no blue screen. Could it be the PSU going bad?

Windows event viewer is showing this:
The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly. Event ID: 41. Kernel-Power source.

Also strange that I can't find a dump file for the crash, either.
 
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Could it be the PSU going bad?
We don't know, since you didn't share your PSU's details when i asked for it:
You said that you have Maingear 650W PSU. But since your PC case is also Maingear, you most likely have some OEM PSU.
If you can, take the pic of the PSU's label (where rail voltages and amps are seen) and upload it to the net, e.g www.imgur.com and share the image here.
From the label i could see the PSU's model and also tell if it is decent PSU or do you need to replace PSU ASAP, if it is crap quality PSU.
 
Unfortunately i don't seem to be able to remove the covering that's hiding that information. Seems to be stuck pretty good. I can tell you its a 650w Evga psu, not sure if that helps any.
 
I honestly think I'm at the point where I might look at buying another pre-built. Andromeda Insights has good prices, and I can use my current one to maybe actually learn how the insides work. I have an older PC that I can do that on now, but it's an alienware R7 and I've heard dell doesn't play well with other components so who knows.
 
CPU: i7 13600k
CPU cooler: 280m AIO cooler
Motherboard: MSI PRO b660M-A CEC WiFi DDR4
Ram: 16GB, unsure of brand
SSD/HDD: SOLIDIGM SSD
GPU: 3070Ti
PSU: I believe it's just a Maingear 650W gold, but I'm not 100% positive as the PC is a prebuilt and is no longer available on the Maingear website.
Chassis: Maingear MG-1 case
OS: Win11 Home 24H2
Monitor: Not positive of the exact specs, just running a Samsung monitor and a Vizio TV as a secondary

I'm about to throw this PC out of the window after trying just about everything besides swapping hardware out trying to fix this random audio clicking and popping that came out of nowhere. It happens especially when I'm streaming audio/video like youtube, and can be recreated when moving the volume slider. There's been so many posts I've crawled about the same issue, but unfortunately none of the suggestions I've tried have fixed it.

What I've done:
Tried multiple audio channels
Turned off Audio Enhancements
Tried both front and back audio jacks with multiple headsets
Tried 3 different external sound cards
Disabled C-states
Disabled Core Parking
On the latest bios (7D37v1M1(Beta version))
Updated nvidia drivers to 533.63
Tried turning HAGS off (did not have an effect so I re-enabled it)
Updated to the latest realtek drivers, and tried the drivers that came with the PC
disabled all other audio drivers besides realtek/external sound card drivers
Ethernet is disabled (unable to disable WiFi as it's the only way I have access to the internet)
Have it on the highest power setting
Tested my outlet for any grounding issues - none present.
Windows update is fully up to date
Only have keyboard, mouse and headphones plugged into the PC

I've run latencymon and with c-states enabled I hit over 1000ms which throws errors, but with them disabled it's all green and no errors so I've kept them off but the audio issue still persists.

I have purchased a ground loop isolater but haven't attempted to test it out.

At this point I'm pretty sure it's something inside the PC itself but I'm awful at PC building so if I try to do anything inside the case knowing my luck I'd break it (the most I've done is open the side panel and dust it out, but I haven't even done that in a few months). Any thoughts or ideas would be welcome before I lose the little hair I have left!
MSI motherboards are by far the worst Ive ever has I had a intel MSI that was absolute trash audio drivers.

Try asrock/ gigabyte

And avoid Realtek® ALC897 Codec it's a crappy excuse of a audio codec.
 
Yeah I dumped Realtek altogether by using a DAC. I'm probably not going to switch any hardware in the PC since it seems it's on its death bed, and just going to look into buying a new prebuilt. Going for full AMD this time, though. I've heard to stay away from ASrock for AMD, something about it killing CPUs?
 
Something that comes to mind with the random full shut down - It's around 90f outside and I don't have air con in my bedroom. Wonder if it was actually heat and I missed the HWInfo showing high temps.. Right now it's sitting at 70c with MC sitting open so if it happens again I at least know it isn't temp related.
 
I can tell you its a 650w Evga psu, not sure if that helps any.
EVGA has sold PSUs from great quality (e.g SuperNova G7) all the way to the complete crap (e.g W1, N1 series). So, this little info doesn't tell much.

EVGA usually puts the PSU label on the side, rather than on the top. So, if you open the PC's back panel, behind MoBo, can you see the label?

I honestly think I'm at the point where I might look at buying another pre-built. Andromeda Insights has good prices
For prebuilt, only brand that i can suggest, is StarForge,
link: https://starforgesystems.com/

E.g Horizon III Elite at $1500,
specs: https://starforgesystems.com/products/horizon-iii-elite

Now, as of what makes StarForge in general good, is that they are one of the very few prebuilt system sellers, who actually assemble the build properly, without minor or major issues.

GamersNexus is buying prebuilt PCs incognito and then making in-depth reviews of them, so that people know which prebuilt company to look for and which one to avoid like a plague.
Here is their YT playlist of prebuilt reviews: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLsuVSmND84QuM2HKzG7ipbIbE_R5EnCLM

StarForge prebuilt has been on the spotlight 2 times now. 1st time there were some loose screw issues but 2nd time around, all was in order and build was one of the very few properly built.


Another thing that i like about StarForge is that they openly state what make/model PSU comes with the prebuilt PC. This is actually very rare to see, since most prebuilt PC brands only list PSU's wattage. Sometimes even efficiency but that's it. This means that PSU is often the cheaped out component inside the prebuilt PC. Because when PSU is crap, no-one is going to openly state the make/model. But if PSU would be actually good, stating the make/model actually helps to sell the PC.

Prime example; random Asus prebuilt,
specs: https://rog.asus.com/desktops/mid-tower/rog-strix-g13ch-series/spec/

If you look at PSU specs, all it says, is wattage and efficiency. Nothing more. If same info would be said about CPU or GPU, the listing would say;
CPU - Intel Core i7 (16 cores)
GPU - Nvidia (8GB VRAM)
Yet, there's in-depth info about CPU and GPU.

But with StarForge PC and the Horizon III Elite i linked, you can see on the tin, that the PSU it comes with, is MSI MAG A750GL PCI-E 5.
That PSU is Tier B unit.
PSU Tier list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...JWkc/edit?pli=1&gid=1973454078#gid=1973454078

While i'd like to see Tier A or A+ PSU in the prebuilt, it would jack up the overall price and only very few people are willing to pay money for great quality PSU (including yours truly). While most people love to cheap out on PSU.
But with PSUs, there is a catch:
Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.
Hence why NEVER cheap out on PSU! Also, never buy used PSU either.

MSI motherboards are by far the worst Ive ever has I had a intel MSI that was absolute trash audio drivers.
That depends on the specific audio codec used, rather than calling "all MSI MoBos have terrible audio".

E.g the two MSI MoBos i'm using, they both have Realtek ALC1150 audio codec and i can't say anything bad about audio on my MSI MoBos.
Though, the new MoBos we're going with, have Realtek ALC4082 audio codec. How that fares, i can tell in 3 months time, once we have new MoBos up and running.

And avoid Realtek® ALC897 Codec it's a crappy excuse of a audio codec.
If you pay peanuts - you will get monkeys. Simple as that.

ALC897 is used on the cheap, low end MoBos. Hence the poor sound quality.
OP's MoBo also has the ALC897 codec. So... probably the bane of all the issues.
 
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