Bad CPU? i7-2600k Could use some help pinning down problem.

[jllaugh]

I just recently finished a new built, and am having a bit of a problem which I believe may be due to a bad cpu. When I push the power button, the fans will spin for a moment and immediately stop and you can hear the PSU 'click' as it begins and immediately stops sending power to the MB. I must pull power from the wall or reset cmos before the power button becomes responsive again. Everything will power on and run fine, but only if I've pulled powe from the CPU itself; as soon as I plug in the 12V CPU power the problem begins to repeat itself.

Upon finishing assembling the components and powering up for the first time, everything powered up then after about 3-5 seconds shut itself down, 3-5 seconds after that the machine restarted itself. This happened two or three times before restarting and continuing to run.

Once it stopped restarting itself and continued running, the monitor received signal, displaying the motherboard logo and bios screen which said "new CPU installed, press f1 to enter setup. I left it for the time being to wrap up some other things before finishing. I came back about 5-10 minutes later and as I was walking back to the machine it shut down again and has not been able to restart since.

I removed everything from the motherboard except only what was needed to run and the problem remained. I've reset the cmos, pulled the battery overnight, replaced the aftermarket cooler with the stock one. After resetting cmos or unplugging the power supply from the wall for a few minutes and plugging back in, the machine will try to restart but with the same results.

I'm guessing this is a bad CPU but I'm confused and concerned. Why would it seem to work at first and then stop? It appears that the CPU wasn't DOA which causes me to wonder what else could have caused the CPU to fail. That concerns me because if I get a replacement, what if some underlying problem causes that one to fail, too?

I really appreciate any feedback or suggestions anyone might have to share with me.

Asus P8-Z68 Pro V3
i7-2600k
OCZ 160gb Vertex 3 SSD
OCZ 850W
16gb DDR3 1600

 

[Deleted member 217926]

You should try a different PSU. I have similar motherboard that you are using w/ 2600K. No issues at all. I built a new pc last December same motherboard and CPU and everything is GOOD.

The most reliable component on the PC is the CPU. The probability of having 2 bad MB is low.

Try a new PSU. I have a PSU that have similar symptom as you (different brand).

I kept one of my Antec 850W PSU that failed. I had 3 of these Antec 805W that failed. This PSU has no physical sign of any defect(no burn, no smoke, everything is clean). Except that the PC won't both when connected. All the hardwares and fans crank up but the pc won't boot. When i plug in my new PSU everything works.

Try a new PSU...

Read the whole post.....

After taking the board to my brother's house I was able to rule out the power supply, so no problems there.

The power supply was ruled out early on.

 

[Proximon]

Between board and CPU over 95% of the time the board! You have gone through our guide step by step http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems

Was this ever followed?

I see no reference to breadboarding yet. You need to get the board out of the case to rule out any possible shorts.

Before you can RMA your CPU, Intel requires that you either test the CPU in a known good build, or prove that the current build is OK by running another CPU in it. Sometimes that has to be done.

 

[Deleted member 217926]

Was this ever followed?

I see no reference to breadboarding yet. You need to get the board out of the case to rule out any possible shorts.

Before you can RMA your CPU, Intel requires that you either test the CPU in a known good build, or prove that the current build is OK by running another CPU in it. Sometimes that has to be done.

He tried everything I can think of.

I've tried booting with a single stick of RAM, then subsequently tried with the other three sticks one at a time. I also tried breadboxing as anort suggested, with the same results.

 

[leon2006]

Read the whole post.....

After taking the board to my brother's house I was able to rule out the power supply, so no problems there.

The power supply was ruled out early on.

You tested your mb w/ improperly socketed CPU? It won't boot even w/ good PSU

 

[jsc]

Strip everything out of the case.

Breadboard with only the PSU, motherboard, CPU & HSF, and a small case speaker.

Try to boot. It should fail the POST giving you a series of long, single beeps.

Silence indicates a problem with the PSU, motherboard, or CPU (in that order).

But at least, you will have eliminated everything else as the source of your problems.

More detailed breadboarding instructions:
The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-posting-boot-problems

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboarding

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire (standby power supply): 5 volts always on. The green wire should also have 5 volts on it. It should go to 0 volts when you press the case power button (this is also a good way to test the power switch and the associated wiring), then back to 5 volts when you release the case power switch. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=youtube_gdata

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.

 

[jllaugh]

I really couldn't think of anything else to try, nor could I find any more suggestions I haven't already followed except for testing the CPU in another board because I can't get access to another 1155 board.

The board is on its way back, and since I was still within my 30 days I sent the CPU back to Newegg as well. I figured if I have to wait for the MB then I may as well the CPU and start over with new replacements of each part to increase my chance of success.

I probably won't see my replacements until late this coming week, like early the following week. I'm sure with both new CPU and MB that I will be up and running but with the luck I've had so far with this build I guess anything can happen. 3 bad MBs in a row seems impossible.

Thanks everyone for the feedback here, when my parts come back I'll throw up another post. Hoping it's with good news and not more questions

 

[piggy321]

I really couldn't think of anything else to try, nor could I find any more suggestions I haven't already followed except for testing the CPU in another board because I can't get access to another 1155 board.

The board is on its way back, and since I was still within my 30 days I sent the CPU back to Newegg as well. I figured if I have to wait for the MB then I may as well the CPU and start over with new replacements of each part to increase my chance of success.

I probably won't see my replacements until late this coming week, like early the following week. I'm sure with both new CPU and MB that I will be up and running but with the luck I've had so far with this build I guess anything can happen. 3 bad MBs in a row seems impossible.

Thanks everyone for the feedback here, when my parts come back I'll throw up another post. Hoping it's with good news and not more questions

Hi, I am having the same issue as you were/are. Did the new motherboard fix it? Thanks