[SOLVED] Blue screen when installing windows on new PC with a USB

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

So I recently put together my first build for a gaming PC. It works fine, it loads into the bios and such. When I attempted to install windows 10 onto it via a USB stick, it kept giving me errors once it starts the set up. the first was error 0x8007025D. I deleted and then reinstalled the windows 10 installer onto the USB after that and when I tried again it made it to 13% before another error popped up 0xC0000005. On the third attempt it went back to the other error and now it's just a blue screen followed by a restart that doesn't really do much other than keep the power on and not send any information to the screen every time it tries to start up with the USB plugged in. I've made sure all the BIOS are on default and that the SSD I want to install windows on is the only one active (and given that it's the only memory I have on the PC that's not difficult).

Has anyone else encountered this problem before? Is there a fix or did I just waste money on a PC I can't use now?

 

[Darkbreeze]

You wasted money on a PC you can't use now. Nah, I'm JK.

So, when you created the installation media I'm assuming you used a different machine, yes? And did you choose the option to "create installation media for use on a different PC" or did you create installation media for use on THAT PC that you created it on?

Is this a cheapo generic thumb drive or a decent one? Model? Cheap USB thumb drives are not a good choice for this usually. Well, for anything really, but especially for stuff like this.

I would recommend you create the installation media again, and make sure to choose the "create installation media for use on a different PC" option.

Also, when performing the installation make sure you are plugged in to a USB port on the back of the motherboard, not one on the front case panel or a USB hub. And if there are USB 2.0 ports on the motherboard, it is usually a good idea to use those (black) rather than newer ports (Blue, red, etc.).

What are the full hardware specifications for the build AND, perhaps of greater importance, what is the BIOS version? If you are not sure, you can log into the BIOS and look on the main/general info tab in the BIOS.

 

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

That first part actually gave me a heart attack ya mad yoke XD Bravo.

I installed it onto the USB from my current PC and chose the installation media for use on a different PC. There was also a box already ticked at the bottom that said something about similar specs to my current PC so maybe that might be a factor or is that normal?

the USB was €10 and is a 32GB ADATA. Only got it today too.

The specs are a Ryzen 5 3600X CPU, an MSI MAG X570 Tomahawk Motherboard, an MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1660ti graphics card, a Kingston A2000 1TB SSD, 2 Corsair Vengeance Pros 16GB (8GBs between them), and the power source is a Corsair RM750x 750W ATX 80 plus gold power supply. There are also some fans and a CPU fan cooler too. The bios are MSI too.

Thanks as well for taking the time to reply.

 

[Darkbreeze]

BIOS release version? If you go into the BIOS the BIOS version will be listed on the main screen.

 

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

BIOS release version? If you go into the BIOS the BIOS version will be listed on the main screen.

It says MSI Click Bios 5. And in advanced it says version E7C84AMS.120

I also plugged tye USB directly into the motherboard and while it hasn't blue screened, it is now frozen on the section where you have to enter a product key. As I don't have one I clicked the littke blue option to say I don't and now it's just not loading.

 

[Darkbreeze]

E7C84AMS.120

That. That is the BIOS version. It is two versions back from the current BIOS release version. I'm not sure why you are having installation problems but it's probably a good idea to update to the latest BIOS version first, and then try again, and then we can look at other potential solutions IF that doesn't resolve the issue. Adata is pretty sketchy as far as quality goes, so it might not be the worst idea to try a different flash drive if possible.

Where did you get your Windows installer from? Did you use the Microsoft media creation tool to make the installer or did you get it through some other source?

Which DIMM slots are your memory modules installed in? Are they in the 2nd and 4th slots (A2 and B2) or some other combination of slots?

Actually, this really sounds a lot like bent pins on the CPU and before you do anything else it might be a very good idea to pull the CPU and check it for one or more bent pins. You will need isopropyl alcohol to clean off the old thermal paste from the CPU cooler and heatsink and new paste to apply when you put it back together if you don't find anything wrong. You will want to check VERY closely, because it only takes one bent pin and it doesn't have to be bent very much in order to cause a problem.

 

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

E7C84AMS.120

That. That is the BIOS version. It is two versions back from the current BIOS release version. I'm not sure why you are having installation problems but it's probably a good idea to update to the latest BIOS version first, and then try again, and then we can look at other potential solutions IF that doesn't resolve the issue. Adata is pretty sketchy as far as quality goes, so it might not be the worst idea to try a different flash drive if possible.

Where did you get your Windows installer from? Did you use the Microsoft media creation tool to make the installer or did you get it through some other source?

Which DIMM slots are your memory modules installed in? Are they in the 2nd and 4th slots (A2 and B2) or some other combination of slots?

Actually, this really sounds a lot like bent pins on the CPU and before you do anything else it might be a very good idea to pull the CPU and check it for one or more bent pins. You will need isopropyl alcohol to clean off the old thermal paste from the CPU cooler and heatsink and new paste to apply when you put it back together if you don't find anything wrong. You will want to check VERY closely, because it only takes one bent pin and it doesn't have to be bent very much in order to cause a problem.

I had some issues putting the fan cooler on so maybe I did ah heck it up. Hopefully not though. I'll check it now and get back to you. Edit: thank feck they all look grand.

As for the installation tool I got it from the main Microsoft page.

The DIMMs are in the second and fourth slots. They were in the wrong slots originally but that was a quick correction.

I download the BIOS update onto the USB and then just plug it in like with the Windows installation, right?

 

[Darkbreeze]

I would HIGHLY recommend that you read a few tutorials on updating the BIOS before you do it. I think your board has BIOS flashback, which generally makes it EASIER, but it still takes a specific process including in some cases unpacking the downloaded BIOS update file (Unzipping it) and sometimes also needing to rename one of the files. There are various tutorials AND Youtube videos on doing this. Here is one.

Here is another.

 

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

I would HIGHLY recommend that you read a few tutorials on updating the BIOS before you do it. I think your board has BIOS flashback, which generally makes it EASIER, but it still takes a specific process including in some cases unpacking the downloaded BIOS update file (Unzipping it) and sometimes also needing to rename one of the files. There are various tutorials AND Youtube videos on doing this. Here is one.

Here is another.

Grand stuff. I'll use the old PC for all of this then go out and find some isopropyl in the morning. Fingers crossed this solves the issue. Might get a new USB to be safe too.

Cheers for all this help. It's been relieving a lot of the stress building this thing has caused.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Just realize that even those of us who've been doing this for literally DECADES, run into many of the same problems from time to time and have to reach out to others in order to work through the problem too. Sometimes electronics simply have a mind of their own or the stupidest little thing that you'd never think of could be causing the issue. I've literally seen dozens and dozens of users come here with wildly different issues ranging from won't start at all to "I get this weird glitch" that have been solved by simply taking everything apart and putting it back together.

One thing to be VERY aware of is whether or not there is any chance of a motherboard standoff being in the wrong place under the motherboard. There should ONLY be enough standoffs installed in the motherboard tray to accommodate the exact number AND LOCATION of the mounting holes in the motherboard itself. I've seen a lot of users fill every standoff hole in the tray thinking they needed to, or they came preinstalled that way, and then the board is shorted out on the bottom because there is a standoff in a location where there is no mounting hole for the motherboard and it makes contact with something that it shouldn't.

Worst case, I would recommend that you take it all back out of the case and try bench testing it to see if you can narrow things down IF the BIOS update does not help. Might actually be a good idea to do this BEFORE you update the BIOS, so that if there is a physical problem, you can catch it before you try flashing the BIOS and maybe encounter a problem.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

Just realize that even those of us who've been doing this for literally DECADES, run into many of the same problems from time to time and have to reach out to others in order to work through the problem too. Sometimes electronics simply have a mind of their own or the stupidest little thing that you'd never think of could be causing the issue. I've literally seen dozens and dozens of users come here with wildly different issues ranging from won't start at all to "I get this weird glitch" that have been solved by simply taking everything apart and putting it back together.

One thing to be VERY aware of is whether or not there is any chance of a motherboard standoff being in the wrong place under the motherboard. There should ONLY be enough standoffs installed in the motherboard tray to accommodate the exact number AND LOCATION of the mounting holes in the motherboard itself. I've seen a lot of users fill every standoff hole in the tray thinking they needed to, or they came preinstalled that way, and then the board is shorted out on the bottom because there is a standoff in a location where there is no mounting hole for the motherboard and it makes contact with something that it shouldn't.

Worst case, I would recommend that you take it all back out of the case and try bench testing it to see if you can narrow things down IF the BIOS update does not help. Might actually be a good idea to do this BEFORE you update the BIOS, so that if there is a physical problem, you can catch it before you try flashing the BIOS and maybe encounter a problem.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

I'll double check in the morning then. I got an NZXT case so a lot of those little nubs for the screws were already in for a full ATX which my motherboard is. There was a little nub in the centre as well which I am to understand is also for mounting as the motherboard came with a screw exactly like it. I can see it now it's in one of the screw holes. Unless that's the one that shouldn't be there.

And the motherboard manual shows that they all need to be screwed in. From what I can see anyways, the manual doesn't really go into details beyond "here are the holes, here are the screws you need. Have at it."

I'll double check tomorrow anyways, just in case there's a mount I didn't notice. Knowing my luck there probably is. Need to change the wiring a little anyways with some cabke extensions so no bother at all.

 

[Darkbreeze]

For ATX motherboards there are 9 holes so there should be 9 standoffs that EXACTLY match the same locations. No more, no less.

But, for micro ATX there are ALSO 9 holes, but they are not ALL in the same locations. Some of them ARE, but some of them are NOT. Some cases come with enough standoffs installed from the factory for BOTH types of installations, but usually they will only come with them installed for one or the other since both take exactly 9.

Reference:

 

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

For ATX motherboards there are 9 holes so there should be 9 standoffs that EXACTLY match the same locations. No more, no less.

But, for micro ATX there are ALSO 9 holes, but they are not ALL in the same locations. Some of them ARE, but some of them are NOT. Some cases come with enough standoffs installed from the factory for BOTH types of installations, but usually they will only come with them installed for one or the other since both take exactly 9.

Reference:

Ah grand mine is the nine one then. They were in the locations for each hole and all.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Well, that is good. One less thing to worry about.

 

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

Well, that is good. One less thing to worry about.

I still wanna check just to be safe now. I'm paranoid as all heck with stuff like this. I'll also be getting the cleaning alcohol soon too so I'll follow all the steps you sent me and hopefully this will be sorted.

Seriosuly cheers again for the help. My apologies if I got annoying at any point.

 

[Darkbreeze]

No worries. I get annoyed too when I have problems with hardware. Sometimes I want to do this. I don't recommend or advise it though. LOL.

 

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

No worries. I get annoyed too when I have problems with hardware. Sometimes I want to do this. I don't recommend or advise it though. LOL.

Oh I've been very close to that, I'm with ya there.

Is there anything else I can use to clean of the thermal paste other than isopropyl alcohol? Nowhere near me sells it.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol is the only recommended product really. You COULD use other solvents, but you are taking a risk as most of them are either too light and won't do a good job emulsifying the paste or are too harsh and might damage plastic or other components. Unless you live in a very undeveloped region, most everybody has some place near them that sells it. Pharmacies, drug stores, dollar stores, grocery stores, hardware stores and home centers all carry it. There's really nothing else I'd comfortably recommend for this purpose except maybe a very light mineral spirit, maybe.

 

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol is the only recommended product really. You COULD use other solvents, but you are taking a risk as most of them are either too light and won't do a good job emulsifying the paste or are too harsh and might damage plastic or other components. Unless you live in a very undeveloped region, most everybody has some place near them that sells it. Pharmacies, drug stores, dollar stores, grocery stores, hardware stores and home centers all carry it. There's really nothing else I'd comfortably recommend for this purpose except maybe a very light mineral spirit, maybe.

Ah righto then. I wasn't aware hardware stores sold it. Everywhere I searched said you could only find it in pharmacies. I managed to get most of it off the cpu and cooler with cotton swabs, and feck that took a lot of patience. I'll hopefully find some in the local hardware place and use it to finish the job then.

I'll double check the motherboard nubs like you said too to be extra safe then get the updated BIOS. Fingers crossed this solves the issues.

 

[Darkbreeze]

👍

 

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

👍

Good news: the bios updated without a hitch.

Bad news: the windows 10 installer is giving me the same errors again so I can only assume that means it's the USB. At least there's no blue screen or hard crash this time so that's something.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Which USB port are you using to try and install from? Maybe try another, or try all of them, first. Then, try creating the media all over again. Are you creating your media and proceeding as outlined in my tutorial?

How To - Windows 10 clean install tutorial

If you are looking for the Windows 11 Clean install tutorial, you can find that here: Windows 11 Clean install tutorial (Click here) Otherwise, welcome to the Windows 10 Clean install tutorial This tutorial is intended to help you, step by step, to perform a clean install of Windows...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

Which USB port are you using to try and install from? Maybe try another, or try all of them, first. Then, try creating the media all over again. Are you creating your media and proceeding as outlined in my tutorial?

How To - Windows 10 clean install tutorial

If you are looking for the Windows 11 Clean install tutorial, you can find that here: Windows 11 Clean install tutorial (Click here) Otherwise, welcome to the Windows 10 Clean install tutorial This tutorial is intended to help you, step by step, to perform a clean install of Windows...

forums.tomshardware.com

At first it was the USB port on the front of the pc but now I've been plugging it directly into the motherboard.

Yeah I've done most of the steps. It's when it gets to the actual installation that the issues start. I made sure to prioritise the USB and SSD in the boot bios, then when it came to the part where you select unallocated space it has two more partitions with it but only let's me delete one, then I select unallocated space, go through the whole thing of picking which version of Windows I want, it goes to the installation section and then gives me the error messages on the second loading bar when it reaches 12-13%.

 

[Darkbreeze]

This might be part of your problem. I would recommend downloading Gparted, create bootable media, use it to remove ALL of the partitions on the drive. Do NOT create new partitions. Do NOT perform any formatting. Just delete the partitions and remember to click on the required "apply these changes" before shutting it down. Then try the installation again.

GParted -- A free application for graphically managing disk device partitions

gparted.org

 

[Captain-Give-A-Hand]

This might be part of your problem. I would recommend downloading Gparted, create bootable media, use it to remove ALL of the partitions on the drive. Do NOT create new partitions. Do NOT perform any formatting. Just delete the partitions and remember to click on the required "apply these changes" before shutting it down. Then try the installation again.

GParted -- A free application for graphically managing disk device partitions

gparted.org

I'll do that now then. So I just put it onto the USB, plug it into the new PC and boot it normally, yeah? No need to go to BIOS or anything?

And again, I'm sorry to be bothering you with all this.