and yes, most probably cause, in my eyes is a defect with one of the eleconics on the motherboard, a capacitator or so, a badly soldered component, it can be alot of things. or it may not be that at all and then I'd have no idea of what it is
I don't think it is motherboard personally. It sounds like the Power button is connected backwards. I had a Rosewill case where the only thing that would happen when the button was wired up backwards is the power LED would come on and nothing else.
I don't think it is motherboard personally. It sounds like the Power button is connected backwards. I had a Rosewill case where the only thing that would happen when the button was wired up backwards is the power LED would come on and nothing else.
that was my first idea aswell(faulty wiring in general), (I didnt read through everything as I was absent of this forum for a week and this is quite a popular project) but I assumed that would have been checked already as that should be the first thing to check.
I don't think it is motherboard personally. It sounds like the Power button is connected backwards. I had a Rosewill case where the only thing that would happen when the button was wired up backwards is the power LED would come on and nothing else.
How would the power button plugged backwards make a difference? The only thing that's needed to power on a computer is shorting the two power pins.
No, MANY modern cases ground the front panel through the power button. This means the power button does in fact have polarity. VERY common. It is a VERY simple and safe way to ground the front panel. This is why it is widely popular.
Likewise all modern motherboards have a + and - label on the power switch pins.
I don't think it is motherboard personally. It sounds like the Power button is connected backwards. I had a Rosewill case where the only thing that would happen when the button was wired up backwards is the power LED would come on and nothing else.
How would the power button plugged backwards make a difference? The only thing that's needed to power on a computer is shorting the two power pins.
it's also possible that for example one of the power LED is connected to the power button connection,. seeing as a LED is a diode it wouldnt 'short' the system.
but I also think it's unlikely that the wiring is faulty as doney seems quite experienced with all this
I checked the wiring and the plugs on the header and reversed the plug, just in case and shorted the pins directly. No dice in any case.
Tomorrow I'm taking out of the case to breadboard and then I can work with it better.
BTW Tiny Voices. I read some reviews on the Thermaltake PSU I bought. The one I have, according to it's UL, is one of the well made and reliable ones(but only 350W) for a tier 3, not the junk OEM.
My eyes are not what they once were.
There's a lot of ent in me. I'm not one for hasty decisions.
wouldnt a tier 3 unit be more then good enough if it doesnt go near the 100% load?
Depends on the unit. Some tier 3 units are fine, but others are pretty awful. There is a WIDE range of units in there, which is why we generally recommend none of them.
Of course it is. But I can't get one locally and the price is great. I may order a couple to put away for future builds at that price.
I respect your view T.V., I respect the view of the one that suggested as much as a 10% improvement, so the scientist in me says TEST IT! Then I'll have the facts (Where's the Mad Scientist emoticon when you need it?)
There can be a 10% improvement, but not in gaming. Games are simply not coded to care about RAM speed.
An APU system which uses RAM for video memory will have a difference you can see, but on a normal system with an Intel CPU, you will have no difference at all