The purpose of water cooling is to make it run cooler and/or quieter than an air cooler counterpart. The H70 fails in that respect, and its big too.
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Might want to look into split cooling (aka. ductless split HVAC) with fan/s and cooling fin outside of house if noise is a concern.
Hose/PEX tubing, 1/4hp circulatory pump such as Taco or Grundfos, and a used car/motorcycle radiator ++ fan, can be had for $100~$150.
Hose/PEX tubing, 1/4hp circulatory pump such as Taco or Grundfos, and a used car/motorcycle radiator ++ fan, can be had for $100~$150.
blackmancer
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- Nov 29, 2008
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waste of a review - some overclocking would have been good. H50 results not included. and also testing it on a system that isn't 4yrs old....
cloudNINE
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- May 27, 2009
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Most room temps are NOT 21c. Most people prefer there base ambient room temp to be around 23-24c. And that's not if a woman is around, crank out another 2c on top of that if a cold blooded couch woman is around.
I used the Noctua NH-U12P SE2 120mm on my i5 at an average 24c room temp and my idle temps range from 29-31c. That is real world environment folks. 21c is roughly 69f, how many people will sit for long periods of time in those temps just so their PC runs cool?
My Noctua NH-U12P SE2 120mm load temps rarely go over 47c with a room temp of 24c. Just wanted to throw that bit of info in the comments, since 21c room temp is just plain unrealistic in most homes.
I've been considering trying out a prolimatech but my temps are fine using the Noctua NH-U12P. I'd like to see how this water cooler runs at normal household temps, not lab room temps. This article is a joke not only from the ambient room temp stand point, but an 840D chip? Those chips came out in 2005. I gave up my D series chip a LOOOOOOOOONG time ago. Gave my old D series system to my father who only uses it for email and Google Earth.
I used the Noctua NH-U12P SE2 120mm on my i5 at an average 24c room temp and my idle temps range from 29-31c. That is real world environment folks. 21c is roughly 69f, how many people will sit for long periods of time in those temps just so their PC runs cool?
My Noctua NH-U12P SE2 120mm load temps rarely go over 47c with a room temp of 24c. Just wanted to throw that bit of info in the comments, since 21c room temp is just plain unrealistic in most homes.
I've been considering trying out a prolimatech but my temps are fine using the Noctua NH-U12P. I'd like to see how this water cooler runs at normal household temps, not lab room temps. This article is a joke not only from the ambient room temp stand point, but an 840D chip? Those chips came out in 2005. I gave up my D series chip a LOOOOOOOOONG time ago. Gave my old D series system to my father who only uses it for email and Google Earth.
turbolover22
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- Jun 13, 2008
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[citation][nom]Marcel[/nom]Can it beat less expensive premium heatsinks?[/citation]
Is that really the question? You mean to say there was a possibility that this thing wasn't even better than air?
Is that really the question? You mean to say there was a possibility that this thing wasn't even better than air?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11743/ex-wat-159/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_Hot_Item.html#blank
This kit will spank the H70 and any air cooler for $130!!!
I say the tests here are biased because if you look at reviews of the H70 around the web, it doesn't beat a PM. It's as good as a decent air cooler, no more. I wonder how much Tom was paid.
This kit will spank the H70 and any air cooler for $130!!!
I say the tests here are biased because if you look at reviews of the H70 around the web, it doesn't beat a PM. It's as good as a decent air cooler, no more. I wonder how much Tom was paid.
nforce4max
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- Sep 9, 2009
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[citation][nom]D1RTYJU1C3[/nom]Someone explain why they are using a pentium D for the test.I want to see the results on 1366/1156 CPU not an old pentium d.[/citation]
If they are using a Netburst Pentium D then it doesn't take much for them once overclocked close to 4ghz to easily dump out the same heat as a GTX465/GTX470 but they won't last long like that as their power draws cause the vrm in the boards to weaken or fail. /shame on you for not knowing much about cpus.
If they are using a Netburst Pentium D then it doesn't take much for them once overclocked close to 4ghz to easily dump out the same heat as a GTX465/GTX470 but they won't last long like that as their power draws cause the vrm in the boards to weaken or fail. /shame on you for not knowing much about cpus.
nebun
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- Oct 20, 2008
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[citation][nom]kelemvor4[/nom]Have to agree with other sentiments expressed. If there are air coolers that match the performance of h70, then h70 is a failure at being much more than a gimmick.They should offer 240 and 360 models, 120 just doesn't dissipate enough heat.[/citation]
ok, just because you will have a bigger radiator it does not mean that the temps will be lower. with the rad you will also need to have a great cpu block and pump.
just for your info, i have a 360 rad with cpu and gtx480 sli loop and i am at 40 on idle and 70 fully stressed, not to mention my gpu is also 100% stressed. gpu temps are 37idle and about 51 loaded. like i said, the blocks and pump make a big diff, did i mention i am running a i7 920 (c0/c1) @4ghz with 1.43v core?
ok, just because you will have a bigger radiator it does not mean that the temps will be lower. with the rad you will also need to have a great cpu block and pump.
just for your info, i have a 360 rad with cpu and gtx480 sli loop and i am at 40 on idle and 70 fully stressed, not to mention my gpu is also 100% stressed. gpu temps are 37idle and about 51 loaded. like i said, the blocks and pump make a big diff, did i mention i am running a i7 920 (c0/c1) @4ghz with 1.43v core?
well got in my new v10 cooler master this week alto heavy and insanly big i migh found a life partner haha any ways its insanly good got the black edd 3,4ghz amd running a 220.0 MHz whit a multiplyer of X17.5 core clock at 3.85Mhz at maximum stress it can only go to 59c and that is on medium fan speed so i can pr make it up to 4.0ghz no sweat
kelemvor4
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- Oct 3, 2006
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[citation][nom]nebun[/nom]ok, just because you will have a bigger radiator it does not mean that the temps will be lower. with the rad you will also need to have a great cpu block and pump.just for your info, i have a 360 rad with cpu and gtx480 sli loop and i am at 40 on idle and 70 fully stressed, not to mention my gpu is also 100% stressed. gpu temps are 37idle and about 51 loaded. like i said, the blocks and pump make a big diff, did i mention i am running a i7 920 (c0/c1) @4ghz with 1.43v core?[/citation]
Hey, I fully understand there is more to it than JUST the rad size. I went after the rad size because it would be easy for them to offer multiple kits with different size radiators and even with a custom water solution with a high flow pump, 1/2 inch tubing etc a 120 isn't going to do a ton.
I'm not really on board with the comment about blocks though, all it has to do is transfer heat from the chip (or spreader) to the water. I run some relatively inexpensive danger den blocks on my xeon 5520's and they do nicely. I ran a crummy gigabyte copper block on my core2 quad build before that. IMO, radiator, fans, tubing, pump are all much more important than the block you select.
In any event, I've often said it would be nice if companies would offer simple yet good cooling solutions. This is a nice attempt; it's definitely simple. But it needs a few more options to make it more than a gimmick. Without detailed specs on each part of H70 its tough to accurately pinpoint the best place to put an upgraded component. Small radiator stuck out as an easy target to me is all.
Hey, I fully understand there is more to it than JUST the rad size. I went after the rad size because it would be easy for them to offer multiple kits with different size radiators and even with a custom water solution with a high flow pump, 1/2 inch tubing etc a 120 isn't going to do a ton.
I'm not really on board with the comment about blocks though, all it has to do is transfer heat from the chip (or spreader) to the water. I run some relatively inexpensive danger den blocks on my xeon 5520's and they do nicely. I ran a crummy gigabyte copper block on my core2 quad build before that. IMO, radiator, fans, tubing, pump are all much more important than the block you select.
In any event, I've often said it would be nice if companies would offer simple yet good cooling solutions. This is a nice attempt; it's definitely simple. But it needs a few more options to make it more than a gimmick. Without detailed specs on each part of H70 its tough to accurately pinpoint the best place to put an upgraded component. Small radiator stuck out as an easy target to me is all.
kelemvor4
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[citation][nom]photog10[/nom]http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] html#blankThis kit will spank the H70 and any air cooler for $130!!!I say the tests here are biased because if you look at reviews of the H70 around the web, it doesn't beat a PM. It's as good as a decent air cooler, no more. I wonder how much Tom was paid.[/citation]
It's a decent kit given the price (even though it still doesn't include everything you need like H70). I don't see it as bias, though. The H70 has one MAJOR advantage over this kit. Ease of use. I've installed several water kits at this point on my systems. They're all a pain in the butt, and leave me worried about leaks even after leak tests (I only use non conducting coolant for that reason). Ease of use is a factor that is been long overlooked in water cooling, and although H70 isn't quite there - I think it's a good attempt at rectifying the biggest problem in water cooling.
You could probably install the H70 in under 5 minutes with limited technical knowledge, and be confident that it will be leak free at the same time. If it would just dissipate a LITTLE more heat, it would be truly awesome.
It's a decent kit given the price (even though it still doesn't include everything you need like H70). I don't see it as bias, though. The H70 has one MAJOR advantage over this kit. Ease of use. I've installed several water kits at this point on my systems. They're all a pain in the butt, and leave me worried about leaks even after leak tests (I only use non conducting coolant for that reason). Ease of use is a factor that is been long overlooked in water cooling, and although H70 isn't quite there - I think it's a good attempt at rectifying the biggest problem in water cooling.
You could probably install the H70 in under 5 minutes with limited technical knowledge, and be confident that it will be leak free at the same time. If it would just dissipate a LITTLE more heat, it would be truly awesome.
d1rtyju1c3
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- Sep 1, 2010
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All I can say is Whhaaaattt! Does anything you just said have a point?
I know plenty about CPUs. This review was not to show that if the H70 can cool a Pentium D that it could cool the GTX465/470.
The CPU is old and while I am sure that some people may still be using this old CPU that is not what people want to see in a review they want to see new hardware used on a new CPU at base and OC freq. I know that if the H70 will cool the Pentium D 840 then it will cool the i7 920 but we want to see numbers on the new not the old.
I am not saying it was a bad review, not great but if you are going to do a review on a newer cooler use a newer CPU.
Before anybody posts about my first comment again. It was a sarcastic remark.
reaper2794
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- Sep 6, 2010
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Anyone mind educating me a bit on these types of systems? I believe the way the liquid cooler works is by drawing the heat to the coolant am I correct? But how does the coolant inside stay cool? and the tubes around it, doesn't that make it harder for the air to get drawn towards it?
kelemvor4
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The heat goes from the heat spreader on the cpu to the "water block" that you place in physical contact with the cpu. The heat transfers from the cpu to the water block. The water block has some sort of fins or pins on the inside that the water flows through transferring the heat from the water block to the water (or other liquid coolant). The water is pumped through tubes into the radiator. The heat is transferred from the water to the radiator. The fans use air to cool the radiator like any other heatsink/fan device. Cool air cools the radiator, while warm air is exhausted to the outside of the case.
There's a lot more technical descriptions that could be made to improve accuracy, but I think that's a general rundown of how a water cooling system works. Exactly the same as in a car with a radiator, fan, pump, and water block (aka engine block).
The net effect will be that the whole loop will get warmed to some degree, but if the radiator/fan is dissipating enough of that heat into the air it won't be a problem for any component involved. I have no idea what the melting point of the pvc/rubber that's used in these loops are, but I'd bet you'd fry your cpu (or more likely just trigger the thermal protection features) before actually melting the rubber tubing if it came to that.
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