[SOLVED] Cpu cooler question r5 2600

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heavymetal2000

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Oct 28, 2012
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So the hyper 212 evo I currently have is old model pre am4. It doesn't have am4 brackets and the bracket kit is eithe impossible to find or overpriced af eith shipping on ebay?

Anyways, I have the ability to sell it for 30$ and grab a wraith prism that's still bnib.
I actually like the way it looks through a glass panel so I'm curious if itll be any good?
I'd like to run my 2600 at 4ghz for gaming. The prism should keep it plenty cool and not be overly loud right?
 
Solution
HWmonitor, Open hardware monitor, Realtemp, Speccy, Speedfan, Windows utilities, CPU-Z, NZXT CAM and most of the bundled motherboard utilities are often not the best choice as they are not always accurate. Some are actually grossly inaccurate, especially with certain chipsets or specific sensors that for whatever reason they tend to not like or work well with. I've found HWinfo or CoreTemp to be the MOST accurate with the broadest range of chipsets and sensors. They are also almost religiously kept up to date.

CoreTemp is great for just CPU thermals including core temps or distance to TJmax on AMD platforms.

HWinfo is great for pretty much EVERYTHING, including CPU thermals, core loads, core temps, package temps, GPU sensors, HDD and...
Can free return the deepcool though so I might.
I actually really like the other 2 coolers the white fans on the phantek arent my favourite but cool and quiet is what I'm lookin for.
I want to be sure that while I'm gaming I have no fan noise seeping through my headphones if possible.
May actually grab the phantek one instead now.
 
Ok so the cooler arrived yesterday, and I decided to install it today.
I'd say the rgb function is a let down so far.
The color transition is abrupt and it doesn't support multicolor. Kinda disappointed in that aspect.

Idle temps are slightly lower maybe 2-3 C°
Around 27 C° in ambient temp of 21C°.

Underload it's definitely improved.
I'd say on average I'm running 6-8 C° cooler then the stealth in a lot of cases the gap is larger while gaining.
(I havent done any benching).

Strangely though, I noticed that since I installed the cooler and fired the PC back up my r5 2600 runs at turbo speeds even when the pc is idle and the fan is running at 1100rpm all the time.
Why would this happen after changing from the stealth to this?
 
Idle temps are irrelevant (Unless they are abnormally high) and for 99% of coolers will be within a few degrees Celcius regardless of the cooler model or type of cooler used.

I would double check, and perhaps adjust, the CPU_FAN header profile in the bios to be sure it's set to either silent or create a custom profile depending if your BIOS supports one. Most these days do.

Also, you've got two different fans you are comparing, and the minimum RPM at any given curve voltage is likely different. The minimum RPM on the stealth cooler might have been different than the minimum for that cooler, and based on what profile is set in the bios your new cooler may need to be optimized if your bios supports that or simply, as I said, set a new RPM curve for various thermal points. That is always the best option when it's supported.

I'd also make sure the fan connector for the cooler is correctly installed on the four pins of the CPU_FAN header, and not mistakenly over by one pin or reverse of what it should be. Make sure as well that you actually connected the CPU cooler fan TO the CPU_FAN header, and not another header by accident.
 
Fan is hooked to cpu fan header.
Its installed correctly on the 4 pins and is in right side up with the 2 posts sliding arou d the 1 tab that insures proper install and orientation.

Turns out from further inspe tion that CAM is what's lying to me?

What's the better programs to use to monitor gpu and cpu temps and clocks etc??
 
If you were smart, you'd get rid of CAM altogether unless you absolutely have to use it.

https://support.camwebapp.com/forum...s/19538782-fully-offline-mode-for-cam-privacy


Plus, it's no more accurate than it's implementation of the CPUID data, which is not very good in CAM I'm afraid. Much better is HWinfo, not to be confused with HWmonitor. Download HWinfo, install it and choose the "Sensors only" option when you open HWinfo.
 
HWmonitor, Open hardware monitor, Realtemp, Speccy, Speedfan, Windows utilities, CPU-Z, NZXT CAM and most of the bundled motherboard utilities are often not the best choice as they are not always accurate. Some are actually grossly inaccurate, especially with certain chipsets or specific sensors that for whatever reason they tend to not like or work well with. I've found HWinfo or CoreTemp to be the MOST accurate with the broadest range of chipsets and sensors. They are also almost religiously kept up to date.

CoreTemp is great for just CPU thermals including core temps or distance to TJmax on AMD platforms.

HWinfo is great for pretty much EVERYTHING, including CPU thermals, core loads, core temps, package temps, GPU sensors, HDD and SSD sensors, motherboard chipset and VRM sensor, all of it. Always select the "Sensors only" option when running HWinfo.

In cases where it is relevant and you are seeking help, then in order to help you, it's often necessary to SEE what's going on, in the event one of us can pick something out that seems out of place, or other indicators that just can't be communicated via a text only post. In these cases, posting an image of the HWinfo sensors or something else can be extremely helpful. That may not be the case in YOUR thread, but if it is then the information at the following link will show you how to do that:

*How to post images in Tom's hardware forums



Run HWinfo and look at system voltages and other sensor readings.

Monitoring temperatures, core speeds, voltages, clock ratios and other reported sensor data can often help to pick out an issue right off the bat. HWinfo is a good way to get that data and in my experience tends to be more accurate than some of the other utilities available. CPU-Z, GPU-Z and Core Temp all have their uses but HWinfo tends to have it all laid out in a more convenient fashion so you can usually see what one sensor is reporting while looking at another instead of having to flip through various tabs that have specific groupings.

After installation, run the utility and when asked, choose "sensors only". The other window options have some use but in most cases everything you need will be located in the sensors window. If you're taking screenshots to post for troubleshooting, it will most likely require taking three screenshots and scrolling down the sensors window between screenshots in order to capture them all.

It is most helpful if you can take a series of HWinfo screenshots at idle, after a cold boot to the desktop. Open HWinfo and wait for all of the Windows startup processes to complete. Usually about four or five minutes should be plenty. Take screenshots of all the HWinfo sensors.

Next, run something demanding like Prime95 version 26.6 or Heaven benchmark. Take another set of screenshots while either of those is running so we can see what the hardware is doing while under a load.

*Download HWinfo


For temperature monitoring only, I feel Core Temp is the most accurate and also offers a quick visual reference for core speed, load and CPU voltage:

*Download Core Temp

"IF" temperature issues are relevant to your problem, especially if this is a build that has been running for a year or more, taking care of the basics first might save everybody involved a lot of time and frustration.

Check the CPU fan heatsink for dust accumulation and blow or clean out as necessary. Avoid using a vacuum if possible as vacuums are known to create static electricity that can, in some cases, zap small components.

Other areas that may benefit from a cleaning include fans, power supply internals, storage and optical drives, the motherboard surfaces and RAM. Keeping the inside of your rig clean is a high priority and should be done on a regular basis using 90 psi or lower compressed air from a compressor or compressed canned air.

Use common sense based on what PSI your compressor is set to. Don't "blast" your motherboard or hardware to pieces. Start from an adequate distance until you can judge what is enough to just get the job done. When using canned air use only short blasts moving from place to place frequently to avoid "frosting" components.
 
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Solution
Fixed it, thanks. I haven't stickied anything, and haven't fixed any of my tutorials. Tutorials is all messed up because they haven't implemented the tutorial module yet so there are limitations on post length and number of images, plus the text sizing WAS all messed up and that's finally fixed I think, but it's almost pointless to bother working on any of that stuff until the tutorials work correctly. Should be nice once they get it done as we won't be as limited as we were before with tutorials on the old forum software and can actually make them full featured much like editorial articles and such. Until then, copy pasta.