CPU Fan - dusty and dirty

[Zoron]

I use an air compressor. As long as you don't use too much pressure, it's fine. I would say probably no more than 40 psi. Gets the dust out of there quite nicely and quickly.

 

[chuckshissle]

You can remove the cpu hsf if you have to to clean it well and do so at least once every month or two, unless if you have a filtered fans. Get rid of them dust with a can of compressed air. Dust in the fans could accumulate in the bearing or motor area and it may damage it or shortened it's bearing(s) or it's lifespan itself. Dust on the hsf radiator fins can accumulate and insulates the fins making it more harder to transfer heat from the fins to the air thus affecting it's cooling performance and increases heat as well as you cpu. Filter intake fans is good too but they restrict air flow depending on what type of filter is used. I personally don't use filter at and have maybe 2-5 degrees celcius cooler and I can clean my system every month.

 

[Sonic_Reducer]

well i clean computers every day, and i use an anti-static band straped at my wrist and conected to a big metal peice, my advice is unplug the computer then push the power button a few times just to clear all the capacitors just to be safe and wait a few minutes to get all clean of electricity and then use the a brush to clean the dust of the components and i use a vacuum with alot of care or compressed air if its' needed

in matters of your processor if it's a stock cooler it doesn't have any screws on it , it connects to the aluminium block my some plastic clamps on theirs sides if you don't want to take the hole cooler with care you must remove these clamps but it's kinda hard to take these clamps of without the hole cooler coming attached because the new intel system the cooler it's not screwed to the board just some plastic pins, but you can try I would recomend having some 90% or more alccol for cleaning and some new thermal paste to put if you remove the hole cooler. just my opinion 😉

 

[Pain]

Stock coolers may have screws, it just depends. Newer intel HS don't but there are a lot of stock coolers that do have screws.

 

[angry_ducky]

well, a lot of conflicting advice here! 8O
think i will do this inside and try to be as carefull as possible...i tend to unplug while doing anything inside of the pc and try hard as hell not to generate any static electricity. i dont have the hand wire gagdet to ground myself unfortunately but will try to keep a hand on the case i guess. Havent had a chance to clean the fan as yet, work is busy. Will do so on the weekend as I want the extra ram in there! i might try the vacuum but not right on any components, maybe just above not touching to pick up what it can....i mean, its never going to be 100% dust free but i will do the best i can.

Don't do it in a room with carpet. I don't want to start debating with wusy, but I'd rather use compressed air and unplug my PC even though I have a switch on the back of my PSU.

 

[Pain]

Yeah, good point. Don't shake the can and don't turn it upside down when spraying it. The instructions for proper use are marked on the can.

Unfortunately, the instructions for proper use of a vacuum cleaner inside a computer aren’t marked on the outside of the unit. So, you sort of have to know what you’re doing before you use it, or before you give improper advise. Wouldn’t you agree?

 

[JonathanDeane]

Unfortunately, the instructions for proper use of a vacuum cleaner inside a computer aren’t marked on the outside of the unit. So, you sort of have to know what you’re doing before you use it, or before you give improper advise. Wouldn’t you agree?

I call it 'common sense'. (and having a higher IQ than you guys 😛 )

I have to agree I cant count how many times I have used my vacume cleaner to clean out my or other peoples PC's... I do notice how ever since I moved up to a Dyson that wow I can get the insides to look almost like new I have used compressed air in a can but I found that it just seemed to move the dust around in the case 🙁 truely clean is vacumed !

 

[Grimmy]

I've used a regular vacuum to clean off the MB and HSF with a brush.

I leave my system plugged in (powered off), and never had static problems.

Nor have I read any articles saying to the extent.. my pc won't boot after I used a vacum.

I also remember companys selling PC vacuums:

Vacuum by 3M

 

[JonathanDeane]

I've used a regular vacuum to clean off the MB and HSF with a brush.

I leave my system plugged in (powered off), and never had static problems.

Nor have I read any articles saying to the extent.. my pc won't boot after I used a vacum.

I also remember companys selling PC vacuums:

Vacuum by 3M

yeah but thats a data vacume for sucking up data !!! lol kidding of course hmmmm I like it ! *adds to wish list*

 

[endyen]

Boy are you missinformed about electrocution.
An ungrounded system is far safer than the common cetre tap system used in north america.
See, electricity requires a pathway between to differently referenced voltage points. If, in an ungrounded system, you come in contact to one conductor, you dont get a shock, because there is no reference. As you know, in NA, if you touch an ungrounded conductor, you get a zap.
I believe that, in Saudi, they normally use a 220v ungrounded system. Unfortuneatly it seems that contractors have been installing center tapped transformers, to take advantage of North American power tools, and appliances.

 

[Pain]

I leave my system plugged in (powered off), and never had static problems.

Nor have I read any articles saying to the extent.. my pc won't boot after I used a vacum.

I also remember companys selling PC vacuums:

Vacuum by 3M

You may not have noticed any static, but that doesn't mean it wasn't there. I linked to articles that mention it, and I also linked to an anti-static vacuum. I've given links and shown that what I am saying is correct. I am not saying you all should just stop doing what you are doing, but when people said I'm bs'ing and don't know what I'm talking about, then I found information to back it up. If anyone has articles or references that dispute it, I am truely interested in seeing them. Seriously, I would like to see them.

Boy are you missinformed about electrocution.
An ungrounded system is far safer than the common cetre tap system used in north america.
See, electricity requires a pathway between to differently referenced voltage points. If, in an ungrounded system, you come in contact to one conductor, you dont get a shock, because there is no reference. As you know, in NA, if you touch an ungrounded conductor, you get a zap.
I believe that, in Saudi, they normally use a 220v ungrounded system. Unfortuneatly it seems that contractors have been installing center tapped transformers, to take advantage of North American power tools, and appliances.

Um, no, I'm not misinformed about electrocution. I already explained that electricity moved between 2 different potentials. And, in NA if you touch an ungrounded conductor (what ever that means, I guess you mean uninsulated) you only get a shock if you are actually grounded yourself. i.e. if you are standing in a puddle of water on a concrete floor and you touch an uninsulated hot wire, you get a shock. OR, if you standing on a concrete floor and pick up an ungrounded metal-cased tool that has a short circuit causing the case to be hot, then you also get a shock...or you die.

If you are not grounded and you touch an uninsulated wire or a faulty ungrounded tool, you won't know about it unless you are also touching a ground with your other hand.

The reason for the grounding system in NA and probably other parts of the world is because people were dying. Look it up.

There is also something in NA called a ground fault interupte, but it's only required to be used in outside electrical outlets, and in other selected areas inside, like the kitchen, bathroom, garages and unfinished basements. But, that's a whole other discussion.

Now, let me ask you a question. The guy above who lives in Saudi said he gets a constant shock when he touches some metal part on his machine, and it's not a static discharge but a prolonged shock. What would cause that?

 

[Grimmy]

Gawd.. are you trying to save the world?

Okay, I admit you have some points to take in consideration.

But it doesn't change the fact that I haven't had any problems with any of my PC(s) by using a vacuum cleaner on them.

Or using compress air.

Geesh....

 

[Pain]

No, I'm not trying to save the world, but when people tell me I'm full of it when I'm not, I take it personally. I made a simple statement at the start and people jump down my throat, because 'they've done it like this for years, so they must be right and I must be wrong'

People come here to talk about hardware, not beat their chest and throw feces at each other. Or, at least, that's why I come here (hardware, not feces)

 

[endyen]

FYI ungrounded conductor means a current carrying conductor, that is not bonded to the earth. (generally the black wire, in a two wire cct).The grounded or "identified" conductor is generally white.
The reason we have a centre tap, is to allow two different voltages from the same source. The bond to ground is to keep the lower votages equal and constant.
The most common cause for electrocution, is an electric lawn mower failure. In Europe, where they use an ungrounded system, this is unheard of.

 

[Pain]

And preventing people from doing it just because of some theory is not alright with me either.

It's not a theory, and I'm not preventing anyone from doing it. I already said that.

The reason we have a centre tap, is to allow two different voltages from the same source. The bond to ground is to keep the lower votages equal and constant.

The reason for the ground in a 220V panel is so we can have 110V, you are right. The reason for a center tap in an 110v outlet/switch box is to provide a ground to the metal outlet/switch box, and/or to provide a case ground to devices equiped with such a ground lug.

 

[endyen]

The centre tap is on the transformer, not in the device box. The wire that attaches to the device box, is a bonding conductor. It's purpose is to minimize the problem caused by having the system voltage referenced to ground. (electric shock)

 

[Pain]

Yeah, OK. I used the term center tap in the panel/outlet box because it gets tied to ground in the panel. When you said center tap I mistook that you were saying that was the ground lug on the outlets.

In any case, what I've said about the grounding in the user accessable areas in a typical NA house and the reasons for case grounding is correct. The ground wire is to bond the metal boxes to earth ground [if they are metal], or to provide a ground to the outets/switches and the ground lug on the 3 prong outlets.

 

[Flakes]

If I were to recommend using a brush at all, I would say to use a natural fiber brush, and dampen it before using it, but of course dabbing the excess water off so the bristles are just damp. Nylon/plastic bristles will generate static.

ok i cant leave this.....you worry about static, yet then go and tell people to use a damp brush this is more dangerous.

personnally i never bother with any grounding lol, ive not fried anything yet.

static burning out components in computer = i dare to say it just seems like a myth to me.

 

[Pain]

How is a damp brush more dangerous? If it is, tell me. A damp, natural fiber brush may be less likely to cause static that other materials. If not, let me know to correct the situation.

I don't personally use any brushes, but I'd like to know why I'm wrong.

As for static damaging devices, I've only had one time in 25 years that I would even speculate static caused a failure in a computer I was working on. [Added: Actually, twice. Once I couldn't say for sure why the machine suddenly failed, the second time I zapped a sound device when I plugged in an audio cord, there was a static discharge, and the device took a dirt nap.]

But, with that said, proper handling procedures and grounding equipment were devises because someone proved there was a need...or, because the government needed something to legislate. :lol:

 

[Grimmy]

I've read that static electricity can mess things up (break, or make chipsets unstable)...

If you feel static discharge.. thats around 3000 volts

If you hear the pop on discharge, that is around 6000 volts

If you see the arch when you discharge static, that is around 9000 volts.

So if you discharge less the 3000 volts, you would never know if you let off 1000 vots on a 5 volt or 12 volt component.

Please don't think 3000-9000 volts will kill you.

But as far as static forming from vaccum or compressed air, that is out of site and feel.

I agree damping brush bristles can do more harm then good.

 

[Pain]

Again, please tell me why a damp natural fiber brush is more dangerous than a dry brush, natural fiber or other. If it's because you are using water in a computer, I'm not suggesting to use a saturated brush that leaves large amounts of water in the machine. We're not painting a fence. You're just going to get the bristles wet and then ring them out completely so they are just barely damp.

If there is another reason why a slightly damp brush is bad, tell me.

 

[Grimmy]

Well, if you want my honest opinion, your nic fits you nice. Your being a pain.

Like I have stated before, I've used a reg vac on my PC's. I don't see the point in dampening the brush for god sakes. Unless I am really paranoid that I'm going to distroy my MB.

Show us some links that PC's have be broken from vacuuming it, and that damping the brush solves that problem.. can you do that?

Other wise the links you had, for vacuums that disapate static is pretty useless to even consider.

 

[Pain]

Nope, I have no links that dampening the brush will solve the problem, or that vacuuming the computer has ever damaged anything. I have links to anti-static vacuums, which suggests there is a reason to have them, and it is also well established that static can cause damage to electronics. So, one can conclude that vacuuming may cause such damage. I supplied 2 links that said the same thing, but I didn't just read that information and parrot it back here, I had know it from my previous work experience. If you don't wish to believe it, don't.

I also said if I were going to suggest using any type of brush at all, I would use a natural fiber brush, damped slightly. That's all I said. If you don't want to do it, don't.

Then when told a dampened brush was more dangerous I asked why it was more dangerous because I'm sincerely interested. That's all.

If you don't want to have a discussion on the subject, then don't. Stop reading my posts. I on the other hand have asked politely for any material to disprove what I've said, because I'm interested in learning. If you aren't, fine. I personally participate on forums to help others, and to learn myself. If I didn't learn anything on forums then I wouldn't bother reading them, it would be a waste of my time. Just like it would be a waste of my time to assume I know everything and not be open minded to other peoples ideas and suggestions, just because it's not what I have done for years.

 

[Grimmy]

If you want a to provide a good discussion is one thing. I was replying to Flakes to begin with, then you re-ask the same question to me.

I didn't say you were wrong, though I don't think I'm wrong in cleaning my PC with a regluar vaccum. And I find it pointless to dampen the brush.

Here are links that vacuuming can be used.. even with compressed air to blow dust off, and use the vacuum to suck it in..

http://www.creativepro.com/printerfriendly/story/16773.html

http://www.smartcomputing.com/Editorial/article.asp?article=articles/2004/w1509/48w01/48w01.asp&guid=

Keep The PC Clean

A clean PC cuts down on downtime, repair bills, and minimizes health risks. Keeping your computer clean is a simple process: Put a splash of warm, soapy water on a rag to remove dust and grime from the case, printer, mouse, and other external components. Dust the surfaces around the computer, too. This will mean the fans will suck less dust into the computer.

If you are comfortable opening your PC's case, you may want to do so every year or so (or whenever you have it open for upgrades) to clean inside it. You're likely to find accumulations of dust the size of small mammals around the internal fans, on the motherboard, and add-on cards. You can use small vacuum cleaner attachments and a small paintbrush to remove them. A can of compressed air can blow out the detritus.

To clean the monitor without leaving streaks, pour Windex or a solution of white vinegar and water on a lint-free cloth (such as one for cleaning eyeglasses) and wipe it on the screen. Never pour or spray liquid directly onto any PC component. Wet the rag instead.

Computer keyboards are among the most germ-infested workplace surfaces. A good, low-tech keyboard-cleaning technique is to turn it over and shake it. You may be disgusted by the quantity of skin flecks, food particles, and other muck that has collected in it. You can use compressed air to blow out any gunk that remains. Then, use a disinfecting wipe or bleach solution on the keyboard, mouse, and desktop to kill the bacteria and viruses that they harbor.

Edit: added the quote since you do need to find it, heh.

I've found so far, that you should not touch components, and that it is done on your own risk.

And I remember only using the vacuum on the inner/bottom PC case, MB traces, all cards, their backsides, and HS(F)...

So perhaps technique should be considered more then anything.

 

[Pain]

I replied to you only to ask why you said using a damp brush would do more harm than good. I probably wasn't clear at first that I meant a slightly damp brush, one that would not leave water in the machine, so I was clarifying what I meant by damp as much as I was asking why there may be a problem with doing it or why it was more dangerous.

Edit to your edit above: Yeah, I saw the paragraphs you were referencing. I think that's probably as safe as you can be, blowing the dirt up and catching it with the vacuum. I think that's better than using a brush attachment on your vacuum and using it directly on your components.