Question CPU FAN ERROR

Mal Vaxine

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Nov 28, 2020
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My pc didnt have any problems until yesterday. I didnt change anything in either software and hardware but yesterday i keep having this error and i cant boot into pc.

Cpu fan is still working physically but its not detected by BIOS. Plus the cpu temp keeps rising. What might be the problem? Also note that the cpu fan is performing well but louder than usual.
 

Karadjgne

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Plug the fan into the cpu_fan header, where the pump is wired to now. Plug the pump into where the fan just came from.

That'll get rid of the cpu fan error and allow you to get into bios. In there look for the 'fans' as such and you should see several sys_fan and a cpu fan. Look for the header that's reporting between 2000 and 4000rpm.

If there isn't one, just the cpu and another intake fan, then it's likely the pump has failed. Keep an eye on the temps. Normally in bios they'll read 40-50°C±. If they head higher than that and keep climbing, pump is toast.
 

Mal Vaxine

Prominent
Nov 28, 2020
5
0
510
I did just that and it fixed the cpu fan error but after that cpu over temp happens.

FAN profile:
CPU fan: 3700 RPM~
CHA1: 980 RPM~
CHA2: 1100 RPM~

CPU TEMP: 88-89 DEGREES STUCK
CPU CORE VOLTAGE: 0.816~
MOTHERBOARD TEMP: 29 C stable

even in bios the temp kept rising and its stable 89 degrees rn.
 

Karadjgne

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That's odd. Fans do not spin at 3700rpm, not standard pc fans anyway. Those hockey Puck pumps will and do spin at 2000-4000 rpm.

At those temps, the fan attached to the radiator should be at 1200-1500rpm

Something just isn't right, but either way, I'd say the whole contraption has kicked the bucket, but not being able to see it physically, that's a guess from experience.

Not knowing your level of competence in pc maintenance/repair, it's time to visit the repair shop or a friend who Is competent.
 

Paperdoc

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Karadjne is quite right. The key point of that post is that this is a DIAGNOSTIC procedure to help you identify the real problem. It includes gathering specific info.

To help understand this: the symptoms you cite really suggest that the PUMP has failed. THAT is the item that will show up in BIOS Setup as the "CPU Fan Speed" because what IS plugged into the CPU_FAN header is the pump. If it fails you WILL get CPU overheating even though the rad fans are working. Moreover, the normal monitoring of the device plugged into that CPU_FAN header will detect that there is NO "fan speed" and conclude that CPU cooling is NOT working, so it will not allow you to start up.

Karadjne's advice will put a working fan on the CPU_FAN header so it WILL allow a start-up, and will connect the actual PUMP to another fan header so you CAN see its speed reading, which should be over 2000 rpm. He specifically tells you to FIND that fan header and READ that "fan speed". NOTE that, if the pump really has failed so that the speed is zero, the CPU WILL overheat fairly quickly so YOU must look for that info right away after booting before the system shuts down again. A zero speed of the pump will confirm the suspected cause.
 

Karadjgne

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An aio or clc or liquid cooler or whatever name applies is at heart a closed loop cooler. It's a complete ecosystem into itself that requires all parts to be functional for the whole thing to work.

In the hockey Puck attached to the cpu is an impeller, a diaphragm and a motor. There's also coolant. If the impeller fails, the motor can still spin, showing rpm, but there's no coolant flow, pump has failed. If the diaphragm fails, you'll still see rpm, but there's no coolant exchange, pump has failed. If the motor burns out, 0rpm, pump has failed. If the coolant level is too low, motor shows rpm but there's no flow, pump has failed.

You need all parts to work in order to have the whole thing work. If at any point just 1 fails, consider the whole thing a fail. It's one of the drawbacks of liquid coolers, they have a limited lifespan and higher failure rate than air coolers.

The failure rate of liquid coolers is 100%. It not a matter of 'if' it will fail, it's a matter of 'when'. It will happen, but generally its @ 5-8 years of useful life, which is plenty for most ppl who buy a new pc by the time it's getting old.