Do I have a dead motherboard? No beep, no BIOS screen.

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It depends on who you were asking. If you were referring to me, I have a HP A6437C slimline desktop with a Foxconn mATX NAPA GL8E,Intel E2200 Pentium Dual Core 2.20 Ghz/IM/800/06. Mobo product #KJ400AA17 March 2008 Ser# MXU8120M9H. This board is very hard to find brand new. I guess Westom got burn't out on me. I may just for the heck of it purchase the same psu for my system & pop it in & see what happens. I have a lot of psu's lying around my computer room, but none with that same specs & wattage.
 


Adding pin numbers means you consulting someone else and therefore have made concluions from information not requested. That causes confusion. Adding to what I asked for only confused issues. Forget everything you provided to learn from what is provided below. Forget everything except what you saw on any one red, orange, yellow, green, gray and purple wire. And what you answered concerning the speaker. Now appreciate the massive - so much - information that came only from those requested voltages.

The power supply controller is ordering the CPU to execute. So finally we have accomplished only one thing. We know the power supply system is 100% (definitively) good. Only now can we move on to other suspects - and never look back.

What you saw from those numbers: when the power switch was pressed, green wire ordered the power supply to power on. The power supply sees all critical voltages obtain minimum values. Then we confirmed those value are sufficiently above what is required. Power supply tells the controller (via gray wire) to let the CPU start working. Entire power supply system is 100% good.

According to those numbers, your system is not consumed any significant power.

Next, CPU only looks at a very few system functions. It reads a first instruction from the BIOS to start setting up other functions. IOW you could remove all disk drives, sound cards, network cards, keyboard, mouse, etc and the CPU does not care.

The CPU starts by viewing only a few items, putting letters on the video (using the most primitive video functions), and announcing problems with speaker beeps. One of the first things checked is memory. If memory is not seen, then CPU beeps the speaker. Simply remove only memory boards. If CPU executes and if speaker is working, the CPU beeps that speaker using almost zero hardware. But CPU does not execute; it does not even beep the speaker.

( BTW: speaker – not the soundcard speaker. Soundcard is just as irrelevant as the mouse and disk drives. A tiny speaker on the motherboard that only beeps.)

No letters on the video. No speaker beeps. Now the numbers of suspects has been reduced from so many hundreds to maybe only 20. (Not even on the list of many hundreds suspects is disk drive, keyboard, etc - discussed later). Very few functions are necessary for a CPU to execute and beep the speaker. So now we have limited failure to maybe twenty suspects; and all are on the motherboard.

I assume you have connected the power connector near the CPU. Failure is probably in a tiny area of motherboard near CPU and adjacent large support chips - also called the Northbridge and Southbridge.

A failure that is visible almost never exists. But it is all you have left to inspect without far more advanced equipment. Inspect for stray metal fragments or anything that might short the motherboard in a region around the CPU and those large support chips. Carefully remove the motherboard looking for something (such as a metal standoff) that might have broken through a green coated solder trace. Maybe inspect for a cracked trace or some other mechanical defect in that area.

All but the rarest defect are not visible. We have reduced the defect area only to components in a small area of the motherboard. If the defect is not visual, you have no alternative but to replace the motherboard.

If I was to bet on a suspect (if I was a Roulette player), I would bet on a total failure of the CPU power supply - a function powered by the four (or six) pin connector near the CPU. That failure means a motherboard replacement.

You made analysis far more difficult by discussing things such as the keyboard lights. Keyboard, disk drives, etc all separate computers. Those computers do nothing to impede the main (motherboard) computer. Their actions mean nothing because the meter reported the only important fact.

The fact that the speaker did not beep means the CPU (or an adjacent function) is not operating.

Now, for that pci status board. Hopefully you always disconnected the AC power cord before installing or removing that board. Go back to what you saw on the purple wire. It was always 5 volts both before and after power switch was pressed. If you installed or removed anything when that purple wire had power, then you might have causes hardware damage. That caution even applies to the PCI status board. Always disconnect power cord before installing or removing any computer part or peripheral card. Another thing learned from those multimeter voltages.

Assuming the PCI status board is working, it would have posted some numbers as soon as the CPU starting executing. No numbers? Either that board was defective or it confirms what the speaker reported - CPU was never executing even after told to do so by the power supply controller.

Maybe search the internet for others whose HP Pavilion a6437c was disassembled in the computer junk yard - get that used motherboard.

Appreciate how much information was only in those six voltages (and why all that other information only made learning even more difficult). It took almost forever to get useful numbers. Excessively complicated by reading what others posted, listing pin numbers (which only confused everything), providing other useless voltages, discussing fan and describing keyboard and disk drive lights.

Also notice a fast analysis by disconnecting nothing until the very end (and then only the memory boards).

 
🙁 Sorry Westom if I didn't satisfy you 100% in getting the numbers the way you requested. But at least we accomplished something that far. I suspected the psu was ok in the first place since I installed the new one in its place & even went as far as installing the one in the HP in another one of my pc's & it worked as well in it. But the good thing is you taught me how to test one. Why do some boards have a little light on the boards & some don't. I think they all should have one onboard. For the pci card, or any other device plugging them into the board, I always power down the system & then unplug the psu & then puch the power button to draw all voltage from it. I watched the dvom while hooked to one of the pins with voltage & you could see the voltage slowly decreasing little by little. Thats why they say, never touch any portion of the board till it becomes stable.

You are a great teacher & should be a moderator. For the removing hardware one by one & removing the board for inspection, I did all that in the beginning. I pulled the board & put it on of my wifes cutting boards which by the way she didn't like it. Used my Radio Shack magnifying long arm device with lite that clamps to the desk & searched the whole board over for things you spoke of & the board was completely clean. If you noticed on the HP support site about my system, it is a pretty new system. Only been out since June 08. Thats for the mobo though.

I assumed the memory chips were ok & didn't have the funds to just go out & purchase one chip to see if that was the culprit. No other system in my room to use in them to test. Its hard to believe both chips would go bad together. You don't see it happen much, but it does from time to time. I even took an eraser & cleaned the contacts even though they looked clean.

The pci card when I turn on the system it starts flashing numbers rapidly where you can not read them. I forget what they call that, but I believe it is a normal thing at first. It has a 4 digit readout display. When resetting it again it displays a FF in the first window & cannot remember what displays in the second two windows but had numbers. I figured when I purchased it, I assumed it would have an instruction book to guide me but I had to go to the Awards site to get the list of numbers to see if any were in there. If you are a expert with one of these things it would be great if you could give me some guidance on recogniziing the numbers that displayed. I can reinstall it later & write down all the number & letters it displyed & get back to you later if you like.

You had already said if I heard you correctly the board was toast. I forgot to mention earlier, I did purchase a Celeron cpu that matched my specs & it did not help it a bit. Even went as far as inspecting the cpu pins on the board for any that would be out of place & they all looked in place. That magnifying glass comes in handy.

I'll close for now & hope to hear from you again later. Have a great day! David
 
> Why do some boards have a little light on the boards & some don't. I think they all
> should have one onboard. For the pci card, or any other device plugging them into
> the board, I always power down the system & then unplug the psu & then puch
> the power button to draw all voltage from it.

That light is typically reporting purple wire voltage exists; that the supply is still connected to AC and putting power on the board. However another type of light is for hot popping. Software makes changes and then turns on a light to says, "it is safe to remove that board while powered." Hot popping requires a special designed motherboard. Never saw one. But hot popping is a design found in military electronics. You have probably never seen a board designed for hot popping.

That PCI status board is displaying numbers output by the CPU as it executes the BIOS. Those numbers will be unique to the motherboard manufacturer. The card is simply a device to display those manufacturer numbers. When something in the BIOS locks, the displayed number is the function that has failed. But in your case, it appears the CPU is not even executing any BIOS - therefore no numbers to display OR garbage from a bus that is only wildly flaying - doing nothing constructive. With all bus bits at one, and a random spike on the clock line, the PCI status disply would show a number from the last clock line spike - FF.

The failure location includes CPU and motherboard circuits. CPUs are so robust as to almost never fail. A 'bet' made eariler, one failure point is a power supply dedicated only to and adjacent to the CPU. This supply, for example, must go from less than one amp to tens of amps - in only microseconds. A challenge. This supply is also additional protection for the CPU. Rarely is a CPU damaged. If an Intel CPU, you could remove the heatsink and it still would not be harmed. CPUs are that robust - rarely fail.
 
Very well put Westom. You must have a degree in some sort of course from college.You explain things in such detail that sometimes it hard to decifer. My hats off to you. OH!! I don't wear a hat. Gives me a headache. Thanks for the crash course on the psu. Have to get rested up for work tommorrow cause I have alot of diesel's to fix. That much I do know about. Have a great evening. David.
 
:hello: Greetings Nancy0725 & welcome to the board. Some of these boards have the jumper switch & not a pin is located on the back I/O board between the ps/2 port & the optical port. Others have it under the second graphics card but you have to remove it to gain access to it. Is yours a water cooled board? You can Google a question about your board & get some answers about anything about your board. 😉
 
For anybody still looking for why the motherboard doesn't give any beeps, let me share with you this little tidbit I found in my motherboard documentation:

After you plug in the main power connector, there is another one you may have missed.

The second connector will either be an 8-pin or a 4-pin. This is the auxiliary power connector found next to the CPU and you do not need an 8-pin plug there unless you are using a high end CPU, or if the system will be overclocked.

Failure to plug any 4- or 8-pin connector will result in the system not giving out any sort of display or POST signals.

Once I plugged in the 4-pin connector, I got my beeps. Check your motherboard manual for the pin-out to see if this is what you might be missing.

Hope this helps :)
 
🙁 Thanks for that tidbit phantomwrite as you would put it. Mine has the 4 pin & that's what I checked since its part of the board power source.

I wish I could have been as lucky as you in my testing my board. I would be so happy if someone had the same problem with theirs & fixed it & would share their story with me. Thanks again! :) David

Hey! moderators if your listening, I have a question for you. I'm looking for a post link for audio & video problems. Has to do with dvd movies from BB store & WMP or any video playing software playing choppy video & skipping sound problems. Like to add a post for it. Thanks for your help! David :)
 
Many posts above have already covered the symptoms and mine match them exactly, so no point in giving all the juicy details (if you are absolutely itching to know, my system specs are listed here, and I have an ATI X1300 in the PCI-E slot, 2x512MB of ram: identical sticks that have been there since the beginning).

I was just wondering if anyone has replaced the mother board yet and had good results, or if the problem persisted? I know some have changed power supplies with no improvement. I also know Westom would love for me to post lots and lots of numbers so he/she could post 19 paragraphs about how important they are, but a multimeter is going to cost me $99 while a new mother board is around $88, so I'd rather avoid that (although I would totally trust Westom to provide me with some interesting information if I did so... no offence intended Westom, but your posts are epic in length!).

I'll keep an eye on this thread and if I decide to take the plunge and buy a new motherboard, I'll certainly let you all know my results.
 
:) Hey! Areo_b! You said your system was the same? Not quite. Yours is an Athlon but if your having the same concern then you'll probably wind up having a bad mobo if you did the same testing. Man you don't want to get Westom started cause you may have to start a new post. I'm suprised this one hasn't been locked being so long.

I hated bumping Swampfoot off & I appoligize for that. He must have fixed his problem. I've already got my eye on the same Foxconn mobo for mine on EBay. I will be definately posting back when I get it installed & hope it gets it up & running. Can't be anything else that I can think of. Give us more detail on your problem. Might be something else nonrelated to mine or Swampfoot's.

Have a great weekend! :wahoo: David
 

50 posts to get you to use a meter. 30 seconds and two paragraphs to have a useful answer immediately after posting only six numbers.

A meter is less than $18. A fact easily learned when you do not entertain fear. Without the meter, then your problem is same as all other computer failures. It could be anything. You have three choices. 1) Get numbers using a meter. Then have an immediate answer. 2) Just keep replacing parts until something works. Or 3) just argue.

If you fear learning, then option 2 - spend wildly on new parts - is advised.

Once those six numbers were posted, compdude61 had an immediate answer. If you fear to learn, then replace parts using wild speculation. You might get lucky.
 
Okay i have read this tread (and a few others) but i have so far not found anything similar to the problem i got.

When i push the power button the fans start spinning, so does the hdds and the fan on the gfx but there isn't comming the usual beep meaning everything is okay, instead there comes nothing. the display stays in powersave-mode, also if i restart or re plug it. the keyboards numlock light doesn't get lit even if i replug it or press the numlock button.

i have tried taking all the hardware out to test them one by one, still it doesn't work. i also tried to clear CMOS and take out the battery, still no change. then i tested the beeper by trying first without any hardware at all, and it beeped saying it couldn't find any memory, then i tried with the memory mounted and no gfx, and here is the interresting thing, the beeper should say it can't find the gfx but it doesn't. When i then try with everything installed it still doesn't say it can find the gfx nor does it say it isn't there?!

I read all of the posts here and from what i can understand from westom, then the cpu is the one testing and posting POST beeps so it can't be the power supply controller failing. what could be wrong??

btw i tried to use another monitor and it stayed in powersave-mode aswell...
i also tried 2 other keyboards, 1 usb and the other ps/2 they didn't work either. the mouse on the other hand did glow blue as it's supposed to do (it's a razer lachesis).

if you need specs or anything then write...

it would be really, really nice if someone could help me out on this one..
 


You did shotgunning. You wildly disconnected or replaced parts. You tried to fix it rather than first learn what is wrong first get numbers and facts. You may have even made the problem exponentially more complex by doing things such as the cmos fixing or video card swapping.

You must disconnect or replace nothing. Then take voltage measurements. Your symptoms are classic of a defective power supply 'system' - and a few other things. Shotgunning says we replace all ten other things. Diagnostic procedure says we see what is wrong – then only replace one suspect. You made a useful reply difficult. Why? Your replies will only be as useful as the facts you provide. You provided no numbers. Just speculation from “I moved this and that happened”. You tried to do with eyes what cannot be seen. You speculated even about the power supply being good. A completely defective supply can even boot a computer. And can do what you have seen. Why do you know the supply is good? Speculation. You did not first get numbers.

Put everything back exactly as you started. Take the requested measurements of six critical wire before, and when the power switch is pressed. And then (which you cannot yet do) with the system under maximum load.

Solutions only happen when you break a problem down into parts - then analyze each part - one at a time. Until you have numbers that say the power 'system' is good, then you have no idea - no matter what beeps come from a speaker. Until the power ‘system’ is proven, everything else that is good can act strange or defective. The only answer is one that is definitive. No definitive answers are possible until you have moved the power supply system from ‘still undefined’ to ‘definitively good’ (or ‘definitively bad’). Notice the real world is not binary. Notice more than two possible conditions.

Numbers from those six wires are so chock full of information that the last five posts would be too short to explain it. Want to know where to look next? Post those numbers as explained previously.

Your symptoms imply the power supply is good AND that the power supply is defective, and that other parts of the supply system are good, and that other parts are bad. All possible without specific facts – especially numbers.

BTW, get rid of the battery tester. Had you tested the battery with a meter, then numbers could have said so much more. 'Red area' tells us nothing usefu. Battery could have been perfecty fine for now - and for the next six months. But we will never know. Your tester was subjective - did not provide numbers that could have said whether the battery contributed to the problem.
 
I was successful in fixing my computer. It now runs way better than the few weeks before the crash... my problem was the motherboard. I replaced it and kept everything else and it now works perfectly.

What follows doesn't belong here, but the information was somewhat hard to find so I'm reposting it here for good measure:

For those of you who have HPs with WinXP recovery disks, please note: HP keeps track of your hardware in a file on the recovery partition and you will get an error message ending with "Code Purple" when you try to recover Windows after replacing the motherboard. Code Purple prevents you from using the recovery disks on computers other than the one they were created from, so you need to stop the recovery process from checking your hardware configuration file.

Solution:

1. Recover Windows as usual (you will lose all data... hope you had a backup!)
2. Get to the file c:hp\bin\ConfigCheck\cfgchk.bak and rename it (or rename the run.py in the same folder)
3. Restart the computer and continue Windows setup.

Step 2 isn't too obvious to perform. I installed a linux distribution that had ntfs-3g included, then mounted the WinXP partition in linux and renamed the file through there. You should be able to do the same with a bootable linux distribution such as Knoppix (I think you can run Knoppix off the CD and get to the file, but I haven't tried).

Hope this helps.
 
Great areo_b.
I'm waiting for my board to arrive. Should be here tommorrow or Friday. Going on vacation starting Saturday & will have pleanty of time to install it & see if it will launch. Maybe i'll get lucky & just power it up without having to reformat my hdd.
I've been told it should boot right up being the same mobo.

It's the twin mobo that my system has in it except the hdd is only a 300gb & not a 500gb like mine. It came out of a A6600F HP desktop. It is only 6 months old. I sure hope it goes all well.

Thinking of sending the bad mobo to a shop to see whats up with it & have it fixed for a spare or sell it.

Glad to hear you got yours up & going. Enjoy!

Maybe you can say the same about mine soon.
 
Got my board in yesterday & plugging it in tonight. Was told by other forum members being the exact same board, it should boot right up if the board is functional.

Wish me luck! David
 
Well darn!!! I took the motherboard out of the package & Yo & Behold by inspecting it before I installed it I found some cpu pins damaged.

He did say he had to wiggle the cpu around to get it to boot to Vista. Got me to wondering.

I've learned my lesson.

That really tees me off!

I will get my refund I hope.
 
I gave up guys! Ordered another computer same model through HP products link for $269.00. Not too bad for a new computer & having a full 1 year warranty.
 
I've had the same problem with my computer as everyone else. The one anomaly that I have is the optical drives cycle. Also the power and reboot buttons don't work. My system has not suffered any BSODs but has been freezing lately. My system uses quality components - Corsair, EVGA, AMD Phenom x3, Thermaltake, Gigabyte MB, etc. Since all these systems are different but suffer from a very similar problem I think the common denominator will most likely be bad BIOS/CMOS chip. The manufacturers pretty much buy from the same suppliers and there my have been a bad run of chips. One other note that supports my theory my motherboard has a dual BIOS and the system with not POST or access the BIOS. My motherboard is is a Gigabyte GA MA770 UD3 rev. 1. The board was purchase 3 months ago but it is an old version of this motherboard. They released a Rev. 2 an I suspect the chips on the board have been improved.
 
I had the same problem more than 5 times. In three cases, all the components were new. In one case, It happened right after the RAM was replaced but the cpu still wouldn't boot after the old RAM was inserted. In the 5th case, the cpu just failed to boot - no boot, no beep, nothing on screen - after 2 months of use. In the other cases, i found that there
was some short between the motherboard and the case. (I disconnected everything from the motherboard except the processor, power supply,a stick of RAM, and the video cable and tested it out of the case.)

In all five cases, the system worked after the motherboard was replaced with the same model of motherboard. Now, the mobos were still under warranty so I sent the first 3 of them back for replacement but the Seller didn't find any defect and said the mobos were good. And true enough, when I tested them again they worked!Now I tested the other 2 mobos that I have already wrapped for replacement and they were already working. I think the problem was that the processor fan assembly was stressing the motherboard mechanically too much causing some components in the mobo to be disconnected. In the RAM replacement case, you see, you would push into the motherboard when inserting the stick of ram. So a solution here is to remove everything from your motherboard, maybe wrap it in a non-static bag if you still have one, then set it aside for a day or 2. Then test again. Of course, even if the machine works, you'll have doubts about its stability. That's why I'll still have my motherboard replaced if the seller would obligue.
 
:)
Thanks Areo_b for that valuable info.
Except mine has Vista on it.
I just got through last night purchasing a set of Vista recovery 5 cd set & I also found the same Foxconn NAPA GL8E board for my HP Pavilion A6437C machine.
Talked to HP chat the other night & they told me I would have to do the tattoo procedure.
Said I would get the ol' Code Purple message if I just pop the board in & hit the power button.
Thay also told me I would have to use the recovery cd's to get me back up & running again.
Why can't they just make things more simple these day's.
I don't have the income to just take my machine over to a computer shop & have them perform it.
Maybe you could help me get this prodedure done.
I'll be getting the board & cd's in a few days or by the end of the week. Sooner I hope.
HP told me to send the system to them once I got the board installed & they would take the hassel out of it all.
YEH RIGHT!!
I know how much they would take me for.
Would be more sutable to just go out & purchase another machine & be done with it.
I would but I want to learn more about this stuff.
I enjoy tinkering around with these machines.
Helps pass time away.
Help would be greatful!
David
 

I'm also having a problem like Op and Sathar. Home build working for 3 years with Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe with two Corsair 1GB sticks. I would get to BIOS post and then it would sit at a black screen for about 20 to 30 minutes, then finally show Windows loading screen, then usually work fine (occasionally freezing).
I ran diagnostics on RAM and HDD....all came back okay. I then tried experimenting.
I tried each 1 GB stick separately and they both worked perfectly. However, the problem would happen again if I put both sticks in together.
I was using SATA hdd's. I installed WinXP 2 times and still had the same problem. I installed WinXP on an IDE hdd, with SATA as secondary drive and everything works fine, even using both sticks of RAM.
 
I'm also having a problem like Op and Sathar. Home build working for 3 years with Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe with two Corsair 1GB sticks. I would get to BIOS post and then it would sit at a black screen for about 20 to 30 minutes, then finally show Windows loading screen, then usually work fine (occasionally freezing).
I ran diagnostics on RAM and HDD....all came back okay. I then tried experimenting.
I tried each 1 GB stick separately and this eliminated the issues. However, the problem would happen again if I put both sticks in together.
I was using SATA hdd's. I installed WinXP 3 times and still had the same problem. I installed WinXP on an IDE hdd, with SATA as secondary drive and everything works fine, even using both sticks of RAM.
 
To Swampfoot:

I have very similar symptoms. I have read through all of the posts and I'm going to order a new PS. I figure on ordering a quality one b/c I can always use it in my next box if it comes to that.

Back to my symptoms: Random power on problems. If I would shut down, I would have to unplug the the PS before the power button would power the box on. This started about 1 year after the box build and went on for a few months until this point. Now the fans and lights come on but the board will not POST or even bring up the BIOS. No video at all. MB just goes BEEP, BEEP, BEEP, BEEP constantly at the same beat (one per half second) and never stops. Its a Gigabyte board with nVidia chipset. I do not know the model---trying to find it on the board.

I will repost and say wether or not the PS fixed it.
 
🙁 Well amoebaman It looks as though for starters the mobo may be ok.
You might want to reset the bios if you know how to do that.
Then try a new PSU then post back.
Oh! You might want to give us your machine specs & if it has a PCI graphics card, list that as well.
Do you pay alot of high graphics games on it?
Thats where the graphics card comes in to play.
David :)
 
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