A passive crossover is generally difficult to design.
Although a single capacitor can be used with good results just to attenuate the lower frequency's to keep the step up transformers core from saturating causing distortion at the lowest frequency range.
A electronic crossover is much easier to use and design as most of the lumped reactances of the transformer and the panel can be for the most part be ignored as far as choosing the crossover frequency.
I run mine flat with every thing below about 100hz cut off.
Basically you need an amp that doesn't mind low impedance's and will stay stable with them.
As the frequency gets higher the impedance get lower and can get as far down as 1 or 2 ohms or lower sometimes at 20Khz.
This is a function of the Transformer residual capacitance+the panels capacitance and the step up transformation ratio as per frequency.
Generally for a frequency range of 200hz to 20Khz the impedance ratio (range) will be 100:1 as well.
A high impedance of 100 ohms won't be a problem or effect any of today's modern amplifiers.
Also if the leakage inductance of the transformer is too high combined with the total capacitance this can bring the resonant frequency of the transformer into the audio range and the amplifier see's this as a short circuit and creates a tremendous load on the amp as well.
So does saturation of the transformers core at low frequency.
There are ways to combat this as everything is a compromise.
We have gotten very good results by using some common toroidal power transformers used in reverse as step up transformers.
I have a whole thread dedicated to their design and how they work.
Generally two average sized panel around 4 square feet each can and will drive anyone out of a room when driven properly and will give any average woofer system a hard time to keep up.
They can be run fullrange as well but it takes a very large surface area to get any good bass out of them depending on your listening habits.
The sound of them is jaw dropping even for my little panels as I have yet to listen to mine in stereo in a long time since I built them in 2003.
Especially when I run them full range at low levels, as not to saturate the core at lower frequency's.
I am building a new set as the old ones in the pictures were just mainly used for R&D and they have finally expired.
He,he,he,he, Yes, I have burned them up.... Badly!
This has all been documented as to why in various threads.
But they cost me next to nothing to build and I can make 5 more pair for less than $15 or $20
Heck I have been working with my original set for nearly 10 Years now and have only had to replace the diagphram due to burn holes a few times.
This was caused from a failure in the stator coating and this has been solved as well.
Most use perforated metal to build with and this works great and is pretty fool proof.
But I use aluminium window screen as this is the cheapest method of construction by far.
I have had some difficulty along the way and have solved them since.
As I was pushing my little panels as far and hard as I could just to find their weaknesses at extremes of over 8Kv of bias voltage and over 20Kv peak to peak on the staotors in a .070" Diagphram to stator gap.
They were very very loud in excess of 110db at 1 meter.
And about 100db at 1 meter with a very finicky cheapy amplifier (that likes to shut down when it gets a difficult load) with only a 20v Peak to peak (10v peak)signal into a 256:1 transformation ratio.
This was the setup on the last frequency response test in the above link biamped with a 5 1/4" woofer.
A larger panel does not need these extreme voltages to get to this level of output as it has more surface area.
Thus requiring less work from the amplifier and a lower transformation ratio as well to keep the impedance in a happy range for the amplifier.
That is pretty much it in a simplified nutshell, but feel free to ask any other questions and I will do my best to answer them.
This type of stuff is on going in extreme detail at DIYaudio.
Enjoy !!!
jer