EM pinballs, which parts are OK to oil? Steppers/drop targ..

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

From my project blog at http://williamsgrandprix.blogspot.com/
Feel free to answer here on RGP or in a blog comment. Thanks!!

-------

Okey, I've read the PinballHQ EM repair guide, and it's pretty strict on
lubrication:

Electro-Mechanical machines, for the most part, do not require any
lubrication. Most parts run "dry". Far more damage can be done to a
machine by over-lubricating, than by under-lubricating. As a rule, if in
doubt as to lubrication, don't do it! ... The only parts that will
require any lubrication are metal-to-metal moving parts. There aren't
very many in an EM game. So keep that lubrication in the tool box and
away from the game.

So far I've stayed clear of any oil, but after going over some of the
stepper units and drop targets in the machine I'm starting to wonder if
maybe these classify as "metal-to-metal" moving parts. Small shafts that
are supposed to move without any friction are very slugish and almost
stuck, and I'm not sure how to fix this. They seem to have been oiled
some time in the past, but that might have been a mistake? So, should I
oil these parts, or should they be cleaned and sanded?

I'm spesifically talking about the drop target mechanical joints and the
shafts in the stepper units.

Oil, or no oil? And if no oil, what to clean it with to remove the old
oil and how to make it's movement smooth and without friction? I guess
that is the question.

Tor Arne

 

[BillB]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I use a little WD40 on moving parts.

--
billb
the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.

"Tor Arne Vestbø" <torarnv@stud.ntnu.no> wrote in message
news:ddj1sf$clg$1@orkan.itea.ntnu.no...
> From my project blog at http://williamsgrandprix.blogspot.com/
> Feel free to answer here on RGP or in a blog comment. Thanks!!
>
> -------
>
> Okey, I've read the PinballHQ EM repair guide, and it's pretty strict on
> lubrication:
>
> Electro-Mechanical machines, for the most part, do not require any
> lubrication. Most parts run "dry". Far more damage can be done to a
> machine by over-lubricating, than by under-lubricating. As a rule, if in
> doubt as to lubrication, don't do it! ... The only parts that will
> require any lubrication are metal-to-metal moving parts. There aren't
> very many in an EM game. So keep that lubrication in the tool box and
> away from the game.
>
> So far I've stayed clear of any oil, but after going over some of the
> stepper units and drop targets in the machine I'm starting to wonder if
> maybe these classify as "metal-to-metal" moving parts. Small shafts that
> are supposed to move without any friction are very slugish and almost
> stuck, and I'm not sure how to fix this. They seem to have been oiled
> some time in the past, but that might have been a mistake? So, should I
> oil these parts, or should they be cleaned and sanded?
>
> I'm spesifically talking about the drop target mechanical joints and the
> shafts in the stepper units.
>
> Oil, or no oil? And if no oil, what to clean it with to remove the old
> oil and how to make it's movement smooth and without friction? I guess
> that is the question.
>
> Tor Arne

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Using WD-40 is the *dumbest* thing you could use in an EM
game. Well, maybe the 2nd dumbest. Contact Cleaner is the
dumbest.

WD-40 is *not* a lubricant. It is a water displacer (that's
what WD stands for). it is designed to free frozen parts.
It either evaporates or turns to jelly in about 2 weeks,
meaning either you have done nothing, or you have made
things worse.

WD-40 is also EXTREMELY FLAMABLE. I have seen people spray a
game with WD-40 (or contact cleaner), turn it on and POOF!
game literially explodes in flames, usually blowing the
coin door open and sending a nice ball of flame out the
door, cooking your balls (if you're in the playing position).
That is *not* an exageration either. There was a guy that
posted here, fixing a game in his underwear and using one
of these sprays. He burned his pubic hair in the process.
He also started the underside of the playfield on fire,
ruining all the cloth wiring and hence ruining the game.

billb wrote:
> I use a little WD40 on moving parts.
>
> --
> billb
> the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.
>
> "Tor Arne Vestbø" <torarnv@stud.ntnu.no> wrote in message
> news:ddj1sf$clg$1@orkan.itea.ntnu.no...
> > From my project blog at http://williamsgrandprix.blogspot.com/
> > Feel free to answer here on RGP or in a blog comment. Thanks!!
> >
> > -------
> >
> > Okey, I've read the PinballHQ EM repair guide, and it's pretty strict on
> > lubrication:
> >
> > Electro-Mechanical machines, for the most part, do not require any
> > lubrication. Most parts run "dry". Far more damage can be done to a
> > machine by over-lubricating, than by under-lubricating. As a rule, if in
> > doubt as to lubrication, don't do it! ... The only parts that will
> > require any lubrication are metal-to-metal moving parts. There aren't
> > very many in an EM game. So keep that lubrication in the tool box and
> > away from the game.
> >
> > So far I've stayed clear of any oil, but after going over some of the
> > stepper units and drop targets in the machine I'm starting to wonder if
> > maybe these classify as "metal-to-metal" moving parts. Small shafts that
> > are supposed to move without any friction are very slugish and almost
> > stuck, and I'm not sure how to fix this. They seem to have been oiled
> > some time in the past, but that might have been a mistake? So, should I
> > oil these parts, or should they be cleaned and sanded?
> >
> > I'm spesifically talking about the drop target mechanical joints and the
> > shafts in the stepper units.
> >
> > Oil, or no oil? And if no oil, what to clean it with to remove the old
> > oil and how to make it's movement smooth and without friction? I guess
> > that is the question.
> >
> > Tor Arne

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

/<snicker>\....

Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
======================
billb wrote:
> I use a little WD40 on moving parts.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

HA HA HA!

I'm not sure what's more disturbing....

Getting your balls cooked, or someone fixing a game in their underwear.

There's some visual imagery I could do without!

Dave

 

[Phil]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Why is contact cleaner so dumb?

>From a Bally Malibu Beach operator's manual in 1980:

"All wiper assemblies (especially those with multiple fibre discs
installed) are very susceptible to electrical arcing when they are even
thinly coated with oil and dirt. Failure to eliminate arcing allows a
build-up of carbon traces and eventually burns a hole through the fibre
plate. The occurance of arcing shorts (which are very difficult to
trace and seriously disrupt associated circuits) is another consequence
of this condition. Regular physical inspection of wipers and discs will
reveal the tell-tale carbon traces that indicate arcing. All contacts
must be thoroughly cleaned and thinly coated with a spray-type contact
cleaner."

Bally was wrong? Do we know something now we didn't in 1980?

Phil

 

[frenchy]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Basically, any metal to metal is correct, things that pivot, rotate,
spin, or slide against. This includes stepper fingers and contacts
(very light smear of oil). If it nylon vs. nylon, or steel vs. nylon,
don't lube it but it must be CLEANED or the nylon will wear away it's
smooth surface. If it's just metal to metal that is simple latching
action like a relay catch, doesn't need lube but sometimes they can get
sticky so clean them if they do. I like to put a smear of oil on the
metal drop target arms that come down and slide along the score
switches for smooth operation, and the internal points where the thin
shafts go thru all the metal holes, but no nylon lubing, but again,
clean them well.
Things that require a little heavy lube (coin grease) are things like
counter unit gear teeth, score motor gear teeth, and any metal to metal
pivots that are really getting a pounding like relay and drop target
reset arms.
One exception is coin mechs, just clean the hell out of the pivots,
don't lube.
Sand metal parts? NO!

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

What I do:

Take the assembly apart. Clean every touching part, throw it back together
and adjust so it works, and just leave it. Oil will collect dust and produce
an insulating jelly.

--Eric

 

[frenchy]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I could have sworn I saw an older Bally manual somewhere say to smear
light oil on wiper contacts. Maybe the key in their warning is "oil
and DIRT...contacts must be thouroughly cleaned...". Gottlieb
definitely said to lube them. Ballys/Williams did use 50 volts vs.
Gottlieb's 25 so the former would be more likely to arc. But still,
I've never seen evidence of any arcing on any disc in 20 years except
those darn Gottlieb mini-counters with the contacts that are finely
spaced apart and the gunk builds up between them easily and the units
get heavy use in the games. Whereas I've seen tons of regular units
with the contacts worn thru to below the surface of the bakelight from
lack of lubrication - and no evidence of arcing .
Is a thin film of light oil really any more conductive than a thin film
of contact cleaner? Doesn't even contact cleaner have some thin
petroleum 'oil' in it?
I surmise if you clean them first, smear with any very light
lubricant, and KEEP them clean and lubed, you should have no problems.
And in home use the difference in wear between the oil and contact
cleaner would be moot anyway.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Right below is the answer to your questions!
Contact Cleaner = FLAMABLE. That means it starts on fire!!
Switch arcing is *exactly* why you do NOT use contact cleaner.
Maybe Bally was refering to another product, but they sure
were NOT refering to contact cleaner!

Besides, read the label on contact cleaner. it's for LOW VOLTAGE
applications. That's 5 volts. Not 50 volts. Not 30 volts. Not
12 volts.

Do you guys read any literate on fixing games written in
say the last 5 years? For example:
http://marvin3m.com/em/index1.htm#lub
or for those that can't read well, here's the picture version:
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/ccfire2.jpg
And do you guys every watch the "This Old Pinball"
videos on pinball repair? Specifically
http://marvin3m.com/top/top1.htm

cfh,
the quintessential time-waster of the written pinball word,
and time-wasting pinball videographer.

Phil wrote:
> Why is contact cleaner so dumb?
>
> >From a Bally Malibu Beach operator's manual in 1980:
>
> "All wiper assemblies (especially those with multiple fibre discs
> installed) are very susceptible to electrical arcing when they are even
> thinly coated with oil and dirt. Failure to eliminate arcing allows a
> build-up of carbon traces and eventually burns a hole through the fibre
> plate. The occurance of arcing shorts (which are very difficult to
> trace and seriously disrupt associated circuits) is another consequence
> of this condition. Regular physical inspection of wipers and discs will
> reveal the tell-tale carbon traces that indicate arcing. All contacts
> must be thoroughly cleaned and thinly coated with a spray-type contact
> cleaner."
>
> Bally was wrong? Do we know something now we didn't in 1980?
>
> Phil

 

[BillB]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

i put a little wd40 on the nylon stuff, it doesn't hurt and makes me feel
like i've protected it in some way. i also use wd40 to clean the gears in
the score motor prior to using a little gun oil on said gears.

--
billb
the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.

"frenchy" <mf101723@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1123885347.272505.269010@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> Basically, any metal to metal is correct, things that pivot, rotate,
> spin, or slide against. This includes stepper fingers and contacts
> (very light smear of oil). If it nylon vs. nylon, or steel vs. nylon,
> don't lube it but it must be CLEANED or the nylon will wear away it's
> smooth surface. If it's just metal to metal that is simple latching
> action like a relay catch, doesn't need lube but sometimes they can get
> sticky so clean them if they do. I like to put a smear of oil on the
> metal drop target arms that come down and slide along the score
> switches for smooth operation, and the internal points where the thin
> shafts go thru all the metal holes, but no nylon lubing, but again,
> clean them well.
> Things that require a little heavy lube (coin grease) are things like
> counter unit gear teeth, score motor gear teeth, and any metal to metal
> pivots that are really getting a pounding like relay and drop target
> reset arms.
> One exception is coin mechs, just clean the hell out of the pivots,
> don't lube.
> Sand metal parts? NO!
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

More BAD advice.

First WD-40 should NEVER be used in a pinball game as a lubricant.
It's flamable. It's not a lubricant. It turns to jelly.

Next Metal to Nylon contact NEVER gets lubrication in a pinball
game. Same deal with Nylon to Nylon, no lube. Metal to Metal
is sometimes lubricated, but it depends on the situation.

Billb please stop posting your bad game repair habits.
Do some research on the subject first.

billb wrote:
> i put a little wd40 on the nylon stuff, it doesn't hurt and makes me feel
> like i've protected it in some way. i also use wd40 to clean the gears in
> the score motor prior to using a little gun oil on said gears.
>
> --
> billb
> the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.
>
> "frenchy" <mf101723@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1123885347.272505.269010@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> > Basically, any metal to metal is correct, things that pivot, rotate,
> > spin, or slide against. This includes stepper fingers and contacts
> > (very light smear of oil). If it nylon vs. nylon, or steel vs. nylon,
> > don't lube it but it must be CLEANED or the nylon will wear away it's
> > smooth surface. If it's just metal to metal that is simple latching
> > action like a relay catch, doesn't need lube but sometimes they can get
> > sticky so clean them if they do. I like to put a smear of oil on the
> > metal drop target arms that come down and slide along the score
> > switches for smooth operation, and the internal points where the thin
> > shafts go thru all the metal holes, but no nylon lubing, but again,
> > clean them well.
> > Things that require a little heavy lube (coin grease) are things like
> > counter unit gear teeth, score motor gear teeth, and any metal to metal
> > pivots that are really getting a pounding like relay and drop target
> > reset arms.
> > One exception is coin mechs, just clean the hell out of the pivots,
> > don't lube.
> > Sand metal parts? NO!
> >

 

[BillB]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

that's true, I only have 20 years of experience, what the hell do I know.

--
billb
the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.

<cfh@provide.net> wrote in message
news:1123932224.308511.325640@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> More BAD advice.
>
> First WD-40 should NEVER be used in a pinball game as a lubricant.
> It's flamable. It's not a lubricant. It turns to jelly.
>
> Next Metal to Nylon contact NEVER gets lubrication in a pinball
> game. Same deal with Nylon to Nylon, no lube. Metal to Metal
> is sometimes lubricated, but it depends on the situation.
>
> Billb please stop posting your bad game repair habits.
> Do some research on the subject first.
>
> billb wrote:
> > i put a little wd40 on the nylon stuff, it doesn't hurt and makes me
feel
> > like i've protected it in some way. i also use wd40 to clean the gears
in
> > the score motor prior to using a little gun oil on said gears.
> >
> > --
> > billb
> > the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.
> >
> > "frenchy" <mf101723@msn.com> wrote in message
> > news:1123885347.272505.269010@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> > > Basically, any metal to metal is correct, things that pivot, rotate,
> > > spin, or slide against. This includes stepper fingers and contacts
> > > (very light smear of oil). If it nylon vs. nylon, or steel vs. nylon,
> > > don't lube it but it must be CLEANED or the nylon will wear away it's
> > > smooth surface. If it's just metal to metal that is simple latching
> > > action like a relay catch, doesn't need lube but sometimes they can
get
> > > sticky so clean them if they do. I like to put a smear of oil on the
> > > metal drop target arms that come down and slide along the score
> > > switches for smooth operation, and the internal points where the thin
> > > shafts go thru all the metal holes, but no nylon lubing, but again,
> > > clean them well.
> > > Things that require a little heavy lube (coin grease) are things like
> > > counter unit gear teeth, score motor gear teeth, and any metal to
metal
> > > pivots that are really getting a pounding like relay and drop target
> > > reset arms.
> > > One exception is coin mechs, just clean the hell out of the pivots,
> > > don't lube.
> > > Sand metal parts? NO!
> > >
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

well i'll send the guy that started his game on fire using
WD-40 to you for repair tips, since you both apparently have
the same thought train.

As for about the one person a month i have to completely
disassemble all their stepper units and clean and properely
lubricant, because they sprayed them with WD-40 which turned
to jello, I'll start sending them your way too!

WD-40 is for rusty frozen bolts. Look it says so right on the can.
It's called WD-40 because it's a Water (W) Displacer (D). It's not
called LUB-40, because it's NOT a lubricant. So don't try and
use it as one! DUH.

billb wrote:
> that's true, I only have 20 years of experience, what the hell do I know.
>
> --
> billb
> the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.
>
> <cfh@provide.net> wrote in message
> news:1123932224.308511.325640@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> > More BAD advice.
> >
> > First WD-40 should NEVER be used in a pinball game as a lubricant.
> > It's flamable. It's not a lubricant. It turns to jelly.
> >
> > Next Metal to Nylon contact NEVER gets lubrication in a pinball
> > game. Same deal with Nylon to Nylon, no lube. Metal to Metal
> > is sometimes lubricated, but it depends on the situation.
> >
> > Billb please stop posting your bad game repair habits.
> > Do some research on the subject first.
> >
> > billb wrote:
> > > i put a little wd40 on the nylon stuff, it doesn't hurt and makes me
> feel
> > > like i've protected it in some way. i also use wd40 to clean the gears
> in
> > > the score motor prior to using a little gun oil on said gears.
> > >
> > > --
> > > billb
> > > the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.
> > >
> > > "frenchy" <mf101723@msn.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1123885347.272505.269010@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> > > > Basically, any metal to metal is correct, things that pivot, rotate,
> > > > spin, or slide against. This includes stepper fingers and contacts
> > > > (very light smear of oil). If it nylon vs. nylon, or steel vs. nylon,
> > > > don't lube it but it must be CLEANED or the nylon will wear away it's
> > > > smooth surface. If it's just metal to metal that is simple latching
> > > > action like a relay catch, doesn't need lube but sometimes they can
> get
> > > > sticky so clean them if they do. I like to put a smear of oil on the
> > > > metal drop target arms that come down and slide along the score
> > > > switches for smooth operation, and the internal points where the thin
> > > > shafts go thru all the metal holes, but no nylon lubing, but again,
> > > > clean them well.
> > > > Things that require a little heavy lube (coin grease) are things like
> > > > counter unit gear teeth, score motor gear teeth, and any metal to
> metal
> > > > pivots that are really getting a pounding like relay and drop target
> > > > reset arms.
> > > > One exception is coin mechs, just clean the hell out of the pivots,
> > > > don't lube.
> > > > Sand metal parts? NO!
> > > >
> >

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

WD has been my best friend, because whenever an EM game doesn't work,
the "handy homeowner" sprays all the moving parts and then it really is
a f'd up game that needs alot of cleaning so they didn't want to pay
for the cleaning and said take it out of here for $100 or they would
just give it to me for nothing if it was a beater. These kind of deals
were all over in the mid 90's. I have seen owners spray WD all over
solenoids on all types of pins, and were very lucky they didn't burn
the house down. The only good thing about spraying WD on moving parts
is the mice will not nest in them. PIN REPAIR 101 - DO NOT USE WD 40,
or CONTACT CLEANER.

 

[BillB]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I don't willy nilly spray everything for god's sake, I spray a rag and use
that rag to clean all the gunk off the gears. If there's a residue it's
thin and isn't much of a problem.

What do you do with score motor gears on a 30 year old machine? Leave them
dry and dirty?


--
billb
the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.

"chuckster" <crrogers@ptd.net> wrote in message
news:1123972081.312979.237570@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> WD has been my best friend, because whenever an EM game doesn't work,
> the "handy homeowner" sprays all the moving parts and then it really is
> a f'd up game that needs alot of cleaning so they didn't want to pay
> for the cleaning and said take it out of here for $100 or they would
> just give it to me for nothing if it was a beater. These kind of deals
> were all over in the mid 90's. I have seen owners spray WD all over
> solenoids on all types of pins, and were very lucky they didn't burn
> the house down. The only good thing about spraying WD on moving parts
> is the mice will not nest in them. PIN REPAIR 101 - DO NOT USE WD 40,
> or CONTACT CLEANER.
>

 

[BillB]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

the website says it does all this and I agree, your turn.

CLEANS: WD-40 gets under dirt, grime and grease to clean. It also dissolves
adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape, stickers, and excess
bonding material.
DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out
electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.
PENETRATES: WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or
rusted metal parts.
LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and hold
firmly to all moving parts.
PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant
ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.

http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_product_info.html


--
billb
the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Score motor gears are BRASS on BRASS. No lubrication! They are
designed to NOT be lubricated!

The ONLY part of a score motor that requires lubrication is
the needle bearing. It is labeled (sometimes). There is an
oil hole, and a bit of cotton to hold the lubricant. Then
use 3-in-1 oil or 30 weight motor oil. Just a couple
drops is all you use in that lubrication hole!

There you see, 20 years of bad EM fixing and you learned
something new... how to properely lub a score motor.

billb wrote:
> I don't willy nilly spray everything for god's sake, I spray a rag and use
> that rag to clean all the gunk off the gears. If there's a residue it's
> thin and isn't much of a problem.
>
> What do you do with score motor gears on a 30 year old machine? Leave them
> dry and dirty?
>
>
> --
> billb
> the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.
>
> "chuckster" <crrogers@ptd.net> wrote in message
> news:1123972081.312979.237570@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> > WD has been my best friend, because whenever an EM game doesn't work,
> > the "handy homeowner" sprays all the moving parts and then it really is
> > a f'd up game that needs alot of cleaning so they didn't want to pay
> > for the cleaning and said take it out of here for $100 or they would
> > just give it to me for nothing if it was a beater. These kind of deals
> > were all over in the mid 90's. I have seen owners spray WD all over
> > solenoids on all types of pins, and were very lucky they didn't burn
> > the house down. The only good thing about spraying WD on moving parts
> > is the mice will not nest in them. PIN REPAIR 101 - DO NOT USE WD 40,
> > or CONTACT CLEANER.
> >

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

This info is on the web site at
http://marvin3m.com/em

Score motor gears that are brass on brass get NO lub.
Score motor gears that are nylon get NO lub.
The ONLY part of a score motor that is lubricated
is the needle bearing!!

Tor Arne Vestbø wrote:
> billb wrote:
>
> > What do you do with score motor gears on a 30 year old machine? Leave them
> > dry and dirty?
>
> Same thing I'm wondering. Metal to metal moving part (shaft in stepper
> unit for example), it's sticky with oil jello goo and is slow or won't
> move at all.
>
> - First up is clean, right? Get the dust, oil, and goo off. BUT, with
> what? Alcohol? Red spirits? Water? Novus?
>
> - Second, and here is where you dissagree as I understand it?, whether
> to put on oil/lube or not.
>
> A difinitive answer to the first one would be great Then I'll see if
> it even needs any oil.
>
> Thanks for all your feedback, I'm much wiser now than 1 day ago
>
> Tor Arne

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

It is OK to use a drop of DeOxIt from CAIG labs on relay contacts that are
causing problem, or switches. You then use a paper or a hog hair brush or
just operate it many time to get it working. Same with any of the CINCH
plugs and sockets in those old EM games After that you can rinse it off and
apply a thin layer of ProGold from CAIG labs. I use the 100 % concentration
solution of both, not the 5% spray. I have used this in 800 Volt high
power tube-type transmitters -- your game will not catch on fire, don't
worry.

DeOxIt and ProGold (and another one called PreservIt) have been the standard
used for years in high quality radio and audio work --- especially on
restoration project. Some of those old radio wafer switch with a thin layer
of gold or silver on brass are 100o times as easy to accidentally to destroy
than an EM pinball machine relay. CAIG products aren't the cheapest thing
around, but they work and are well documented. Don't go with the sprays
-stick wit the needle applicator of 100% concentration, or the brush
applicator. It does take patience.

Check these out:
http://www.caig.com
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.12/category.238/.f
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/.f
http://www.caig.com/pdf/MentorCards2005.pdf

--- Rob

Tor Arne Vestbø wrote:

> From my project blog at http://williamsgrandprix.blogspot.com/
> Feel free to answer here on RGP or in a blog comment. Thanks!!
>
> -------
>
> Okey, I've read the PinballHQ EM repair guide, and it's pretty strict on
> lubrication:
>
> Electro-Mechanical machines, for the most part, do not require any
> lubrication. Most parts run "dry". Far more damage can be done to a
> machine by over-lubricating, than by under-lubricating. As a rule, if in
> doubt as to lubrication, don't do it! ... The only parts that will
> require any lubrication are metal-to-metal moving parts. There aren't
> very many in an EM game. So keep that lubrication in the tool box and
> away from the game.
>
> So far I've stayed clear of any oil, but after going over some of the
> stepper units and drop targets in the machine I'm starting to wonder if
> maybe these classify as "metal-to-metal" moving parts. Small shafts that
> are supposed to move without any friction are very slugish and almost
> stuck, and I'm not sure how to fix this. They seem to have been oiled
> some time in the past, but that might have been a mistake? So, should I
> oil these parts, or should they be cleaned and sanded?
>
> I'm spesifically talking about the drop target mechanical joints and the
> shafts in the stepper units.
>
> Oil, or no oil? And if no oil, what to clean it with to remove the old
> oil and how to make it's movement smooth and without friction? I guess
> that is the question.
>
> Tor Arne

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

billb wrote:

> What do you do with score motor gears on a 30 year old machine? Leave them
> dry and dirty?

Same thing I'm wondering. Metal to metal moving part (shaft in stepper
unit for example), it's sticky with oil jello goo and is slow or won't
move at all.

- First up is clean, right? Get the dust, oil, and goo off. BUT, with
what? Alcohol? Red spirits? Water? Novus?

- Second, and here is where you dissagree as I understand it?, whether
to put on oil/lube or not.

A difinitive answer to the first one would be great Then I'll see if
it even needs any oil.

Thanks for all your feedback, I'm much wiser now than 1 day ago

Tor Arne

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The WHOLE procedure is fully described at
http://marvin3m.com/em/index1.htm
i don't think there is any need to retype!

Also if you are unsure of the procedure, why
not get TOP#1 and see it done? or TOP#2, or TOP#6.
they all cover proper cleaning/lubing stepper units
and they are only $8 including shipping
($12 for overseas locations).
http://marvin3m.com/top
http://marvin3m.com/top/top1.htm
http://marvin3m.com/top/top6.htm

Tor Arne Vestbø wrote:
> cfh@provide.net wrote:
> > The ONLY part of a score motor that is lubricated
> > is the needle bearing!!
>
> Okey, but what about stepper unit shafts and drop target joints? 1. How
> to clean? (Alcohol, Novus, Water?) 2. How to make sure it _stays_ smooth
> and clean? (Oil, no oil?)
>
> Thanks

 

[BillB]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I noticed your email on the marvin site. what is your connection to that?

--
billb
the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.
Governor Henry Blasdel, Nevada's first governor after statehood, voiced his
opposition to the proposed new act in the strongest of terms: "I know of no
greater vice than gambling. It is against public morals. It saps the very
foundations of society. It induces intemperance. It begets idleness. It
fosters immorality. It multiplies crime. It leads to reckless extravagance.
In short, it is the root of all evils."

<

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

cfh@provide.net wrote:
> The ONLY part of a score motor that is lubricated
> is the needle bearing!!

Okey, but what about stepper unit shafts and drop target joints? 1. How
to clean? (Alcohol, Novus, Water?) 2. How to make sure it _stays_ smooth
and clean? (Oil, no oil?)

Thanks

 

[frenchy]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

<<Okey, but what about stepper unit shafts and drop target joints? 1.
How
to clean? (Alcohol, Novus, Water?) 2. How to make sure it _stays_
smooth
and clean? (Oil, no oil?) >>

Steppers shafts don't need oil if the bearing is nylon. If bearing is
steel or brass, a drop of oil is ok.
Clean metal parts with alchohol to get off the gunk, maybe polish the
bearing surfaces up a little with metal polish if they are not real
shiny but not really necssary.
Same with nylon but can maybe polish a little with novus or something
but I've never found need to do it. You don't need to get any lube on
the drop targets or anything that touches them.