Exploring Below Ambient Water Cooling

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What size is your peltier dimension wise?

FYI:

This I haven't shared here yet, but is on my to buy list, for a future revamp, as it will be a better solution than massacring a perfectly good CPU water block.

The channeling effect will have the water in the block longer to pick up more cold, the website has a lot of block options but I advise staying away from the aluminum water blocks, unless you intend running automotive anti-freeze to counter metallic reactions between various metals, that is if you decide to buy one.

The one I linked is the perfect size for my peltier completely clearing the screw holes, my peltier measures 2" x 2", the block is 3" x 3", but is relatively expensive.

There are other water blocks at the website.

Ryan
 


Should've posted this info already, I'm just kinda busy building a screened in porch right now.

Since not running the two freezers constantly refreezing the ice every day, our monthly water bill dropped $50.00.

The peltier only runs when the computer runs.

Is that what you wanted to know?

Regarding;
Can you OC farther now?
Click to expand...

At this present time I still have the ability to use the ice, for overclock experimentation, but when it comes to the 2700K and it's hyper threading ability it performs comparatively at 4500mhz, to the 2500K clocked to 5000mhz.

Of course I can overclock farther, but what really matters to me, is being able to run my chosen 24/7 overclock cooler on a daily basis.

Since putting the peltier cooling into operation my CPU doesn't even know what ambient room temperature even feels like, it's been operating below ambient since it was first energized.

So as far as real world performance I give it a big thumbs up!

When I go back to the beginning of this thread and look over the progress it's amazing what's taken place and how much better it is now.

Ryan
 


Hmm, good question. Will take measurements when it arrives!
But I'm guessing it won't be anything too powerful. Didn't see this thread earlier on, so so I just bought a random, cheap Peltier plate from Ebay to tinker around with.
Haha, it looks good. And that design will probably get rid of the waterblock cracking issue. But ouch, $149. Is there a cheaper alternative for me to start tinkering with? Generally the stuff i tinker with ends up getting dissected, disemboweled or destroyed.
Was thinking of getting a EK Supremacy for my CPU, and use my current (Supreme-HF) block for the peltier. What do you think of it?
Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I'm still a total noob at this.
 
I've got a reply in your other thread, good thread by the way, I totally respect you sharing your learned the hard way moments.

I modified my RASA water block to allow more water flow through it, it is serving it's purpose but far from the performance that could be attained from a water block designed to collect the cold.

When I started with the peltier I simply did not know what it could or could not do, and had a water block not in use that could be sacrificed for the experiment, after what I have learned I would not invest the money in a sacrificial water block.

If the money was going to be spent on a water block from the beginning it would be what I linked, even though it cost more money.

If you want to modify a cheaper water block, you can, what's important is cutting down the restriction of the water flow, a highly restrictive block will freeze up on you faster than you can imagine.

The peltier itself produces sub zero temperatures don't forget that!

Ry
 
It is was I was looking for. Mostly. I know doing either of these would be a "cool" thing to do. What I'm wondering is if the TEC or jugs is the way to go. Or, if you had to do it over again which would you setup? I like the TEC because of not needing to change jugs. But not everyone can mod the waterblock or change the wires on the PSU...
 


One thing about experimentation, someone has to do it!

From the very beginning of this thread it has been all about getting more cooling performance than traditional air or water cooling was delivering.

I never had intentions of trying to disrespect the water cooling community, I was just overclocking and not getting the results I wanted and started searching for a better performing cooling solution.

If I knew then, what I know now, it would have been different, of course I've been saying that my entire life.

I had already spent chunks of money on the best of the best air coolers, and water cooling closed loops, and still was not getting the cooling I wanted.

So since I already had on hand what I needed, from all the money I had wasted, ice jug cooling turned out to be exactly what I needed at the time.

So there's been a lot of learning the hard way!



Knowing what I know now, absolutely the TEC!



Affirmative!



You don't have to mod a water block, I did not know that at the time, you can buy water blocks specifically designed to channel the water through the block, keeping the water in the block longer to pickup the cold from the TEC.

These water blocks are CNC milled and the website has a large inventory of various size water blocks, so pretty much any TEC size that someone chooses, they have a channeling water block for it.

http://www.shop.customthermoelectri...CF605C6978D8390276F418783DF623EE.qscstrfrnt03

I've ordered the one below to replace my modded water block.

http://www.shop.customthermoelectri...F34857385B77C9B135C34CCB785A69D3.qscstrfrnt03

WaterChannelingBlock.png


Regarding power supply modding:

The website below has just about any power supply available to run any size TEC, with very reasonable prices.

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/st...CategoryName=AC-to-DC Switching&category=4540

The power supply below would have been my choice had I not adapted my Silverstone OP-1000w to do the job. The Silverstone however no matter how amperage capable it is can only deliver 12v to my 15v spec'd TEC, meaning what cooling performance increase would be added if the TEC got the extra 3v?

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2105172_-1

I may pick this power supply up later?

But, I'm hoping that the water block itself is going to increase the cooling, by channeling the water, it's definitely got to work better than what I'm presently running.

My goal from this point is to be able to run the entire loop adding the 2 GPUs back into the equation.



So continuing to answer that question, I am definitely pursuing the TEC cooling route, because I literally am doing it over again.

It would be nice if I could drop the reservoir size down to the size of a standard dual bay res, and gut my RadBox of the radiators to house the entire TEC assembly.

The first tests will be to see how the new water block affects the water temperature in the cooler?

So the experimenting continues! Ryan :)
 


Look at the channeling machined into that water block, Moto.

It's definitely going to affect the waters ability to pick up cold from the TEC! :)

Modding and experimenting is exciting, isn't it!

Ry


 
New goal, achieve below ambient cooling, using as small a reservoir as possible, never needing to use any ice at all, and being able to additionally cool the 2 GPUs added back to the CPU loop.

Seriously dropping the size of the entire cooling project!

IMO, TEC/Water cooling combinations will be the future of high performance computer cooling and in those systems, radiators will become obsolete, there will be no need for radiators at all.
 


Thank you. I find no shame in trying to learn.

I was wondering if removing the jet plate on the EK Supreme HF block will solve this problem.

But then again, you are probably right. I shouldn't keep finding cheaper and quicker solutions just to get it up and running as fast as possible first, before slowly upgrading.
I'll be wasting a lot more money in the long run.

Think I'll spend a little more time and money this time, and get everything done up properly.
 


No, however you can always experiment for yourself, the problem is it takes time in the block to pick up as much cold transfer to the water as possible. Cold collection, is a completely different principle than the water being focused on a specific area to remove heat. No matter how much you mod a traditional water block it was not designed for that purpose.



I did that in the beginning because I did not know it would actually work, what I've shared is what I've learned at my own expense to try and help others not make those mistakes.



Why don't you wait and see how this water block I've ordered pans out, vs the water block I modded.

Then you'll know exactly what to expect.

Did you ever discover the peltier specs you ordered?
 
Done on the Radbox mate, it was back up and running yesterday, I Forgot that the other fancontroller has one knackered channel but I didn't use that one as I had two spare, no room to mount coolers for them on a oneday mod hehe,
I think I've figured out how the fire extinguisher is going to fit though
Moto
 


Moto, I Love that New Fur Effect! 😉

It's absolutely Furbulous! :lol:

At least you don't have to worry about your rads getting cold in the winter! :lol:

Now I see why you need the fire extinguisher! :lol:

JKing! :lol:

Ry


 


I'm hoping for much better performance from the new block, so we'll see?

Not bad regarding the peltier, if those specs given are accurate but you really need to know the amperage draw, I didn't see any detailed specs?

A 50mm x 50mm is 2" square which will require some type of cold plate to adapt an air cooler, if that's your choice in cooling the hot side, of course you'll find that out when it's actually in your hands.

A copper cold plate would be the best but good luck in finding one that large, you can get 2" wide x 3/16" or 1/4" thick aluminum flat stock from either Lowes or Home Depot and cut a 2" square out and use it for a cold plate, after lapping both sides perfectly flat.

You have to completely cover both sides of the peltier surfaces, but especially the hot side, or you'll burn it up immediately.

 




Not sure if this are what you're looking for.

Model CP1-12726
50mm x 50mm x 3.64mm
Maximum power consumption 400 Watts
Operates from 0-16 VDC and 0-26 Amps
Continuous operation at temperatures as high as 150 deg C
Each device is fully inspected and tested prior to shipment
Fitted with 6-inch insulated lead wires
Perimeter sealed for moisture protection

Alright, I know this is a silly question, but just want to clarify. The base of my Noctua is 1 1/2" square. So attaching it directly to the peltier will burn the peltier.
But if I cut a copper block 2" square, sandwiching it betweening the peltier and Noctua, it will solve the problem?

 

Thanks!
Peltier plate just arrived anyway.
The wires attached to it looks too thin to handle 26ohms!
And it feels pretty fragile to me.
Will update with photos soon. DSLR having firmware issues after I tried installing the latest firmware.
 
WaterChannelingBlock.png


Received the water block and as with some pictures it is a lot more than the picture depicts, it is heavy 100% CNC milled from solid copper, measures 3" x 3" and 7/8" think, the cap itself is almost 1/4" thick.

Very well made piece of cooling hardware!

It is slower to respond than the modified RASA water block, but pays off significantly in the long run once it is completely chilled, more solid copper takes more initial chilling time, a no brain er.

I have not run any significant tests as my time is limited as it's taking a back seat to my screened porch project, however I did let it run idling for 3 1/2 hrs and it dropped the water temperature of the 4 gallons of water in the cooler by 4.7c.

That's all to report as of now. Ryan
 


Your initial tests looks good, should be ordering one myself!
 


based on your other numbers you gave us assuming everything from that test to this one was roughly the same, that was a 25% gain.
 
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