Exploring Below Ambient Water Cooling

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I'll still dump the copper in here to tweak the watermass so that my working Pc is at least at ambient,
but I am going to seriously investigate and start work on the other plan as well, that one is more desk friendly hehe
Moto
 


Don't wait too long or I'll do it myself! :)
 
I'm taking detailed photos but the only way you'll get to see them is if it is a successful experiment, if it is not successful I'll show one picture of the finished cooler so I can claim my idiot award! :)
 

Lutfij

Titan
Moderator
:lol: we're all for the good of the people. Galileo was branded a lunatic for thinking the world was round :p so if you'd call yourself a big idiot(via that award), which isle would that put us in :D ?
 
First leak test after the modifications passed, thankfully!

So far it's all coming together I've run into a couple of minor roadblocks, still to overcome, but the finished look is turning out very nice.

Once it's all together I'll start testing it, one of my main concerns, is the heat sink that will be cooling the hot side of the peltier sufficient??????

Hope So!

That's the first test and if that test fails, :pfff: back to the drawing board!

That will only be a speed bump though, because I have other heat sinks
 
I used Marine Grade Clear silicone to bond the acrylic adapter plate to the acrylic reservoir and it takes a full undisturbed 48hrs to completely cure before water contact so this will not be continuing at all, until after 4:00 AM Monday Morning my time.
 


Well this post is a disappointment to have to make, I promised a picture but to fully understand what I created and experimented with, here's three views.

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Any of you that have followed this thread the best way to sum up why this was not successful was it produced the same results as the previous massive copper water block did.

Remember this massive monster!

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Using the modified dual bay reservoir with the copper fins submerged in the water could not maintain a thermal cold load under testing load and once the water heated in the reservoir, it took too long to recover.

End results of radiators cooling the GPUs, Idle = 32c, Load = 40c.

End results of Copper Heatsink over Copper Heatsink in acrylic reservoir, Idle = 32c, Load = 52c,

12c performance cooling loss, so this particular project is, "Not Da Mama!"

This confirms, as far as I am concerned, that using a traditional CPU water block to pick up the cold from the peltier and an insulated reservoir to hold and store the cold is the way to go.

This method of transferring the cold to the water is unsuccessful!

Ryan
 


The ports on the side was a Serenity flashback, "What the hell is this ?", "It's the new engine coupler capn!", Shiny!

Actually my CPU cooling is working better than I could have ever hoped with my TECBox, so I'll just stick with what I know works!
 
A CPU water block transfers the cold fast!

Because the base contact copper plate is only 3mm thick on most all water blocks.

The large copper finned heat sink has a massive amount of copper base approximately 8mm thick.

The more copper, the more retention of cold and hot!

Once the cold side begins to loose it's cold because of the heat from either a GPU or CPU, the cold conduction from the peltier transferring to the water, has to be faster than the cold loss, or else the waters thermal mass begins to slowly warm and cannot recover the cold it is loosing.

Because when the cold side has been steadily running a balance with the hot side and then the cold side becomes too warm, it causes the peltier to literally stall and throws off the balance of hot and cold.

The same loss of balance occurs if you allow the hot side to get too hot, because if it gets too hot it warms the cold side and keeps it from reaching it's coldest point, throwing off the balance.

I know this sounds totally ridiculous but it is a well known side effect of peltier use, if you do not learn to take advantage of the balance you'll never get what you want from peltier cooling.

The solid copper heat sink I used in the experiment allowed the peltier hot side to get too hot, from my experimentation a hot side temperature of 120f ~ 130f allows a balance chill factor down to 50f or 10c.

The heat pipe cooler is definitely the way to go cooling the hot side of the peltier, to achieve the balance needed between hot and cold for maximum cold conduction to the water block, to store in the insulated reservoir.

This solid finned copper heat sink experiment even though not successful has confirmed the method I am already running is definitely the way to go regarding peltier/TEC cooling.

It has also confirmed that using a CPU water block is the most efficient way to transfer the cold generated by the peltier to the water, and using an insulated reservoir to store the cold water, which is the storage buffer needed to get the maximum benefits from the peltier cooling.
 
Continuing sharing my discoveries.

If you energize a peltier keeping the hot side cool of course, (because if not you'll burn it out!), frost begins to form on the cold side of the peltier almost instantly, the thicker the copper base the longer it takes to form frost on the cold side.

With the solid base copper finned heat sink approximately 8mm thick, I saw no frost forming even after 15 minutes of operation, and I already knew from that, it probably was not going to end up successful.

I really did not want to have spent that money for nothing so I continued on with the testing to be 100% sure.

So it's another lesson learned the hard way!

Just so there is no confusion, the test above was not a change of my configuration to something new, I want to make that perfectly clear, below is my setup in operation.

MainComputer_zpsa446b455.png


View of main computer on the left with the GPU Mini RadBox to the right.

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Full view of GPU Mini RadBox with the CPU TecBox to the right.

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View of CPU TecBox to right.

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Full view of CPU TecBox.

Ryan