EXTREME TEMPERATURE CPU.......

[grieve]

Dont worry about GPU.. they can hit like 90-100 no problem.

 

[striker10001]

no..no i don't worry on gpu'sand those m-board and sata's ,cpu's are only problem

 

[striker10001]

well,real temp in full load.. ....

 

[grieve]

Keep reseating over and over to obtain the best contact possible
Check this link…. Are you applying the thermal paste like it says on this site?

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm


If you can’t get under 60 @ full load I would consider purchasing a new Heatsink.
What’s the CPU voltage? Get CPUZ here… and take a screenshot http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php

 

[Twoboxer]

... i think airflow in cabint is also ok..... air inlet from top,inlrt from back,inlet from big fan on left side,outlet from small below the big one...and outlet from psu's fan which is mounted below the psu....assuming everything's fine except cpu's temp...its only two weeks i bought the whole rig...

1) Could you clarify: Which fans are blowing in? Which fans are blowing out? Ignore "air inlets", just talk fans.

2) Those Realtemp readings aren't too bad considering your ambient is 18-20 degrees C higher than "normal" lol.

 

[striker10001]

.................

 

[cjl]

Keep reseating over and over to obtain the best contact possible
Check this link…. Are you applying the thermal paste like it says on this site?

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm


If you can’t get under 60 @ full load I would consider purchasing a new Heatsink.
What’s the CPU voltage? Get CPUZ here… and take a screenshot http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php

60 at full load would be quite difficult with an ambient that high. The heatsink is likely working fine, but with an ambient 15 degrees up from what most people would have, the load temps will be 15 up as well. Therefore, a system that could get under 60 at full load for him would get under 45 for anyone in a cooler room. That's kind of unreasonable for a quad on air.

 

[striker10001]

Keep reseating over and over to obtain the best contact possible
Check this link…. Are you applying the thermal paste like it says on this site?

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm


If you can’t get under 60 @ full load I would consider purchasing a new Heatsink.
What’s the CPU voltage? Get CPUZ here… and take a screenshot http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php

here it is

 

[striker10001]

1) Could you clarify: Which fans are blowing in? Which fans are blowing out? Ignore "air inlets", just talk fans.

2) Those Realtemp readings aren't too bad considering your ambient is 18-20 degrees C higher than "normal" lol.

have a look at these links twoboxer explained in detail top fan side panel back side led display temps... that's it...

 

[shubham1401]

UMM... im gunna have to call bullshit here man.

EXPLAIN how your CPU is lower then room temp.. even if you are running a KILLER water loop?!

I said the temperature at noon is 45 degree celcius but the room temp is lower than that.
i just wanted to tell him that his temps should be around 40-50.
and if you think i m lying then i can post the real temp screenshot .you can check those.

 

[grieve]

60 at full load would be quite difficult with an ambient that high. The heatsink is likely working fine, but with an ambient 15 degrees up from what most people would have, the load temps will be 15 up as well. Therefore, a system that could get under 60 at full load for him would get under 45 for anyone in a cooler room. That's kind of unreasonable for a quad on air.

I don't think 60 is unreasoable with a 35 ambient.

My machine runs about 48 full load with an abient temp of 25 (so 23 above ambient)

If his room temp is 35.... 58 is reasonable.


He may simply require an aftermarket heatsink....

 

[werxen]

dude what theme is that? i would love to see my temps n such on the desktop.

 

[striker10001]

its multi sensors, u need to have everest ultimate edition to link it and use, otherwise it won't function just google it up..
have look at thread spot the not, and u'll trust many...

 

[shubham1401]

Man spend some extra bucks and get an aftermarket cooler as you have tried everything and this seems to be the only choice left.

 

[striker10001]

yeah i've thinking that do any one suggest for cooler master v8..... or anything best below 150$

 

[cjl]

$150? US?

That's a pretty high budget. You could get a TRUE for that.

 

[rojito]

Get a Xigmatek or similar (with direct touch technology), they're excellent air coolers and cost about 40$

 

[striker10001]

yop! $ 150 or about 8000 rs/- i dont't think that xigmatek will available here, but coolermaster available at delta peripherals,chennai. [[xigmatek model ?? any image link dude....

 

[psylos]

Shouldn't both fans at the back blowing out air? I think it will help to have the case fan in the back turned around... At least try it to see if temps will get any lower or not...

 

[Twoboxer]

OK, so you did describe the fan direction correctly the first time. I've never seen such an airflow design, and you are creating considerable turbulence inside the case.

If I were you, I'd change to a much more STANDARD air flow, and not depend on your two poorly placed, smallest fans and seams in the case to get air OUT of the case.

Reverse the top fan and the rear panel fan. This will insure most air comes in from the side (large fan), and is drawn up to the cpu by the top and rear EXHAUST fans, some of which will be blown past your cpu cooler by that fan before exiting.

I'm not too worried about your small side fan being set to exhaust once the other changes are made. Although I would ask you to simply TURN IT OFF while you test the changes above.

After you test this suggestion, you can turn it back on and re-check cpu and vid card temps. I'll bet the cpu is worse.

THEN try turning off the LARGE side fan, and setting the SMALL side fan to in. I'll bet everything is cooler.

 

[rojito]

yop! $ 150 or about 8000 rs/- i dont't think that xigmatek will available here, but coolermaster available at delta peripherals,chennai. [[xigmatek model ?? any image link dude....

XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 120mm Rifle CPU Cooler - Retail:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233003

KINGWIN XT-1264 120mm Xtreme Direct H.T.C. (Heat-pipe Touch Chip) CPU Cooler w/ 1366 Bracket - Retail:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835124022

Or OCZ Veendetta 120mm fan.

They are very cheap and efficient solutions, you have to pay double or more to get 1 to 3 degrees less.

For now I suggest you try with the case open to see if temps drop a little. If they do, it means your case fans are taking the airflow the cpu cooler needs and have to rethink the directions.

Here's a review on the xigmatek
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/thermalright-xigmatek_9.html#sect0

 

[striker10001]

OK, so you did describe the fan direction correctly the first time. I've never seen such an airflow design, and you are creating considerable turbulence inside the case.

If I were you, I'd change to a much more STANDARD air flow, and not depend on your two poorly placed, smallest fans and seams in the case to get air OUT of the case.

Reverse the top fan and the rear panel fan. This will insure most air comes in from the side (large fan), and is drawn up to the cpu by the top and rear EXHAUST fans, some of which will be blown past your cpu cooler by that fan before exiting.

I'm not too worried about your small side fan being set to exhaust once the other changes are made. Although I would ask you to simply TURN IT OFF while you test the changes above.

After you test this suggestion, you can turn it back on and re-check cpu and vid card temps. I'll bet the cpu is worse.

THEN try turning off the LARGE side fan, and setting the SMALL side fan to in. I'll bet everything is cooler.

thanks for your suggestion twoboxer, but the problem is i never designed the airflow, these stupid airflow design came along with the cpu cabin,i can't reverse the top fan, i can't reach it with screw drivers, i'll reverse all the other and post the results.

 

[striker10001]

XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 120mm Rifle CPU Cooler - Retail:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233003

KINGWIN XT-1264 120mm Xtreme Direct H.T.C. (Heat-pipe Touch Chip) CPU Cooler w/ 1366 Bracket - Retail:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835124022

Or OCZ Veendetta 120mm fan.

They are very cheap and efficient solutions, you have to pay double or more to get 1 to 3 degrees less.

For now I suggest you try with the case open to see if temps drop a little. If they do, it means your case fans are taking the airflow the cpu cooler needs and have to rethink the directions.

Here's a review on the xigmatek
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/thermalright-xigmatek_9.html#sect0

what having such an high end cooler reduces only about 3 degress!!, god am getting sick now, i thought they will carry out atleast - 10-20 degrees... or is there anything best except water cooling system,apparently my motherboard [asus p5n-d n-force 750i sli chipset wont support these features [no heat pipes]

 

[rojito]

what having such an high end cooler reduces only about 3 degress!!, god am getting sick now, i thought they will carry out atleast - 10-20 degrees... or is there anything best except water cooling system,apparently my motherboard [asus p5n-d n-force 750i sli chipset wont support these features [no heat pipes]

Sorry, you misunderstood me. I was talking about the difference between the Xigmatek (cheap) and a top of the line (expensive) cooler

On the other hand, are you ever going to tell us if you tried opening the case and watch for changes on temps?

 

[Twoboxer]

thanks for your suggestion twoboxer, but the problem is i never designed the airflow, these stupid airflow design came along with the cpu cabin,i can't reverse the top fan, i can't reach it with screw drivers, i'll reverse all the other and post the results.

OK, if you can't reverse the top fan, I want to suggest a slightly different test setup:

- Top fan = off
- Rear fan = Out
- Large Side fan = In
- Small Side fan = In

I'd like convection and designed air flow to work together to get air flowing past the psu cooler and then out of the case, even with one less fan.

After you get a sense of what that does for your temps, try covering up the top fan so very little if any air flows out through the disabled fan and test again. I don't think it'll get better, should do slightly worse, but its an easy test to do.