Question Fan configuration

[shmuel1614]

Hi everyone. I own an Antec DF600 FLUX case and was thinking about replacing the stock fans which some don't have PWM and also to maximize cooling efficiency. In their site, Antec suggests a 4 intake 4 exhaust layout as shown here: https://prnt.sc/ohVJGSUyRW9g
I was thinking implementing this configuration and have opted out to buy 8 be quiet's Silent Wings 4 120mm PWM fans: (https://www.bequiet.com/en/casefans/3700). my questions are: 1. is this good enough or perhaps even overkill?
and 2. there fan controller can only host up to 6 fans, so whenever I go to adjust the curves of the fans, how would it work? will i control all 6 together? can i control them individually? how does it work if the 2 remaining fans were connected to the MB, in what manner would I be able to control them if so?
Haven't purchased them yet so any suggestions are happily welcome.

Thanks.

P.S. I have no idea why in the picture they set up the intake mesh AFTER but I have reversed it at it seemed bad.

 

[Paperdoc]

That may be overkill, and I can suggest cutting down to seven or six with that thought as backdrop. I doubt you need the bottom fan, although it might help with air flow balance. In my opinion you should have slightly more air intake capacity than exhaust. If you do that, the air pressure inside the case will be slightly higher than outside, so any air leakage at cracks will be from inside to out. This prevents influx of unfiltered air, reducing dust build-up. Now, the front three intake fans (and possible bottom intake) actually blow a bit less air than their rating because of the small air flow resistance of the dust filters which you DO need. So four fans in intake versus three as unfiltered exhaust may give you a good balance.

This second point is clearer. At the very top front there are an intake in the front, and an exhaust right above it through the top. That arrangement produces an air flow "short circuit" in which all the top front intake's air just gets blown right out again and never gets to move through the case. So do NOT install a TOP exhaust fan at the very FRONT location.

I note a caution on the fan Hub included with that case. It is a dual-function unit - really, two Hubs on one board. It is both a fan MOTOR Hub and a LIGHTING Hub. BUT unlike many other motor Hubs, this one has THREE-pin output ports, so it works ideally with older Voltage Control Mode fans. Now, the new 4-pin PWM fan designs (which is what you specify you plan) CAN work with that system due to a backwards compatibility feature of their design, but that is not quite the ideal way for those fans. So for the MOTORS I will recommend you buy a different Hub.

I note also that the fans you specify do NOT have any lights in their frames. IF that is how you proceed, you do NOT need the lighting Hub part of that unit, either. But if you change your mind and get fans with lights, make SURE they are the newer Addressable RGB type (aka ARGB or ADDR RGB or sometimes Digital RGB). ALSO make SURE the mobo you choose has that type of lighting header on it - NOT the plain RGB type with a 4-pin interface. Then you could use the lighting half of the Hub supplied even though you connect your fans' motors to a different Hub. IF you do that, you'll need a small ARGB Splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/Jstincal-Splitter-Addressable-Extension-Computer/dp/B0C599QKFY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2VHLDZDP5IR7O&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.OhPMek35e6Gtkd1XPTxNBoC2c6Oghzz7179IWhbpXaEGVsTktLEPQd534g21wCgIMaM3LsdVZZiYGHFUz0RIIQABnwJOmBpg-fFCl966FCLfmdQf95LKTyEtOKX34g_IzIr7Dx61o9Nm6N0BElwponKzR6Z32fEbQLcGdGRITf_NxA0u73E7AoGgYdjd9os7dZQgZ1k182_D5WxpXtoiiSGdEZYgJYoYOvTn4bRtXck.piolG67iG8LM0jNPEAWTu7wk6qmHdTJM8r8GGLp79XQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=ARGB+Splitter&qid=1711760384&sprefix=argb+splitter,aps,101&sr=8-3&th=1

That is a 2-pack, but several models on that page. You need the ones with TWO output arms each (3 output arms also can work), AND with the little gender-changer adapters. The Splitter has all its connectors as female, but the gender-changers convert female outputs to males. One of these would allow you to connect seven fans' lighting cables to six ports on that Hub.

Back to the fan MOTOR Hub design. I recommend you get a Hub designed for use only with PWM 4-pin fans, since that is what you plan to use. This one by Thermaltake

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-212159-Accessory-Ac-023-an1nan-a1-Commander/dp/B015KG6HP0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2J1W2MBT814UB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.iTYb-dx0Fn3Fn6483zs9PanoVZ3CbR7mebiVnwwqAbWiJ4W_EimBm8KW1XqKKYQ9-x43SnyERsKt6s-YgLpc_QQ1nAIcSkHjvwP6E6ekFV3FqwLoWPhf5qe9dNdAFS2rsbSjP5X26eiLV07ufAlvIeXknPwZ-xlVAWP8H2bNlRaPfq2qg6Mh2yHWycvrCC3K7pnsTGJFs-j8xs84s1z_kaQ4iVmM17g_eKYGs0euWqo.aF17b6--i0xvWaXK0IYbe-gJDSSA8TmRHvRqC454Ds0&dib_tag=se&keywords=Thermaltake+fan+hub&qid=1711762398&sprefix=thermaltake+fan+hub,aps,86&sr=8-3

or the Deepcool FH-10

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=sr_1_1?crid=Q2MTO6HZH6NU&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7Gz54yz3UZw9kyjRe6_ft3inm7_HCHeOYXBBhWa-bq51s2RKqmigzz50OR2rt8RmR33ve7L5s5Xh3wEm8FAvXikvFcT7utlvfZHteexQdvmoj4Swclv37JJ-I9Yp5Sx0JvBROjYsNPEgeTw81BCPZ5b2bZ_Nc0Ucl7gDN4PsxEKAhT6HbaiYeEnbP2_YrD_3qdRy8dFevbXWn1VDxFEsD_BiJeUAeHxhxDpnuYqmOJ8.6_2QDLmfrv82f0JxYZPSIda2WVokWoE5kLqvotcNh4g&dib_tag=se&keywords=Deepcool+FH-10&qid=1711762549&sprefix=deepcool+fh-10,aps,103&sr=8-1&th=1

will do the job. Each has 10 output ports for 4-pin fans. Each requires power input from a SATA power output connector from your PSU, and a cable (supplied) to connect it to a mobo CHA_FAN or SYS_FAN header to get the PWM signal. The mobo header must be set to use the PWM Mode of control.You must plug ONE of your fans into the only marked output port. It is the only one that can return a fan's speed signal to the host header - the speeds of all other fans on the Hub will be ignored.

 

[shmuel1614]

That may be overkill, and I can suggest cutting down to seven or six with that thought as backdrop. I doubt you need the bottom fan, although it might help with air flow balance. In my opinion you should have slightly more air intake capacity than exhaust. If you do that, the air pressure inside the case will be slightly higher than outside, so any air leakage at cracks will be from inside to out. This prevents influx of unfiltered air, reducing dust build-up. Now, the front three intake fans (and possible bottom intake) actually blow a bit less air than their rating because of the small air flow resistance of the dust filters which you DO need. So four fans in intake versus three as unfiltered exhaust may give you a good balance.

This second point is clearer. At the very top front there are an intake in the front, and an exhaust right above it through the top. That arrangement produces an air flow "short circuit" in which all the top front intake's air just gets blown right out again and never gets to move through the case. So do NOT install a TOP exhaust fan at the very FRONT location.

I note a caution on the fan Hub included with that case. It is a dual-function unit - really, two Hubs on one board. It is both a fan MOTOR Hub and a LIGHTING Hub. BUT unlike many other motor Hubs, this one has THREE-pin output ports, so it works ideally with older Voltage Control Mode fans. Now, the new 4-pin PWM fan designs (which is what you specify you plan) CAN work with that system due to a backwards compatibility feature of their design, but that is not quite the ideal way for those fans. So for the MOTORS I will recommend you buy a different Hub.

I note also that the fans you specify do NOT have any lights in their frames. IF that is how you proceed, you do NOT need the lighting Hub part of that unit, either. But if you change your mind and get fans with lights, make SURE they are the newer Addressable RGB type (aka ARGB or ADDR RGB or sometimes Digital RGB). ALSO make SURE the mobo you choose has that type of lighting header on it - NOT the plain RGB type with a 4-pin interface. Then you could use the lighting half of the Hub supplied even though you connect your fans' motors to a different Hub. IF you do that, you'll need a small ARGB Splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/Jstincal-Splitter-Addressable-Extension-Computer/dp/B0C599QKFY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2VHLDZDP5IR7O&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.OhPMek35e6Gtkd1XPTxNBoC2c6Oghzz7179IWhbpXaEGVsTktLEPQd534g21wCgIMaM3LsdVZZiYGHFUz0RIIQABnwJOmBpg-fFCl966FCLfmdQf95LKTyEtOKX34g_IzIr7Dx61o9Nm6N0BElwponKzR6Z32fEbQLcGdGRITf_NxA0u73E7AoGgYdjd9os7dZQgZ1k182_D5WxpXtoiiSGdEZYgJYoYOvTn4bRtXck.piolG67iG8LM0jNPEAWTu7wk6qmHdTJM8r8GGLp79XQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=ARGB+Splitter&qid=1711760384&sprefix=argb+splitter,aps,101&sr=8-3&th=1

That is a 2-pack, but several models on that page. You need the ones with TWO output arms each (3 output arms also can work), AND with the little gender-changer adapters. The Splitter has all its connectors as female, but the gender-changers convert female outputs to males. One of these would allow you to connect seven fans' lighting cables to six ports on that Hub.

Back to the fan MOTOR Hub design. I recommend you get a Hub designed for use only with PWM 4-pin fans, since that is what you plan to use. This one by Thermaltake

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-212159-Accessory-Ac-023-an1nan-a1-Commander/dp/B015KG6HP0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2J1W2MBT814UB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.iTYb-dx0Fn3Fn6483zs9PanoVZ3CbR7mebiVnwwqAbWiJ4W_EimBm8KW1XqKKYQ9-x43SnyERsKt6s-YgLpc_QQ1nAIcSkHjvwP6E6ekFV3FqwLoWPhf5qe9dNdAFS2rsbSjP5X26eiLV07ufAlvIeXknPwZ-xlVAWP8H2bNlRaPfq2qg6Mh2yHWycvrCC3K7pnsTGJFs-j8xs84s1z_kaQ4iVmM17g_eKYGs0euWqo.aF17b6--i0xvWaXK0IYbe-gJDSSA8TmRHvRqC454Ds0&dib_tag=se&keywords=Thermaltake+fan+hub&qid=1711762398&sprefix=thermaltake+fan+hub,aps,86&sr=8-3

or the Deepcool FH-10

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=sr_1_1?crid=Q2MTO6HZH6NU&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7Gz54yz3UZw9kyjRe6_ft3inm7_HCHeOYXBBhWa-bq51s2RKqmigzz50OR2rt8RmR33ve7L5s5Xh3wEm8FAvXikvFcT7utlvfZHteexQdvmoj4Swclv37JJ-I9Yp5Sx0JvBROjYsNPEgeTw81BCPZ5b2bZ_Nc0Ucl7gDN4PsxEKAhT6HbaiYeEnbP2_YrD_3qdRy8dFevbXWn1VDxFEsD_BiJeUAeHxhxDpnuYqmOJ8.6_2QDLmfrv82f0JxYZPSIda2WVokWoE5kLqvotcNh4g&dib_tag=se&keywords=Deepcool+FH-10&qid=1711762549&sprefix=deepcool+fh-10,aps,103&sr=8-1&th=1

will do the job. Each has 10 output ports for 4-pin fans. Each requires power input from a SATA power output connector from your PSU, and a cable (supplied) to connect it to a mobo CHA_FAN or SYS_FAN header to get the PWM signal. The mobo header must be set to use the PWM Mode of control.You must plug ONE of your fans into the only marked output port. It is the only one that can return a fan's speed signal to the host header - the speeds of all other fans on the Hub will be ignored.

My motherboard is a Gigabyte B650M GAMING X AX. currently I don't have a plan to swap out for RGB fans down the road so the Thermaltake seems like a solid option, I reckon my motherboard has a compatible 4pin header... I really appreciate the effort you put in to help me, thank you so much.
also, do you reckon I could do without the front plastic panel? I get a feeling it limits intake airflow

 

[Paperdoc]

That mobo has three SYS_FAN headers suitable for case fan control, and you really will need to use only one of them since you will connect all your case ventilation fans to a Hub. If you don't get them with the mobo, the main board manual is here

https://download.gigabyte.com/FileL...1302_e.pdf?v=07479264cda83c881122399bb8f17df6

and the separate BIOS Setup manual is here

https://download.gigabyte.com/FileL...e_0104.pdf?v=cfbe0375700835184b0adf38304d004b

In that latter, see p. 6 for how the SmartFan 6 system options are set up. For the SYS_FAN header you use for the Hub set as follows:
Fan Speed Control to Normal
Fan Control Use Temperature Input to Motherboard, not CPU
Fan Control Mode to PWM, not Auto or Voltage
Fan Stop DISabled so it never stops your fans
Fan Fail Warning ENabled so you will get a warning IF the one fan attached to the Hub's marked port fails. HOWEVER, with this system that header can NOT monitor ALL the case fans for failure. So from time to time YOU should look to verify they all still are working.

For your CPU cooler system that will be plugged into the CPU_FAN header. Its options can be set as above, except that this header probably does not even offer you a choice of temperature sensor to use - it always should use the sensor inside the CPU chip.

When you have all your settings adjusted, use Esc back to Main Menu, then F10 to get to the Exit Menu (p. 28). There choose Save and Exit Setup to save your settings and reboot.

Regarding the case front panel, I cannot see clearly what that is, but it appears to be a fine mesh. Leave that in place. It is supposed to be the dust filter that prevent airborne dust from entering through the front intake fans. During use it will acquire a build-up of dust that you can remove from time to time.

 

[35below0]

Are you still going with this plan?

I would suggest not using 3 fans on top. 2 of them will cannibalize the front intake air.
Try using just one top exhaust fan, placed near the rear exhaust.
That setup will also give you positive pressure.

 

[SkyNetRising]

is this good enough or perhaps even overkill?

8 fans is definitely overkill.
3 fans in front and one in back - would be perfectly fine.