Question Frequent and inconsistent BSOD: WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR ?

[clancaster23]

I have been having a fairly often but random BSOD on this computer. (it just did it two more times in typing this) It's the WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR screen. It will do it before I can even put in my passkey to start it up and it could run for hours then freeze. I tested my ram and the windows program says both sticks are good. I also tested the three drives, one NVME M.2, an SSD and an older HD that the OS is on. Windows says all three are healthy and don't show errors. Updated the video card drivers and still after all this it still crashes. Not sure what else to do.

The mobo is a Gigabyte B450M DS3H. Says driver date is 7/20/22 Version 8A16BG05. I'm leary about doing anything with the BIOS as I'm not that knowledgeable about that stuff. CPU is a AMD Ryzen 5 5600x with a Cooler Master 212 EVO cooler on it. GPU is a Gigabyte AMD RX 6650XT. Is there anything else I can do to try to figure out what the issue is? I want to avoid taking it to a shop if it's something simple I could do.

 

[Lutfij]

Gigabyte B450M DS3H
What BIOS version are you currently on for your motherboard?

Updated the video card drivers and still after all this it still crashes.
Can you elaborate on how you did this?

On second thoughts, please pass on your specs like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.

You should also mention where you sourced the installer for your OS and include the .dmp files for us to take a look at.

an older HD that the OS is on
That could your issue. Install the OS on the SSD while all other drives are disconnected and see if the issue persists.

 

[clancaster23]

I got the drives mixed up. The OS is on an SSD, not an older HD although I so still use one on this computer.

Updated the GPU drivers through the Adrenaline program as usual.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600x
CPU cooler: Cooler Master 212 EVO
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450M DS3H / Bios version 8A16BG05 according to the bios screen on startup (F63c)
Ram: 32 GB (two 16 sticks) Corsair Vengeance
SSD/HDD: WDC WD10EZEX-07M2NA0 HD
Crucial CT960BX500SSD1 SSD
Samsung NVME 980 pro (OS Drive)
GPU: RX 6650 XT
PSU: Thermaltake 700W 80+
Chassis: Musetek ATX midtower
OS: Windows 10 Home
Monitor: Three Samsung 27" monitors

I put this computer together back in April of 2020.

As for the dmp files, if I look in C:\Windows\Minidump, there are only three files in there, the latest one is from 3/15/24 so I don't know if that would be useful or not.

 

[ubuysa]

Can you please download and run the SysnativeBSODCollectionApp and upload the resulting zip file to a cloud service with a link to it here. The SysnativeBSODCollectionApp collects all the troubleshooting data we're likely to need. It DOES NOT collect any personally identifying data. It's used by several highly respected Windows help forums (including this one). I'm a senior BSOD analyst on the Sysnative forum where this tool came from, so I know it to be safe.

You can of course look at what's in the zip file before you upload it, most of the files are txt files. Please don't change or delete anything though. If you want a description of what each file contains you'll find that here.

 

[clancaster23]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KnLXdRo9mB7PflttVyzA9swOgmjIE69p/view?usp=drive_link

I think that should work.

 

[ubuysa]

Thanks for the upload.

You have a lot of older drivers installed, one of them (WinRing0x64.sys, used here as a CoolerMaster fan control driver) is dated July 2008 and thus pre-dates Windows 7!! It's also known to be vulnerable to malware, which isn't surprising given its age. You have Acronis drivers dating from February 2017 and Razer drivers dating from 2020. I'm not suggesting that these drivers are causing your problems but drivers of this age are always highly suspect.

You have AMD Ryzen Master installed, are you overclocking with that? If so, remove all overclocks, they are a known source of instability and we'd expect WHEA errors with overly aggressive overclocking. I note also that you have two versions of AMD Ryzen Master installed, I can see both AMDRyzenMasterDriver.sys (dated August 2023 and installed in C:\WINDOWS\system32) and AMDRyzenMasterDriver.sys (dated April 2020 and installed in C:\Program Files\AMD\RyzenMaster\bin\AMDRyzenMasterDriver.sys). That's not wise IMO, kernel drivers aren't normally loaded from the Program Files folder.

The three dumps cover a wide time range from as far back as 2021 and none of them are WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR bugchecks. I do see WHEA errors in your logs however. The common denominator here is RAM. The three bugchecks have all the hallmarks of bad RAM and there are a whole host of 0xC0000005 exception errors (invlaid memory access) in your Application log. Plus the System log shows numberous restarts for no apparent reason - that's almost always a hardware failure (and usually bad RAM).

The Windows memory diagnostic is about as much use as a chocolate teapot, so a RAM test pass there tells you absolutely nothing. We need a more reliable RAM test...

1. Download Memtest86 (free), use the imageUSB.exe tool extracted from the download to make a bootable USB drive containing Memtest86 (1GB is plenty big enough). Do this on a different PC if you can, because you can't fully trust yours at the moment.
2. Then boot that USB drive on your PC, Memtest86 will start running as soon as it boots.
3. If no errors have been found after the four iterations of the 13 different tests that the free version does, then restart Memtest86 and do another four iterations.
4. If you have the time run Memtest86 for as many as four iterations, one after the other. Some RAM problems (and possibly the one you have) can only be detected when the RAM is stressed really hard - hence 4 iterations of Memtest86 run immediately one after the other.
5. Even a single bit error is a failure.

 

[clancaster23]

I ran memtest86 once through and 0 errors on anything. I will try to run it overnight tonight again and possibly run it two times consecutively. But if the ram is good, what else could it be then?

All the random drivers, I'm not sure when and why they are on here. I have a bad memory. I do know that I was potentially looking at overclocking but I do not think I actually did. Not 100% sure on that.

The Acronis, I'm pretty sure that was used to transfer the OS from the old HDD to the SSD that it's on now. At least I think it is. I remember having to use some program to do that.

If I can't find out the solution soon. I may do a total system wipe and start all over. At least then after everything is restarted and if I still get crashing, at least that should wind it down.

 

[Colif]

Gigabyte B450M DS3H

F63C isn't latest BIOS, F66 is.
Updating bios can help WHEA errors.
WHEA - Windows Hardware Error Architecture - error called by CPU but not necessarily caused by it. Can be any hardware.

Rarely I find them to be caused by memory, but perhaps those errors @ubuysa found are the memory controller, which is on CPU itself.

Could the memory errors you are seeing be storage instead? Crucial drives can be problems.

You really need to check all the hardware since we don't know what cause might have been.

SSD/HDD: WDC WD10EZEX-07M2NA0 HD
Crucial CT960BX500SSD1 SSD (OS Drive)
Samsung NVME 980 pro

run this on Western Digital drive, should have tests - https://support-en.wd.com/app/answers/detailweb/a_id/31759/~/download,-install,-test-drive-and-update-firmware-using-western-digital
run Magician on Samsung drive, it has diagnostics - https://semiconductor.samsung.com/consumer-storage/support/tools/
Crucial's tool doesn't have any tests in it but could run crystaldiskinfo (blue icons) - https://crystalmark.info/en/

You have a lot of older drivers installed, one of them (WinRing0x64.sys, used here as a CoolerMaster fan control driver) is dated July 2008 and thus pre-dates Windows 7!!

old dates don't mean that. It could be like what Microsoft do and have a date so far back in past it won't be deleted. I have drivers supposedly from 1948 on here which is impressive. I also have some in the future as well.

 

[ubuysa]

That's true about Microsoft dates, but I've never seen third parties do that, have you?

WHEA BSODs can, in rare circumstances, be caused by bad drivers, so IMO, and given the uncertain state of your system, and bearing in mind that the suspect drivers were talking about are all kernel drivers, I think a clean reinstall might be the fastest way to a solution. It will, at least, indicate whether these are real hardware failures or not.

 

[cwsink]

old dates don't mean that. It could be like what Microsoft do and have a date so far back in past it won't be deleted. I have drivers supposedly from 1948 on here which is impressive. I also have some in the future as well.

Apologies if this is not to what you're referring but Microsoft repurposed the PE header TimeDateStamp field for their Windows modules internally to make daily builds of Windows more efficient. I don't remember exactly the Windows 10 build in which that switch was made (it wasn't that way for the first few releases) but I remember WinDbg one day suddenly showing nonsensical dates for Windows 10 modules and being very confused.

 

[Colif]

That's true about Microsoft dates, but I've never seen third parties do that, have you?

I think I have seen Antivirus programs do it.

Apologies if this is not to what you're referring but Microsoft repurposed the PE header TimeDateStamp field for their Windows modules internally to make daily builds of Windows more efficient. I don't remember exactly the Windows 10 build in which that switch was made (it wasn't that way for the first few releases) but I remember WinDbg one day suddenly showing nonsensical dates for Windows 10 modules and being very confused.

that might be why. thanks

I just noticed I have that 2008 driver on my PC as well. Its used by Fancontrol
https://github.com/Rem0o/FanControl.Releases

 

[clancaster23]

run this on Western Digital drive, should have tests - https://support-en.wd.com/app/answers/detailweb/a_id/31759/~/download,-install,-test-drive-and-update-firmware-using-western-digital

Got this for the WD drive and basically it just says it's a healthy drive. Firmware update was not available for this drive. Ran short and long diagnostics and neither showed any errors.

run Magician on Samsung drive, it has diagnostics - https://semiconductor.samsung.com/consumer-storage/support/tools/

Ran the diagnostics on this, full scan and it does have one bad sector on it. Doing a second scan on it right now just to be sure and that sector is red again. Could this be the problem with my random lockups? Is this a fixable thing or am I going to have to get a replacement drive?

Also should mention that this is the drive that the OS is installed on, not the Cruicial SSD. I keep getting them mixed up.

 

[Colif]

I am not sure if one is enough.

Can you show us a screenshot?

Image posting via Imgur

go here - https://imgur.com/ you might need to set up a user. click on New Post which will display next screen where you can select image(s) - hold Ctrl while selecting images in explorer to get multiple Once uploaded, images will show on the next page right clicking an image (once its shown...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[clancaster23]

I do not but if you're familiar with what that looks like, the one bad sector was I believe on the fifth row down and sixth square in from the right. I scanned it twice and it was the same one both times. Whether it is causing the BSOD issues or not, from what I read these need to be returned and they will send a new one back. Currently working on the RMA now.

Seeing as how this drive has my OS on it, I'm going to have to figure out what to do. Either add a second regular SSD drive to transfer the OS over to it before I have to send back the NVME drive or I may just get a new motherboard that can handle two NVME drives, get a new NVME drive for it and just get a new install of Windows 11 on it then send this one in and wait for a replacement. Then I'll have two NVME drives, new mootherboard and new OS. I figure that should clear up my BSOD issue.

Speaking of that, it did it twice yesterday but so far today, not once.

 

[Colif]

Seeing as how this drive has my OS on it, I'm going to have to figure out what to do. Either add a second regular SSD drive to transfer the OS over to it before I have to send back the NVME drive or I may just get a new motherboard that can handle two NVME drives, get a new NVME drive for it and just get a new install of Windows 11 on it then send this one in and wait for a replacement. Then I'll have two NVME drives, new mootherboard and new OS. I figure that should clear up my BSOD issue.

Just buy an ssd and install windows on it, a sata drive easier to add than the other choice.

 

[clancaster23]

That's exactly what I'm going to do. I'm wondering what should be the steps to doing so though. I already ordered a new SSD to put it on and I have the RMA started on the NVMe, just have to wait for the new SSD to get here tomorrow and I can get going but in what order should I do this?

I'm thinking when I get it, install it in the computer, fire it up and get the Windows 11 installed on it then shut it down, go into the bios and reconfigure my boot order so the new SSD is first. Start it up and should be good to go? Or is there another way to do this?

 

[Colif]

Sorry i was slow to react

i would take all drives except the new ssd out and install windows on it, then reattach any you want to use

leaving nvme in might mean windows install would put the boot partition on the nvme, which isn't ideal since you need to replace it.

then when you get new nvme, you can install windows on it (with ssd out of PC) and removing the temporary windows install can be done by booting into advanced startup and

Pick troubleshoot
Pick advanced
Pick Command Prompt

Type diskpart and press enter

Type list disk and press enter

This will show the list of drives currently attached to PC, make note of the drive number of the drive you want to wipe

If Disk 1 is the drive you want to clear, type select 1) and press enter. A message will confirm it is selected

Warning: Diskpart Erase/Clean will permanently erase/destroy all data on the selected drive. Please be certain that you are erasing the correct disk.

Once you sure its right disk, type Clean and press enter

The Command Prompt window will display the message "DiskPart succeeded in cleaning the disk". Close out of the Command Prompt window by clicking the red X in the upper right hand corner.

 

[clancaster23]

Ok, have a problem I can't figure out now... here's what I did in order:

Downloaded the Windows Media Creation Tool to a USB. Had to do the iso version and used Rufus to transfer that over to the USB stick since for some reason it wouldn't go on it the normal way.

Shut down computer, removed the NVMe, unplugged the sata cables from the mother board for the other two drives. Plugged in the new SSD into an unused slot in the motherboard and plugged in the power cable for it. The new ssd is the only drive connected to the computer.

Plugged everything into the computer again and powered it on. It went to the first few Windows install screens and I chose Windows 11 Home. It started the install process and got to where it needed to restart. This is when things went screwy.

It shut down but not completely off. The CPU cooler fan was not running or lit up but the case fans were all still going. I gave it at least five minutes to start back up but nothing. I manually turn it off and try to start it back up and I get almost nothing. The fans would move for just a split second but nothing happens. I get to looking this issue up and see that sometimes a certain Windows 11 update may screw up the bios so I unplug it and pop the battery out of the motherboard and also do the screw driver on the CMOS pins to reset that way too. I wait a few minutes and try to start it again. This time it's like after it reset. Case fans are on but CPU cooler fans are not. I wait a couple to see what it will do. Nothing. I manually shut it off and try to start it. Back to it doing nothing at all like it's totally dead.

So after thinking it probably either fried the CPU, mobo or the power supply, I unplug the new ssd, I put the NVMe back in, plugged in the other two drives and see what happens. After having to go in the bios and make sure the NVMe is first boot, it starts right up and here I am back where I was a couple hours ago.

Anyone have any idea what I should do now or why this even happened? Did the new SSD die?

 

[clancaster23]

Now I'm thinking it's more a motherboard issue. I can't even get it to get past the bios logo screen. I've tried just the nvme, nothing. Tried seeing if I could get it to resume installing windows on the new drive and actually got it to a screen that said it had stopped before it was finished and to resume, click ok. I click ok and if totally died. If it does that, I have to do the jumper trick to reset it to get it to even try to start up again but it doesn't. I think I'm going to do a partial new build.

 

[Colif]

If windows didn't complete the install, that might be why its stopped where it is on boot screen.

you probably need to wipe the ssd
go into installer and clean the drive

Spoiler

Boot from installer

On screen after language choice, pick repair pc, not install

Pick troubleshoot

Pick advanced

Pick Command Prompt

Type diskpart and press enter

Type list disk and press enter

This will show the list of drives currently attached to PC, make note of the drive number of the drive you want to wipe

If Disk 1 is the drive you want to clear, type select 1) and press enter. A message will confirm it is selected

Warning: Diskpart Erase/Clean will permanently erase/destroy all data on the selected drive. Please be certain that you are erasing the correct disk.

Once you sure its right disk, type Clean and press enter

The Command Prompt window will display the message "DiskPart succeeded in cleaning the disk". Close out of the Command Prompt window by clicking the red X in the upper right hand corner.

Once its clean you should be able to do the install again..

thing is, wonder why it stopped on the restart. You don't mention changing boot order or anything to get it to boot off the USB? Did you do anything like that?

your motherboard had Boot over ride, it lets you boot off a USB drive once without the need to change boot order (shows on page 35 here - https://download.gigabyte.com/FileL...e_1101.pdf?v=71eb64ad61e14ab5634291a6b519794a ). You could have used that to boot and keep boot order as is...

But I suspect it didn't need you to do that since no drives present with a boot sector apart from the USB.

Did you take USB out after the restart? As removing after the restart can break the install too.

you might want to reset bios, shouldn't need to but it might help.