Gateway FX 6800-01e BIOS Update from Gateway Unsupported

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Glad you got it to update successfully, although you surprised me by editing your innitial post instead of just replying back. :)

You could try the Hacked BIOS, browse back through this thread to find it.

Another thing would be Liquid cooling.
A few posts back, I posted some information with a couple of links to some Liquid cooling hardware.

The Core i7 basically is a self OC'ing processor, but at the same time, processor speed is tied to processor
temperature. So the cooler you can keep the processor, the better chance you will have of getting higher
speeds out of it. Liquid Cooling would be your best bet for this along with the hacked BIOS.
 
welll i have a cooling fan which keeps me at 40 degrees celcius, what about hacking the bios? and how do you do that?
I did not feel like double posting as i know how that gets annoying
 
You don't need to hack the BIOS, there is a BIOS which is already hacked by someone who is familiar with such stuff and knows what they are doing. There is a link to the Hacked BIOS posted earlier in this thread based on the newest BIOS release.
 
Yup, you got it!

What they did what to take the Gateway BIOS and basically they edited it to unlock some features, although it's a lot more complicated than that.

But you follow the same procedure I outlined for updating the BIOS as before.
 
i just dont know if its reliable, or creditable you know. What about desktop programs that OC your system? adn do you know what page the link is for the download?
 
Ok, I just woke up about half an hour ago and I' still on my first Mug of coffee.

-

The Hacked BIOS was posted here by MelodyChloe and this was the second one she posted which by the way was the newest Gateway BIOS after it had been hacked.

If you have your replies set to 50 per page, then her first post will be page 5 of the thread, 39 posts down the page.

-

Use the information from the other thread for updating your BIOS after you locate the Hacked BIOS.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/267550-30-fx6800-bios-842p181g

As for programs that OC your system, I honestly don't know of any designed for multi-core systems and even then, you need to be careful of Rogue programs. That is to say, programs pretending to be what they're not just so they can install some nasty Malware on your system.
 
Hey Renegade...first thanks so much for your work on this thread....a BIG help.

Second, I noticed on your cpuid that you had multiplier of 21 on your cpu....how did you get that option?

Mine only goes to 20.

Best,

Bjhaber
 
That must be the self OC'ing kicking in as the key is to keep the processor running as cool as possible. :)

I haven't spent any money on liquid cooling yet, but I plan to soon as possible.
Currrently my system is purely air cooled and I use an air compressor to blow out all the dust periodically.

I'm sure that if I were to get the system to run cooler than it is now, that the CPU-Z Validator would show a higher multiplier value than it currently shows. :)
 
first of i would like to thank you Renegade_Warior for sparing time to answer all my ignorant questions.

i've been away for a while and just finally bought a new HDD that you recommended along with a new corsair 700 PSU. haven't opened the psu yet.

i connected the new drive to the SATA 1 as the original config was connected to SATA 6. the two empty drive bay were the one's connected to SATA 1and 2.

So now how will i go about in the bios since pressing f10 doesn't do anything. i can go to f2 for the bios. i remember i choose f2 and go to the bios and then choose the advance bios settings where i can find the first boot in which when it broke it was the dvd-rom was the first boot and nothing else that i could change.

shall i just choose F2 and go to the advance bios settings?
right now i'm still waiting for this f10. it is still doing nothing.
when will i load the recovery disk.
stilll haven't bought win7 yet. wife doesn't allow.

again thanks in advance.

Yes, that's the same hard drive I have in my system and Western Digital is very reliable. WD is also very good with warrantying their drives.

With partitioning the drive, you can use the laptop, but you will need something such as an external SATA drive case or SATA drive dock to connect the drive.

As to the partitions, it doesn't really matter if they are formatted or not. But the main thing is the recovery partition will be converted automatically to EXT2 and changed to an EISA partition. The primary partition will be formatted during setup.

-

The only reason I've given you instructions to recreate the recovery partition is because of what you have told me of your technical skills and from the fact that it seems you're basically still running the factory default setup.

Preferably though, don't bother with the recovery partition and do a CLEAN installation of Windows 7. That is to say, do not restore your previous version of windows to the system.

OEM software generally requires you to make a hardware purchase at the same time (loose interpretation). Generally in the case of an operating system such as windows, OEM is supposed to be sold with a new PC. But many places such as NewEgg will sell OEM by itself.

Upgrade requires that you have a previous installation present to qualify before it will proceed with the installation.

Full Retail (or OEM) does not require a previous installation to proceed.

Just make sure the copy you get is legit and not a cracked copy which can
happen if you get it off eBay, Craigslist or some other places.

The recovery partition is what OEM's (manufacturers) use to hold a complete copy of the system the way it was when you first purchased it along with any software and drivers which were pre-installed. This partition will also usually hold some system tools among other stuff and the recovery files in the EISA partition are usually updated periodically.

Personally, I don't bother with the EISA partition unless someone is keeping things much as it was when they purchased it.

As for a Power Supply, if they don't have the one you want, just look for one with higher wattage then such as an 800 or higher and make sure it has the correct connectors for your video card and you motherboard. I like the modular power supplies.

Hopefully this reply wasn't too much to digest. :)

Good Luck
Click to expand...
 
Ok, you don't use F10 while in the BIOS.

F10 is used during the boot sequence to allow you to chose the Boot Device.

If you've had the Gateway logo screen disabled in the BIOS as I hope you have, then you would see the boot screen where you see the actual boot sequence, especially in the beginning where it gives you the options for F2 for BIOS, F10 for BBboard (Boot Sequence Select) I think there was one more option too, but I don't recall without physically rebooting. :)

After that point, you would see the rest of the bootup sequence where it would detect the drives and peripherals, then it would detect the boot drive and begin to boot.

-

So just verify all your BIOS settings to be sure everything is correct and that the new drive is showing up and set as the Boot Drive. Somewhere in the beginning of the thread, I posted some settings for the BIOS which you might want to refer to, but basically, the BIOS is mostly common sense.

Once you get everything set, you can boot from your setup DVD by using F10 after the system starts the boot sequence.

Just be sure you have everything you need on hand for the installation, Install DVD, Windows Key (IF upgrade - verification source such as a restore DVD or a Backup Disk - Might need to contact Microsoft if necessary)

It may be best for you to have someone there to help you with this who is familiar with working on the technical side of computers.

Cause right now I'm afraid I can't really do much of anything else to help you at this point as the ball so to speak is in your hands now. Remote Tech Support really isn't my strong point. If you were here beside me right now with your system, I'd be able to have it up and running in no time.

I'm fairly certain you can do this with a little help from someone local who could show you first hand what I can't very well explain or show to you remotely.

Not only that, my head feels like it's in a fog today, very hard to think clearly. Having to reread this several times just to correct my own writing. I'm sure I probably missed a few mistakes due to my foggy head.

Good Luck
 
Quick question to you all...I had to pull all my connections off the mobo and have put them all back...except for powersw...can for the life of me figure out what pins those go on. Can anyone help on this?

Thanks!
 

I assume you're referring to the jumper for the power switch?

With the system standing up and the side off, look at the bottom edge of the motherboard
where you see a pinout block of what appears to be 14 pins. (2 rows of 7)

On the bottom row starting from the front of the system, leave 2 empty pins and plug
the powersw plug with the red & white wires into the next 2 pins.

□□□□□□□
□□□■■□□ The two black pins mark where you plug it in.
 
i think i didn't explain it well. pardon my english because it is my second language i'm filipino.

the f10 that i am talking about is when after the gateway logo (don't know how to disable) comes where in the bottom right corner is where you find f2 for bios and f10 for boot sequence. when i press f10 there is nothing happening. but if i wait for a couple minutes later it will tell me to put a media on the dvd-rom.

that is why ask how will i go about in the bios. if i can change the boot sequence in the bios in which i can still access by pressing f2 after the gateway logo appears from rebbot. i did not press f10 when in the bios.

i think the new drive is still not detected.

the friend that i called is from another state and is not coming over. i'm almost giving up on this. technicians in our area is very expensive. also i wanna learn how to fix this but this is driving me nuts.
i learned photoshop, autocad, corel, and vegas without school but i just can't fix this pc hardware. i can make a cabinet while asleep.

when i bought this in best buy dec. 08 the guy told me that this is their best pc. a high end model. it only lasted a year. i still have three pc's that ages 11, 8 and 7 years. they still run but just can't cope with the new softwares that i'm using.



i want to say thank you renegade for your help.

Ok, you don't use F10 while in the BIOS.

F10 is used during the boot sequence to allow you to chose the Boot Device.

If you've had the Gateway logo screen disabled in the BIOS as I hope you have, then you would see the boot screen where you see the actual boot sequence, especially in the beginning where it gives you the options for F2 for BIOS, F10 for BBboard (Boot Sequence Select) I think there was one more option too, but I don't recall without physically rebooting. :)

After that point, you would see the rest of the bootup sequence where it would detect the drives and peripherals, then it would detect the boot drive and begin to boot.

-

So just verify all your BIOS settings to be sure everything is correct and that the new drive is showing up and set as the Boot Drive. Somewhere in the beginning of the thread, I posted some settings for the BIOS which you might want to refer to, but basically, the BIOS is mostly common sense.

Once you get everything set, you can boot from your setup DVD by using F10 after the system starts the boot sequence.

Just be sure you have everything you need on hand for the installation, Install DVD, Windows Key (IF upgrade - verification source such as a restore DVD or a Backup Disk - Might need to contact Microsoft if necessary)

It may be best for you to have someone there to help you with this who is familiar with working on the technical side of computers.

Cause right now I'm afraid I can't really do much of anything else to help you at this point as the ball so to speak is in your hands now. Remote Tech Support really isn't my strong point. If you were here beside me right now with your system, I'd be able to have it up and running in no time.

I'm fairly certain you can do this with a little help from someone local who could show you first hand what I can't very well explain or show to you remotely.

Not only that, my head feels like it's in a fog today, very hard to think clearly. Having to reread this several times just to correct my own writing. I'm sure I probably missed a few mistakes due to my foggy head.

Good Luck
Click to expand...
 
Ok, I understand now, I hope.

After the changes are made, then once you see the hit F10 for BBS Pop Up, you only have roughly about 2 seconds to hit the F10 key before it's too late. Once you do hit it, the system waits till it finishes the Boot up sequence, then instead of loading Windows, it should ask you which drive to boot from.

I went and looked through the beginning of the thread for the settings.

Advanced BIOS Features

- Quick Boot = Disabled
- Quiet Boot = Disabled <<---- This will show Bootup Sequence instead of Gateway Logo

Integrated Peripherals

- Onboard SATA Mode - - - - - - - AHCI <<- - - - - - - External SATA Ports (Back of system)
- Onboard ESATA Controller - -- - AHCI Mode <<- - - - Internal SATA Ports
- Onboard USB Controller - - -- - - Enabled
- Legacy USB Support - - - - - - - Enabled
- Onboard LAN Controller - - -- - - Enabled
- Onboard LAN Option ROM - - -- - Disabled
- Onboard Audio Controller - - -- - Enabled
- Onboard 1394 Controller - - - - - Enabled
- Serial Port1 Address - - - - - - - 3F8/IRQ4

Power Management Setup

- ACPI Aware O/S - - - - - - - - - - Yes

PC Health Status

- Smart Fan -- - - - - - - - - - - - - Enabled by Default <<- -If disable, Fan will run noticeably Louder, But system will run cooler.

Frequency/Voltage Control

- Spread Spectrum - - - - - - - - Enabled <<- - - - Default setting.
 
hi everyone i finally got it up and running.

a big thanks to you Renegade_Warrior for all your help.
i did your bios settings it is almost identical to to the default except for the quite boot disabled and the smart fan. i just enabled back the smartfan because it is just too loud for me.

but i know your expecting for a but.
this problem was from when the machine first came out with the blinking cursor issue. what i can remember was disabling the ATI HDMI audio. Of course it was just a temporary fix. There was a permanent fix but for the life of me i couldn't find it anywhere i search.

Does anyone remember the blinking cursor issue fix? i think it was a driver update or something.

i also realize that the bios update that i am talking about was the bios last year that i updated successfuly with renegades help. didn't know there's a new one until i read a couple pages back. is there any noticeable boost in performance?

thank you again.



Ok, I understand now, I hope.

After the changes are made, then once you see the hit F10 for BBS Pop Up, you only have roughly about 2 seconds to hit the F10 key before it's too late. Once you do hit it, the system waits till it finishes the Boot up sequence, then instead of loading Windows, it should ask you which drive to boot from.

I went and looked through the beginning of the thread for the settings.

Advanced BIOS Features

- Quick Boot = Disabled
- Quiet Boot = Disabled <<---- This will show Bootup Sequence instead of Gateway Logo

Integrated Peripherals

- Onboard SATA Mode - - - - - - - AHCI <<- - - - - - - External SATA Ports (Back of system)
- Onboard ESATA Controller - -- - AHCI Mode <<- - - - Internal SATA Ports
- Onboard USB Controller - - -- - - Enabled
- Legacy USB Support - - - - - - - Enabled
- Onboard LAN Controller - - -- - - Enabled
- Onboard LAN Option ROM - - -- - Disabled
- Onboard Audio Controller - - -- - Enabled
- Onboard 1394 Controller - - - - - Enabled
- Serial Port1 Address - - - - - - - 3F8/IRQ4

Power Management Setup

- ACPI Aware O/S - - - - - - - - - - Yes

PC Health Status

- Smart Fan -- - - - - - - - - - - - - Enabled by Default <<- -If disable, Fan will run noticeably Louder, But system will run cooler.

Frequency/Voltage Control

- Spread Spectrum - - - - - - - - Enabled <<- - - - Default setting.
Click to expand...
 
The biggest thing is NOT to install any of the Gateway (Acer) crap that came with the system.

If you can do a Clean install without any of that garbage, and use the newest drivers for your system, then you shouldn't have the blinking cursor problem.

Intel Matrix Storage Manager 9.​6.​0.​1014 64-bit
- New name - Intel(R) Rapid Storage Technology

- ATI Catalyst 10.3 64-bit
- RealTek HD Audio Driver version R2.47 32/64 bits (download the Zipped file)
- Sun Java Jre 6.0 update 20 64-bit

For any files or drivers you need, always get the newest ones directly from the company that makes the files or drivers, not from Gateway. The only thing you may need to get from Gateway is any Firmware updates if any.

As to the latest publicly released firmware?

As far as I can tell, it seems to run stable and does add a few extra options in the BIOS.
I haven't run into any problems with it yet.

Sound Blaster software is not needed in Windows 7 and last I knew, would not work right either.
 
Just updated my last reply as Sun Java 6.0 Update 20 was just released today.

Once you install it, you need to make sure that there are no old versions left on your system.
 
i installed the itel matrix storage and the realtek hd audio driver. on the realtek hd audio driver there where choices and i did not know which so i chose the ati hdmi. after install restart pc and there is this LED Hotkey keyboard on the taskbar that doesn't do anything when i click it. i can see it in task manager and end it's task. what i did is stop the LchDrvKey in system config startup and it was gone when i restarted.
by the way the realtek install solved the flickering cursor issue thank you for that.

i already have installed the ATI Catalyst and the java the other night. i will update the java this afternoon for the new one.

i think i really need win7 for clean install but it is gonna be later.
she is contented with this running. did you have any idea if i can do a clean install using the recovery disks? i've senn downloadable iso but i'm scared of it being dirty.
 
Well if this was a new setup and haven't upgraded to Windows 7 yet and would like to upgrade to Win7, you can do so. Just do a Custom installation and select New installation. You do not need to delete the partition or anything else. During the install, windows will create a directory called Windows.old and it'll move the old Windows directory into this directory along with your old profile and a bunch of other stuff. So you'll still have a clean install.

You'll still need to install the Intel , ATI, RealTek, and other drivers. Just don't install the Gateway crap.

The LED hotkey keyboard you mentioned, the only thing I've seen like that is to show whether or not your Caps Lock, Scroll Lock or Num Lock is on or off. But I've only seen that on HP systems. If that is what you're referring to, you don't need that item.

The RealTek HD driver you need is for the ALC888 HD chipset

I find, the new Intel Rapid Storage Technology driver works a lot better than the
old Intel Matrix Storage Manager.
 
I can't find the realtek hd driver. when i click on the link above it will open to realtek high definition audio codecs. then check the accept box and click next and it brings me to this http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/downloadsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=14&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false in which i can only choose versions for Windows OS and linux and that is where i chose the ATI HDMI Audio device. R2.42

if i type ALC888 to the download search it will bring me to this http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/searchView.aspx?keyword=alc888
data sheets and reference design.

and by the way the link you put above for the intel matrix storage was actually for the intel rapid storage i already installed it last night.
 
When you check the box and click the button, it brings you back to the same page again.

you have to do this twice before it'll bring you to the driver download page.

I just tried updating to the latest driver myself after downloading it and for some reason I keep getting an error every time. Not sure why, but it might have something to do with everything else having been updated past what the installer is expecting in the way of run times?

I really don't know on this one, but I'm running Win7 x64 wioth everything completely up to date including the new NET Framework 4.0 which was just released yesturday.

It's not too often that this happens, but this time I just feel like screaming from frustration! :)

Oh well, forget about that one and let Windows install the latest one in the Windows Update Database. I'm sure RealTek will take notice of that error soon enough and fix it.
 
Greetings, I have some quick question I’m trying to find the answers to, my questions may have been answered here already so my apologies for re-asking. So let me get right into it...

My main question is I just installed the Intel Matrix Storage Manager and it is saying that my drive that has the OS on it is an external drive but it’s not, any idea why it may be saying that?

Is the 2/18/2009 bios update on Gateways site the one I should be using?

Is there a new chipset/motherboard driver other than the one from gateway?

I think that’s it for now, I’m also still on vista if you needed to know.
And sorry if all this has been asked and answered before.


Added question
I was looking back on some of your posts and saw one about the SATA ports, you where answering a question about adding a new hard driver b/c the one he had died. You said to put it in SATA port 1. Right now my OS drive is in port 5 I think. I’m guessing you’re going to say that I should move it to port 1, but I also have a 1tb WD black that is in port 6. Should the OS drive be in port 1, the 1tb WD in port 2 and the CD drive in 3?

 
Yes, you should correct the SATA connectors on the drive ports, but when you do so, you will need to go into the BIOS and correct the Boot Drive setting so it'll boot from the correct drive or it'll say no OS found when you try to boot.

If you still have the Gateway (Acer) Recovery program install for creating the Recovery Disks which you're supposed to create after you first setup your system, there is one serious side effect of that program if you don't correct the drive connectors.

The Gateway Recovery program accesses the EISA partition on your OS drive and on that drive is some scripts which it runs. Basically what will happen if you run that program with some other drive connected to SATA-0 the partition of drive will be entirely converted to an EISA Partition which you will find to be a big inconvenience to deal with.

This thread has a wealth of information in it as you will find. :)

The latest Publicly released BIOS is FX6800_BIOS_842P181G.zip from 12/23/2009

The following thread here has the information for the latest BIOS.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/267550-30-fx6800-bios-842p181g
 
OK so the os drive is back in port 1. now for the CD and my other 1tb drive does it matter what port i use? just asking b/c this system is not the same any more it all got moved into a new case and the CD drive was moved so i don't know where it started.

Also on a side note after the pc starts up and is all loaded up the screen will flicker not all of it just some random black bars. There is also a safe remove hardwired in the system tray and if i click on it the screen will start to flicker. The items in it are my 1tb WD and a d-link wireless USB adapter any ideas?
 
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