Question Graphics Card Causes Boot Issue

[notnicksaylor]

ThermalTake Smart 700w PSU
i7 9700
32 GB RAM 3200 MHZ
Gtx 1660 trying to replace with RTX 4060
ASUS PRIME z390P motherboard

Hi all, Ive just purchased an RTX 4060 to replace my gtx 1660 TI. I have a 700 W PSU. When I put my card into my computer, everything would turn on, including the cards fans, but would turn back off within just a second or two and the machine would power cycle indefinitely. I took the 4060 out, and put the 1660 back in, and I was greeted with a display so I assumed that I had insufficient power for the 4060. I found that odd so I put the 4060 into a different machine that has a 500 w PSU. That machine booted with the 4060.

I put the 4060 back into my primary computer and when I pressed the start button, everything started, but I got no display. The fans on the card stop after 2-5 seconds. Still no display, but also no power cycle. The machine is functioning as if there is no graphics card connected to it. If I unplug the PCIE, I can see the red light on the card indicating to me that the cable has become unplugged, so I know it is still powered.

I decided to swap the 1660 back in as a test just to make sure the machine is still working, and as it turned out, the exact same issue occured. No display, but everything runs as if it were working. I moved it down to the second GPU slot and I was met with the same issue. I then decidedto put the 1660 into the other machine and found that this exact same issue occured. Uh oh, must have broken the card? The fans stop on the 1660 after 30 seconds id say. Now both graphics cards are producing this same response in the primary machine. Any help?

Slight update: The 1660 launched inside of the test machine. The card is in fact functioning. I decided to plug my HDMI into the Mobo directly and I still have no display at all.

 

[Aeacus]

ThermalTake Smart 700w PSU

Low quality PSU. Replace it with far better quality one, like Seasonic Focus/PRIME or Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi.
Pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/RzfFf7,WJM48d/

(All 3 of my PCs are also powered by Seasonic, full specs with pics in my sig.)

Also, 2nd PC has different PSU, my guess, better quality one than your Tt Smart series, hence why both GPUs work there.

 

[notnicksaylor]

Low quality PSU. Replace it with far better quality one, like Seasonic Focus/PRIME or Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi.
Pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/RzfFf7,WJM48d/

(All 3 of my PCs are also powered by Seasonic, full specs with pics in my sig.)

Also, 2nd PC has different PSU, my guess, better quality one than your Tt Smart series, hence why both GPUs work there.

I appreciate the response and advice, and I will utilize the advice. However, I question why I can not achieve a boot at all on this PC now? The entire thing runs but there is no sign of a display at all, plugged into any graphics card or any display. I would assume that if I plugged the 1660 back in that the PC has used for years, its should work given nothing else has changed.

I actually think the correct word is POST, not boot. I can start it but I get no sign of life aside from hearing the machine run and seeing lights.

 

[Aeacus]

Low quality PSUs, often, feed out of spec voltages to the hardware, damaging them over time. Or even outright killing them. Also, low quality PSUs aren't reliable and when they go "pop", they have the magical ability to fry everything they are connected to (aka your whole PC).
The better the PSU's build quality - the less chance of PSU frying other components when PSU dies.

As it stands currently, and based on your symptoms, it is possible that your Tt unit damaged/fried your MoBo as well. Hence why there's no POST.

So, get your hands on good quality PSU. Now, if system doesn't work even with good quality, known to work PSU, then your Tt unit fried something else as well. Possible deaths would be CPU, MoBo or RAM (or all of them). Since you've validated GPUs and these work, for now.
Also, you can remove GPU from the system and connect monitor to MoBo. Your CPU has iGPU in it. - Don't try that with your Tt unit though.

MoBo is usually 1st to go when PSU acts up. RAM can also die due to out of spec voltages. And CPU is the most durable component inside the PC, but not invulnerable either.

Regarding, PSUs, here's price comparison between 4x 700W range PSUs, your Tt unit + 3 others,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/b8Jkcf,64cMnQ,Yp3mP6,6NcG3C/

Can you tell me, why your Tt PSU is easy 2-2.5 times cheaper than e.g Corsair RMx or Seasonic Focus GX? Or up to 6x times cheaper compared to Seasonic PRIME TX?

 

[notnicksaylor]

Low quality PSUs, often, feed out of spec voltages to the hardware, damaging them over time. Or even outright killing them. Also, low quality PSUs aren't reliable and when they go "pop", they have the magical ability to fry everything they are connected to (aka your whole PC).
The better the PSU's build quality - the less chance of PSU frying other components when PSU dies.

As it stands currently, and based on your symptoms, it is possible that your Tt unit damaged/fried your MoBo as well. Hence why there's no POST.

So, get your hands on good quality PSU. Now, if system doesn't work even with good quality, known to work PSU, then your Tt unit fried something else as well. Possible deaths would be CPU, MoBo or RAM (or all of them). Since you've validated GPUs and these work, for now.
Also, you can remove GPU from the system and connect monitor to MoBo. Your CPU has iGPU in it. - Don't try that with your Tt unit though.

MoBo is usually 1st to go when PSU acts up. RAM can also die due to out of spec voltages. And CPU is the most durable component inside the PC, but not invulnerable either.

Regarding, PSUs, here's price comparison between 4x 700W range PSUs, your Tt unit + 3 others,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/b8Jkcf,64cMnQ,Yp3mP6,6NcG3C/

Can you tell me, why your Tt PSU is easy 2-2.5 times cheaper than e.g Corsair RMx or Seasonic Focus GX? Or up to 6x times cheaper compared to Seasonic PRIME TX?

Thank you for your reply. The mother board or CPU are in fact damaged. I part swapped everything else into a functioning build. I attatched a new MSI power supply to this broken build and was met with the same issue. To confirm the issue was at least a dead board, I put the motherboard speaker on it and removed the RAM. When I should have gotten beeps I got none, confirming to me that the MOBO is in fact dead. Unfortunately with LGA 1151 being largely phased out, I paid a premium to purchase my board again. It will arrive within a week or two and I will update the thread with the outcome. Im currently expecting that the CPU is not damaged, as from my research the CPU is the least likely part to be fried in this event. RAM was still functioning, so Im hopeful that if its not damaged, the CPU may not be either.

 

[Aeacus]

the CPU may not be either.

Can't tell for sure before new MoBo arrives. And even then, you may get successful POST and boot to OS, but if you're going to experience plenty of BSoD, then CPU might have sustained damage as well.

So, all-in-all, was buying the cheap Tt Smart series PSU worth it? Did it save you money?

 

[notnicksaylor]

I just now logged back in to my account. I appreciate your help with this issue. You were in fact dead on the money and the mobo wound up being totally fried for the reason you stated. Luckily, there was no other damage to the hardware and I was able to install all existing parts (except for that i bought a quality PSU) on the new motherboard. I learned a lot doing that rebuild, and while it was an expensive lesson, it is a lesson well learned. And although your last comment was a little snarky, I will answer that no the cheap PSU did not save me money lol! When i bought that PSU, which was 3-5 years before it finally shit the bed, I did not know anything about a difference between good PSU and bad PSU. I have since then learned my lesson of course. I will select your comment as the solution.

 

[notnicksaylor]

this was the comment that correctly described the exact occurence, and gave the proper solution.

Low quality PSUs, often, feed out of spec voltages to the hardware, damaging them over time. Or even outright killing them. Also, low quality PSUs aren't reliable and when they go "pop", they have the magical ability to fry everything they are connected to (aka your whole PC).
The better the PSU's build quality - the less chance of PSU frying other components when PSU dies.

As it stands currently, and based on your symptoms, it is possible that your Tt unit damaged/fried your MoBo as well. Hence why there's no POST.

So, get your hands on good quality PSU. Now, if system doesn't work even with good quality, known to work PSU, then your Tt unit fried something else as well. Possible deaths would be CPU, MoBo or RAM (or all of them). Since you've validated GPUs and these work, for now.
Also, you can remove GPU from the system and connect monitor to MoBo. Your CPU has iGPU in it. - Don't try that with your Tt unit though.

MoBo is usually 1st to go when PSU acts up. RAM can also die due to out of spec voltages. And CPU is the most durable component inside the PC, but not invulnerable either.

Regarding, PSUs, here's price comparison between 4x 700W range PSUs, your Tt unit + 3 others,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/b8Jkcf,64cMnQ,Yp3mP6,6NcG3C/

Can you tell me, why your Tt PSU is easy 2-2.5 times cheaper than e.g Corsair RMx or Seasonic Focus GX? Or up to 6x times cheaper compared to Seasonic PRIME TX?

 

[Aeacus]

And although your last comment was a little snarky, I will answer that no the cheap PSU did not save me money lol!

While i'm a bit harsh on this part (cheaping out on PSU), everything to do with power delivery (PSU and UPS) is serious business. I've seen people cheap out on PSU time and time again. And sole reason to buy such a cheap and low quality PSU - is to save money. Sure, not all people know that not all PSUs are created equal, but what other reason there is, to buy cheap PSU, other than to save money? E.g $55 PSU vs $120 PSU.

But in the long run, when cheap/low quality PSU fries the components (has happen before and will happen in future, to anyone who cheap out on PSU), the total cost is actually far greater than going with good quality PSU off the bat. And in worst case scenarios, crap quality PSUs have catched fire, burnt down entire homes and even lives have been lost.

Then again, experience is the hardest kind of teacher. It gives you the test first, and the lesson afterward.
Or in other words: never cheap out on PSU. Also, never buy used PSU either.