I have a Compaq Prescario SR5710F. It has a 320 gig sata hd, a dvd/cd burner, 4 gigs of ram with windows vista 32bit. I changed the 240w powersupply to a 550w and added a radeon hd 4670 video card. I wanted to add a Maxtor Diamondmax Plus 9 200gb SATA HD. The one that's already in there doesn't have any jumps on it. I've tried every configuration possible. Setting it up as slave, master, cable select, master w/CLJ, slave w/CLJ, and CS w/CLJ and it just won't boot to windows. I check the BIOs and it shows the harddrive when I put it on slave or master, but it won't show the HD when I set it up as cable select. When BIOs does recognize the HD it will go to the windows loadign screen, the one with the bar and green dots but it'll never go past that screen. If I let it sit there it will just freeze up eventually. A friend of mine suggested I take off all the jumpers which I did. It would boot to windows then but not show the HD. I'm at a loss of what to do now. Any info or suggestions? ;_; Help!
First of all, you will have to find out how to fix all the changes you made to the jumpers because you have been using them wrong! There is NO jumper setting for Master, Slave or CS on ANY SATA unit! The jumpers that may exist are for different purposes altogether. Some makers have used one jumper to force slower 1.5 Gb/s data transfer speeds for compatibility with older SATA controllers. There are a couple of other uses for jumper blocks on SATA drives that are unique for each manufacturer. So, stop thinking in terms of Master and Slave settings, and go to Seagate / Maxtor website and find out how the jumper on your new drive (the right model number!) is really supposed to be set. And do NOT try to use the instructions for an IDE drive on a SATA drive. Pay attention to the question of forcing 1.5 Gb/s speed for a SATA controller connection. I don't know your Compaq machine, but if its SATA mobo controllers are the original type (i.e., not SATA II) you may have to set the jumper for that.
I am going to assume that you intended to continue using the 320 GB original drive in the machine as the boot drive, and you were simply going to add the Maxtor 200 GB unit as a data storage device you will NOT boot from. I expect the 320 unit is connected to a SATA port - probably SATA_0. You also have an optical drive installed, maybe on another SATA port or maybe as the Master on an IDE port. None of that needs to change. Now you have a Maxtor SATA drive being added in, and it will be connected to a third (or second) SATA port on the mobo.
The rest of your installation adjustments are all in BIOS Setup, probably in just two places. First you go into Integrated Peripherals where the SATA ports are configured. Ensure that all the SATA ports you are trying to use are Enabled. On each port (maybe one setting for all?) you have choices of up to 4 modes: IDE (or PATA) Emulation, native SATA, AHCI, or RAID. Check how the setting is for your original HDD, and just make the mode for the Maxtor new unit the same.
Next go to the place where you set the Boot Priority Sequence. My guess is it is set already to try the optical drive first, and the older existing 320 GB drive next. It should NOT try to boot from the new Maxtor 200 GB unit. Now Save and Exit, and your system should simply boot up from the original 320 GB drive. My Computer should show you the Maxtor as a new drive.
If the Maxtor is a brand new empty drive with no Partition established on it and Formatted, it will NOT show up in My Computer. An empty drive needs a couple of preparation steps before Windows can use it. But even if this is not done, it will NOT stop Windows from booting from your original drive that it always used before the new one was added.
I am going to assume that you intended to continue using the 320 GB original drive in the machine as the boot drive, and you were simply going to add the Maxtor 200 GB unit as a data storage device you will NOT boot from. I expect the 320 unit is connected to a SATA port - probably SATA_0. You also have an optical drive installed, maybe on another SATA port or maybe as the Master on an IDE port. None of that needs to change. Now you have a Maxtor SATA drive being added in, and it will be connected to a third (or second) SATA port on the mobo.
The rest of your installation adjustments are all in BIOS Setup, probably in just two places. First you go into Integrated Peripherals where the SATA ports are configured. Ensure that all the SATA ports you are trying to use are Enabled. On each port (maybe one setting for all?) you have choices of up to 4 modes: IDE (or PATA) Emulation, native SATA, AHCI, or RAID. Check how the setting is for your original HDD, and just make the mode for the Maxtor new unit the same.
Next go to the place where you set the Boot Priority Sequence. My guess is it is set already to try the optical drive first, and the older existing 320 GB drive next. It should NOT try to boot from the new Maxtor 200 GB unit. Now Save and Exit, and your system should simply boot up from the original 320 GB drive. My Computer should show you the Maxtor as a new drive.
If the Maxtor is a brand new empty drive with no Partition established on it and Formatted, it will NOT show up in My Computer. An empty drive needs a couple of preparation steps before Windows can use it. But even if this is not done, it will NOT stop Windows from booting from your original drive that it always used before the new one was added.
There's the rub! I only have two SATA ports on my Mobo. ;_; So I've been unhooking the DVD drive since I never use it and plugging that up to the 2nd SATA HD. Any help there? Or will it not work? Is there a cable I can use to hook up two SATA HDs to one cable?
- Oct 30, 2004
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add a sata card for more ports if you have a slot open
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=sata+card&x=0&y=0
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=sata+card&x=0&y=0
TheDraac
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Where exactly were you doing the slave/master setup??? Via jumpers??? In the BIOS???
As was already stated, the only jumpers on a SATA drive are for 1.5 or 3.0 Gb/sec.
Just trying to understand where you were getting those settings..... SATA drives are pretty much plug and go. Other than in the BIOS, setting what drive to boot from.
As was already stated, the only jumpers on a SATA drive are for 1.5 or 3.0 Gb/sec.
Just trying to understand where you were getting those settings..... SATA drives are pretty much plug and go. Other than in the BIOS, setting what drive to boot from.
shippdriver
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Paperdoc. I am having a similar problem with my HP Media Center M8200n. I had my 500 gb HD crash - no back up! :-(. I have had a new 1 TB HD installed and is working fine on it's own. I am now trying to connect the old HD to try & recover data to my new drive. As there are only two SATA connections, I have disconnected my DVD player and hook up the old HD to it. When I try and start the system (on Vista Home Premium). I get after a long period of time the Blue Screen of Death with the comment Driver IRQL Not Less Or Equal.
When I reboot and go into the setup menu I can see both HD, the new HD is device 3, the old one device 4. When I go to the boot menu, I cannot unselect either drive to boot from but the new HD is the first one. When I hit enter while on the 1st HD option, it attempts to bring up Vista but after a long wait - it goes to the blue screen.
I have not seen any setup options that I should select or unselect the old HD and am rather perplexed.
Any suggestions?
For ShippDriver:
The machine has an ECS mobo, but I can't seem to download a manual from their website to check details. However, what you need normally is in BIOS Setup, often the the Advanced Peripherals section, called something like Boot Priority Sequence. It is not in the Windows boot menu system.
To get into BIOS Setup you usually hold down the "Del" key when you turn on the machine. Before starting this, I suggest you DISconnect the old drive and get it set up with only the new 1 TB unit installed. Then we'll add the other back in. So, disconnect old 500 GB unit, close the case, hold down "Del" and turn on. In Integrated Peripherals check that only one device shows up on a SATA port and check its mode - may be IDE (or PATA) Emulation, or may be native SATA, maybe even AHCI. Whatever that is, remember for use later. Back out of there and go into Advanced Peripherals or wherever the Boot Priority is set. Since you have no optical drive in right now, ensure this is set to boot from the 1 TB drive that is there and nothing else. Save and Exit to boot that way.
Now that you have the machine running, find the website of the manufacturer of your old failed 500 GB HDD. Look there for a free downloadable set of disk testing utilities. For example, Seagate has Seatools, WD has Data Lifegard. If you can, I suggest you download the version that is "for DOS" or something like that. This is a version you burn to a CD or DVD. Then you boot from it and it installs its own mini-DOS so you can run diagnostics without having Windows running.
Shut down, and re-install the optical DVD unit. Reboot and use the diagnostics utility package to burn the software onto a DVD disk. Reboot while holding down the "Del" key and this time go to Boot Priority and set it to boot from the DVD drive first, then the 1 TB unit. Save and Exit with the new utility disk in the DVD drive, and it should boot from that DVD into the mini-DOS, giving you access to all its tests. Now you can try out some tests on the 1 TB unit although you don't have any need to test it. This is just a brief "get familiar with how it is supposed to work".
When that's done, shut down, disconnect the 1 TB unit and connect in its place the 500 GB unit. Close up, hold down "Del" and turn on. Go into Integrated Peripherals and look for that drive on the SATA port. Make its mode is the same as the before. Back out and go to Boot Priority, and check that it shows the old 500 GB unit as the second device to try after the DVD drive. Save and Exit. This should boot cleanly, from the DVD again, and this time you can run all the tests on the old drive to find out what it has trouble with.
IF the disk is judged usable, and if there's a routine to surface-test the entire disk, run that - BUT it will take many hours. This routine will force the disk to check itself and find any questionable sectors. Any that are found will be replaced with a spare good sector the disk has hidden away, and if at all possible it will move data from a questionable sector to its good replacement while the old sector is still readable. This is a different type of job than the Surface Test that ScanDisk does and it will make fixing other problems a bit easier.
So, now you have info on what hardware difficulty the disk has. If it really is unreadable you may have to give up on it or contemplate spending much money on professional data recovery. On the other hand, if it has few or no hardware problems, you may be able to recover data from it simply with a copy operation. Worst case, it may have data corruption that requires using software utilities by yourself to recover Partitions, recover the data in a Partition, or both.
So, assuming you decide to try copying from it, shut down the machine. Disconnect the DVD drive, move the data cable for the old 500 GB to the second SATA port, and reconnect the 1 TB new unit to the first SATA port. Close up and boot into BIOS Setup. Make sure both drives show up as SATA devices in the right mode. Then check Boot Priority and make it use the new 1TB unit ONLY - no other choices in the list. Save and Exit, and it should boot cleanly into Windows from that new disk, unless somehow your system is set up to insist on trying every device it has. This should (I hope!) get you into Windows cleanly where you can examine both disks. You can go about the process of trying to copy all files from old to new unit right away. Or you could try running Scandisk on the old drive to see if it will fix some remaining problems. On the other hand, if it cannot show you the drive or all its files, let us know what you do get. Maybe we can suggest next steps if you tell us what happens all the way through this list of steps, especially what the disk diagnostics tests tell you.
The machine has an ECS mobo, but I can't seem to download a manual from their website to check details. However, what you need normally is in BIOS Setup, often the the Advanced Peripherals section, called something like Boot Priority Sequence. It is not in the Windows boot menu system.
To get into BIOS Setup you usually hold down the "Del" key when you turn on the machine. Before starting this, I suggest you DISconnect the old drive and get it set up with only the new 1 TB unit installed. Then we'll add the other back in. So, disconnect old 500 GB unit, close the case, hold down "Del" and turn on. In Integrated Peripherals check that only one device shows up on a SATA port and check its mode - may be IDE (or PATA) Emulation, or may be native SATA, maybe even AHCI. Whatever that is, remember for use later. Back out of there and go into Advanced Peripherals or wherever the Boot Priority is set. Since you have no optical drive in right now, ensure this is set to boot from the 1 TB drive that is there and nothing else. Save and Exit to boot that way.
Now that you have the machine running, find the website of the manufacturer of your old failed 500 GB HDD. Look there for a free downloadable set of disk testing utilities. For example, Seagate has Seatools, WD has Data Lifegard. If you can, I suggest you download the version that is "for DOS" or something like that. This is a version you burn to a CD or DVD. Then you boot from it and it installs its own mini-DOS so you can run diagnostics without having Windows running.
Shut down, and re-install the optical DVD unit. Reboot and use the diagnostics utility package to burn the software onto a DVD disk. Reboot while holding down the "Del" key and this time go to Boot Priority and set it to boot from the DVD drive first, then the 1 TB unit. Save and Exit with the new utility disk in the DVD drive, and it should boot from that DVD into the mini-DOS, giving you access to all its tests. Now you can try out some tests on the 1 TB unit although you don't have any need to test it. This is just a brief "get familiar with how it is supposed to work".
When that's done, shut down, disconnect the 1 TB unit and connect in its place the 500 GB unit. Close up, hold down "Del" and turn on. Go into Integrated Peripherals and look for that drive on the SATA port. Make its mode is the same as the before. Back out and go to Boot Priority, and check that it shows the old 500 GB unit as the second device to try after the DVD drive. Save and Exit. This should boot cleanly, from the DVD again, and this time you can run all the tests on the old drive to find out what it has trouble with.
IF the disk is judged usable, and if there's a routine to surface-test the entire disk, run that - BUT it will take many hours. This routine will force the disk to check itself and find any questionable sectors. Any that are found will be replaced with a spare good sector the disk has hidden away, and if at all possible it will move data from a questionable sector to its good replacement while the old sector is still readable. This is a different type of job than the Surface Test that ScanDisk does and it will make fixing other problems a bit easier.
So, now you have info on what hardware difficulty the disk has. If it really is unreadable you may have to give up on it or contemplate spending much money on professional data recovery. On the other hand, if it has few or no hardware problems, you may be able to recover data from it simply with a copy operation. Worst case, it may have data corruption that requires using software utilities by yourself to recover Partitions, recover the data in a Partition, or both.
So, assuming you decide to try copying from it, shut down the machine. Disconnect the DVD drive, move the data cable for the old 500 GB to the second SATA port, and reconnect the 1 TB new unit to the first SATA port. Close up and boot into BIOS Setup. Make sure both drives show up as SATA devices in the right mode. Then check Boot Priority and make it use the new 1TB unit ONLY - no other choices in the list. Save and Exit, and it should boot cleanly into Windows from that new disk, unless somehow your system is set up to insist on trying every device it has. This should (I hope!) get you into Windows cleanly where you can examine both disks. You can go about the process of trying to copy all files from old to new unit right away. Or you could try running Scandisk on the old drive to see if it will fix some remaining problems. On the other hand, if it cannot show you the drive or all its files, let us know what you do get. Maybe we can suggest next steps if you tell us what happens all the way through this list of steps, especially what the disk diagnostics tests tell you.
For OP: The Draac recommends using only the PCIe slot for installing an extra SATA port card because of speed limits. Good advice, but don't think that is absolutely necessary if it causes you a problem. In many cases the actual long-term average data transfer rate of a fast SATA II drive is no faster than the old original SATA devices limited to that 1.5 Gb/s rate. So the limit may not really be much of a problem if you can actually get this all to work.
shippdriver
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Well, unfortunately I have no good news to report. Thank you however, Paperdoc for your in depth response! As an FYI, to get to the boot menu, I hit ESC, for the BIOS I hit F10. Both old and new HD are WD. The old drive is a WD Caviar SE16 500gb and the new HD is a WD Caviar Green.
I d/l the DOS based software, burned it and ran it with the new HD. Did the quick test, all was ok. Disconnected the new HD, hooked up the old, ran the software and immediately got an error saying no HD (yet in the boot setup) it was recognized!!). Got the A prompt. As I was around for the DOS days I did a dir search and saw some programs to run. So I typed autoexec and the program ran properly - it recognized the drive and so I thought all was good. I chose the quick test and waited, and waited. After several minutes the error 120 came up. I checked the Txt file and it indicated that error 120 means "no drive found". I scratched my head, rebooted, go through the process with a similar result. The
next time rather than rebooting, I tried the autoexec again, now I get error 201 "NON-WD DRIVE". Well I know that is BS, so I reboot again. Try again (each time I reboot I get the same initial error that there is no HD) this time i get error 104 "DRIVE NOT READY". I have tried several different attempts to get the WD software to read the old HD to no avail.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I do have data I want to retrieve so I will not be giving up but really do not want to spend large $$ yet to have it professionally retrieved!
I d/l the DOS based software, burned it and ran it with the new HD. Did the quick test, all was ok. Disconnected the new HD, hooked up the old, ran the software and immediately got an error saying no HD (yet in the boot setup) it was recognized!!). Got the A prompt. As I was around for the DOS days I did a dir search and saw some programs to run. So I typed autoexec and the program ran properly - it recognized the drive and so I thought all was good. I chose the quick test and waited, and waited. After several minutes the error 120 came up. I checked the Txt file and it indicated that error 120 means "no drive found". I scratched my head, rebooted, go through the process with a similar result. The
next time rather than rebooting, I tried the autoexec again, now I get error 201 "NON-WD DRIVE". Well I know that is BS, so I reboot again. Try again (each time I reboot I get the same initial error that there is no HD) this time i get error 104 "DRIVE NOT READY". I have tried several different attempts to get the WD software to read the old HD to no avail.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I do have data I want to retrieve so I will not be giving up but really do not want to spend large $$ yet to have it professionally retrieved!
Sad story to read, but I don't hold much hope for your drive or data. From the diagnostic test results you report, it does appear that your drive really has a hardware issue, not merely bad data in a critical system file.
Some people have been lucky and found that they were able to recover from hardware failures by replacing the controller board that is part of the HDD unit itself. However, this ONLY works if the problem really is in that board, obviously. And it ain't easy, because HDD makers constantly update and change the boards on their drives without changing the basic model number, so you really have to get an EXACT match with the same board model and release numbers, etc. Even then the technique may not work for good technical reasons I don't understand fully.The other trick you will read about is freezing the drive. This has worked for some in situations where the heads are stuck in one spot because of mechanical contact with something, and a substantial temperature change causes some internal dimensions to change enough to free the head arm. Basically, you seal the drive in a plastic bag to exclude moisture and frost, stick it in a deep freeze for a day, take it out, hook it up quickly and fire it up in hopes that it will be readable before it gets warmer. If you're lucky you can read some of its contents and copy that as quickly as possible, because once it quits reading again, you may never be able to repeat this process. And from what I see, it works only infrequently, but it's a free process so the price is right.
Unfortunately, the only really reliable way to recover the data is a sophisticated pro shop that costs big bucks. I've read descriptions of their equipment and processes, and I can see why they are expensive but usually successful. However, even they can't recover data from a gouge in the disk surface caused by a head crash.
Some people have been lucky and found that they were able to recover from hardware failures by replacing the controller board that is part of the HDD unit itself. However, this ONLY works if the problem really is in that board, obviously. And it ain't easy, because HDD makers constantly update and change the boards on their drives without changing the basic model number, so you really have to get an EXACT match with the same board model and release numbers, etc. Even then the technique may not work for good technical reasons I don't understand fully.The other trick you will read about is freezing the drive. This has worked for some in situations where the heads are stuck in one spot because of mechanical contact with something, and a substantial temperature change causes some internal dimensions to change enough to free the head arm. Basically, you seal the drive in a plastic bag to exclude moisture and frost, stick it in a deep freeze for a day, take it out, hook it up quickly and fire it up in hopes that it will be readable before it gets warmer. If you're lucky you can read some of its contents and copy that as quickly as possible, because once it quits reading again, you may never be able to repeat this process. And from what I see, it works only infrequently, but it's a free process so the price is right.
Unfortunately, the only really reliable way to recover the data is a sophisticated pro shop that costs big bucks. I've read descriptions of their equipment and processes, and I can see why they are expensive but usually successful. However, even they can't recover data from a gouge in the disk surface caused by a head crash.
TheDraac
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Try EASEUS Data Recovery Wizard Professional. You can DL a demo copy that will give you a idea if anything can be recovered.
I've had good results with this program.
Go here:
http://www.easeus.com/datarecoverywizardpro/download.htm
I've had good results with this program.
Go here:
http://www.easeus.com/datarecoverywizardpro/download.htm
Hey all, me again. I bought a PCI addon card. The Masscool XWT-RC018 card, has an IDE and 2 SATA ports on it. I installed the driver for the card and all and it started doing the same thing as it did before. I took all the jumps off the SATA HD, but it won't boot to windows. I went into BIOs and couldn't see it anywhere. It'll boot up if I unplug it. I'm at a complete loss here. >_< What do I do to get my computer to boot and read this 2nd harddrive?
TheDraac
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Any drives attached to the add on controller card WON'T show in the MB BIOS. Shortly after boot up and any display by the MB, such as memory and attached drives to any MB connectors, there will be a display by the add on card's BIOS showing any attached drives there.
Now the drive your trying to attach is Maxtor Diamondmax Plus 9 200gb.... correct?? It should be model # 6Y200MO.... right???
If that's right, it's a SATA/150 drive. I can't verify what type of jumpers are on your drive. What I found from the now Seagate web-site showed two probabilities.
A 3 pin jumper block to the right of the data/power connectors. Shows a (single pin??) jumper on the far right pin with a note to "not use the jumper pins".
and a 4 pin jumper block. The right 2 pins are "NC" not connected to anything. and the left 2 pin are to "force 150 transfer speeds". It's seems like this should only be on a drive that is SATAII/300 speed.
You should be able to just attach it to the new controller and have the computer recognize it.
So are you saying:
You reconnected your org drive to the MB SATA connector
and the Maxtor drive to the add on card
and it won't boot???
But it will boot when you disconnect the Maxtor from the add on card???
Check in BIOS and see if there is a item marked something like "Boot from other device" or "Boot from add in card"
If it's set to enabled, try disabled.
Now the drive your trying to attach is Maxtor Diamondmax Plus 9 200gb.... correct?? It should be model # 6Y200MO.... right???
If that's right, it's a SATA/150 drive. I can't verify what type of jumpers are on your drive. What I found from the now Seagate web-site showed two probabilities.
A 3 pin jumper block to the right of the data/power connectors. Shows a (single pin??) jumper on the far right pin with a note to "not use the jumper pins".
and a 4 pin jumper block. The right 2 pins are "NC" not connected to anything. and the left 2 pin are to "force 150 transfer speeds". It's seems like this should only be on a drive that is SATAII/300 speed.
You should be able to just attach it to the new controller and have the computer recognize it.
So are you saying:
You reconnected your org drive to the MB SATA connector
and the Maxtor drive to the add on card
and it won't boot???
But it will boot when you disconnect the Maxtor from the add on card???
Check in BIOS and see if there is a item marked something like "Boot from other device" or "Boot from add in card"
If it's set to enabled, try disabled.
I found the manual for your drive, a Maxtor model 6Y200M0 (the M0 at the end specifies SATA - the model ending in P0 is ATA), here:
http://www.seagate.com/staticfiles/maxtor/en_us/documentation/manuals/diamondmax_plus_9_manual.pdf
Just to be sure, the back edge of your drive should look like the drawings on pages 3-12 and 3-13, and NOT like page 3-10. What is still bothering me is your repeated statements that you have tried out all the possible positions for jumpers and ended up removing them all. On the SATA interface drive THERE ARE NO JUMPERS OR PLACES FOR THEM! So how could you do that? f your drive really does look like page 3-10 with jumpers on the 9 pins in the middle block, then you have an ATA drive, NOT SATA.
So, before we try to offer more advice, please confirm exactly which drive you have. Give us the exact complete model number from the drive's label. Also confirm, please, that the original 320 GB drive IS a SATA drive with a small 7-wire ribbon cable for data from the mobo port, and not a wide data ribbon ending in a 40-pin connector. I would help a lot, also, to tell us what device(s) already are connected to the IDE port on the mobo by a wide 40-pin data cable, and how many connectors there are on that cable - 2 (one at each end), or 3 (one in middle also).
http://www.seagate.com/staticfiles/maxtor/en_us/documentation/manuals/diamondmax_plus_9_manual.pdf
Just to be sure, the back edge of your drive should look like the drawings on pages 3-12 and 3-13, and NOT like page 3-10. What is still bothering me is your repeated statements that you have tried out all the possible positions for jumpers and ended up removing them all. On the SATA interface drive THERE ARE NO JUMPERS OR PLACES FOR THEM! So how could you do that? f your drive really does look like page 3-10 with jumpers on the 9 pins in the middle block, then you have an ATA drive, NOT SATA.
So, before we try to offer more advice, please confirm exactly which drive you have. Give us the exact complete model number from the drive's label. Also confirm, please, that the original 320 GB drive IS a SATA drive with a small 7-wire ribbon cable for data from the mobo port, and not a wide data ribbon ending in a 40-pin connector. I would help a lot, also, to tell us what device(s) already are connected to the IDE port on the mobo by a wide 40-pin data cable, and how many connectors there are on that cable - 2 (one at each end), or 3 (one in middle also).
Yes, the model number on my Maxtor Diamondmax Plus 9 is 6Y200M0 and it has a couple more numbers after it but that does match up. My HD looks exactly like the one in Figure 3-7. See how it has the jumpers? I have all mine off except for that single one in the top right corner, but since that's by itself I don't think it would effect anything. Bios will detect it but that main problem I'm having is just booting up windows. It won't load when that HD is installed. It's pretty old, had it since what... 2004? 2005? I'm pretty sure it's been formated to NTSF and not FAT32, but it's been so long I dunno. But one thing I did see is when I let it sit for a long time I'll see a flash of a blue screen then the computer will reset and keep doing it over and over. Not sure what to do really. And yes, the HD already installed is a SATA. I have the system specs here for my Compaq. http://reviews.cnet.com/desktops/compaq-presario-sr5710f-athlon/4507-3118_7-33463986.html There is nothing connected to any of the IDE ports on the mobo. Only thing I've done is add a PCI express video card, take out the modem and replace it with that addon card, replace the power supply with a 550w one, and add that HD that causes it not to boot. I took some pics with my cell phone but dunno how much help that will be but what the heck, here ya go. http://img101.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=nonamec.jpg Thanks again for all the help! I know it's something really simple I'm overlooking.
TheDraac
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I forgot that the early SATA drives had both power connectors on them. Looks like the normal jumper block also remained on that drive.
The manual does say that there are "no user changeable configuration jumpers". So although the jumpers might not actually do anything, I would make sure they are off as they should be anyway.
As for the no boot and BSOD.... I suspect it might be trying to boot off the Maxtor drive instead of the original drive.
Again, I would check the boot order and make sure it's set to the on-board SATA connected drive first.
Another thing you could try is.... if there is nothing you want on the Maxtor drive, connect only it to the on board SATA connector. Try loading windows on it... just so you can get it to be formatted. Then abort the install just after formatting.
Then reconnect the original drive to the on-board and the Maxtor to the add on card.
That way if the computer still tries to boot from the Maxtor drive it will look elsewhere as the drive won't have any OS on it.
The manual does say that there are "no user changeable configuration jumpers". So although the jumpers might not actually do anything, I would make sure they are off as they should be anyway.
As for the no boot and BSOD.... I suspect it might be trying to boot off the Maxtor drive instead of the original drive.
Again, I would check the boot order and make sure it's set to the on-board SATA connected drive first.
Another thing you could try is.... if there is nothing you want on the Maxtor drive, connect only it to the on board SATA connector. Try loading windows on it... just so you can get it to be formatted. Then abort the install just after formatting.
Then reconnect the original drive to the on-board and the Maxtor to the add on card.
That way if the computer still tries to boot from the Maxtor drive it will look elsewhere as the drive won't have any OS on it.
I booted from the maxtor drive and it says the no os or disk thingie error message so I know it's not trying to boot from there. It's booting from the main hd but windows won't finish loading, somethign about the 2nd hd is causing it to not load properly. Mayhap I need a drive or something for the hd? What if I install that first then try installing the hd?
TheDracc said' "I forgot that the early SATA drives had both power connectors on them. Looks like the normal jumper block also remained on that drive.
The manual does say that there are "no user changeable configuration jumpers". So although the jumpers might not actually do anything, I would make sure they are off as they should be anyway. "
Dead right! The manual does not SAY the jumpers are useless on the SATA version of the drive - in fact, the manual shows that version with no jumpers in place - but I agree just leave them all off.
I note that your Compaq's specs you provided say it has a SATA II controller system, so this cannot be the uncommon problem of an original SATA controller with a newer SATA II drive.
I echo TheDraccs' suggestion that you go into BIOS Setup and check SATA port settings - check three things.
1. Ensure that both SATA ports you are trying to use are Enabled.
2. Check the mode set for the original SATA 320 GB drive - IDE (or PATA) emulation, native SATA, AHCI or RAID are possible choices, likely set to IDE (PATA) Emulation. Ensure the second port (the one you're connecting the 200 GB unit to) is set to the same mode. That way you'll know that Windows will have the required drivers for both drives (both SATA devices operating in the same port mode) available.
3. Find where Boot Priority Sequence is set. Set it to optical drive as first device, original 320 GB SATA drive as second choice, and NO other options to try.
Try booting into Windows Safe Mode. To do that, as soon as you see the BIOS POST sequence nearly complete and ready to load up Windows, hold down the F8 key to force Windows to offer you a menu of boot options. Choose Safe Mode with support for optical drives. See if that will load - it uses minimal drivers. If you can get that far, try going into Disk Management and looking closely at the LOWER RIGHT pane there. The pane scrolls to allow you to see all hardware devices. It should show you both the SATA drives as separate blocks, along with your optical drive. Each hard disk block will have a small block on its left end with a names like "Disk_0", a size, and a few other details. To its right will be one or more blocks representing the Partitions already created on the drive. Your original 320 GB unit probably will have only one Partition block that uses all the drive's space and has a proper disk letter name, C:, and some other details like its size, its File System (NTFS, I expect) and a status. Now, what does the part for the 200 GB new unit look like? Does it have any blocks defining a Partition? I really doubt it would have a letter name assigned to it. If there is such a block, does it tell you the file system? Does it have any block labeled "Unallocated Space"?
IF you got this far AND IF you want NOT to save anything on the 200 GB unit, I suggest you RIGHT-click on any Partition that exists on it and Delete the Partition, so that you end up with none and it is all Unallocated Space. Then you can RIGHT-Click on the Unallocated Space and choose to Create a Primary Partition. Do not make it bootable - you don't want to boot from it. Make that Partition use up all of the space available. If you find yourself in a wizard that is asking for details of the File System to install during the Format operation, choose NTFS. Considering the trouble you've had so far with what appears to be a used HDD unit, I suggest you choose to do a Full Format. This will do the basic Format operation and then exhaustively test every part of the disk for bad sectors, which will take MANY HOURS! But if you can get through that, your disk will be ready for Windows to use after you reboot. By the way, if there is no Wizard running as you choose Partition parameters, you just let the Partition operation run. When it is done (relatively quick), you RIGHT-Click again on the Partition just created and choose to Format it as a separate operation, then make the choices above.
I assumed a lot here - like, that you will successfully get into Windows with a SAFE Mode option, then be able to use normal tools to examine and set up the 200 GB unit. That may not happen. Let us know what does happen, though.
The manual does say that there are "no user changeable configuration jumpers". So although the jumpers might not actually do anything, I would make sure they are off as they should be anyway. "
Dead right! The manual does not SAY the jumpers are useless on the SATA version of the drive - in fact, the manual shows that version with no jumpers in place - but I agree just leave them all off.
I note that your Compaq's specs you provided say it has a SATA II controller system, so this cannot be the uncommon problem of an original SATA controller with a newer SATA II drive.
I echo TheDraccs' suggestion that you go into BIOS Setup and check SATA port settings - check three things.
1. Ensure that both SATA ports you are trying to use are Enabled.
2. Check the mode set for the original SATA 320 GB drive - IDE (or PATA) emulation, native SATA, AHCI or RAID are possible choices, likely set to IDE (PATA) Emulation. Ensure the second port (the one you're connecting the 200 GB unit to) is set to the same mode. That way you'll know that Windows will have the required drivers for both drives (both SATA devices operating in the same port mode) available.
3. Find where Boot Priority Sequence is set. Set it to optical drive as first device, original 320 GB SATA drive as second choice, and NO other options to try.
Try booting into Windows Safe Mode. To do that, as soon as you see the BIOS POST sequence nearly complete and ready to load up Windows, hold down the F8 key to force Windows to offer you a menu of boot options. Choose Safe Mode with support for optical drives. See if that will load - it uses minimal drivers. If you can get that far, try going into Disk Management and looking closely at the LOWER RIGHT pane there. The pane scrolls to allow you to see all hardware devices. It should show you both the SATA drives as separate blocks, along with your optical drive. Each hard disk block will have a small block on its left end with a names like "Disk_0", a size, and a few other details. To its right will be one or more blocks representing the Partitions already created on the drive. Your original 320 GB unit probably will have only one Partition block that uses all the drive's space and has a proper disk letter name, C:, and some other details like its size, its File System (NTFS, I expect) and a status. Now, what does the part for the 200 GB new unit look like? Does it have any blocks defining a Partition? I really doubt it would have a letter name assigned to it. If there is such a block, does it tell you the file system? Does it have any block labeled "Unallocated Space"?
IF you got this far AND IF you want NOT to save anything on the 200 GB unit, I suggest you RIGHT-click on any Partition that exists on it and Delete the Partition, so that you end up with none and it is all Unallocated Space. Then you can RIGHT-Click on the Unallocated Space and choose to Create a Primary Partition. Do not make it bootable - you don't want to boot from it. Make that Partition use up all of the space available. If you find yourself in a wizard that is asking for details of the File System to install during the Format operation, choose NTFS. Considering the trouble you've had so far with what appears to be a used HDD unit, I suggest you choose to do a Full Format. This will do the basic Format operation and then exhaustively test every part of the disk for bad sectors, which will take MANY HOURS! But if you can get through that, your disk will be ready for Windows to use after you reboot. By the way, if there is no Wizard running as you choose Partition parameters, you just let the Partition operation run. When it is done (relatively quick), you RIGHT-Click again on the Partition just created and choose to Format it as a separate operation, then make the choices above.
I assumed a lot here - like, that you will successfully get into Windows with a SAFE Mode option, then be able to use normal tools to examine and set up the 200 GB unit. That may not happen. Let us know what does happen, though.
Well, I want to thank everyone for their time and help but I think this thread is offically DOA. It won't even boot into safe mode. So I'm just going to buy an external HD on black friday and put the HD in my old computer and copy everything off it and then just sell it to someone or just chuck it into the trash. Wasted a lot of time and money to no avail! ;_; Thanks again for trying to help but I give up.
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