Question HELP! Custom Water Cooling Setup!

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JaSoN_cRuZe

JaSoN_cRuZe

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Mar 5, 2017
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I wish to buy a custom water cooling setup for my upcoming Ryzen build!

I have an Antec P8 case and wish to buy the following items from Aliexpress for my setup, I intend to do only for CPU for now and wish to upgrade to a GPU block down the road.

360 Copper RAD!!

Pump+Reservoir!! -Suggest reservoir size(140 or 190 or 240)??

CPU Block!!

Please suggest me some good fittings and tubing for the above items, This is my first time going for a custom loop.

Please use this link for suggesting compatible fittings and also any other alternatives for the above mentioned items are welcome.

I'm living in India so the shipping is usually very high, so i had selected the above because of the price and free shipping.

Any suggestion or recommendation is highly welcome. Thanks
 
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Personal insult are NOT tolerated
@rubix_1011
Tell me, can you even comprehend bro?
Have you ever built a custom cooling rig?
do you even know what "reliable" means or if english your native language or not ?
Or your eyesight ok bro ? as i can clearly see which word is bold ( can post a pic and highlight the same so if you have some problem seeing it )

because clearly even your very first reply to my comment looks more like someone buthurt will do.
I live in same country as OP do, i clearly have experienced custom cooling situation in this country. I replied to him (not you ) based on my experience and suggested him better logical option.
If money wasn't a bar he wouldn't be using aliexpress buying cheap parts

First of all, all your points to my original reply were plainly stupid, and answered to them were obvious, i replied thinking that you misunderstood, but your second reply clearly shows lack of comprehension or lack of knowledge/experience about the topic or trolling/stupidity.
You sure aren't worthy of being a mod.
 
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truegenius said:
@rubix_1011
Tell me, can you even comprehend bro?
Have you ever built a custom cooling rig?
do you even know what "reliable" means or if english your native language or not ?
Or your eyesight ok bro ? as i can clearly see which word is bold ( can post a pic and highlight the same so if you have some problem seeing it )

because clearly even your very first reply to my comment looks more like someone buthurt will do.
I live in same country as OP do, i clearly have experienced custom cooling situation in this country. I replied to him (not you ) based on my experience and suggested him better logical option.
If money wasn't a bar he wouldn't be using aliexpress buying cheap parts

First of all, all your points to my original reply were plainly stupid, and answered to them were obvious, i replied thinking that you misunderstood, but your second reply clearly shows lack of comprehension or lack of knowledge/experience about the topic or trolling/stupidity.
You sure aren't worthy of being a mod.
Click to expand...

Yep, I've watercooled for nearly 18 years.

BRO.

I most certainly know what reliable means. I completely understand the meaning, use, synonyms, antonyms and normal grammatical use.

It appears that you seem to be the one who has an ego problem with the conversation as you continually seem to be bent on proving something that seems rather pedantic.

I live in the same country as many other people as well, so you and I both have this in common. In the US, we have a very wide range of climates, from relatively hot and tropical, to hot and dry, to arctic and wet and cold and dry. I also understand how watercooling impacts PC cooling in these climates, not just 'hot', which is really just a measurement of temperature, only.

I also appreciate your defense of the thread owner using a specific website for purchases, but you fail to include any detail that makes it seem like the entire world should know the economic status of the person who opened the thread. Interesting that you happen to be privy to this detail, but it is not made clear to everyone else.

I also appreciate your view that you think my responses are stupid, but I will also ask you to provide me the list of information you've provided for the online community around cooling solutions for PCs. I just want to check up on your knowledge and published information.

For instance, I, myself, have written and curated the watercooling sticky for Tom's Hardware for nearly a decade. I also do the majority of air and liquid cooling reviews for the Tom's Hardware primary website. Feel free to Google for that information or do a bit of simple searching.

For example, this is the Threadripper build and write up that I did about a year ago.
https://www.tomshardware.com/uk/reviews/amd-threadripper-2990wx-water-cooling-pc-build,5934.html

Or this Corsair Hydro X review:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-hydro-x-series-watercooling-kit,6290.html

Or this Alphacool review:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/alphacool-eissturm-hurricane-copper-45,5843.html

Or this EK review:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ekwb-ek-kit-rgb-420-cpu-cooler,5840.html

Or this Swiftech waterblock review:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/swiftech-skf-tr4-heirloom-cpu-waterblock,5550.html

Or this EK block review:
https://www.tomshardware.com/uk/reviews/ek-fb-msi-x399-rgb-monoblock,5564.html

Or this EK kit review:
https://www.tomshardware.com/uk/reviews/ek-fluid-gaming-a120-kit-cpu-cooler,5544.html

Or this water pump review:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/enermax-neochanger-rgb-pump-and-reservoir,5480.html

I can also post about 60 air or AIO cooling reviews, if you are interested.

I would post a link to the Tom's Hardware watercooling sticky, but the indexed links are a bit haywire right now, the dev team is working on those.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky

I am really curious around one piece as I don't understand what your definition of 'being worthy to be a mod' includes.

Can you please provide that detail?
 
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@truegenius ,
According to the Rules of Conduct, please attack the post and not the poster. If you should know, the watercooling sticky has been founded by and compiled by the very person you're attacking. You also don't want to question the people who have appointed us as moderators to this site.

@JaSoN_cRuZe,
You're just a few miles away from where I'm located and I could source parts for my watercooling build. Like it's said in the watercooling sticky, the project will be hefty on your wallet. You should stop thinking about the costs of the project and any other form of reverse engineering and just pick up a kit, since you're looking at a CPU only loop. Kits will allow you to add more components. That is, ofc, provided that you're sincerely moving forward with the watercooling project as this will need your attention since the day you set up and prime the loop.

You also seem to have missed the point about the kits, parts and fittings in the sticky. Read that and 99% of your questions will be answered. This is one of those projects where patience is key and any mistakes will be very costly.

Edit:
You might want to start looking for distilled water in your country and then source a bottle of PT Nuke and be done with the coolant topic. Buying coolants don't offer much more gains, except for added shipping weight for a kilogram of liquid. If that were the case, spend that shipping cost on watercooling gear or the kit.
 
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Thanks you for all your help.

logainofhades said:
Why not just get an EKWB kit?
Click to expand...
They are pretty heavy on my wallet. I was able to get the following gear for ~250$ @ Aliexpress including shipping.

CPU&GPU copper blocks, 480(360+120) Copper Radiator, All necessary fittings with drain valve and
a DDC Pump with reservoir and reservoir mounting hardware.

If you are in the US many products have free shipping for you guys lucky 🙄 but you guys have so many options anyways.

Lutfij said:
You might want to start looking for distilled water in your country and then source a bottle of PT Nuke and be done with the coolant topic. Buying coolants don't offer much more gains, except for added shipping weight for a kilogram of liquid. If that were the case, spend that shipping cost on water cooling gear or the kit.
Click to expand...

Yes, i have a reliable source of distilled water from the guy who refills my battery i already have 3 liters lying around, No PT Nuke concentrate i can go with powdered Copper sulphate and mix with distilled water before refilling. Since copper sulphate easily mixes with water.

The issue is from what i read online, PT Nuke doesn't bode well with other metals especially with Nickel.

JaSoN_cRuZe said:
Radiator - Brass & Copper.
CPU Block - Copper plated with Nickel.
GPU Block - Copper plated with Nickel.
Fittings - Brass plated with Nickel.
Coolant - Distilled water with Biocide.
Click to expand...

The material composition of my purchase is as above. As @rubix_1011 pointed out silver does not work well so i'm at a loss here.

Lutfij said:
since you're looking at a CPU only loop.
Click to expand...

I'm going to cool both my CPU and GPU.

logainofhades said:
Pardon me if I have missed it, but which Ryzen are you looking to watercool here?
Click to expand...

3700x for now 3950X down the road.

Can i use food grade silicone tubes instead of soft PVC? Like this. To get rid of plasticizers?
They are not cheap compared to soft PVC's and less transparent but will it get the job done for my fittings of 10x16mm?

UPDATE: Found this nice silicone tube which will perfectly fit 10x16mm fittings. Just the freight is the total price of the product.🙁
 
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I would just stick with PVC, your plasticizer fear isn't that much of an issue in real life. Don't read into it more than you already have.

The silver kill coil isn't going to really benefit you and if you are going to use copper sulphate, then there isn't a reason to...and it would do the job anyway. Save yourself some money and just skip the silver coil if you are going to get distilled water and PT Nuke or copper sulphate.

Just a word of advice:

Watercooling (especially custom) is expensive. There isn't really a reason you would want to cut corners or go cheaply. You will end up disappointed by spending less money too soon and not get equipment to meet your expectations or you end up with poor quality parts that are not tested and manufactured well. Do yourself a favor and save money, research and buy only when you truly have the money to do so. It is far more rewarding of a hobby when this happens.
 
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Karadjgne said:
Saw a build not long ago that used black silicone tubing with nickle fittings, which I thought to be quite subtle. It's also uv resistant and being non-transparent would further restrict fungi. Or so I would think.
Click to expand...

Silcone vs Vinyl hose comparison.

Silicone
-Extremely durable - Resistant to UV
-Free from Plasticizers
- Costly 1.16 dollars fora foot of tubing.
-Milky texture Not transparent
-Not suitable for colored fluids or UV light coolant.
-Not very attractive

Vinyl(PVC)
-Not so durable -Less resistant to UV
-Plasticizers used
-Can be had for 20 to 30 cents for a foot of tubing.
-Very Transparent
-Very attractive
-Can be with all coolants without sacrificing aesthetics.

Will try to reduce the freight cost since i'm anyway using distilled water with copper sulphate anyways.

Thanks for the help everyone, much appreciated.
 
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Thank you @rubix_1011 and others for all your help.

I have bought the following products which has amounted to 260 dollars approximately,
  1. Barrow Copper CPU Block.
  2. Bykski Copper GPU Block.
  3. Barrow 17W DDC Pump.
  4. Reservoir 190mm.
  5. Compression Fittings(10 ID*16 ODmm).
  6. 480mm Copper Radiator (120 +360 mm).
  7. 4-Way, Plugs and extensions with Drain Valve.
  8. 7 ft's of Silicone Tubing(10 ID*16 ODmm).
  9. Pump Mounting Bracket.
  10. 500ml Drip bottle.
Hope the products come safe and sound. Wish me luck.
 
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JaSoN_cRuZe said:
Thank you @rubix_1011 and others for all your help.

I have bought the following products which has amounted to 260 dollars approximately,
  1. Barrow Copper CPU Block.
  2. Bykski Copper GPU Block.
  3. Barrow 17W DDC Pump.
  4. Reservoir 190mm.
  5. Compression Fittings(10 ID*16 ODmm).
  6. 480mm Copper Radiator (120 +360 mm).
  7. 4-Way, Plugs and extensions with Drain Valve.
  8. 7 ft's of Silicone Tubing(10 ID*16 ODmm).
  9. Pump Mounting Bracket.
  10. 500ml Drip bottle.
Hope the products come safe and sound. Wish me luck.
Click to expand...

Hello guys, finally i have received 95% of my products only the GPU water block is pending. Will receive it tomorrow or the day after as seen by its status.

First things first what must be done? To the above list, i have Copper sulfate and distilled vinegar for cleaning and maintenance.

Thanks for your assistance.
 
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Organize the loop. Make sure you have all the fittings, and that they'll make a seal. Clean everything, especially the rad. Last thing you need is misplaced sediment or metal leftovers or slag rolling through your loop and ending up in the pump. Dry-fit brackets /res/pump, check for clearances and angles and direction of fittings.

Almost all loop errors happen due to lack of sufficient prep work and planning, and that includes tools used in cutting/reaming pipe.
 
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You will only want the vinegar for cleaning and only in solution also with water. Be sure to thoroughly rinse.

For distilled water and the copper sulfate, you'll fill your loop with water and add the recommended amount of drops, by volume, of the copper sulfate.

Good advice by Karadjgne on the test setup and dry fitment of parts. Measure several times, cut tubing once. You can always trim shorter, but it is impossible to trim longer.

Make absolutely sure that your fittings are seated well - finger tight with a good torque twist - but don't over-tighten with pliers or other tools. The O-ring can be damaged if you install too tightly...threads can also be damaged if you really go too far.

Clean, clean, CLEAN that radiator. There is often so much residual oil and debris inside from manufacturing and you definitely do not want that gunk in your loop.
 
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Finally done with my build, need a spare psu to test for leaks. Any fittings should i get to reduce the tension and make the loop more smoother.

I tried my best as this silicone tubing is hard to bend. I made my setup with no kinks, also added a drain port at the bottom.

Please share your thoughts.
Build
 
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I would offer a slight alternative of using very hot or boiled water, but then only briefly dipping the tubing for up to a minute and then bending...probably not necessary to boil it submerged over a period of time, but maybe it's something that works better than I realize?????
 
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Well yes, you'd be ok if submerging the pipe, using a seive etc, but not to let it sit on the bottom of the pan. Hot water is one thing, overly hot pan is another. You'll want to heat the pipe only enough to make it more pliable to the angles you want, not melt it 😁
 
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Thanks you guys for all your inputs.

My build is done successfully without any beginner problems except for the one time i started the machine without plugging the fans and after some time BSOD.

Everything else is working great GPU temps stay below 45C(room temp 30C), Overclocked 1070Ti to +200 on core and +550 on memory. I have a very bad chip so much thermal headroom but does not go further 🙁.

The only thing bugging me is that the amount of copper sulfate added to the distilled water. Should the water be dark blue or very light blue after adding.

I bled the system with distilled water then tried to remove water but did not want to mess my setup by tilting, so took as much of distilled water just by some small tilts here and there. Made a Copper sulfate solution where the water was light blue then added to the reservoir up to full. The color of the water in the reservoir has not changed to light blue because of low concentration. Is this OK. Should i need to bleed the system with the light blue solution again?

PS. Still need to add some fans at top for optimal positive- negative pressure. Will post pics once everything is done and RGB is all set.
 
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