High-End personal Workstation Guidance

Page 11 - Seeking answers? Join the Tom's Hardware community: where nearly two million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Toggle sidebar Toggle sidebar


Here is what I would recommend. On the 932 there are numerous holes in the bottom of the case that are for mounting extra fans. 4 of these holes are lined up perfectly for mounting a "u" shaped bracket under the case. So go to the hardware store and get a length of 1-1/4 inch wide steel flat stock that is thin enough to bend easily. Then use a bench vise to bend it into a sort of long "u" shape, 5 inches total length end-to-end. When you look at the bottom of the case, you'll see what needs to be done, it's obvious. Hold the piece under the case and mark the 4 holes, two on each end of the "u", drill for either #12 or 1/4" machine screws and nuts. Run the screws up from underneath, and double-nut them from the inside (or use single "nylock" nuts if you want it to look trick). This will keep somebody from unscrewing the bracket from outside.

Obviously it's impossible to completely theft proof it unless you prevent the side cover from being removed. Google "anti theft screws" and you'll see all kinds of funny screw heads designed for the purpose. Local hardware stores carry them. Use those in place of, or in addition to, the 4 thumbscrews that hold the two side covers on, and you're done!

If you need to drill any holes in the case - MAKE SURE YOU DO IT FIRST THING- so you can blow or vacuum out the chips.

Then any cheap bicycle cable-lock will keep all but the most determined thief from making off with it.
 
`
There once was a thread full of tricks ...
... and, espresso, and links to old flicks ...
And though we all bowed our head ...
... and declared the thing dead ...
We have managed to get to PAGE SIX !!!
.
 
`
The best theft-proofing is to register ALL of your equipment and serial numbers.

I worked at DELL ... Some customers were savvy enough to report their thefts to our database.

Then, the theives, or the person they sold the stolen parts to, eventually (in some cases) call in to tech support with questions or for parts or upgrades, etc ...

When we "search up" that part, there is a big "all caps" banner in our comment field that says ... "THIS IS A STOLEN SYSTEM ... COLLECT CONTACT INFO FROM CALLER!"

I can think of 3 different times that my team fully busted the theives.

The other thing is not to brag about your system's speed or guts (difficult, I know).

You can also use fingernail polish, paint markers, etc., to personalize individual parts.

You can put a small bead of fingernail polish on the edges of the case screws ...
(As a tamper-seal ... just to indicate any tampering ... You will see if the bead is disturbed).

Lock the space that it is in and do not display the system unit, prominently.

Constantly complain, to everyone, how your SSD is a flakey brick ... How your gpu just won't run stable, and how your CPU just is not cutting the mustard !

You can also modify a battery operated door alarm and place it inside the case.

There are also security dyes that are used on fire-alarms and extinguishers.

And ... my personal favorite ... booby-traps.






 
Don't put any case badges on and on the front of your case cover of the cooler master logo with rosewill or something, actually that would be so embarassing no one would ever talk to you again but at least your computer wouldn't be stolen
 


Funny you should mention that. I forgot to tell Alvin what I did. I couldn't leave well enough alone.

I thought that big COOLER MASTER sticker on the front was too hideous to leave there. In the box with the Noctua cooler was a very nice thick metal badge that looked ok I thought. The problem was it wouldn't fit inside the raised edges where the cooler master sticker went. I could've just use a hand-file, but I had to get carried away.

I decided the best way to fix it was to mill the ridges off on the vertical milling machine. But the whole thing was about 1/4" too wide to fit in the vise. SO, I figured it just being plastic, I'd just hold it in place and take very light cuts. BIG mistake! I had a huge end-mill on the machine from the last operation and was too lazy to change it. I probably could've gotten away with it if I had used a small diameter bit and a much higher speed. But I didn't. It got ripped out of my hand, spun around and around until I could shut the machine off, broke the plastic and messed up the wire-mesh grill.

This was on Christmas eve. Right before I was going to wrap it up to put under the tree. Ever see a grown man cry? It isn't pretty. I don't mean from the pain of almost taking my thumb off (don't worry, no blood, just pain - a LOT of pain. It's fine now)

I WAS able to order a new one on-line right away. It got here today. She took the computer away yesterday. Sigh.

 
HERE IS THE COMPLETE SYSTEM that we ended up using and seems to work very well for college students that need a workstation computer to run programs like 3ds Max:

Note: An Nvidia Quadro 4000 video card was tried first but it was rejected because the GTX 580 performed just as well for a lot less money.

Note also that Other Motherboard / Memory combination's may be a better choice. This is just what we ended up using. No additional cables or parts were required.

Note also that it is very possible to save some money by using other CPU coolers and/or power supplies, etc.

Note: There are many reviewers who complain about the brown color of the fans on the Noctua cooler. If you use a HAF 932 you can completely disregard this complaint. The cooler looks absolutely fine in that case.

*********************************************************************

THE OFFICIAL 6-PAGE THREAD STUDENT WORKSTATION:

Intel Core i7-950 Bloomfield 3.06GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor BX80601950
Item #: N82E16819115211

Noctua NH-D14 120mm & 140mm SSO CPU Cooler
Comes with good thermal compound
Item #: N82E16835608018

GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD5 LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Item #: N82E16813128422

G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 12GB (3 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL7T-12GBRH
Item #: N82E16820231405

EVGA 015-P3-1580-AR GeForce GTX 580 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Item #: N82E16814130587

OCZ Vertex 2 OCZSSD2-2VTXE90G 2.5" 90GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
OS and Application C: drive – 90 GB seems ok. Don’t get smaller.
Item #: N82E16820227611

SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Two of these in RAID1
Item #: N82E16822152185

COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932-KKN1-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
Item #: N82E16811119160

SeaSonic X750 Gold 750W ATX12V V2.3/EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Item #: N82E16817151087

ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
or any other good DVD drive
Item #: N82E16827135204

Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - OEM
Item=N82E16832116758

Note: We used a cheap keyboard and wireless mouse in our build in order to save money.

*** Alvin HIGHLY recommends using these instead: ***

Logitech 920-000914 Black 106 Normal Keys USB Wired Ultra-thin Illuminated Keyboard
N82E16823126043

COOLER MASTER SGM-6000-KLLW1-GP Sentinel Advance Black 8 Buttons Wired Laser 5600 dpi Mouse
N82E16826570005

Total cost not including tax or shipping: $2,408.27
 
Just wanted to add while the PSU is the best 750w out there this xfx would've done just as well for less money
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207003&Tpk=xfx%20750w

Also on Mouse and Keyboard I believe it's a matter of personal preference and frankly would've chosen a cheaper mouse and the same keyboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826146014&cm_re=gigabyte_mouse-_-26-146-014-_-Product
I have the past version of this mouse and I love it it is an absolute joy to work with
 
I see a lot of chat about MPE and the 500 series cards. Does Adobe support these cards for MPE yet? I have a 570 and have had a lot of trouble trying to get MPE enabled with CS5.
 
`

OPEN THIS LINK: Scroll ALL the way down and read EVERYthing !

http://www.studio1productions.com/Articles/PremiereCS5.htm

Automatic Method Manual Method
To make it easier to unlock the your video card, I wrote a small program that will do all of the steps automatically. This program is for Windows.

This Program will work for those of you who have the following video cards:

Desktop Video Cards
Your laptop MUST have at least 896 Megs of video ram.

GeForce 9400 GT
GeForce 9500 GT
GeForce 9600 GSO
GeForce 9600 GT
GeForce 9800 GT
GeForce 9800 GTX+
GeForce 9800 GX2
GeForce GT 120
GeForce GT 130
GeForce GTS 150
GeForce GT 220
GeForce GT 230
GeForce GT 240
GeForce GTS 240
GeForce GTS 250
GeForce GTX 260
GeForce GTX 275
GeForce GTX 280
GeForce GTX 285
GeForce GTX 295
GeForce GT 320
GeForce GT 330
GeForce GT 340
GeForce GT 420
GeForce GT 430
GeForce GT 440
GeForce GTS 450
GeForce GTX 460
GeForce GTX 460 SE
GeForce GTX 465
GeForce GTX 470
GeForce GTX 480
GeForce GTX 570
GeForce GTX 580
Quadro 600
Quadro 2000
Quadro 4000
Quadro 5000
Quadro 6000
Quadro CX
Quadro FX 3700
Quadro FX 3800
Quadro FX 4800
Quadro FX 5600
Quadro FX 5800
Laptop GPUs
Your laptop MUST have at least 1 gig of video ram.

GeForce G110M
GeForce GT 130M
GeForce GTS 150M
GeForce GTS 160M
GeForce G210M
GeForce GT 230M
GeForce GT 240M
GeForce GTS 250M
GeForce GTS 260M
GeForce GTX 260M
GeForce GTX 280M
GeForce GTX 285M
GeForce 310M
GeForce GT 325M
GeForce GT 330M
GeForce GT 335M
GeForce GTS 350M
GeForce GTS 360M
GeForce GT 415M
GeForce GT 420M
GeForce GT 425M
GeForce GT 435M
GeForce GT 445M
GeForce GTX 460M
GeForce GTX 470M
GeForce GTX 480M
Quadro 5000M
Quadro FX 880M
Quadro FX 1800M
Quadro FX 2800M
Quadro FX 3700M
Quadro FX 3800M


.
 
STATUS UPDATE !!!

Due to several authoritative articles on Sandy Bridge, which I just read ... My recommendations have changed, on cooling and cases ...

It seems that the Socket 1366 Sandies will clock to 5GHz, using a simple 90mm cooler, without ever breakin' a sweat.

Intel Sandy Bridge "K" overclocked to 4.9 GHz on air
http://vr-zone.com/articles/intel-sandy-bridge-k-overclocked-to-4.9-ghz-on-air/9860.html

Even tho Illy's MASSIVE Noctua cooler DID pay for it's self, the moment he installed it ... I am changing/mitigating my previous recommendations ...

... It is STILL advisable to go with an i7-950 (as a stop-gap place-holder) over the next year (to 18 months) while Sandy's clocks go up and prices come down ...

... I am recommending An i7-950 and (ONLY) a Hyper212+ Cooler (or any other 120mm singlle-stack cooler with push-pull fan config.).

... I am also giving the "green light" (with the Hyper212+ config) to go with a HAF 922 or even an Antec 300 Illusion model case.

... I am also recommending NOT to over-rate your PSU ... Go with the newegg power calculator recommnedation (on the PSU side-bar) and include a 2nd GPU, if you really think you are going to do that (at some point in the future) ...
... I am recommending ONE SINGLE GTX570, as an initial config for CS5 et. al.

... Power requirements (for all components) are trending DOWNWARD ... Quickly.

... Illy has no reason to cry ... Sandy will be very happy with the Noctua ... It just will not be JUSTIFIED, from this point forward, as a 120mm push-pull will be OVERKILL, for Sandies.

And ... Since a smaller cooler and a lower power CPU is in all our future, all the extra room, turbulence, air-flow will not be nearly as critical.

So ... i7-950 ... Hyper 212+ with a matching fan (CoolerMaster CFM/RPM matched).
... An Antec 300 Illusion or HAF 922 case and ONE 570 ...
... Get 12GB of DDR3 @ 1333cas8 (generic is JUST FINE) ... Faster memory would only shave 30 seconds off an 11 minute render (if you get it stable!).

... MORE (cheaper/slower) memory will make your build MUCH faster than will expensive DRAM with FASTER TIMINGS !!! (Get gobs of cheaper, generic DRAM!).

 



Yeah ... I (just now) searched Google, on the term: " CS5 MPE 570 " ...

... It was the 5th link in the results.

uh-MAYY-Zink !!! :ouch:

 


Really? I was googling all sorts of variations and didn't find that website. Thanks anyway.

edit: I also wanted to see (when i was googling last night) if the card is even supported. I did happen to find that answer directly on the Adobe website and found that it is indeed not supported yet. That's why I had my initial question. I would much rather use the card without having to modify any files, but who knows how long it will be before Adobe releases an update with my card as "certified"

2nd edit: and by "holy crap" I meant "wow that's a lot of text," so don't flatter yourself.
 



Farting in one's own Lunar EVA Suit has a way of keeping one humble.

I get reminded that I am human, several times each day.

And ... I only posted that "quip" to remind myself, and everyone else, that ...

... It ain't " *what* you know" ...

... It's knowing where and how to look. ... 's'all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBU21lOJhY4
 



Fair enough :)
 


Why? It's just a simple text edit. You simply add the name of the card to a config file. It doesn't hurt anything, nor is it rocket science, and I'm still trying to figure out the "flatter yourself" comment...

 


Why should I have to read through a page with thousands of words on it when Adobe should just certify the card in the first place? I'm no newb when it comes to dealing with computers, particularly workarounds for PCs like this one. I would rather not have to deal with silly things like this, especially when it pertains to software that I earn money from using. I'm not editing my cool console game YouTube videos.

On the subject of what I said to Alvin, clearly what was said was to point out that you could supposedly just "google" something and solve all your issues, instead of pleasantly asking a forum (that was already talking about the subject to begin with). Please excuse me for not clicking on the link on google that referenced the keyword "570" next to the letters "FX." I merely skimmed over this link because of the data pulled said "FX 570" and not "GTX 570" like I was looking for.

There's a way to conduct yourself in real life, why can't people apply those rules to the internet? Is it really that hard? Do we have to use several exclamation points, dashes, and emoticons? Why not just be nice about things?

Edit: Furthermore, considering Alvin was talking about the GTX 570 and MPE, I figured "Hey, maybe I'm missing something. Is the 570 already a card that utilizes this?" I thought maybe I was overlooking something or needed to apply an update of some sort. All I was doing was asking. I had already read previously that it was not the case.
 


Well, obviously, because Adobe hasn't had time yet.

If you're not a tinkerer, then why are you here? And, exactly who has been rude? I still don't get it.
 


I think that's like asking why people who build houses many times use "cultured stone" when they could use the real thing. Same sort of idea.
 


Because I wasn't aware (at the time of the post) if they had already or not. Now that I'm absolutely certain they haven't, maybe I'll just wait until they do.

And in particular, guess how I found this thread? Google. It just so happened that I've read these forums many times in the past so I figured I'd ask the question that I was looking for. Said person could have easily just provided me with a link, instead of adding a snarky comment to go along with said link.

And why does this concern you anyway? The conversation was over, the answer was resolved. I'm not bumping this up anymore in lieu of the mods and other TH readers.
 


Oh, ok, NOW I get it...duh. Sorry, I can be kinda dense at times. Or maybe most of the time. Sorry.

If THAT offended you, your skin is too thin.
 
Jeeeshh ... I was jus' bein' my usual smart-assed self when I made the google quip ... I am HERE (when I can get the time), to do these things FOR people ...
... I was just divulging my dirty little secret ... That a lot of what I do is googling stuff up and just going to the product support areas.
... Talking about internet etiquite ... dude ... that's what makes the internet so fun/saucy/dicey ... It is a place where ... ahem ... WE DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE OURSELVES TOO SERIOUSLY ... Here? ... I'm just an ass who farts in his EVA Suit.

I don't mind sharing my tender grilled halibut, with you but, I really do hope you don't mind if I advise you how *I* go about fishing, just in case I'm not sitting on the beach, next time you fail to catch anything. Forget pride/ego and just slurp up the free goodies. Glad you got your answer.

 
Bah! I never even noticed anything "snarky". Had to get emphasized for me to even know what he was taking about.

He did make a good point, however. That being why is conversation different on the 'net. Which prompted my "cultured stone" comment, which I am SURE nobody understood. So I'll explain it:

"Cultured", or fake, or man-made stone veneer. Is it as good as real stone? Obviously not. Nevertheless, a lot of people use it. Why? Because it's cheap, easy, and fast. And while it would look absolutely ridiculous on an expensive customer log or timber-frame home, it looks fine in housing tracts. In fact, I would say that there, REAL stone might even look out of place. In certain environs, fake stone is totally appropriate.

Same as here. The type of language and manners that are acceptable in a forum would not fly in formal, face-to-face um... intercourse (classic sense of the word), but ARE totally normal and acceptable in an internet forum. You expect it. Just like you expect to see fake stone in a housing tract. (At least in California. I have NO IDEA what houses look like in other parts of the country, much less the world).

Does that make any sense? No? Ok, now I'm sorry I brought it up.

 
Well, I get razzed and dissed and hazed and bullied all the time ... I actually prefer it that way. Is it mature? ... cultured? ... mannered? ... reserved? ... "precious"? ...
HAIL, NO !!! (Praise GOD !).
... Hanging out, on forums can get pretty boring and redundant and it is kinda nice to be able to cast off the "personal-ity" of the real world, here.
... This is about knowledge, wisdom, tips, tricks, concepts, philosophies and "ideas".

... When "I" flame some hapless noob, it is more like one system of belief, clashing with another ... Like battle-bots ... and with technology, you either know or you don't, so it is really fun to "slice-n-dice", when you have "superior information".

... If you want to get anything on the internet, put on your knee-pads or be prepared to grab yer ankles because, hey, in the end, YOU get what YOU want and it is free of charge (unless time and pride are accounted for).

.... What is really fun is when some clueless noob THINKS he's gonna SPANK ME (daddy) ... And I just let the poor bassard hang himself.

I know there MUST be SOME women, come in here, SOME times ... But most all of them (I can only guess) would rather pretend to be men. I totally get that.

There ain't no room for real people here ... It is about ideas, philosophies, concepts, beliefs, et. al. ... And THOSE ELEMENTS duke it out. DO NOT TAKE ThIS PERSONALLY OR YOU WILL MISS ALL THE FUN.

It's like you are in an olympic gymnastic competition. It ain't always gonna be nice or fair but it is pretty cool, on the whole, so long as you can be as good at losing as you are at winning.

I have been in SO many flame wars ... won and lost ... I am * S O * enriched !!!

So don't go gettin' all precious and tender, with me, 'cause I gave you exactly what you came for!



 


Very well said!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Moderators online

Share this page

COMPANY
RESOURCES
FOLLOW
Top Bottom