[SOLVED] How loud should case fans be?

[Andrea Burgio]

I just bought two Noctua NF-P14s redux and I really had to return them.. They are really loud at just 800/900rpm and at 1500rpm it's like being on an airplane, it's just unbearable, I can literally hear them 2 rooms away. I have 3 ARCTIC F14 fans and at 800rpm (they're not pwm so that should be the only speed they should be running at), i can barely hear them (all running at the same time too). I thought the noctuas would have been so much better given the price, but they're really not (i can't buy more arctic fans because of the size, the'yre too thick). My question is, how loud should fans be at around 1000rpm? Are they all pretty much like the Noctuas and very loud, like that you can hear them very easily without even trying, or are there some fans similar to the arctics and barely hearable? I was thinking about getting the Noctua NF-A14 for their reputation, but after trying these Noctuas im not really sure..

 

[Colif]

Ideally you shouldn't hear them but in reality, as long as you can't hear them from next room they are quiet enough.

it could be you got the wrong Noctua models

For best results in all types of application, Noctua recommends the NF-A12x25. Alternatively, the NF-F12 is a pressure-optimised fan that excels on heatsinks and radiators and the NF-S12A is an airflow-optimised fan that provides excellent results as a case fan and in other low- to mid-impedance applications. Please see this page for a detailed performance comparison of NF-A12x25, NF-F12 and NF-S12A as well as further explanations why the NF-A12x25 provides best results in real-world applications, despite being neither a pressure- nor an airflow-optimised model.

The 15mm slim NF-A12x15 is only recommended for space-restricted applications where the standard 25mm thick models would not fit. In all other cases, the 120x25mm models will provide better results.

In the chromax line, Noctua recommends the pressure-optimised NF-F12 for heatsinks and radiators and the airflow-optimised NF-S12A for case fan usage.

In the redux line, Noctua recommends the pressure-optimised NF-P12 for heatsinks and radiators and the airflow-optimised NF-S12B for use as a case fan.

In the industrialPPC line, the pressure-optimised NF-F12 is the only 120mm model.

https://noctua.at/en/which_fan_is_right_for_me

NF-P are for Heatsinks and Radiators
NF-A are for case fans and are the silent ones - https://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-pwm

 

[sonofjesse]

I have them same fans no issues. Did you check your BIOS fan curves on them?

Are you super OCD about sounds and want no sound? Best to build a closet with custom AC duct work, and sound proofing, then put your computer in that room, then run your DP/HDMI cables though the floor or ceiling to your desk a good 10-15 feet away.

This way you won't be close to your PC.

 

[Paperdoc]

I also ask exactly which fan you had. Noctua has a real reputation for low noise and high air flow versus comparable fans.

You said you had "Noctua NF-P14s redux" fans. There are FOUR of those. Two different top speeds available, and in EACH of those you can get either a 3-pin or a 4-pin model. IF you got either 3-pin model and connected that to a fan header configured to use the new PWM Mode of fan speed control, then the fan's speed was NOT under control - it was always operating at full speed, and hence at max noise for that model. When you have a 3-pin fan, you need to configure the host header on the mobo to use the older Voltage Control Mode (aka DC Mode) to be able to control its speed.

 

[Andrea Burgio]

I also ask exactly which fan you had. Noctua has a real reputation for low noise and high air flow versus comparable fans.

You said you had "Noctua NF-P14s redux" fans. There are FOUR of those. Two different top speeds available, and in EACH of those you can get either a 3-pin or a 4-pin model. IF you got either 3-pin model and connected that to a fan header configured to use the new PWM Mode of fan speed control, then the fan's speed was NOT under control - it was always operating at full speed, and hence at max noise for that model. When you have a 3-pin fan, you need to configure the host header on the mobo to use the older Voltage Control Mode (aka DC Mode) to be able to control its speed.

I actually answered both of those questions in the question:
"I have 3 ARCTIC F14 fans"
"I just bought two Noctua NF-P14s redux"

Those are links to Amazon with the exact model, "Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM" and therefore 4-pin model.

I tried changing the speed in the BIOS, and at 800rpm they start to get very loud, while the arctic (no pwm) run at a stable 800rpm and i can't almost even hear them.
I'm not hating on Noctua or something, this is the first noctuas i try so i don't really know it as a brand, but I just don't get all the super good reviews and I don't want to return them if buying another pair of fans (more expensive) wouldn't make any difference.
Check the video i uploaded above

 

[Andrea Burgio]

I have them same fans no issues. Did you check your BIOS fan curves on them?

Are you super OCD about sounds and want no sound? Best to build a closet with custom AC duct work, and sound proofing, then put your computer in that room, then run your DP/HDMI cables though the floor or ceiling to your desk a good 10-15 feet away.

This way you won't be close to your PC.

Yeah i did! Check the video i just uploaded, do you fans do the same thing?

 

[Andrea Burgio]

Ideally you shouldn't hear them but in reality, as long as you can't hear them from next room they are quiet enough.

it could be you got the wrong Noctua models


https://noctua.at/en/which_fan_is_right_for_me

NF-P are for Heatsinks and Radiators
NF-A are for case fans and are the silent ones - https://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-pwm

I just uploaded a video showing what i mean.. Do you think that the other Noctuas (or any other brand) do the same thing? Because otherwise i might as well just keep these

 

[Phaaze88]

Wait a minute.
Why do you have top intake, and front exhaust?
The other fan placements look fine.

 

[Andrea Burgio]

Wait a minute.
Why do you have top intake, and front exhaust?
The other fan placements look fine.

minute 25:28 and 26:25, that's why i chose the top panel for intake and the front and back as exhaust

 

[Phaaze88]

minute 25:28 and 26:25, that's why i chose the top panel for intake and the front and back as exhaust

I see. It's one of those chassis with unconventional cooling setups.

 

[BogdanH]

...one of those chassis with unconventional cooling setups.

"unconventional" -I quess you're just being polite

 

[Phaaze88]

"unconventional" -I quess you're just being polite

What else am I supposed to say without being an ass about it? ¯\(ツ)/¯
At least the OP here seems to know what they were getting into with this one before they bought it.
Most of the NZXT H500 owners though?

 

[Andrea Burgio]

"unconventional" -I quess you're just being polite

What's wrong with this case? I think it's great, not too expensive, $90 (I paid it 70€), the materials are very good, the tempered glass feel super nice and it's very useful (you don't need to unscrew anything to open the computer), it looks great, with proper fans the airflow is very good (this winter was the first that I was literally cold sitting next to a computer lol). The only thing I don't like is the lack of hdd slots, you can only use 1 hard disk drive at the time, but I don't use more than 1 so It's all good. The reviews on Amazon are positive as well (make sure to filter by product..). I would buy it again 100%

 

[madmatt30]

minute 25:28 and 26:25, that's why i chose the top panel for intake and the front and back as exhaust

I don't know who the guy on youtube is but that cooling setup still makes abolutely no sense.
Especially that top rear as an intake behind the tower cooler.

All you're doing there is introducing turbulence behind the cpu cooler and making its fan work harder.

Those fronts should still be intakes, the top front should be intake, the rear and top rear should be exhaust.

 

[Krotow]

While fans aren't roaring in next room through closed doors and you can't hear them in headphones, consider them being not loud.

 

[BogdanH]

What's wrong with this case? I think it's great, not too expensive... with proper fans the airflow is very good...

Most important thing is, that you're happy with what you bough -I honestly mean that.

 

[Andrea Burgio]

While fans aren't roaring in next room through closed doors and you can't hear them in headphones, consider them being not loud.

Oh here you go, thank you! So fans are just loud in general, I'll expect less time then, thanks

 

[Krotow]

Oh here you go, thank you! So fans are just loud in general, I'll expect less time then, thanks

Yes, seems these fans you mentioned are loud. Unless you have wrong fan control mode (not PWM mode for your Noctua NF-P14s redux) set in BIOS. Or fans are connected through improper cable spliter which lose control or sensing signals in way to motherboard.

I actually answered both of those questions in the question:
"I have 3 ARCTIC F14 fans"
"I just bought two Noctua NF-P14s redux"

Those are links to Amazon with the exact model, "Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM" and therefore 4-pin model.

I tried changing the speed in the BIOS, and at 800rpm they start to get very loud, while the arctic (no pwm) run at a stable 800rpm and i can't almost even hear them.

Seems your problem begin right here. Arctic F14 are DC controlled fans and Noctua NF-P14s redux - PWM controlled. They cannot be connected to same motherboard system fan connector. Also if you use fan cable spliters, each fan model must use separate spliter (Arctic to Arctic and Noctua to Noctua), because DC and PWM control does not mix. And when wiring is installed, in BIOS set correct control type for each fan or fan type chain - DC for Arctic fans and PWM for Noctua fans.

FYI: PWM controlled fans, if set to DC mode by accident, rotate on full power. Thus become awfully loud. I believe your noctua's aren't rotate on 800 RPM, but in reality are trying to escape from wrong fan control configuration in BIOS.

 

[Andrea Burgio]

Yes, seems these fans you mentioned are loud. Unless you have wrong fan control mode (not PWM mode for your Noctua NF-P14s redux) set in BIOS. Or fans are connected through improper cable spliter which lose control or sensing signals in way to motherboard.



Seems your problem begin right here. Arctic F14 are DC controlled fans and Noctua NF-P14s redux - PWM controlled. They cannot be connected to same motherboard system fan connector. Also if you use fan cable spliters, each fan model must use separate spliter (Arctic to Arctic and Noctua to Noctua), because DC and PWM control does not mix. And when wiring is installed, in BIOS set correct control type for each fan or fan type chain - DC for Arctic fans and PWM for Noctua fans.

FYI: PWM controlled fans, if set to DC mode by accident, rotate on full power. Thus become awfully loud. I believe your noctua's aren't rotate on 800 RPM, but in reality are trying to escape from wrong fan control configuration in BIOS.

No every single fan is connected to a different connector. In the video above, you can see that I change the speed of the Noctua fans only. The arctic fans are in DC mode (standard settings) and they should run at constant speed. The Noctua fans are in PMW mode and at over 800RPM they start to make a lot of noise, at less than that, they're completely silent.

 

[N3wb13g]

No every single fan is connected to a different connector. In the video above, you can see that I change the speed of the Noctua fans only. The arctic fans are in DC mode (standard settings) and they should run at constant speed. The Noctua fans are in PMW mode and at over 800RPM they start to make a lot of noise, at less than that, they're completely silent.

I had some brands: Xigmatek, Enermax, Deepcool, Zalman. Aigo, Cubegaming. Some with LEDs, some not.
4-pin/pwm, 3-pin, all of them are 120mm.

To the conclusion:
Below 800rpm, most of them are quiet, but, higher than that the noise will be noticeable. I don't have Noctua yet (it's my dream fan btw), but I think that's normal, based on what my experiments on those more affordable fans.

The drawback is they got the airflow a bit lower, so that's why I'm using case that support 8 fans, 120mm one. So that I can get more airflow.

 

[N3wb13g]

Also, I believe it's not just the quietness that makes Noctua standing at higher price. Even at the same rpm, I'm sure they have more airflow than other brands.
As for example, I did some experiments. I'm using molex to 3-pin converter, but the molex was set to connect the 5v pin, not the 12v one.
Connected Zalman, Xigmatek and Enermax.
My Enermax fan got the most airflow, Xigmatek the second and Zalman the last.
Didn't use Aigo and Cubegaming, seems like it won't start running at 5v.

In my collection above, my Enermax has the highest price, yet it does have more airflow than the others at same voltage. So I'm sure your Noctua got more airflow a bit than the Arctic at the same rpm (or maybe same quietness).

 

[faalin]

Here, buy 4 of these and install them in your case for a week. After that week you wont care, any other fan will be the quietest you've ever heard.


Ask me how i know........ i had 20 of them in a push pull config on a water cooled rig, you want to talk about jet engine.

 

[Krotow]

No every single fan is connected to a different connector. In the video above, you can see that I change the speed of the Noctua fans only. The arctic fans are in DC mode (standard settings) and they should run at constant speed. The Noctua fans are in PMW mode and at over 800RPM they start to make a lot of noise, at less than that, they're completely silent.

You can try "Silent" fan configuration profile. Or play with fan load curve to make Noctua fan upper rotation limit around 800 RPM.

Ask me how i know........ i had 20 of them in a push pull config on a water cooled rig, you want to talk about jet engine.

Try to add wings to your PC case. It should fly just fine.

 

[Andrea Burgio]

I don't know who the guy on youtube is but that cooling setup still makes abolutely no sense.
Especially that top rear as an intake behind the tower cooler.

All you're doing there is introducing turbulence behind the cpu cooler and making its fan work harder.

Those fronts should still be intakes, the top front should be intake, the rear and top rear should be exhaust.

He chose rear and front as exhaust and top as intake, you can see it at minute 13:55. I did and I would have done the same thing - > since you want a slightly positive pressure in the case, you use the big hole in the back of the case as exhaust, the two fans on top as intake, and the front as exhaust since it has some little holes and not so much air moves out. It works pretty well like this. You have to use the top fans as intake even because there is a dust filter there, filtering the dust inside the case doesn't make so much sense lol

 

[Phaaze88]

I get the top intake to rear exhaust thing, but it's the front exhaust thing that puzzles me.
It was already poor for intake - exhaust isn't going to do any better, and should actually be worse.

I expected the TT H200 to behave just like NZXT's H500: rear + top exhaust only and no fans in the front, for negative pressure. I don't get the intent to force positive pressure here.
Dust? That's going to get in regardless of what one does.

You have to use the top fans as intake even because there is a dust filter there, filtering the dust inside the case doesn't make so much sense lol

The top filter is for when the PC is off; dust falls in from above. The filter is meant to keep that out.