[SOLVED] i7-8700k Dangerously overheating

[cwhizard24]

I'm having extreme temperature control problems with my rig. Idle temps are 65-75c. And the second I start a game it instantly jumps to 90-100+. This is causing the blue screen crash constantly. And I also believe it to be limiting my performance. I have a kraken M22 cooler but from the forums I've read it's just not enough to keep up with my 8700k. Ive seen the NH-D15 as well as the dark rock pro 4 suggested. I was wondering if I should go with one of these, or opt for a 240 radiator. If someone could help me with the ideal setup for my case, it would help alot.

My rig.
Case- Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 7
CPU- i7-8700k
CPU Cooler- NZXT M22 Kraken
GPU- ASUS STRIX 2080ti 11gb OC
Ram- G.Skill Trident Z DDR4 3200 16g(8x2)
Case- Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower
PSU- EVGA 650w 80+

 

[tennis2]

Did this problem just start, or?

Have you removed the water block from the CPU, cleaned off the old thermal paste, re-applied thermal paste, and reinstalled the water block.

Is the pump running at 100% duty cycle?

Are you overclocking the CPU while getting these temps, or is everything at stock/auto?

 

[Phaaze88]

Either one of those coolers would be better, as the Kraken M22 appears to have a high failure rate.

It could also be how you have it mounted in the chassis: since the pump is in the radiator, positioning it lower than the cpu block might help...

 

[faalin]

I run the cryorig R1 ultimate on my 8700K but i also delidded it with liquid metal between the chip and IHS.

 

[cwhizard24]

Did this problem just start, or?

Have you removed the water block from the CPU, cleaned off the old thermal paste, re-applied thermal paste, and reinstalled the water block.

Is the pump running at 100% duty cycle?

Are you overclocking the CPU while getting these temps, or is everything at stock/auto?

No overclock, everything is stock. The blue screen screen has been happening for almost a year and a half. I've always had considerably worse performance than what I would expect from my hardware, so About a year ago I bout the i7-8700k, the new Z370 mobo for the obvious performance boost and to see if it would fix the blue screen problem. Performance got significantly better, but still not as much as I'd expect with a system with these specs. But the blue screen problem persisted. I don't monitor my temps well enough so I don't know when the extreme overheating (100c+) started, but it's always ran in the 90s. I tried re applying thermal paste last year, doesn't seem to have helped but I was gonna try again and make sure that I tighten the cooler mount evenly when putting it back on to make sure it has good even contact. I'm not sure about about duty cycle. I'm not sure how but I will try to check when I get back to my computer.

 

[cwhizard24]

I run the cryorig R1 ultimate on my 8700K but i also delidded it with liquid metal between the chip and IHS.

I'm not sure what the process of delidding entails. I've only first heard about it while researching to fix this problem.

 

[faalin]

I'm not sure what the process of delidding entails. I've only first heard about it while researching to fix this problem.

i used Rockit Cool with their full copper IHS. When you first look at and read about it seems very scary, but once you do it its accually very easy. The biggest thing i feared was applying the liquid metal.

 

[cwhizard24]

Either one of those coolers would be better, as the Kraken M22 appears to have a high failure rate.

It could also be how you have it mounted in the chassis: since the pump is in the radiator, positioning it lower than the cpu block might help...

Either one of those coolers would be better, as the Kraken M22 appears to have a high failure rate.

It could also be how you have it mounted in the chassis: since the pump is in the radiator, positioning it lower than the cpu block might help...

This isn't my picture, but it's almost identical to my radiator placement in relation to the CPU

 

[cwhizard24]

Either one of those coolers would be better, as the Kraken M22 appears to have a high failure rate.

It could also be how you have it mounted in the chassis: since the pump is in the radiator, positioning it lower than the cpu block might help...

Is there a cooler you would suggest? Preferably one that fits in my case, but I'm planning a case upgrade anyways, so the most future proof one would probably be ideal.

 

[Phaaze88]

This isn't my picture, but it's almost identical to my radiator placement in relation to the CPU

Hmm, that might not be the best setup for it.
These hybrid coolers are not topped off with fluid, and the pumps should always stay 'wet' for longevity and the best performance.

I would suggest mounting the radiator to the front of the chassis, lower than the cpu block, and the fans set to pull air through the radiator and into the chassis... if it's even possible in the Carbide 200R, because the pics I looked up make it look like it isn't.

Is there a cooler you would suggest? Preferably one that fits in my case, but I'm planning a case upgrade anyways, so the most future proof one would probably be ideal.

Scythe FUMA 2(154.5mm)
Noctua NH-D15S Chromax Black(160mm)
Thermalright Macho Rev C(158mm)
Either of those will fit in pretty much most mid-sized ATX chassis and they have excellent ram clearance. A 240mm hybrid can also work.

 

[cwhizard24]

Hmm, that might not be the best setup for it.
These hybrid coolers are not topped off with fluid, and the pumps should always stay 'wet' for longevity and the best performance.

I would suggest mounting the radiator to the front of the chassis, lower than the cpu block, and the fans set to pull air through the radiator and into the chassis... if it's even possible in the Carbide 200R, because the pics I looked up make it look like it isn't.


Scythe FUMA 2(154.5mm)
Noctua NH-D15S Chromax Black(160mm)
Thermalright Macho Rev C(158mm)
Either of those will fit in pretty much most mid-sized ATX chassis and they have excellent ram clearance. A 240mm hybrid can also work.

Okay. Im going to order the Noctua and in the meantime I'll try rearranging the radiator and fan. I'll probably go ahead and delid and add a copper IHS. I'll be upgrading the case soon. May go with a larger radiator then.

 

[cwhizard24]

Hmm, that might not be the best setup for it.
These hybrid coolers are not topped off with fluid, and the pumps should always stay 'wet' for longevity and the best performance.

I would suggest mounting the radiator to the front of the chassis, lower than the cpu block, and the fans set to pull air through the radiator and into the chassis... if it's even possible in the Carbide 200R, because the pics I looked up make it look like it isn't.


Scythe FUMA 2(154.5mm)
Noctua NH-D15S Chromax Black(160mm)
Thermalright Macho Rev C(158mm)
Either of those will fit in pretty much most mid-sized ATX chassis and they have excellent ram clearance. A 240mm hybrid can also work.

One last question. Which would cool better? A liquid cooler like the Cooler Master MASTERLIQUID ML240L or the Noctua NH-d15?

 

[rubix_1011]

D15

THe ML240L is the 'quiet' version of the cooler, where the ML240R is the performance version.

 

[Phaaze88]

One last question. Which would cool better? A liquid cooler like the Cooler Master MASTERLIQUID ML240L or the Noctua NH-d15?

D15 wins. Masterliquid(ML) 'L' series cuts some corners, unlike the 'R' version, which would be a better competitor to the D15.

I'll probably go ahead and delid and add a copper IHS.

Make sure you read up on that if you actually go that route.
I recently delidded my own cpu, but left the IHS off. The liquid metal application is probably the 'scariest' part of the process.
You can't apply too much, and you can't apply too little. I did the latter, and ended up with 80C in bios... XD

 

[cwhizard24]

D15 wins. Masterliquid(ML) 'L' series cuts some corners, unlike the 'R' version, which would be a better competitor to the D15.


Make sure you read up on that if you actually go that route.
I recently delidded my own cpu, but left the IHS off. The liquid metal application is probably the 'scariest' part of the process.
You can't apply too much, and you can't apply too little. I did the latter, and ended up with 80C in bios... XD

But you would still go with the D15 over the R version as well?

 

[Phaaze88]

But you would still go with the D15 over the R version as well?

Depends on what my goals are. I used to be, "Air coolers, all day, erry day."
Now, "It's nice to have options."

IMO, the biggest differences between air and hybrid coolers:
A)Value, or price to performance. Air coolers win this hands down.
With air, fan failure is typically the only point of failure; heatsinks last a lifetime.
Hybrids have fans, a pump, and fluid. The units slowly lose fluid over the years, and when the pump fails, that's all she wrote. Most of these devices aren't intended to be serviced/refilled by the user either.
Hybrids are much more expensive than their price may suggest, but when you consider that they are a 'quick and dirty/cheap' alternative to custom liquid, they aren't so bad here.

B)Also, you'd better have a backup cooler on hand for whenever the hybrid cooler pump does kick the bucket, as you can't shouldn't continue to use it in that state.
Air coolers? If the single fan, or both fans die on it, the heatsink can still be actively cooled by the chassis fans while you wait on some replacements, if you don't already have 'em on hand.

C)Air coolers have physical limits. Generally, the bigger the heatsink, the more heat it can handle, to a point.
-M-ITX and other tiny form factor chassis combined with even a moderately high power cpu pose a challenge for air coolers.
-Even the largest air coolers today can have trouble with really high power chips, like Intel's extreme series, or i9 cpus, for example. Those pretty much demand like a 360mm hybrid, a level of cooling capability that the best air models can't touch.