Question Is my PSU failing?

Mar 13, 2020
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For the past two days, when I try to turn my PC on after turning it off for the night, the power button won't work. I press the button, it makes a little sound like it's going to turn on but doesn't. I had to unplug and plug my PC back in and press a few more times for it to work. I don't think it's the power switch because it wouldn't make that sound if it wasn't working. I've had this PSU for around 8 months - it's a Corsair RMx 650w PSU. I tested it by turning my computer off, flicking the PSU off, holding down the power switch, then flicking the switch back on and trying again and it still took a few times to turn on.

I really need to check tomorrow to see if it happens again or if this is all happenstance. The only thing I can think of that happened recently was enabling XMP (that was a few weeks ago though) and a little power blip today. I don't think we had any surge yesterday. I have a surge protecotr, mind you. My specs:

Ryzen 7 2700
16 GB DDR4-3000
B450 Tomahawk
EVGA 2070 Super XC Ultra
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Disconnect the front panel wires from the motherboard pwr pins. Then use a screwdriver to jump those two pins together, being careful to not touch other pins. If the system starts up fine then you know it is the switch. If it does the same thing, then you know it is the PSU or motherboard.

If it is the PSU or motherboard, you will probably need to swap out the PSU with a known good unit to positively determine which is causing the problem, but you CAN test the PSU as follows if you have access to a volt meter.


If your "surge protector" is a power strip, then it's VERY likely that might be the problem. Eliminate it, and plug directly into the wall. You should NEVER use a power strip to plug your PSU into unless it is a very high quality industrial series type unit. Something from the likes of Eaton, Tripp Lite, Leviton, GE industrial, etc., OR if you have a UPS system, then plugged into that. If you have a UPS or power strip, eliminate those by plugging directly into the wall.

Other devices such as your monitor or printer can plug into the power strip, but don't use it for the PSU unless it is a VERY high quality model. Those Belkin, Monster, Amazon and other cheap power strips are not high quality and they don't actually protect much of anything. They cause more problems than they solve.
 
Mar 13, 2020
39
0
30
0
Disconnect the front panel wires from the motherboard pwr pins. Then use a screwdriver to jump those two pins together, being careful to not touch other pins. If the system starts up fine then you know it is the switch. If it does the same thing, then you know it is the PSU or motherboard.

If it is the PSU or motherboard, you will probably need to swap out the PSU with a known good unit to positively determine which is causing the problem, but you CAN test the PSU as follows if you have access to a volt meter.


If your "surge protector" is a power strip, then it's VERY likely that might be the problem. Eliminate it, and plug directly into the wall. You should NEVER use a power strip to plug your PSU into unless it is a very high quality industrial series type unit. Something from the likes of Eaton, Tripp Lite, Leviton, GE industrial, etc., OR if you have a UPS system, then plugged into that. If you have a UPS or power strip, eliminate those by plugging directly into the wall.

Other devices such as your monitor or printer can plug into the power strip, but don't use it for the PSU unless it is a VERY high quality model. Those Belkin, Monster, Amazon and other cheap power strips are not high quality and they don't actually protect much of anything. They cause more problems than they solve.
I have a surge protector. I made sure that it was when I bought it and not a power strip.
 
For the past two days, when I try to turn my PC on after turning it off for the night, the power button won't work. I press the button, it makes a little sound like it's going to turn on but doesn't. I had to unplug and plug my PC back in and press a few more times for it to work. I don't think it's the power switch because it wouldn't make that sound if it wasn't working. I've had this PSU for around 8 months - it's a Corsair RMx 650w PSU. I tested it by turning my computer off, flicking the PSU off, holding down the power switch, then flicking the switch back on and trying again and it still took a few times to turn on.

I really need to check tomorrow to see if it happens again or if this is all happenstance. The only thing I can think of that happened recently was enabling XMP (that was a few weeks ago though) and a little power blip today. I don't think we had any surge yesterday. I have a surge protecotr, mind you. My specs:

Ryzen 7 2700
16 GB DDR4-3000
B450 Tomahawk
EVGA 2070 Super XC Ultra
Yeah. This sounds like a motherboard issue.

Clear the CMOS on your motherboard:

Unplug the PSU and wait until the standby LED goes out (if it has one.. I can't recall).

If you have a spare jumper, jump JBAT1 for a few seconds.

If you don't have a jumper, use the reset button connector. Put it on JBAT1 and hold down reset for a couple seconds.

Put the reset connector back and plug the PSU back in.

Does the PC turn on now?
 
Mar 13, 2020
39
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30
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Yeah. This sounds like a motherboard issue.

Clear the CMOS on your motherboard:

Unplug the PSU and wait until the standby LED goes out (if it has one.. I can't recall).

If you have a spare jumper, jump JBAT1 for a few seconds.

If you don't have a jumper, use the reset button connector. Put it on JBAT1 and hold down reset for a couple seconds.

Put the reset connector back and plug the PSU back in.

Does the PC turn on now?
Sorry, I don’t mean to be a nuisance but I don’t really know what these means. Also, my computer can still turn on, it just takes several tries after unplugging and plugging back in, then pressing the button several times. But this is not the norm. I also can’t seem to replicate the issue unless it’s been off a while, so I have my PC off for now and I will try again in a few hours.
 
Sorry, I don’t mean to be a nuisance but I don’t really know what these means. Also, my computer can still turn on, it just takes several tries after unplugging and plugging back in, then pressing the button several times. But this is not the norm. I also can’t seem to replicate the issue unless it’s been off a while, so I have my PC off for now and I will try again in a few hours.
I know it still turns on. That's why I think it's the motherboard.

I was under the impression that you built the PC yourself and know what a clear CMOS jumper and reset button connector was. If you don't know what this means, you need to take the PC back to whoever built it for you.
 
Sorry, I don’t mean to be a nuisance but I don’t really know what these means. Also, my computer can still turn on, it just takes several tries after unplugging and plugging back in, then pressing the button several times. But this is not the norm. I also can’t seem to replicate the issue unless it’s been off a while, so I have my PC off for now and I will try again in a few hours.
When you power it on and it doesn't "start up", what do the diagnostic LEDs say? Is CPU lit up? RAM? VGA? Or does the diagnostic LEDs stay off?
 
Mar 13, 2020
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When you power it on and it doesn't "start up", what do the diagnostic LEDs say? Is CPU lit up? RAM? VGA? Or does the diagnostic LEDs stay off?
Just tried to turn it back on from a few hours of being off. It took like 4 button presses but each time I didn’t see the LED indicator or the back lights light up up on the board. I didn’t see any activity on the board at all until it turned on properly
 
Mar 13, 2020
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If those instructions Jon gave you are too difficult to follow, then it's probably a REALLY good idea to take it to somebody who understands them, so that you don't make a mistake that might cost you some hardware.
I’ve just never heard of those terms before. I looked it up and it seems easy. Can’t I just take the battery out and reset CMOS that way? Seems pretty foolproof.
 
Mar 13, 2020
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Very unlikely to be the switch.
Just waited a day to think it over, and I can power up my PC 100% now. I know what the problem is, however. As you said, likely not the PSU. It depends on the pressure I put on the power button. If I press down normally, the power button doesn't really light up. However, I can get it to power up every single time without fault if I press down harder. If that's the case, would the issue be the button itself? The MOBO?
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Most likely, I'd say that the mounting of the power button has been compromised. Normally these are either snap fit into place or held with two small screws. And, they are easily replaceable and highly available, so if it IS the power switch itself, it's not a big deal to replace it in most cases. It might even just need to be pushed back into place and super glued or hot glued so it doesn't move when you press the button.

Likely, it is covered under warranty and they SHOULD be willing to send you a new switch if you need one.
 
Reactions: rilkar999
Mar 13, 2020
39
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Most likely, I'd say that the mounting of the power button has been compromised. Normally these are either snap fit into place or held with two small screws. And, they are easily replaceable and highly available, so if it IS the power switch itself, it's not a big deal to replace it in most cases. It might even just need to be pushed back into place and super glued or hot glued so it doesn't move when you press the button.

Likely, it is covered under warranty and they SHOULD be willing to send you a new switch if you need one.
Thank you so much for the help. I have noticed that it's a little wiggly, which I didn't notice before. It may just be due to the fact that I've taken more notice to it lately since the problem, but it's worth a try.
 

EggyDevil

Distinguished
Jan 9, 2013
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Thank you so much for the help. I have noticed that it's a little wiggly, which I didn't notice before. It may just be due to the fact that I've taken more notice to it lately since the problem, but it's worth a try.
I'm having a similar issue with a newer model of the HX750, described here.
Did you manage to get a new case power button switch? Did that make a difference? Did you come across any new ideas?

Thanks!
 

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