Question Is WD My Book Drive Dead? Need help identifying TVS Diodes.

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AL95

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Jul 13, 2022
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Hi Dear Wizards,

Some backstory, I was using the drive normally copying some items over when it suddenly self ejected with some power or usb warning i can't remember, and wouldn't detect. I could still see the drive in disk utility (MAC) but it can't be mounted (greyed out)

I brought the drive over to a PC and tried it, somehow it was working normally, so first instinct is to copy out all essential files and store it elsewhere. Midway thru, the drive hung again and windows became unresponsive until i plugged the drive out.

That was the last time i was able to detect the drive. It would still spin and start up, and those whirring sounds normally before a drive normally gets detected "connects" to the PC.
The only thing is that whirring sound would repeat and repeat like it's trying to connect but something is preventing it from doing so.

After some research and trying, i assumed it was a stuck head? I took the drive to the (Cleanest) room in my house, and To my desperation i opened the enclosure and everything seems fine. The platters look clean & undamaged, and the heads were in the parked position.

I tried pushing the heads back/forth and it seemingly moves around normally, and i have put it back into the parked position. I used a plastic spudger tool to do this.

I closed the enclosure, and still same issue occurred where it just could not be detected. And shortly after this, the drive stopped spinning all together.

To some further research, when a drive does not spin at all it is most likely the diodes/fuse dying on the pcb.

Thus me asking here on how to identify them as it does not have the "D" wording like other PCBS.

Needing some help here to identify which are the TVS Diodes from my WD HDD PCB. Pictures are in link below

DRIVE/PCB PHOTOS


Do you think my logic is accurate to assume the PCB is at fault or could there be any other possible causes. Do you think i have self sabotaged myself by opening up the drive enclosure?

I also have a second IDENTICAL drive (purchased at the same time) that i might want to use as a PCB donor perhaps or test if it is indeed the PCB at fault. I understand you need to solder the BIOS chip to the donor PCB correct? Could it be just put on and powered on, just for the sake of testing if it spins, or not? Without damaging anything.

All that matters to me is some precious pictures i have stored on the drive. And why i have not sent it to a drive repair specialist yet, is cause i can't afford to. I live in south east asia where most people are just straight up not willing to diagnose components individually, and would just quote an equivalent of $2000USD to recover my data. Really tacky situation!

Any help is much appreciated!
 
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A stuck head would prevent the drive from spinning, as would a shorted TVS diode.

The original problem was not PCB related. I don't know what the situation is now.

Your PCB has 3 "ROMs" and a dual 8-pin e-fuse (no TVS diodes) plus two smt fuses (marked with an "S").

Do you have a multimeter?
 
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A stuck head would prevent the drive from spinning, as would a shorted TVS diode.

The problem is not PCB related.
Yes sir that is the direction i'm headed too.


I Measured the 3 items that are circled which i assume are the TVS Diodes? Please correct me if i'm wrong!

On The Continuity Check (auto), im getting roughly 410ohm from all 3.
On the Impedance check, im getting 1.037 Kilohm from all 3.

Does this add up sir or am i measuring the wrong thing/wrong setting?
 
There are no TVS diodes. See the edits to my previous post.

http://users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/810011/e-fuse_smt_fuses.jpg

Measure the resistance of each smt fuse.

Power up the PCB on its own and measure the voltage between a screw hole and each of the 12V fused, 12Vout, 5V fused and 5Vout test points.


SMT Fuses - I got reading of 0.2 then it goes down to 0.0 ohm. Is this normal?

Let me get back to you on the power voltage stuff tomorrow sir, will be needing to borrow a power supply as this originally came from the WD Mybook enclosure. I Tried it with it's mybook power adapter and am not even getting voltage on the railings.

Thank you very much for looking into this and helping me.
 
You can power the drive from the PSU inside your PC.

The fuses should measure close to zero ohms, so they are OK.
You can power the drive from the PSU inside your PC.

The fuses should measure close to zero ohms, so they are OK.
Just done the measurements

I'm getting 12DcV from the 12v fused and 12v out
and 5DcV from the 5v fused and 5v out..
That is as it should be?

Still no spin as it is receiving the power.
 
Your e-fuse is OK.

Some newer drives support the Power Disable signal on pin #3 of the SATA power connector. If this pin has 3.3V on it, the drive will be in sleep mode. The normal setting should be 0V.

If you connect the PCB on its own to a SATA port in your computer, does it show up in BIOS or Disk Management?

Here is [an unresolved] thread with a similar problem:
https://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41501

Power up your PCB and measure the voltages between each inductor and a screw hole. These are your onboard supply voltages.

Here is another thread for reference purposes:
https://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41493
 
Your e-fuse is OK.

Some newer drives support the Power Disable signal on pin #3 of the SATA power connector. If this pin has 3.3V on it, the drive will be in sleep mode. The normal setting should be 0V.

If you connect the PCB on its own to a SATA port in your computer, does it show up in BIOS or Disk Management?

Here is [an unresolved] thread with a similar problem:
https://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41501

Power up your PCB and measure the voltages between each inductor and a screw hole. These are your onboard supply voltages.

Here is another thread for reference purposes:
https://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41493
Thank you. Alot for me to go through.

Do you think it would be wise for me to do a straight swap from another IDENTICAL drive i have? If i swap the PCB without changing the BIOS. Will it damage anything on the patient board?

Also, just say after powering up ... it spins.. Do you think there is a slight chance i'll be able to read the drive?

And if it does fail anyhow, will it be safe to put back on the Donor Drive?


My donor drive is the exact one cause i bought them together.
 
The "ROM" chips contain unique calibration data. You can try the donor PCB, but you won't be able to access your data unless you transfer the ROMs. However, the donor PCB should at least confirm whether the spin-up problem is PCB related.

Edit:

I think your PCB is "MCU locked". That is, the MCU chip has a unique security key which encrypts the data. This means that a PCB swap won't work, even after a ROM transfer.

Note that this unlocked PCB will allow professional data recovery tools to access the firmware modules on the drive, but it will not decrypt the data:

https://www.hddheadtools.com/product/wd-2060-810011-hdd-firmware-unlock-pcb-1c-version/
 
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The "ROM" chips contain unique calibration data. You can try the donor PCB, but you won't be able to access your data unless you transfer the ROMs. However, the donor PCB should at least confirm whether the spin-up problem is PCB related.

Edit:

I think your PCB is "MCU locked". That is, the MCU chip has a unique security key which encrypts the data. This means that a PCB swap won't work, even after a ROM transfer.

Note that this unlocked PCB will allow professional data recovery tools to access the firmware modules on the drive, but it will not decrypt the data:

https://www.hddheadtools.com/product/wd-2060-810011-hdd-firmware-unlock-pcb-1c-version/


I will try to swap the donor pcb to the patient just to qualm my curiosity, but seemingly in your words the drive is pretty much screwed unless i send it to a professional data recovery center am i ryte? 😴

Why oh why would WD make something so impossible to fix/repair and so easily fail :s I didn't even plug in any wrong power adapter it's just been running as usual then BAM it died 😖😖😖 I bought the drive in 2020!
 
I don't think that there is much hope for a DIY recovery. This model has added complications in that it is an SMR type, not CMR. Also, many data recovery shops may not take on your job after removing the top cover, or they may charge you an additional fee.

When you next spin up the drive, there is a risk that any contaminants you may have introduced will crash the heads.
 
Why oh why would WD make something so impossible to fix/repair and so easily fail :s I didn't even plug in any wrong power adapter it's just been running as usual then BAM it died 😖😖😖 I bought the drive in 2020!
Spinning hard drives are not a 'repair' device.
Especially DIY at home.
The tolerances are far too tight.

Replace, and recover your data from the backup.
 
I don't think that there is much hope for a DIY recovery. This model has added complications in that it is an SMR type, not CMR. Also, many data recovery shops may not take on your job after removing the top cover, or they may charge you an additional fee.

When you next spin up the drive, there is a risk that any contaminants you may have introduced will crash the heads.
Just an update on the issue after 2 long years.

Have swapped the Donor HDD PCB to Faulty HDD. Does not Spin up.

I put the faulty HDD PCB onto the Donor HDD. It DOES spin up but not able to get/show data (as didn't swap the PCB.)

Does this confirm that it is not the PCB that is at fault here, for even spin up? Could it be the spindle motor?

I did read through the "MCU Lock". But does it also cause the HDD not to spin?

Hoping to still be able to get a reply from you good sir.
 
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