[SOLVED] It's worse than I thought. My 1st Build's CPU is running HOT! Like, 100c hot.

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PurpleChange

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SO much regret. As deep as I am in now I could have bought a prebuilt with better specs. Oh well, I'm learning a lot.

I got the basics together; it posted, unlicensed (let's not go there) WIN10Home loaded, BIOS updated, Main drivers installed.
Here's my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hL79vW

I installed GeForce Experience, NVIDIA Control Panel, Steam and Origin and started Playing SWBF2. After a while I noticed the exhaust was pretty hot so I installed Open Hardware Monitor and Holy Heart Attack! CPU Package 103.5c and CPU CCD #1 102.3c! (I have no idea what those really even mean) I'm assuming that's too hot.

I've OC'd nothing except my RAM to it's specs. This morning I played around with the fan settings in the BIOS and really boosted them. It's helped a little but not much. Another quick session of SWBF2 ran it in the 90's, it spiked over 100 a few times. Just windows, chrome and OHM running right now, CPU total load under 3% and it's running at 70c.

Obviously I need more fans at least. I thought that only the 2 included case fans may run a little warm but with no OCing and it being a fairly mild system, as I understand it, it didn't expect it to run that hot.

I don't think this is an airflow issue. It also seems I've done something wrong or not done something right.

I read some articles and forum posts about voltages and the Ryzen 3600 but I didn't understand them. You'll really have to talk to me like I'm stupid. I'm in over my head. The Youtube videos make it look easy.

Any ideas on where to start, or what I can tell you to help you help me?

I'd really appreciate it. It would be a real bummer if I blew this build.
 
Solution
Maybe my next build and hopefully a long time from now I can look at liquid. Knowing what I know now, I'll probably always overshoot cooling in the future. I've learned my lesson.

The Fractal Design G isn't going to win awards for case flow. In fact, I'm kind of in a conundrum now about fan placement. I have an extra and can't decide where to put it in or if I even should. I was going to put it in the bottom like this:
MUyVzjd.jpg




But my PSU is too big, it won't fit.

So I have it like this:
V2rj156.jpg

I took the screen out of the top back vent (blowing out) and doubled the screens on the top front vent to hopefully create a little resistance to air flow. I thought of...
It could be lousy paste.... how did you apply it? a pea-size dot in the middle is preferred, but if that stuff you used was really old it may be dried up and won't spread out evenly with cooler pressure. Older pastes also needed a bit of time at hot temperature to achieve full effectiveness.

But also seconding that after a CMOS reset you need to re-enable all the BIOS settings from before...AMD CoolnQuiet, Global C States, Processor CPPC and CPPC Preferred states all enabled. Don't leave in AUTOMATIC or DEFAULT as that seems to be same as DISABLED in many mobo BIOS's. Those settings are important to fully enable the processor's power saving features and keep it from running so hot even at idle and to prefer cooler running cores for lightly threaded tasks.

Also, check that Windows is running the Ryzen Balanced power plan. That ALSO let's the processor manage power to keep cooler; it does it much better than Windows can. DO NOT change minimum power state from 99%. You'll only have the Ryzen Balanced plan available if you've installed the AMD Chipset drivers.

Don't forget to check, just in case, if you also need to turn PBO to Disable again.

If you happend to upgrade your cooler later on, you may wana test PBO Enable.
 

Joel89

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Still hot.
0f8Jp8C.png

pnN5OCk.png


Despite all the issues, the CPU looked fine. The pins are perfect. It was just really stuck to the heatsink. When I removed it, I pulled straight up. I don't see any damage to the CPU or the socket. Upon reinstallation the socket holds the CPU firmly, there is no resistance when locking the CPU into the socket.

The cooler didn't go on any differently this time than the last other than using really lousy thermal paste this time and me being absolutely sure all the screws started before I began, 1/4 turn at a time, in a crossing pattern and ended up with all the screws tightening down on the same rotation just like the first time.

The thermal paste was evenly distributed with a equal amount of paste squeezed out on all four sides from the first attempt. Yes, I had trouble with the bracket and starting a screw, but it tightened down evenly the first time.

...I think. lol. I just don't know any more.

Maybe it's the lousy paste?

Maybe it's been something else all along?

Maybe I damaged something I can't see, realize or understand despite all my caution and care? (seems to me that if I damaged something, the PC wouldn't post).

Maybe some great thermal paste and some awesome cooling and airflow will make a difference when I get all that installed. I can hope. But this processor, even under it's current airflow and cooling conditions, shouldn't be running this hot, now more than ever. The CPU and cooler is installed correctly, we know that.

In the morning I will reset all the BIOS tweaks we did earlier. That seemed to help a little. But I have no idea what the next step is.

Hopefully one of you guys have some advice. You've certainly been supportive and helpful so far. I need to sleep.
This may seem like a bit of a dumb question but does your heat sync have a fan attached to it and if so is that fan working/plugged in?
 


The OP already wrote a lot of times, he just build this new PC and mounted the stock cooler that came in the sealed box, Why on earth will the OP remove the fan from the cooler and leave the heatsink alone?, Specially when having high temperature issues.

OP maybe new to AMD and Ryzen 3rd gen, but if you read all the posts, OP also already pointed out he changed a few laptops fans, so its not a complete newbie.

He/She is probably just afraid of breaking a new pc part that cost a lot of money, and that makes total sense to me.
 
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PurpleChange

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Let me start by saying again how much I appreciate all the help. Let me try to answer all of these one by one.
It's very, very common. Pull some dental floss between the cpu and heatsink and it will come away.

BEFORE putting it back in look along each and every row of pins in each direction to look for any that are bent. A bent pin is easily staightened up with a .5mm pentel pencil with the lead removed...slip it over the pin to bend it.

It's very common, but it's also not something you want to do. To avoid this next time: heat up the system first, then shut down to remove it. Don't just tug straight up but loosen the screws then twist it side to side slightly before lifting it off.
Yes, I fell alseep watching youtube vids of people having this problem. It just really scared me, I've never worked with an A4 socket.

I will be changing all the things that helped yesterday. I'm expecting limited results (see further down).

I also saw a few videos of people having the same issue with the B450 Gaming Plus Max and the bracket that apparently IS NOT attached by the manufacturer and the same issue I had is common.

I was, as I was from the beginning, very careful with the CPU. I closely examined it with a strong magnifying glass. The pins looked great and the CPU dropped into the socket just as it should. I saw a few more posts/questions about my about my CPU and cooler install. I'll comment on this again:

I was pretty confident about my CPU and cooler install in the first place but, of course, it makes all the sense in the world to eliminate all possibilities. Now I am absolutely confident in that install. The paste isn't great, for the time being, but it should do fine until I get a better cooler and install that with some Arctic M-X or something. That same paste is holding my HP laptop at 30-35C while three weeks ago it shut down on me 3-4 a day from overheating. I may not know everything or even much but I know how to install a heatsink. I keep PCs forever because I can't afford new ones - I have to fix what I have. I've just never worked with these newer components and chipsets. The install is not the issue. I'd like to move on from that unless we are talking about damage that may have been incurred prior to my purchase or faulty components. I get it. You need to get the CPU/Cooler install right and many don't. I even saw a guy last night do what so many have asked about: He didn't remove the plastic from the heat sink. Guys, I was FAR more careful and observant of my work than that. LOL.

If you loaded the default settings, then you may need to go back to the BIOS and set all those options you posted earlier again. That should let you go back to the Max 80°C.

And again, as I worte already 80°C as Max temp should not be an issue for Ryzen 3rd gen.

Yes, that is first on my list today. Again, expecting limited results (see below)

It could be lousy paste.... how did you apply it? a pea-size dot in the middle is preferred, but if that stuff you used was really old it may be dried up and won't spread out evenly with cooler pressure. Older pastes also needed a bit of time at hot temperature to achieve full effectiveness.

But also seconding that after a CMOS reset you need to re-enable all the BIOS settings from before...AMD CoolnQuiet, Global C States, Processor CPPC and CPPC Preferred states all enabled. Don't leave in AUTOMATIC or DEFAULT as that seems to be same as DISABLED in many mobo BIOS's. Those settings are important to fully enable the processor's power saving features and keep it from running so hot even at idle and to prefer cooler running cores for lightly threaded tasks.

Also, check that Windows is running the Ryzen Balanced power plan. That ALSO let's the processor manage power to keep cooler; it does it much better than Windows can. DO NOT change minimum power state from 99%. You'll only have the Ryzen Balanced plan available if you've installed the AMD Chipset drivers.

The paste is good. Not top quality but it will suffice. It went on fine and there were no problems.

Again, I'm expecting results similar to yesterday from my tweaks - helpful but not enough. More on that in a minute.

I did see last night someone saying that Ryzen Balance was causing him heat issues with a Ryzen 3000. I have defaulted back to Windows Balanced. The creator of that video showed marked results from that so I don't know about this one. We'll have to look further into this one.

Don't forget to check, just in case, if you also need to turn PBO to Disable again.

If you happend to upgrade your cooler later on, you may wana test PBO Enable.

You got it! Will do.

This may seem like a bit of a dumb question but does your heat sync have a fan attached to it and if so is that fan working/plugged in?

Yup, absolutely. At this point there are no dumb questions. Thanks for helping.

In third column of his latest HWInfo report...CPU fan is screaming away at 2700RPM. I ASSUME that's the fan on the CPU cooler LOL

Yeah, as hot as its' running the fan is screaming. It is the CPU cooler, it is connected to the correct socket on the mobo. Let it scream. It will be in the trash in a few weeks. From what I understand AMD should have NEVER included that inadequate cooling system with this CPU. Shame.

The OP already wrote a lots of times, he just build this new PC and mounted the stock cooler that came in the sealed box, Why on earth will the OP remove the fan from the cooler and leave the heatsink alone?, Specially when having high temperature issues.

OP maybe new to AMD and Ryzen 3rd gen, but if you read all the posts, OP also already pointed out he changed a few laptops fans, so its not a complete newbie.

He/She is probably just afraid of breaking a new pc part that cost a lot of money, and that makes total sense to me.

Thanks RodroX. I'm not sure what all that was about but it looks like a few posts were deleted. This is stressful stuff.

I assure all of you that no one is more stressed than I. I am horribly disabled from a spina bifida related birth defect. I am dirt poor and I live my life mostly from a couch. My PC is my only lifeline and I've been using the same HP laptop for 13 years and it's been on it's last leg for years now. I was on a teleconference with my doctor three weeks ago and it overheated and SHUT DOWN THREE times during that appointment. I fixed that for now. But I've been pulling my hair out for a few years now trying to figure out what I would do when that HP finally died on me. I'm poor. Dirt poor. I live at 50% UNDER federal poverty guidelines.

And then $1200 hit my bank account - my one chance. There is a LOT I could do with that money. But a PC to hold me into the future, a PC that I greatly need to maintain my sanity and make a little extra money here and there, is absolutely my wisest investment. I'll likely never get another chance at this.

So DEEEEEEP Breaths.

One thing I'm finding is that these Ryzen 3000 series run HOT. Everyone's is. I'm finding video after video, thread after thread. AMD is silent.

I looked at a few vids last night of builds almost exactly like mine Ryzen 5 3600/ MSI B450 GPM/GeForce 1660 S and they run hot.

But they are all still running 10-15 degrees cooler than I am. 70s-80s is, at this point, considered satisfactory and safe from what I've read and watched. 90s? No, that's too hot and something very well could be going on with mine that isn't with theirs. I fear my situation is worse than theirs, I'm getting higher results than they.

But even with heavy coolers and a case like a wind tunnel I'm just not expecting to get much cooler with this processor until AMD addresses it. And it doesn't look like they will. It's a known issue that I wish I had known. I would have made different choices because I have been dealing with heat issues for years now. It was, hands down, the LAST thing I wanted to deal with on this build. Here we are. Life, huh?

All I want to do is get this under 90C while doing what it was designed to do. I'm about to sit down and redo all these tweaks that I don't understand, LOL.

Wish me luck. Thanks in advance because I'm not done with you! Will report back with updated results.

Yeah, thanks.
 
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Good luck and don't worry too much, I chnaged the stokc cooler of mine, but mainly due to the pitch noise it was doing, and I spend the money on very budget one, and it was night and day. Its not like AMD stock cooler is bad, its just what its is. If you can set the BIOS right again I bet you will go back to the 80°C Top.

I had a Core i5 3570 for 6 years more or less, the last year I used, while gaming (BF 5 and/or SOTR) the little CPU was always around 77°C, and it run games temp 100% if the time. Every now and then when I turn it ON that wonderfull chip still working without issues.
 

PurpleChange

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Good luck and don't worry too much, I chnaged the stokc cooler of mine, but mainly due to the pitch noise it was doing, and I spend the money on very budget one, and it was night and day. Its not like AMD stock cooler is bad, its just what its is. If you can set the BIOS right again I bet you will go back to the 80°C Top.

I had a Core i5 3570 for 6 years more or less, the last year I used, while gaming (BF 5 and/or SOTR) the little CPU was always around 77°C, and it run games temp 100% if the time. Every now and then when I turn it ON that wonderfull chip still working without issues.

You're currently using the Deep Cool Gammaxx GTE? Happy with it? That is pretty cheap.

I'm having to ebay some prized collectibles I've been holding onto for decades to move forward - my build added up to $1195 and broke me. I hate to sell them but I'm doing pretty well on them. I'm actually looking at some dual fan air coolers, you know the big, beefy ones that take up the whole case? It may be overkill but I may need overkill.

I've also been looking at some water coolers but from what I've read the affordable ones really don't add cost effective results. Lots more money, not much more cooling. Also reviews of my case indicate there are issues fitting some water coolers. Knowing my luck. I'd get something that wouldn't fit or it would break and hose down my mobo. Too scared.

Yes, I could use a little more advice on a new cooler. So many choices and options. Many seem to be happy with the Cooler Master Hyper 212, I keep hearing recommendations for that in the vids I'm watching. But I feel that I want to crush this problem with the most effective cooler I can afford.
 
The GTE is pretty good, for its price it dropped the temp of my Ryzen an average of 11°C.

There are some other options, a bit more expensive, that will do a much better job than my really budget
cooler, among they theres the Hyper 212 Black Edition (https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/cpu-air-coolers/hyper-212-black-edition/) and the Arctic Freezer 34 esport Duo (https://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/freezer-34-esports-duo.html), both of them are better than mine (cooling wise). If I had to choose I would most likely go with the Arctic one.

(just so you know, none of those were available where I live, thats why I didn't bought them).

AIO Water coolers are a nice option, but you really need to spend money on a good one (more than on a decent Tower Air Coooler). I feel air coolers are easier to choose and to mantain, as long as the heatsink stays clear and on good condition, all you may need to do every many years is change the fan and it will be working again.

Cheers!
 

PurpleChange

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The GTE is pretty good, for its price it dropped the temp of my Ryzen an average of 11°C.

There are some other options, a bit more expensive, that will do a much better job than my really budget
cooler, among they theres the Hyper 212 Black Edition (https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/cpu-air-coolers/hyper-212-black-edition/) and the Arctic Freezer 34 esport Duo (https://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/freezer-34-esports-duo.html), both of them are better than mine (cooling wise). If I had to choose I would most likely go with the Arctic one.

(just so you know, none of those were available where I live, thats why I didn't bought them).

AIO Water coolers are a nice option, but you really need to spend money on a good one (more than on a decent Tower Air Coooler). I feel air coolers are easier to choose and to mantain, as long as the heatsink stays clear and on good condition, all you may need to do every many years is change the fan and it will be working again.

Cheers!

That sounds like solid advice. I've had my eye on both of those coolers.

OK, I've had time to run a few "stress tests", i.e. play a few video games. For each test I let the system run idle for a bit, started HWiNFO, Origin and SWBF2, played a single map of single player, WIN button out and immediately take a HWiNFO screenshot. Between tests I make a few tweaks (indicated in red), quit everything and let it run idle for about 15 mins then start again. (The stress tests will get shorter and shorter because I'm getting better at that map lol).

Test 1: Power Plan - Ryzen Balanced, GeForce Exp Settings - Optimal, Case Panels - On, Fan Settings - Default (whatever I have set in BIOS, I can't remember).

Halfway through I began to experience substantial stuttering

hgWaQ8Z.png



Test 2: Power Plan - Windows Balanced, GeForce Exp Settings - Optimal, Case Panels - On, Fan Settings - Default (whatever I have set in BIOS, I can't remember).

Halfway through I began to experience substantial stuttering

QxOf84d.png


Now I'm trying to better understand what I'm looking at. Right now I'm looking at 4 things: The three temp readings under CPU and the CPU temp reading under MSI B450.

The one coming from the mobo is just a sensor near/on the CPU - kind of an average?
The temp readings under the CPU, I'm focusing on the die average (because that's an average?) but I'm curious what the other two mean , CPU (Tctl/Tdie) and CCT1 (Tdie).

The only difference in those 2 tests are the power plan. The first has Ryzen Balance set, the second has Win Balance set. I watched a video last night talking about the Ryzen power plan and wanted to start there. I can't really see a difference. Some temp values are higher/lower on each. I'm not sure which temp values I should be focusing on or whether I should also be focusing on other values.

A few more thoughts: Those values ARE cooler than I was getting yesterday. It's also about 10-15 degrees cooler in here than it was yesterday (we have a nice cold front breeze blowing). I'm expecting those to go up with the ambient temp.
With my planned cooling extravaganza, that may actually put me in a good range. But I seriously expected more from a new PC. I still think it's too hot and I likely won't let it go until I completely understand what's going on - that's just me.
I'm surprised and aggravated to see stuttering at 1080p. I built this system with the understanding that that would not be happening. I mean it's no RX 5700 but that 1060S with a Ryzen 3600 should crush SWBF2 at 1080p (or that was my impression). But we can cover that another time in another thread. Temps is my focus now.

Thoughts? At this point am I just being paranoid and whiny about standard Ryzen 3000 series processor issues?

More tests later. Taking a break
 
...
The one coming from the mobo is just a sensor near/on the CPU - kind of an average?
The temp readings under the CPU, I'm focusing on the die average (because that's an average?) but I'm curious what the other two mean , CPU (Tctl/Tdie) and CCT1 (Tdie).
....
To help you understand the readings you're seeing in HWInfo..

The readings in the processor section are taken from the processor's own sensors so they are the most accurate EDIT: maybe not most accurate, but most relevant. The Tctl/Tdie and Tdie are 'instantaneous' and pulse up and down as the processor boosts up in speed on one core.

The pulses up and down are perfectly normal and expected at idle. They are really very low energy though, and so not a good indicator of the CPU's thermal state. The one to watch is the Tdie (average) reading, that's a moving average that is a truer indication of the processor's thermal state.

The temp readings in the Motherboard section are from sensors on the motherboard...except CPU. I'm not sure where it would derive the "CPU" reading and besides, the ones in the processor section are better. The one you DO want to watch, though, is the VRM temp which is really good in your case. As it should be with a 6 core CPU.

EDIT: oh yeah...are you taking those HWinfo rips in the middle of a stress test? Try taking a shot with the system at idle... no apps running besides the HWInfo sensors screen....and post that.

And just run the Ryzen Balanced power plan for now.
 
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PurpleChange

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Wow I laid down for a bit and I just woke up. I must have needed it.

So, ok you did all that, and you never said:

Have you set everything back in BIOS, including turning PBO Off?

Yes, the two above tests are with the BIOs tweaks we've discussed redone after the CMOS clear.
"I'm about to sit down and redo all these tweaks that I don't understand, LOL. ", a few posts up. Sorry it was kind of hidden in the text and vague.

To help you understand the readings you're seeing in HWInfo..

The readings in the processor section are taken from the processor's own sensors so they are the most accurate EDIT: maybe not most accurate, but most relevant. The Tctl/Tdie and Tdie are 'instantaneous' and pulse up and down as the processor boosts up in speed on one core.

The pulses up and down are perfectly normal and expected at idle. They are really very low energy though, and so not a good indicator of the CPU's thermal state. The one to watch is the Tdie (average) reading, that's a moving average that is a truer indication of the processor's thermal state.

The temp readings in the Motherboard section are from sensors on the motherboard...except CPU. I'm not sure where it would derive the "CPU" reading and besides, the ones in the processor section are better. The one you DO want to watch, though, is the VRM temp which is really good in your case. As it should be with a 6 core CPU.

EDIT: oh yeah...are you taking those HWinfo rips in the middle of a stress test? Try taking a shot with the system at idle... no apps running besides the HWInfo sensors screen....and post that.

And just run the Ryzen Balanced power plan for now.

That helps a LOT. The application and I are going to be good friends, it seems.

And yes I was trying to capture what was happening during or as close to it as I could get. I wish it had some kind of graph that plotted over time like HWMonitor did (or maybe it does and I can't find it.

Since I don't really understand that yet and I didn't notice a marked difference, yes, I will keep it at Ryzen Balance for now.

Sorry I feel asleep guys but I haven't really been doing that lately.
 

PurpleChange

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It's very cool today, like low 60s. This is idle for 15 mins, nothing running but HWiNFO:
zP723iJ.png


This is after it sat idle with AEOrigin and SWBF2 running in the background while I began my lunch. After two games, it wasn't bad: mid 80s. After I came back with that running in the background for about 10 mins it's just sitting there at 95c, max temp.
7ci9dQj.png


Crazy. That CPU has to be frying. I'm pretty sure that is why I'm getting the stuttering in game, the CPU is temp throttling. When I play with Ryzen Master on it just sits there at 95c. I'm playing with settings well below optimal btw.

Should I be talking to AMD for an RMA at this point?
 
mmmm I don't know, I feel theres something fishy in the second image, look at the:
  • CPU Core Power= 83.571Watts
  • CPU + SOC Power = 101.071Watts
Those values are not compatible with a stock setting AMD Ryzen 5 3600 cpu with only PB enable (PB= Precision Boost, which is like Intels Turbo Boost).

Not to be consufed with PBO thats Precision Boost Overdrive

Take a look at the following pic:
Asg1u1m.jpg


I started prime95 (version: 29.8, Test: small FFT, AVX enable), which is avery well known stress test, and let it run for a little longer than 10 mins (enough to normalize temps). In the pic, for my own Ryzen 5 3600 with only PB enable, the MAX values never went beyond:

  • CPU Core Power= 69.65Watts
  • CPU + SOC Power = 80.821Watts
And thats with all 12 cores loaded at 100% for a little longer than 10".


Seems to me something else is going on:
  1. PBO still enable in BIOS.
  2. PBO and AutoOC are still enable in BIOS.
  3. Some AutoOC software from the motherboard (like Dragon Center) is installed and its OC your CPU.
  4. Ryzen Master, if its installed is OC your CPU for some reason, or you did it and forgot to turn it off (or to reset settings).
  5. Some own MSI Auto overclocking option is enable in BIOS (most motherboard come with some OC profiles that can be enable or disable in the BIOS interface).
  6. A mix of the previous ones.
Cheers
 
....
Should I be talking to AMD for an RMA at this point?

I don't think so...I think you got a CPU that's performing well. It's just getting really HOT when it's under load. Base on the HWINfo info at idle, temperatures, voltages, clocks and C States all look perfectly. Your CPU's hitting 4200 on all cores while boosting even. Really, it looks perfectly normal for a 3600 under a Wraithe Stealth cooler.

It's when you're in that game it gets hot. And you're right, when hits above 95C I'd expect games to be stuttering as the CPU will throttle to get cooled back down. If you don't, you might open the case and put a room fan blowing into it to move air around. I wonder if the GPU might be exhausting just right (wrong?) that the CPU cooler is sucking in all it's hot air, for instance.
 

PurpleChange

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mmmm I don't know, I feel theres something fishy in the second image, look at the:
  • CPU Core Power= 83.571Watts
  • CPU + SOC Power = 101.071Watts
Those values are not compatible with a stock setting AMD Ryzen 5 3600 cpu with only PB enable (PB= Precision Boost, which is like Intels Turbo Boost).

Not to be consufed with PBO thats Precision Boost Overdrive

Take a look at the following pic:
Asg1u1m.jpg


I started prime95 (version: 29.8, Test: small FFT, AVX enable), which is avery well known stress test, and let it run for a little longer than 10 mins (enough to normalize temps). In the pic, for my own Ryzen 5 3600 with only PB enable, the MAX values never went beyond:

  • CPU Core Power= 69.65Watts
  • CPU + SOC Power = 80.821Watts
And thats with all 12 cores loaded at 100% for a little longer than 10".


Seems to me something else is going on:
  1. PBO still enable in BIOS.
  2. PBO and AutoOC are still enable in BIOS.
  3. Some AutoOC software from the motherboard (like Dragon Center) is installed and its OC your CPU.
  4. Ryzen Master, if its installed is OC your CPU for some reason, or you did it and forgot to turn it off (or to reset settings).
  5. Some own MSI Auto overclocking option is enable in BIOS (most motherboard come with some OC profiles that can be enable or disable in the BIOS interface).
  6. A mix of the previous ones.
Cheers


PBO disabled, BIOS and Ryzen Master show that.

I wish I understood all you are asking for. I can't find any "auto overclock" in the BIOS. If I had ever found it, I wouldn't have touched it. All I can find in the BIOS regarding overclocking says disabled or default. Same in Ryzen Master. All I ever used that for was a temp reading. I don't even know how to check this stuff.

I haven't been fiddly with these things. I don't want to OC, I really need my warranty in place. I almost didn't run Ryzen Master at all because of it's intro warning. And even if I had, wouldn't the CMOS clear have returned all that to default? Because I haven't been in BIOS except to do those things listed above (those tweaks discussed int his thread) since the CMOS clear.

I haven't installed any additional software except CPUID HWMonitor and Speed Fan, both uninstalled. Except an AMD Product Verification Tool for a rebate? Of course that did not install correctly and I didn't get my rebate. I uninstalled that crap too.

I hear what you're saying. Something is wrong. But I just can't imagine how it happened. I have kept an extensive journal of this build, nearly a full notebook now, of every single install, uninstall, update, settings change, button clicked, test run and even forum post... all of it. I'm not just experimenting, particularly with things that tell you, "If you do this, your warranty is kaput."

So I don't know, man. I'm not sure how to help you guys help me at this stage. I'm just not an IT guy.

And this overheat issue was there out of the box. Long before I did anything beyond updating BIOS, setting the RAM to 3200, installing/updating Windows, updating drivers, installing AEOriign and playing SWBF2. There's not much I could have messed up there. It was barebones, chrome-shiny new, pure as the driven snow and running hot out of the gate.

I have started a ticket with AMD. I have no idea how that will go. I also paid for the protection plan with newegg (people told me I wouldn't need that lol) for the CPU, mobo, GPU and PSU, however honorable they may be with that. Hasn't gone well so far with newwegg.

I wish I could just send it all back now. I'm so done with it. The restock fee and return shipping would pretty much wipe me out. I'm stuck with her now.

I bought a new PC because I was SICK of heating issues and got a PC with heating issues. I swear this life is a simulation and my settings got stuck on ultra. Down about it today. Sorry.
 

PurpleChange

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I don't think so...I think you got a CPU that's performing well. It's just getting really HOT when it's under load. Base on the HWINfo info at idle, temperatures, voltages, clocks and C States all look perfectly. Your CPU's hitting 4200 on all cores while boosting even. Really, it looks perfectly normal for a 3600 under a Wraithe Stealth cooler.

It's when you're in that game it gets hot. And you're right, when hits above 95C I'd expect games to be stuttering as the CPU will throttle to get cooled back down. If you don't, you might open the case and put a room fan blowing into it to move air around. I wonder if the GPU might be exhausting just right (wrong?) that the CPU cooler is sucking in all it's hot air, for instance.

I've considered that. I have a big evaporative cooler with a big barrel fan. I may do that in a bit. I have a case full of fans and an arctic freezer duo coming (God I hope that cooler fits, I didn't measure) that will take a week to get here. But that would give me an idea of what to expect.

Again, I went ahead and started a ticket with AMD. If nothing else maybe I'll get some great advice... not that I haven't gotten that here, not at all.
 
If any, your current PC is performing (performance wise) even better than mine, Im pretty sure theres something, some setting that could be disable or enable to fix everything.

Keep in mind that you already made it posible you did posted a pic with the CPU reaching only 80° C while gaming.

So I don't think theres something wrong, I just believe theres something that just need a little tweaking.


So don't loose hope!, its probably just a matter of time to find out what it is!!!
 

PurpleChange

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If any, your current PC is performing (performance wise) even better than mine, Im pretty sure theres something, some setting that could be disable or enable to fix everything.

Keep in mind that you already made it posible you did posted a pic with the CPU reaching only 80° C while gaming.

So I don't think theres something wrong, I just believe theres something that just need a little tweaking.


So don't loose hope!, its probably just a matter of time to find out what it is!!!

Man, thanks for the perspective.

I'm going to put some tiles on the carpet and set the PC on the floor, pull off both panels and blow it over with my evaporative cooler (no water of course, just high powered, hurricane strength, dry colorado air and it has a dust filter so... yea).

Will post after I've defeated the Rebellion.
 

PurpleChange

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e9mHiRR.jpg


SWBF2 suboptimal settings:

7kZQCFM.png


SWBF2 Optimal Settings:

fAPBrcx.png


15 mins idle nothing but WiNFO:

CAhXJ20.png


That's telling. It almost hit 39c. Now of course I can't install an evaporative cooler in my case. I can't come close to it.
But if I can get it in the 80s with my upcoming cooling solution that's more in line with the temps I'm seeing other 3600 owners report.

Unless there are further thoughts, I guess I'll see you in a few weeks when all the parts come in and we'll she how she runs closed back up.

I don't know how to thank you guys. I was close to throwing this thing out the window (not really but I did think about it).