Just built my Conroe System - crazy temps!

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Kronicide, on the 11th post in this topic you said that VCore was 1.1 - 1.2, I think that it is important that this has changed, is it recognising the CPU correctly now that the bios has been updated?

I've got to go now for a while, hopefully you'll some answers from the others. I'll check back in tomorrow morning.
 
On PC PROBE II:

Vcore - 1.13

CPU Temp - 52*C

MB Temp - 38*C

CPU fan RPM - 2518


Now that I'm at least below 60*C, should I try to put the CPU under load, like from a game?
Who knows, the temp might only go up a few digits.

But still, I do understand that this isn't acceptable, and I will contact the companies if the problem persists.


Thanks for the help monkey, but I'm not sure what you mean by recognizing the CPU, do you mean recognizing the normal temp? because if you do, I'm pretty sure 52*C may be right, but hopefully its not :twisted:

Well, since I'm definately planning on getting a new HSF soon, can anyone give me some suggestions please?
MAYBE even water cooling, but my budget was mostly spent with this PC.
 
I assume your case has case fans all spinning in the right directions and the case is properly ventilated. Also assume your BIOs is the latest.

I still think your HSF may not be properly installed. Is the HSF tight and firmly in place? Remember the four installation pins need to be pushed down and twisted into place and it should be firm and not move around. There is no way the CPU is idling at 50+C unless you are doing some funky OC-ing - or something is wrong with your CPU.
 
twisted?

I have a LGA775 HSF sitting in front of me, and you don't twist the pins (ie. the arrow should be pointing parallel to the edge, not perpendicular.) when you install the HSF.
 
twisted?

I have a LGA775 HSF sitting in front of me, and you don't twist the pins (ie. the arrow should be pointing parallel to the edge, not perpendicular.) when you install the HSF.

after the pin-ends are set into the holes, you push the top tabs down and turn ("twisted") it to lock it in the holes so that it is firm and tight - that's how I installed it, when I used the stock HSF with my E6600, my idle temps were in the mid-30s. Now I have a Zalman because I overclock it to 3G
 
twisted?

I have a LGA775 HSF sitting in front of me, and you don't twist the pins (ie. the arrow should be pointing parallel to the edge, not perpendicular.) when you install the HSF.

after the pin-ends are set into the holes, you push the top tabs down and turn ("twisted") it to lock it in the holes so that it is firm and tight - that's how I installed it, when I used the stock HSF with my E6600, my idle temps were in the mid-30s. Now I have a Zalman because I overclock it to 3G

I've never twisted the locks in, but if you did, which way???
I've checked the instructitons that came with the CPU and they just say push down, and the picure shows the small line-indents pointing at the heatsink

Now, when you twisted, did you twist to make the indents point towards the heatsink? or the other way?
Because right now, the heatsink feels fully stable, BUT the connectors can bee moved a little with some force.
 
after the pin-ends are set into the holes, you push the top tabs down and turn ("twisted") it to lock it in the holes so that it is firm and tight - that's how I installed it, when I used the stock HSF with my E6600, my idle temps were in the mid-30s. Now I have a Zalman because I overclock it to 3G

That's wrong. The pins LOCK when you push them in, and you hear a loud "pop".
You just push the pins in. To take it out, you turn the pins counterclockwise, and pull up.

Examine the push-pin assembly yourself; turned completely CCW, the pins have nothing holding them from going back up. Turned completely CW, the pins have a ridge preventing movement from a pushed-in position to a pushed-out position.
 
I remembered I was curious about the HSF installation.

I see that this is on a Asus board, but I wonder if the installation for the HSF would be similar or same. This was off another post I did for aother person.

I did end up finding a PDF on an MSI installation here:

CPU-Installation PDF

Now I don't know if the steps are the same, or different for other MBs.

Pushing as hard as you can, to me is kind of insane (even though some people seemed to get it done that way), but what I'd like to point out is the locking of the hooks. If the hooks are locked into place, but if you don't verify, from the back (step 12), I guess that is where the loud snap or pop sound is coming from when pushing on them, one at a time. (from OlegusTT quote)

The instructions from the PDF are:

10. Align the holes on the mainboard with the
heatsink first. Push down the fan/heatsink until
its four clips get wedged into the holes of
the mainboard.

11. Press the four hooks down to fasten the fan.
Then rotate the locking switch (refer to the correct
direction marked on it) to lock the hooks.

12. Turn over the mainboard to confirm that the clipends
are correctly inserted.

So, I think pushing as hard as you can, might break the bottom clip that goes through the hole if your not careful. And if that is broken, that may be one reason why one pin isn't holding it down correctly.
 
11. Press the four hooks down to fasten the fan.
Then rotate the locking switch (refer to the correct
direction marked on it) to lock the hooks.

Eh, that's weird. Mine just locks when you push it in with the arrows not turned .

Well, we all know that the stock Intel cooler sucks (that's why I have mine sitting around). I'd just suggest saving your nerves and shelling out $30 to get a good silent hsf.
 
Well, I just checked how fastened it was, and its pretty damn fastened. I also tested out CS:S on the CPU and the load temp was only a few units more than idle temp

Although, the idle temp is about 52 🙁

But who knows, the temps could be wrong and I could be running at a nice 30 :)
 
11. Press the four hooks down to fasten the fan.
Then rotate the locking switch (refer to the correct
direction marked on it) to lock the hooks.

Eh, that's weird. Mine just locks when you push it in with the arrows not turned .

Well, we all know that the stock Intel cooler sucks (that's why I have mine sitting around). I'd just suggest saving your nerves and shelling out $30 to get a good silent hsf.


Yes, I am planning on buying a better HSF, BUT the point still stands that my CPU is reading at an unreasonable temperature.
 
Have you tried with CPU intensive, like Prime95? This could be a better reference. If the temp only goes up a few degrees under this test, I guess it could be some "power saving" features aren't working properly and the CPU always run at 100%.

Only a guess here.
 
Test for #2 and #3:
Turn off heatsink fan. Open ThrottleWatch or RMclock, and wait for CPU to throttle. Record temperature for which the CPU throttles. I'll assume the CPU throttles at 70C in real life (someone correct me on this).

...and where can I get these utils, ThrottleWatch or RMclock?
Thanks.
 
Test for #2 and #3:
Turn off heatsink fan. Open ThrottleWatch or RMclock, and wait for CPU to throttle. Record temperature for which the CPU throttles. I'll assume the CPU throttles at 70C in real life (someone correct me on this).

...and where can I get these utils, ThrottleWatch or RMclock?
Thanks.

I answered my own question. Both utils can be downloaded from the link below:
http://www.softpedia.com/get/Tweak/CPU-Tweak/
 
ThrottleWatch doesn't work with C2D CPUs.

Yeah it looks that way. I'm running it now. The system is idle. I'm running it alongside Windows Task Manager & it seems to be going cra-Z next to Windows' apps. It's jumping to 21% for no reason when the WinTaskMgr is steady at about 1% utilization while sitting idle. Either that or WinTaskMgr is broken & not reporting what's actually going on behind the scenes.

RMclock seems to be only for AMD's.
 
RMclock works on Intel CPUs just fine...
rmclock.png
 
RMclock works on Intel CPUs just fine...

DOH!!! I just tried running RMClock & it came back with this error...
"CPU does not support AMD PowerNow!(tm) technology".
Is there a fix for this? This is version 1.2.
Thanks.
 
One weird thing though is that when I touch my HS, its actually quite cool, not what I was expecting.

Yeah I know, your gonna say I mounted it wrong, but I seriously don't think there is anything wrong with how I mounted it.

Actually, if you want, I can remount the HSF and take pictures so I can show how I do it.
What I do is clean the top of the CPU and bottom of the HSF, put a drop of Arctic Silver on the center of the CPU,
and mount the HSF, which I make sure is fully pushed down... which I hate doing because you have to push so hard on the mobo.

red alert red alert.........
did you said you put a drop of arctic silver on the center of cpu, and then mount heatsink?? what about step 2, spread the arctic silver around the whole surface.
the entire surface of the chip = equal all the shiny shiny part. the silicon part??? use your credit card and spread a thin uniform surface.

if you have only one drop, your heatsink will spread only a small amount of total silicon surface. contact between the heatsink and cpu will be very bad.
 
Hi, I just finished building my conroe system and when I go into SETUP, the temps on the CPU were about 80c.

I then replaced my arctic silver on the core too a much smaller dose, and yes the CPU cooled down... to a steady 70-75.

Now I've tried even less, and now the temp is all the way up to 90c.

This is all just the readings in the BIOS hardware monitor, and I haven't installed windows on my new HDD yet.

My mobo is the ASUS P5B.

Any help is appreciated!

You haven't said which Conroe CPU you use, but if it is Conroe and you are not overclocking the hell out of it, your temperatures are definately too high.

My bet is that you have not installed the HSF correctly.

1. All four notches have to click and sometimes it needs a lot of pressure to fix them. You press two of them diagonally, then the other two. Be careful though because too much pressure can damage the board or the socket.

2. Since you were removing HSF few times, have you reset the notches by turning them 90° clockwise before installing HSF again?

3. You removed stock thermal pad, that was stupid. If you use stock HSF you use stock thermal pad. It is thick and for a reason. The heat spreader on the CPU is not flat enough in some cases, so thick thermal pad helps the heat transfer.

4. Thermal paste (AS5) should be applied on the center just a drop size of a rice bean and there is no need nor it is recommended to spread it. It gets spread properly just by pressure from the HSF.

5. Have you checked that you haven't reversed some of the case fans blowing direction by accident when you mounted it?

The new Conroe chips do run hot. They should be running 50-60C idle and up to 80C Load.

Stop bullshitting about something you don't have first hand experience with. I have 41°C idle at the moment here in a closed case -- your numbers are way off.

Just for comparison, at 21°C room temperature, this E6300 idles at 35°C and doesn't go over 48°C after 20 minutes of OCCT running on both cores. All that with Zalman 9500 running at minimum RPM.

By the way, even with stock HSF I had before I was able to get to 2.8GHz and run for an hour without hitting such temperatures you people mention here. So definately something is wrong.

Moreover, CoreTemp is reading thermal sensors from the core so there is no chance to have wrong reading because that read directly from CPU MSR register and it cannot be influenced by BIOS or by mainboard sensor.