Question Keep Killing GPUs What Is Wrong?

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Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Sounds good. Knowing what country you are in would be helpful, because what is a good or available in one region, won't be the same as in another. And since many of us help people worldwide all the time, we might, maybe, in some cases, be aware of options that you might not even be aware of for your own region. Or not. :)
 
Two things you might want to try, just to be sure:

1 - boot in safe mode, and set a lower resolution, etc., and see if it works, or if you get artifacting

2 - try on a different monitor (or a TV, or whatever you might have available) and see if it works, or if you get artifacting

3 - try with a different cable to connect to the screen


It may be me just being paranoid, but I want to rule out the monitor or monitor cable.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Yeah, that doesn't mean much. I've seen literally HUNDREDS of people, maybe more, use dollars throughout four or five pages of a thread and then turns out they are in Australia, or India, or South Africa. So, it's always best to ask and verify.
 
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Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Two things you might want to try, just to be sure:

1 - boot in safe mode, and set a lower resolution, etc., and see if it works, or if you get artifacting

2 - try on a different monitor (or a TV, or whatever you might have available) and see if it works, or if you get artifacting

3 - try with a different cable to connect to the screen


It may be me just being paranoid, but I want to rule out the monitor or monitor cable.
No, these are good things to try. How many times have we spent five pages trying to solve a core hardware issue just to find that it's a bad cable. Literally, hundreds.
 

roryrocker13

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When I get home il get a new cable and try it out, as for resolution I can confirm both with the graphics card and the CPU it worked fine before driver install, or seemingly fine, only did it crash once they were installed or in the case of the GPU installing. I can get the CPU only system to boot to windows but after about 10 minutes or running the intel CPU trouble shooting test it artifacted, although it worked as long as I wanted without drivers (the graphics drivers that is) also I loosened my CPU cooler as I thought maybe it could be too tight ive heard it can mess with CPUs but that wasnt the case, I really need to remember to tighten it up when I get home probably got thermal paste leaking everywhere lol. it crashes on intel CPU test when drivers are installed, bot didnt crash when they wernt (what i was doing in that instance), I think on the maths section although I cant remember as it was last night il have to re check...
 
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roryrocker13

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As for RIG, ive been pricing up here is a list of parts I would need, excluding GPU because I am considering picking up a second hand 980ti watercooled for around £195 although im not sure if to, I mean would it be more worth me getting a similar priced new card, wouldnt that leave me with a significant bottle neck? My budget really is around £600, obviously I already have hard drives and SSDs I would still like to change case however...

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/ZZc4CL
 
No, these are good things to try. How many times have we spent five pages trying to solve a core hardware issue just to find that it's a bad cable. Literally, hundreds.
Oh, yeah, like that guy who had network throughput problems, and without testing by swapping it, was certain that the ethernet cable was just fine. Then, it turns out that it was a bad ethernet cable.

And I am not naming names or anything, but that guy who was so certain was . . . me. :oops: :ROFLMAO:
 

roryrocker13

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So basically what would it mean if it worked and it was at a lower resolution / without the drivers? Other than confirming that part to be broken?? As this is the case, it works on both the GPU and CPU without the drivers, although the GPU is now fully dead after installing them and the CPU not far behind...
 
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Now I'm starting to wonder somehow, when you install the drivers, if the drivers are setting the screen resolution and/or refresh rate to something higher than the monitor can display.

That was the impression I started to get from your distorted image display on the screen... though I'm a stepping little out of my element here in terms of expertise.
 

roryrocker13

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Using his evga 600W PSU, its the one thats not even bronze rated, because of this thread hes just purchased a new PSU a corsair TX I think alot higher wattage as hes running much better, newer more expensive and more powerful hardware than me. NGL There is a possibility as I used to overclock my monitor however it is set at 60hz in this and may I add, the CPU doesnt instantly mess up when installing the drivers, only when I do something on the CPU, run a test, open a youtube video ect, it is at 60hz, I was just about to order the following:

Ry 5 2600x
980ti
16gb vengance 3000mhz
128gb m.2
msi b450 mobo
Case
Be quiet Power 11 700w

Is it worth me buying now, as some of these parts are only ones in stock and are significantly cheaper than elsewhere so far comes to £620, would be £650-70+ without sales...
 

roryrocker13

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Yh got my laptop plugged into the monitor fine atm, its not running full 1080p which is annoying cus old laptop but im sure it is the cpu, time to buy that setup i thinks...
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
I think so. I don't like the choice of PSU though.

 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
You'll need to spend a little more than that Pure power 11 700w unit is going for if you want a 700+ watt unit of any quality. This is what reviews had to say about that unit in the cons.

  • Very high price for what it has to offer.
  • Poor choice of bulk and filtering caps for a product of this price tag.
  • High inrush currents and very high OCP triggering points at 5V and 3.3V.
  • Mediocre transient response on the minor rails.
  • The power distribution could be better.
  • Found a small problem during the DC power sequencing tests.
  • Single EPS connector (however it is sold as a mainstream unit so this is kind of expected).
  • The protection inside the box is not optimal.
All of which adds up to an expensive PSU shaped object for the most part.


If you're getting a 980 ti, even if you plan to overclock, you don't need anything more than a very good 650w unit, max. If you can AFFORD a very good 750w unit, that's fine and great, and I recommend it simply for the extra overhead that means the unit will likely never run at sustained loads that are anywhere near it's peak capacity, but it's not essential. Even at 650w you are unlikely to come near that with that configuration.

I'd either get this:

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: SeaSonic PRIME Ultra Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£105.46 @ Scan.co.uk)
Total: £105.46
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-16 06:56 BST+0100



Or this:

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£120.46 @ Scan.co.uk)
Total: £120.46
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-16 06:58 BST+0100


OR the 750w RMx Corsair unit, which is pretty close in price. The regular RM unit is not as good as the RMx and there are enough differences to make one a much better choice than the other ALTHOUGH even the regular RM unit is much better than that Be Quiet unit so if you need to really skimp, then the RM unit at 750w would be ok too.
 

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