Question Motherboard LED is on but pc not turning on?

[Sasha124]

Hello everyone,
The past couple of days, my pc has started taking longer to switch on once I press the power button (10-15 minutes). Today, I tried turning it on as usual but nothing happened. My motherboard's LED is on and flashing (I have no DEBUG led, just standard orange one) but neither my cooler or my power supply fans spin. I took everything out of the case to do ram swaps, reconnect 24 pin and cpu's 4 pin and even took out the CMOS battery but still nothing. Please note that I have changed my motherboard to the A320M-K so it is unlikely that it is my motherboard.Help me please.
Specs below:


Ryzen 3 2200g with stock cooler
Asus prime A320M-K
Silverstone ES 450W (80+ bronze)
TFORCE TUF 8gb 3000 mhz
WD Blue 1TB
Patriot Burst 120 gb SSD (For OS)

 

[Aeacus]

Silverstone ES 450W (80+ bronze)

What is your PSU part number? Should be SST-xxxx-x. (Look it from the PSU label.)

And was it bought brand new or used/refurbished? Also, how long ago?

 

[Sasha124]

What is your PSU part number? Should be SST-xxxx-x. (Look it from the PSU label.)

And was it bought brand new or used/refurbished? Also, how long ago?

It says SST-ET450-B
I bought it 3 or 4 years ago brand new.

 

[Aeacus]

Based on your hardware, i can see that you didn't have much money to buy good hardware, including buying low quality PSU. That was a mistake, since PSU powers everything and thus, is the most important component inside the PC.

For 2nd opinion about your PSU's quality, look it up from the PSU tier list. It's in Tier D (look for Silverstone Strider Essential ET-B),
link: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...er-list-rev-14-8-final-update-jul-21.3624094/

While what i'd suggest, would be anything from Tier A.

At this point, you can consider everything that was connected to that poor of a PSU, to be dead. <- This is the price of buying cheap PSU.

It is possible that some hardware survived, but for that, you need 2nd, compatible PC, where to test out your components individually. Or haul your PC to PC repair shop and pay them for diagnostics and fix.

 

[Sasha124]

Based on your hardware, i can see that you didn't have much money to buy good hardware, including buying low quality PSU. That was a mistake, since PSU powers everything and thus, is the most important component inside the PC.

For 2nd opinion about your PSU's quality, look it up from the PSU tier list. It's in Tier D (look for Silverstone Strider Essential ET-B),
link: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...er-list-rev-14-8-final-update-jul-21.3624094/

While what i'd suggest, would be anything from Tier A.

At this point, you can consider everything that was connected to that poor of a PSU, to be dead. <- This is the price of buying cheap PSU.

It is possible that some hardware survived, but for that, you need 2nd, compatible PC, where to test out your components individually. Or haul your PC to PC repair shop and pay them for diagnostics and fix.

I am quite certain everything else is working. Tomorrow, a friend of mine is going to lend me a working psu so I can check if it really is the power supply. I am thinking of buying a Cooler Master MWE 650W 80+ White or a 700W EVGA B1 80+ Bronze

 

[Aeacus]

Cooler Master MWE 650W 80+ White

Another Tier D unit, no better than your Silverstone unit. Waste of money.

700W EVGA B1 80+ Bronze

Slightly better than CM and Silverstone units, at Tier C, low-priority. Still, not good enough to spend money on it.

Since your PC doesn't have dedicated GPU, you can look towards Corsair CX or CXm units. <- This would be bare minimum, in terms of PSU quality, i'd suggest for your PC. While Seasonic Focus or Corsair RM/RMx/RMi would be far better choice.

 

[letmepicyou]

There is 1 thing all computer techs agree on.

Your power supply is the one place you should spend money until it hurts, then spend a little more. Pain goes away. A bad power supply is eternal.

 

[Aeacus]

There is 1 thing all computer techs agree on.

Your power supply is the one place you should spend money until it hurts, then spend a little more. Pain goes away. A bad power supply is eternal.

Very so much true. 👍

Since i care a lot about all my PCs, i won't put a mediocre quality unit into my PC that fails to meet ATX PSU standards set in place for all OEMs to follow, so that the PSUs are safe to use and doesn't damage other components. In fact, i've gone above and beyond regarding PSUs in my PCs;
Some may call me nuts , that i payed €206.80 for a PSU that sits in my Skylake build (Seasonic SSR-650TD) and my latest PSU purchase for Haswell build costed €205.50 (Seasonic SSR-650TR), while i would've been safe with a PSU that costs €80.50 (Seasonic GX-550). While that can be true and i could've saved a lot of money, i feel safe and comfortable that my two main PCs are powered by the best offered by Seasonic. Though, for my 3rd PC (old AMD build), i went a bit lighter and bought Seasonic SSR-550PX, which costed me €101.50.

I won't suggest expensive PSUs in builds when the budget is way restricted. But i still suggest getting a PSU that at least meets all the ATX PSU standards, even if it's fully wired, like Seasonic SS-520GB (best group-regulated PSU ever made) or Seasonic GC-550.

 

[Sasha124]

Very so much true. 👍

Since i care a lot about all my PCs, i won't put a mediocre quality unit into my PC that fails to meet ATX PSU standards set in place for all OEMs to follow, so that the PSUs are safe to use and doesn't damage other components. In fact, i've gone above and beyond regarding PSUs in my PCs;
Some may call me nuts , that i payed €206.80 for a PSU that sits in my Skylake build (Seasonic SSR-650TD) and my latest PSU purchase for Haswell build costed €205.50 (Seasonic SSR-650TR), while i would've been safe with a PSU that costs €80.50 (Seasonic GX-550). While that can be true and i could've saved a lot of money, i feel safe and comfortable that my two main PCs are powered by the best offered by Seasonic. Though, for my 3rd PC (old AMD build), i went a bit lighter and bought Seasonic SSR-550PX, which costed me €101.50.

I won't suggest expensive PSUs in builds when the budget is way restricted. But i still suggest getting a PSU that at least meets all the ATX PSU standards, even if it's fully wired, like Seasonic SS-520GB (best group-regulated PSU ever made) or Seasonic GC-550.

Thank you all for the replies. While I would go for a reputable brand of PSUs, the only available PSU brands on my island are EVGA, Thermaltake, Silverstone and Cooler Master units. ROG psus are a thing too but they are a little too expensive for me.

 

[Aeacus]

the only available PSU brands on my island are EVGA

From EVGA, look towards SuperNova GT / GS / PS / P2 / T2 / G3 / G6.

Thermaltake

From Tt, good ones are: Toughpower GF1 (ARGB) / PF1 ARGB / iRGB Plus / DPS G / DPS G RGB / Grand (non-RGB) Gold.

Silverstone

Not much good here, only Strider Gold and Strider Platinum.

ROG psus are a thing too but they are a little too expensive for me.

Like said above many times, good PSUs are necessity and due to that, good quality units do cost more as well.

If you want good and cheap PSU, you have to buy two PSUs, the good one and the cheap one. You already bought cheap PSU, that acted up on you. Are you going to buy cheap PSU again? Or are you going to buy good PSU this time?