Nanao Schematics and advice please

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Does anyone have a schematic of a Nanao MS8-26U?
I have a couple nanao chassis that are doing the exact same thing. Monitor
fires up ok, but the 26" flickers and goes black. Or plays for a day then
goes black. I thought it was cold solder joint and have been trying to
resolder when I can. After a cap kit , I replaced Q401, Q402 and R433. I
still have the same problem. I have tried to adjust the vertical size and
brightness thinking maybe it was a dirty pot but does not have an effect.
One other question, the vertical size of the picture is at max but is still
not filling the screen, I only get 12" not the 14" actual screen size.. Why?
This is obviously not the original chassis but if this is a MS8-26U I would
assume it should fit.


I have a schematic for this one and have done a cap kit but....
My other troublemaker is a Sega 200-5044. I think of it as a nanao MC2000S
20". Fires up ok, dims during play, and goes black...slowly. Turn off, turn
up brightness, plays ok.. for awhile, then get dark. Actually can get bright
then dark and darker gone.
What gives? These are both doing the same thing....I am developing a love
hate relationship with these chassis.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Hey Matt,
I forgot to mention that I had read your post on that from awhile back . I
removed and resoldered all 3 boards on the 26" as per your previous post. It
worked for the rest of the night but in the morning it cut out minutes after
startup. The next day I replaced the vertical output Xsistors Q401, Q402
and R433. I will check the resistors in the vertical output section. This
thing really has a mind of its own, sometimes if I press on the video
connector it comes back, other times if I increase the vertical size it
would come back. But these do not seem to be consistant and it will only
stay on for a few moments. I really thought it was a cold solder joint until
I got the vertical size to affect it without pressure on the board. Maybe
the vertical size pot adjustment was just a fluke and it is a cold solder
joint.....

On the 20" I did a cap kit, but it did not help. I was going to try the
vertical output Xsistors today but do not have much faith.


"matt" <gamefixer@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:zPedne5fA9OVm6nfRVn-hA@starstream.net...
> OK, on the 26". Unsolder and REMOVE those two daughter cards then put them
> back. Dont ask me why this works but it does. Reflowing those solder
points
> never works but the above method has worked for me 23 out of 23 times. As
> far as the size thing goes, check the resistors in the area around the
> vertical output Xsistors.
>
> On the 20". A capkit will solve that problem.
>
> --
> Matt
> M and M Electronics
> 6661 Stanford Ranch Road
> Suite F, PMB 105
> Rocklin, Ca 95677
> 916-275-5871
> "Pepelepew" <pepelepew9@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> news:FdPYd.130338$Th1.129828@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > Does anyone have a schematic of a Nanao MS8-26U?
> > I have a couple nanao chassis that are doing the exact same thing.
Monitor
> > fires up ok, but the 26" flickers and goes black. Or plays for a day
then
> > goes black. I thought it was cold solder joint and have been trying to
> > resolder when I can. After a cap kit , I replaced Q401, Q402 and R433. I
> > still have the same problem. I have tried to adjust the vertical size
and
> > brightness thinking maybe it was a dirty pot but does not have an
effect.
> > One other question, the vertical size of the picture is at max but is
> > still
> > not filling the screen, I only get 12" not the 14" actual screen size..
> > Why?
> > This is obviously not the original chassis but if this is a MS8-26U I
> > would
> > assume it should fit.
> >
> >
> > I have a schematic for this one and have done a cap kit but....
> > My other troublemaker is a Sega 200-5044. I think of it as a nanao
MC2000S
> > 20". Fires up ok, dims during play, and goes black...slowly. Turn off,
> > turn
> > up brightness, plays ok.. for awhile, then get dark. Actually can get
> > bright
> > then dark and darker gone.
> > What gives? These are both doing the same thing....I am developing a
love
> > hate relationship with these chassis.
> >
> >
> >
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Ok....I was going to stop 3 hours ago but I screwed up my 20". I replaced
the output transistors with what I was told was compatible parts. Horizontal
line was all I got...great...did it again. Was sometimes working, now not
working at all. Ok take it back out check things, replace, errrr same
thing... Put original outputs back in and.....see cold solder joints on
neckboard plug ...hmmm.....fix, replace.....perfect picture. It has been
playing for an hour now and looks better then ever, I turned down the hv and
brightness and the colors came out and the picture seems very stable.
Hopefully this will last, I am not sure how many levels are in choplifter
but I'm going to try to find out.



"Pepelepew" <pepelepew9@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:fEZYd.380518$w62.100003@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> Hey Matt,
> I forgot to mention that I had read your post on that from awhile back .
I
> removed and resoldered all 3 boards on the 26" as per your previous post.
It
> worked for the rest of the night but in the morning it cut out minutes
after
> startup. The next day I replaced the vertical output Xsistors Q401, Q402
> and R433. I will check the resistors in the vertical output section. This
> thing really has a mind of its own, sometimes if I press on the video
> connector it comes back, other times if I increase the vertical size it
> would come back. But these do not seem to be consistant and it will only
> stay on for a few moments. I really thought it was a cold solder joint
until
> I got the vertical size to affect it without pressure on the board. Maybe
> the vertical size pot adjustment was just a fluke and it is a cold solder
> joint.....
>
> On the 20" I did a cap kit, but it did not help. I was going to try the
> vertical output Xsistors today but do not have much faith.
>
>
> "matt" <gamefixer@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:zPedne5fA9OVm6nfRVn-hA@starstream.net...
> > OK, on the 26". Unsolder and REMOVE those two daughter cards then put
them
> > back. Dont ask me why this works but it does. Reflowing those solder
> points
> > never works but the above method has worked for me 23 out of 23 times.
As
> > far as the size thing goes, check the resistors in the area around the
> > vertical output Xsistors.
> >
> > On the 20". A capkit will solve that problem.
> >
> > --
> > Matt
> > M and M Electronics
> > 6661 Stanford Ranch Road
> > Suite F, PMB 105
> > Rocklin, Ca 95677
> > 916-275-5871
> > "Pepelepew" <pepelepew9@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> > news:FdPYd.130338$Th1.129828@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > > Does anyone have a schematic of a Nanao MS8-26U?
> > > I have a couple nanao chassis that are doing the exact same thing.
> Monitor
> > > fires up ok, but the 26" flickers and goes black. Or plays for a day
> then
> > > goes black. I thought it was cold solder joint and have been trying to
> > > resolder when I can. After a cap kit , I replaced Q401, Q402 and R433.
I
> > > still have the same problem. I have tried to adjust the vertical size
> and
> > > brightness thinking maybe it was a dirty pot but does not have an
> effect.
> > > One other question, the vertical size of the picture is at max but is
> > > still
> > > not filling the screen, I only get 12" not the 14" actual screen
size..
> > > Why?
> > > This is obviously not the original chassis but if this is a MS8-26U I
> > > would
> > > assume it should fit.
> > >
> > >
> > > I have a schematic for this one and have done a cap kit but....
> > > My other troublemaker is a Sega 200-5044. I think of it as a nanao
> MC2000S
> > > 20". Fires up ok, dims during play, and goes black...slowly. Turn off,
> > > turn
> > > up brightness, plays ok.. for awhile, then get dark. Actually can get
> > > bright
> > > then dark and darker gone.
> > > What gives? These are both doing the same thing....I am developing a
> love
> > > hate relationship with these chassis.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>